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Coral Vue Hydros

Corey's 3 gallon JBJ


biggiec79

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biggiec79

Started my JBJ Pico last month after reading this forum for hours to get ideas. Thought it time to post some of my exploits.

Current Equipment:

JBJ Picotope

Coralife Aqualight-Double Linear Strip Power Compact-12" 18w X 2

Aquaclear 70 fuge mod, chaeto and heater in one chamber, chemipure elite and filter floss in other

50 watt hydor heater

Rapids mini canister filter with filter pad, 1/2 bag chemipure elite and purigen. (used this instead of a powerfilter for added flow, "polishes" water as a bonus)

ATO equipment from aquahub.com, azoo battery air pump (will do writeup on ATO build later)

CUC:

1 scarlett hermit

2 astrea snails

1 peppermint shrimp

1 nasarius snail

These guys keep the tank in great shape

Pico before Mods

startup.jpg

Tank shot with a little life in it.

angletank.jpg

fulltank.jpg

Duncan Polyp

duncanpolyp.jpg

Latest pic with all current mods:

DSC00137.jpg

Having a great time with the build, everything is doing great so far. I know i have tubes and wires everywhere, once i get my mods how i want them will work on cleaning up around the tank No real plan for corals, i guess whatever frags catch my eye at the LFS that arent to expensive. Do hope to put in either a talbot damsel or yellow tailed damsel soon. Will take some more detailed photos of the ATO setup later, stay tuned

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looks like a nice start... stop slacking and hide those wires! ha kidding good luck with the tank

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biggiec79

Here's a brief rundown on my DIY Auto topoff build.

Equipment:

Azoo battery powered air pump $4.99

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod...cfm?pcatid=3693

2 D cell batteries $3

 

Ifloat float switch $6.99

9 inch mold a holder $3.95

Snail guard $1.79

http://www.aquahub.com/store/autotopoffcomp.html

 

Rigid container free

airline tubing and connectors $3

 

First i opened the back of the battery powered air pump, cut the white wire that connects pump motor to battery terminal and spliced it to each end of the float switch. Be sure to drill a small hole in pump casing for wire to come out.

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Then drilled holes in snail guard container for air and water and installed the float in the snailguard lidl To make the bracket to hold the float switch i cut the mold a holder to about 4 inches and simply bent it to a 45 degree angle. I drilled a hole on one side to attach the float, and on the other side i made a notch so i could adjust how high or low i want the switch simply by loosening the screw i used to attach it to my powerfilter.

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I recommend using a rigid container to hold your topoff water. i originally used a plastic gallon milk jug, but when the pump stopped, water continued to be pushed out as the sides of the container contracted.

DSC00143.jpg

 

FYI, this is an air push method and your topoff water container needs to be airtight, this is very important. The air pump pushes air into the holding container, and forces water out the other airline that leads to your aquarium. The pump works great, runs only about 5-10 seconds every hour and half or so.

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Added a Talbot Damsel last week. He is doing great, it is very active, eats alot and is fun to watch. Only thing is he likes to move my substrate around, hes already dug quite a bit out from under my LR to build a nice cave. Also added a mushroom frag and a small ric that i was unable to glue down and looks like it is pushing itself into a crevice where two pieces of LR meet. Do you guys think it will grow ok there or should i pull it and try to glue it to the top of my middle rock?

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THEEGRIMREEFER

good job on the ato write up! very simple and i now finally get how it works! :happydance: ive never understood other writeups lol i will be making one based on yours. thanks! oh yeah thats one nice looking damsel. what if i wanted to put one in my 29? would that be a good or bad idea knowing it is a "damsel"

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