Urchin Munchies?

[BibleSue]

Since there is no one to verify my daughter so she can do anything on this site, I will ask for her. She bought a Banded Longspine Urchin Sunday.

 

 

Lower right in her 24g Nano (my old prop tank)

 

She doesn't have much coralline in there yet & it has eaten a lot already. Any idea what she should feed it? Research has come up with nothing except that they are carnivores when they get older.

[scottyreef]

i know those guys eat unattached mushrooms i lost a couple but i feed mine a half silversides a week or so

[BibleSue]

Thanks! That gives her a place to start. Thankfully she has no loose mushrooms ATM.

[BustytheSnowMaam]

I started searching a bit because I have a hitchhiking (pencil) urchin. LiveAquaria says your type eat "invertebrates", then after that link followed about 30 more that simply copied LiveAquaria's info . The two tidbits of info I did get were that "some" species do eat corallimorphs, and wetwebmedia says many urchins like a food called "Tetra Tips". Also the spines are quite venomous. I have many, many extra loose mushrooms if you ever need some.

[BibleSue]

I started searching a bit because I have a hitchhiking (pencil) urchin. LiveAquaria says your type eat "invertebrates", then after that link followed about 30 more that simply copied LiveAquaria's info . The two tidbits of info I did get were that "some" species do eat corallimorphs, and wetwebmedia says many urchins like a food called "Tetra Tips". Also the spines are quite venomous. I have many, many extra loose mushrooms if you ever need some.

 

Thanks! I have seen your mushrooms. I'll let her know. We are waiting for her to get verified so she can post. You found more with your research that both of us put together.

 

We know about the venomous spines. The lady at the LFS got 2 of them in her finger getting it out of their tank which was very very dirty! She had quite a hole in one spot.

[Urchinhead]

Sue-

 

Take a look at my Urchin FAQ for more info. Synopsis:

 

Feed it Nori if its a juvenile (it doesn't look like it is) and krill if its not. This is one, like the pencil urchin, that should be returned if you plan to have any other inverts or fish in the tank. Both are opportunistic omnivores and lean towards carnivore.

 

Also that urchin is way to big for that size tank. In that size tank its better to go with a Tuxedo and even then she will have to supplementally feed it. For a Tux go with Nori.

 

The spines are venomous but not fatally so unless she is alergic to bee's and the like. White vinegar and hot water for treatment of sticks.

[BibleSue]

Sue-

 

Take a look at my Urchin FAQ for more info. Synopsis:

 

Feed it Nori if its a juvenile (it doesn't look like it is) and krill if its not. This is one, like the pencil urchin, that should be returned if you plan to have any other inverts or fish in the tank. Both are opportunistic omnivores and lean towards carnivore.

 

Also that urchin is way to big for that size tank. In that size tank its better to go with a Tuxedo and even then she will have to supplementally feed it. For a Tux go with Nori.

 

The spines are venomous but not fatally so unless she is alergic to bee's and the like. White vinegar and hot water for treatment of sticks.

 

Thanks! Can you give me a link? I didn't see it under your topics.

[Urchinhead]

Funny... I can't find it either. So here it is:

 

 

Sea Urchins

 

Scientific Information:

 

Phylum: Echinodermata

Class: Echinoidea

Order: Multiple. See below

 

Common Names:

Pin Cushion, Tuxedo, Long Spine(v), Short Spine, Pencil(sn), Flower(vv), Fire(vv), Sand Dollar(sn)

 

v = venomous

vv = very venomous

sn = special needs

 

Origin:

Pin Cushion - Caribbean

Tuxedo - Indo-Pacific

Long Spine - Indo-Pacific

Short Spine - Indo-Pacific

Pencil - Indo-Pacific

 

Introduction:

This article is divided into four sections. General Information, Reef Safe Urchins, Special Needs Urchins, and Urchins to avoid. General Information contains general notes on husbandry while the other sections deal with specific species broken out by type of urchin and contains specific details on tank size, diet requirements, special needs, and the like.

 

General Information:

There are about eight different kinds of urchin, including the sand dollar, sold in the trade. Their habitats range from the Atlantic to the Indo-Pacific and Caribbean. Most urchins are reef safe with the notable exception of the Pencil Urchin which is carnivorous and will eat corals as well as fish and the very pretty but very venomous flower and fire urchins.

 

Urchins tend to be some of the more unusual and potentially entertaining additions to a cleanup crew and actually cut down substantially on the required number and diversity of said crew. In general one urchin can handle the job of several glass cleaning snails and several rock cleaning snails and hermits. They are no harder than other invertebrates, like crabs and hermits, to keep and do a good job relative to their size of keeping control of algae. While urchins tend to be nocturnal, many will come out during daylight hours.

 

The best Urchin for Nano tanks are the Tuxedo's as they remain relatively small while still providing entertainment and high cleaning to relative size value. Watching them work is interesting especially when they are on the glass and their mouth can be seen in operation. They will eat all kinds of algae including diatoms, green hair, etc and there is anecdotal evidence of them eating cyno as well.

 

There are three downsides to having an urchin in the tank. If the urchin selected is a Pinchushion or Tuxedo and there are small loose bits of rock, small bits of coral or frags, or hermits and snails in the tank the Urchin may take them for a free ride around the tank on its back. The reason for this is that this subspecies uses shells and loose strata as tactile and visual camouflage from their natural predators. Urchins are also very strong for their size and can inadvertently topple corals and/or rocks as they move about the tank. The caution used when putting a turbo snail into a tank would be the same for an urchin. Make sure the rocks and corals are stable and not easy to move. Finally, urchins eat all kinds of algae including coraline.

 

Predators:

Urchins are not recommended in a tank that contains any:

 

starfish

triggers

some types of larger wrasse

puffers

anglers

squirrels

snappers

sharks

rays

porkfish

parrot fish

harlequins

 

as urchins are a natural prey of these animals.

 

Diet:

Most Urchins are either herbivores or omnivores with the notable exception of the Pencil Urchin which is carnivorous. Urchins will eat all forms of micro-algae from all surfaces including rock work, glass, and substrate.

 

If algae is not prolific in the tank it is best to supplementally feed urchins with some form of sea weed such as Nori. A 2"x2" sheet about once every week or so should be sufficient.

 

Feeding can be handled in one of two ways. First, hang it on the glass or rock where they will find it. Second, hand feed them. If hand feeding the urchin will do something called an "urchin kiss" where their spines will gently grasp the tip of your finger as their sensory tentacles explore if you are worth eating. Press the sea weed gently on the spine or place it in the urchin's path and allow it to roll up on it.

 

Acclimation Process:

Gradual. If the delta between the salinity level they are used to and your tank is too high they can get salinity shock. An example acclimation method would be to place the urchin in a bucket or container with the water it came with, a heater, and a very small power head. Over a 30 to 40 minute period remove 4 oz of old water and replace it with 4 oz of water from your tank repeating every 7-10 minutes for about 30-40 minutes. (Note this assumes you have more than 12 oz of original water and that the original water is not fouled or contaminated. Drip method would be best if you do not have at least 12 oz of original water)

 

Things to watch out for:

If an urchin's spines fall off they are most likely dying and there isn't much that can be done to save them. While it is possible to attempt rehabilitation via a hospital tank coupled with offering allot of food like nori usually by the time the spines are falling off it is too late and humane euthanization such as via freezing is more appropriate. It is important to remove the urchin from the tank as soon as spine loss is observed as delay could cause the urchin to expire in a location difficult to access or see which would cause a spike in the tank.

 

As with all invertebrates copper based medications are fatal to urchins.

 

Urchins are also sensitive to rapid shifts in salinity and can get salinity shock which can be fatal.

 

Urchins do not tolerate high nitrates. If there are high nitrates in the tank an urchin will shed its spines.

 

Wound treatment from an urchin stick:

Spine sticks from urchins can be quite painful and in the case of flowerpot or fire urchins or with people who have allergies fatal. Prompt treatment is important to reduce pain and swelling as well as the risk of infection.

 

If stuck by a flame or flowerpot urchin, if you have a allergy, or feel unwell or concerned seek appropriate treatment immediately from a medical professional.

 

If stuck by an urchin spine remove the spines as quickly as possible. You will not get all of the spine and this will hurt but it is important to remove them quickly to minimize pain. Do not dig out the spine as this can do more damage and cause higher risk than leaving it in and allowing it to work its way out. Next soak the affected area with vinegar followed by a hot water soak at the highest temperature you can stand followed again by a vinegar soak. This should minimize the pain and swelling/stiffness associated with an urchin stick.

 

Reef Safe Urchins:

 

Common Name: Long Spine(v)

Scientific Name: Diadema

Max size: 8+ Inches

Tank size: 50 gallon+

Food: All kinds of algae

Reef safe: Yes if well fed

Notes:

Spines are venomous and getting stuck hurts allot so handle with care

The spines can puncture some corals

Very good for controlling filamentous algae including hair algae

 

Common Name: Short Spine/Rock

Scientific Name: Echinometra

Max size: 3 Inches

Tank size: 30 gallon+

Food: All kinds of algae

Reef safe: Yes if well fed

Notes:

Very good at controlling hair algae

 

Common Name: Tuxedo (blue or black)

Scientific Name: Mespillia Globulus

Max size: 2 Inches

Tank size: 15 gallon+ (with feeding)

Food: All kinds of algae

Reef safe: Yes if well fed

Notes:

Will pick up debris/shells/rocks/etc as camouflage. If it isn't then it may be sick or dying

May need supplemental feeding with nori if in 30+ gallon tank and will need supplemental feeding if in smaller tank

 

Common Name: Pin Chushion

Scientific Name: Lytechinus Vaniegatus

Max size: 8 Inches

Tank size: 30 gallon+ when small 75 gallon+ when over 5 Inches

Reef safe: Yes

Food: All kinds of algae

Notes:

Will pick up debris/shells/rocks/etc as camouflage. If it isn't then it may be sick or dying

May need supplemental feeding with nori

 

Special Needs Urchins

(need special conditions or will eat your coral and fish)

 

Common Name: Sand Dollar

Scientific Name: Clypeaster, Encope, Mellita

Max size: 6 Inches

Tank size: 30 gallon+

Food: All kinds of algae, bacteria, and diatoms

Reef safe: Yes

Notes:

Needs a deep sandbed 4"+

may suffocate in fine sand/mud

Verify origin before purchase as cold water species will die in reef temp tanks

This is a hard to keep species so be aware of that before purchase

 

Common Name: Pencil

Scientific Name: Eucidaris Tribuloides & Heterocentrotus Mammillatus

Max size: 6 Inches for ET & 13 Inches for HM

Tank size: 100 gallon+

Food: Omnivorous but trends towards carnivorous

Reef safe: No

Notes:

Will eat sessile(corals) animals and will try to catch mobile ones as well

Good for a species specific tank with lots of room

 

Urchins to avoid unless you know what you are getting into and are comfortable with the risks:

 

Common Name: Flower (vv)

Scientific Name: Toxopneustes

Max size: 6 Inches

Tank size: 100 gallon+

Food: All kinds of algae but needs occasional meat feedings

Reef safe: yes if well fed

 

Notes:

CAUTION! HIGHLY VENOMOUS AND POSSIBLY DEADLY!

May need supplemental feeding with nori

 

Common Name: Fire (vv)

Scientific Name: Asthenosoma

Max size: 6 Inches

Tank size: 100 gallon+

Food: All kinds of algae

Reef safe: Yes if well fed

Notes:

CAUTION! HIGHLY VENOMOUS AND POSSIBLY DEADLY!

May need supplemental feeding with nori

[BibleSue]

Thanks! You need to have that in the invert forum as a topic!

[Urchinhead]

You're welcome. It was. I don't know where it went.

[Basile]

Since there is no one to verify my daughter so she can do anything on this site, I will ask for her. She bought a Banded Longspine Urchin Sunday.

 

 

Lower right in her 24g Nano (my old prop tank)

 

She doesn't have much coralline in there yet & it has eaten a lot already. Any idea what she should feed it? Research has come up with nothing except that they are carnivores when they get older.

 

 

Take that thing out of there now! Urchins are reef safe in the wild but in aquariums its too small for them, yes they are cute and i did fell for it as well but it ate most of my coraline which you need more than the urchin, myne just razed my entire star polyp colony , and a few corals along the way. They are exceptional grazers but for huge aquariums, 150G and more, only there do they find enough food to leave corals alone and the coraline is so dense in bigger aquariums that it has time to regrow. So take my advice take it out, before you buy those expensive coral, at $ 40 and $50 its a big gamble. Sorry for the bad news but its your tank.I have a 29 G. getting a 65 G and i'm not even considering an urchin for it.

[CorvetteJoe]

I'd take it back and get one that just eats Nori/algaes

 

Take Urchinhead's advice!!

 

They have a really nice ping-pong ball sized purple tux urchin at my LFS. I'd love to see if I can trade my Purple Pincushion in for it.

 

I still haven't gotten my urchin to full take nori yet. I even put him in a container with just a big piece of nori in the bottom and set him right on top. he kept crawling away, or would simply move it out from under himself. he was not interested. I guess he's getting plenty to eat though, hes been healthy for several months since I caught him. most of my coralline algae is all gone, but it grows back.

 

My only issue is him knocking my zoa frags over every other day when he passes by looking for algae to much on. But thats my fault for not having them glued down yet.

 

The PPU's are non poisonous and you can pick them up and they won't stick you either (not sharp enough). They are really funny to watch pickup their shells and rocks and carry them for days on their backs all around the tank.

 

The long spine urchins are pretty, but I wouldn't want one in my tank, especially since it's special needs (feeding it meat) is going to be a pain that far outweighs the enjoyment of looking at it. Plus you have your corals and inverts to look out for as well.

[Reef Aquatics]

Joe...Long spined urchins..(Diadema) are not special needs...

 

They are herbivores and eat algea only...I have a 6 inch one in my

Reef and hes perfectly happy..

[CorvetteJoe]

Let me rephrase that... I consider them special needs in that you need to feed them separate than the other critters in the tank. They won't just eat what you dump in there.

 

For instance, my anemone, I dose the tank with A/B mix and hand feed it every other day.. that, to me, is special needs since he doesn't just eat the fish food like the fish, crabs, shrimp all do. I have to give him his own special stuff.

 

My urchin I consider short bus special needs because I still can't make him eat nori, but he seems perfectly healthy still so I dunno ... I keep trying though.

[Urchinhead]

You are not going to be able to 'make' it do anything.

 

Odds are it isn't eating nori because it either isn't coming across it, you aren't giving it to it at the right time/in the right way, or is getting food somewhere else. Unless his feeder tentacles are extended and he runs across it and he is hungry he isn't going to go after it. Get a $2 clip with suction cup on it and leave some in his path while he is on the glass with feeler's extended. See if he rolls up on it. If he does and enough tentacles find it he should go for it. See my tank thread for photos of both my urchins feeding on nori.

 

Long spines are no carnivorous. They do not eat coral.

 

Rarely do you find non-carnivorous urchins urchin's eating zoa's or other corals. Unless they are chocolate chip stars who are known to eat corals as well as fish.

 

Smaller urchins are fine in tanks as small as 10 gallons (not recommended but possible) as long as you feed them regularly. They will not destroy your corals (unless they are known coral eaters and in that case you are an idiot for buying one) by ingesting them. They can hurt your corals by bumping them over, stabbing them with their spines (long spine urchin), or traveling over them and possibly taking an accidental bite (rare as the feelers are actually smell/taste sensors and coral doesn't 'taste' good).

[CorvetteJoe]

Mine keeps mowing the coraline off the rocks every other day, theres not much left so I don't know if hes getting enough to eat.

 

I realize I can't make him eat nori, and he has picked the nori up with his feelers before, moved it out of his way and moved on.

 

I am guessing he's not hungry if he does that?

 

I dont care about my coraline, so he can keep eating that all day if he wants to. I just don't want the little guy to go hungry is all.

 

 

I've not used a vegi clip yet.. but I've done the "wrap a small rock with nori and hold it in place with a rubber band and put it in the urchin's path" method. He sat on it, climbed over it, moved around it, but in the end, the shrimp and crabs consumed most of it. I guess he wasn't hungry then either so hopefully he is getting enough from the coraline.

[Urchinhead]

If his feeding tentacles aren't extended he isn't looking for food. And if they don't hit on the nori or he isn't conditioned to consider nori as food he won't go after it. It may be that he hit on the rubber band and missed the nori.

[CorvetteJoe]

If his feeding tentacles aren't extended he isn't looking for food. And if they don't hit on the nori or he isn't conditioned to consider nori as food he won't go after it. It may be that he hit on the rubber band and missed the nori.

 

 

cool advice.. thx.

I'll keep trying.

 

I keep wanting to trade him in for a purple tux urchin they got down at the LFS. its ping pong ball sized.