ProFlatlander15 Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 just aquired a 29 and 15 gal, am definitle ygonna make it a reef. i want it as kick ass as it can get, so heres what im gonna do. for lighting, with LED moonlights (will be in fan-cooled canopy) 1)400W MH 20K 2)250W 10K with actinic PCs circulation 1 mag 5 for return from 15 gal fuge, 1 mag 250gph closed loop 45lbs LR or so, some in fuge; along with aragonite questions: i wanna drill ot so theres no overflow, what size should the holes be? i am thinking dual 1", with a dual return at .75" each. the closed loop will be .75". instead of using a SCWD, i am gonna use two hydor flos. any suggestions? i will keep you updated, i am gojng to HOme Depot now to get wood for the stand and canopy. Link to comment
rig Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 650+ Watts over a 29G? In a fan cooled canopy or not, that lighting is gona likely fry your tank. its a bit overkill anyway. I'd just go with a 250W 14 or 15k and call it a day. Or if you really want, just a 250W 10k and actinics. Link to comment
ProFlatlander15 Posted May 18, 2005 Author Share Posted May 18, 2005 sorry, i meant or, not both. yea, ill agree that would be overkill. so the 250 10K is looking good? Link to comment
Perpetual98 Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 Do a dual 150W HQI setup. A little more electricity used but a wider spread of light. Anything that needs massive amounts of light, just have higher up in the tank. 150W should be able to punch pretty well to the bottom anyway for stuff that doesn't need as much light. Later! Eric Link to comment
ProFlatlander15 Posted May 18, 2005 Author Share Posted May 18, 2005 sweet. that way i can do a regent mod for it as well. any comments on the drilling? i have never had to drill a tank before so i dont know what size holes... instead of drilling, because my LGS (local glass shop) wont drill it, i am thinking of cutting off a section of the top black rim of the tank and making little teeth in the glass, overflowing into an external overflow box. i think i like this idea better than drilling the tank, but will removing some of the black rim compromise the structural integrity of the tank? thx_ _ _ _ _ _ kinda like that / / / / / Link to comment
ProFlatlander15 Posted May 18, 2005 Author Share Posted May 18, 2005 awww... it didnt work, nvm. Link to comment
Perpetual98 Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 I've drilled a couple holes in tanks via the dremel method. it's not too bad, but it does take a while if you want to do it right. I think that drilling a hole would be easier than doing "teeth" Link to comment
ProFlatlander15 Posted May 19, 2005 Author Share Posted May 19, 2005 yea, drilling would be good but i have encountered too many problems with that and i don't want it to ruin the tank's strength by drilling so many holes. Link to comment
andykee Posted May 19, 2005 Share Posted May 19, 2005 i set up a 29 about a month ago... check out the link in my signature. i'm running a 250 mh 14k and it is fine for everything, sps up top, and softies down lower. i do have a bit of a heat issue (not too bad, light adds about 2-3 degrees @ 12" off the surface of the water) but the 400 would get too hot. i also drilled my tank with the dremel... there is a goot tutorial over on rc that i looked at before i did it, but the procedure is pretty simple... very high speed, lots of water, and go slow. good luck! Link to comment
ProFlatlander15 Posted May 19, 2005 Author Share Posted May 19, 2005 cool. i think i will tril dremelling it. thx for this and the other post. Link to comment
ProFlatlander15 Posted May 19, 2005 Author Share Posted May 19, 2005 i just drilled my first practice hole in a thin piece of glass using the dremel and water moat method. worked perfect, didnt crack! i think i am gojn to do an external overflow box, so i do not have to deal with an internal one, will hole drilled on either side for the return. i am thinking maybe a mag 10? do they have those? also, i just finished the frame of my stand. gonna put the plywood on on saturday i hope...ill try and post pics later Link to comment
ProFlatlander15 Posted May 20, 2005 Author Share Posted May 20, 2005 me practicing for dremeling my tank...this is a 3/32 piece of glass, my tank is .25" so i guess i wont have a problem drilling it. my frame for my stand...its gonna hold a 15 gal fuge on the bottom. enjoy! Link to comment
Perpetual98 Posted May 20, 2005 Share Posted May 20, 2005 Lookin' good! I need to take more pics of the new 10G that I'm working on. Link to comment
ProFlatlander15 Posted May 21, 2005 Author Share Posted May 21, 2005 updated my progress today. this is how my tanks will sit my power center. perpetual, i thought i would try something myself with this, im sorry i stole you idea. my power center partially mounted...BOTH my timers are not working so i gotta go back to Lowes tomorrow... the back of my stand, drilled for PVC and my power center Link to comment
NewbieReefer Posted May 21, 2005 Share Posted May 21, 2005 one suggestion, make a template out of 1/2" MDF with the same cutouts and mount the power center. That way it is pushed out a little more. I'm just thinking, what would happen if the tank overflowed or if some water spilled over the back. It would run down the back of the tank and then right on to the power center. You could run a GFCI receptacle as the first and then daisy chain the rest off that one. That way, if water hits them, the GFCI will trip and a fire wont happen. Just wanted to give my 2 cents. Looking Good !! Link to comment
ProFlatlander15 Posted May 21, 2005 Author Share Posted May 21, 2005 i was thinking about putting a 'roof' or something so that water runs around it, and not into it. also, where the tank sits, i am going to make a 1 inch 'lip' on the stand and caulk it so if any water does overflow, the it will tsay contained in the top of the stand. Link to comment
Perpetual98 Posted May 21, 2005 Share Posted May 21, 2005 Do the timers say NO OP on the screen? Try giving them a smack. Eric Link to comment
ProFlatlander15 Posted May 23, 2005 Author Share Posted May 23, 2005 yea...i was pressing the ON/OFF button 100s of times and was like WTF and then i hit RESET and it worked. what an idiot. i did have it say NO OP though...but that was because i messed up the gear assembly inside the timer by breaking it accitdentally...expensive mistake. lol Link to comment
Perpetual98 Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 I don't happen to have any more in stock that I could hook you up with either. Link to comment
ProFlatlander15 Posted May 23, 2005 Author Share Posted May 23, 2005 lol, its all good. i gottem working 2day. thx i just put a 1st coat of paint on the stand, gonna do another tomorrow morning, i hope i can get pics up 2nite, and the painted pics up 2morrow. Link to comment
ProFlatlander15 Posted May 24, 2005 Author Share Posted May 24, 2005 after talking to perpetual, i have decided to go with drilling two returns at a size of .75", and a drain at 1". any opposition to this, and if it can be amended let me know. thx Link to comment
ProFlatlander15 Posted May 25, 2005 Author Share Posted May 25, 2005 the front of my stand my drilling diagram for my tank...what size bulkheads for ~900 gph? the front of mystand, caulked and everything, ready to be painted power center installed i need help with drilling ideas, so lemme know what you guys think! thx Link to comment
ProFlatlander15 Posted May 25, 2005 Author Share Posted May 25, 2005 well, here it is guys, my stand is finished and painted. the placement of my stand in my downstairs rec room. my 15G fits like a glove underneath my power center finally installed. sorry my camera did not take good pics, but there is two timers to two individual outlets, and a triple switch controlling its own set of outlets. this is my external overflow box. i modelled it after impur's. it measures 5 inches deep, 12 inches wide, and 8 inches high using 1/4" glass. i am going to silicone it to the back of the 29. it will be sick. wait and see. two 1" drains as well. any comments? c'mon guys Link to comment
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