New nanoreefer - BioCube LED 32

[NoVaNate]

I'm an experienced (10+ years) freshwater planted hobbyist making my first attempt at a saltwater reef tank. I picked up a BioCube LED 32 this weekend, and it's been running for a couple of days. I've always been told by my fellow hobbyists that if I can successfully do freshwater planted tanks, I can do coral tanks.

 

Sand is 40 pounds of Caribsea Arag-Alive, 27 pounds of live rock from the local saltwater specialty store, and filled with Nutri Sea Water.

 

Currently waiting for InTank to release their 32 LED media basket to start adding my components to the filter. Right now, all that's in there is the activated charcoal that came with the unit.

 

I haven't tested the water yet, figuring it's still in cycle, but will be picking up test kits as the tank matures.

 

Questions:

1). Plans for the chambers are heater and protein skimmer in chamber 1, filter media and refugium in chamber 2 (once I get the media basket), and pump in chamber 3. I've seen mixed things about a UV sterilizer and corals, is it recommended?

2). Besides nitrate, nitrites, and phosphorus, what else should I actively be testing for in the water? My preference is not to dose the tank, if possible.

3). Recommendations on filter media when it is added?

 

I'll be rearranging my live rock along the back of the tank at some point, pictures are of the current tank.

[Water Dog]

I wouldn't bother with the UV sterilizer.

 

The question of whether to dose or not will depend heavily upon what type of coral you plan to keep as well as the frequency of water changes after you complete your cycle. Once coral is added, the most important tests IMO for maintaining coral health are alkalinity, calcium and magnesium. Then it is also important to test for nitrate and phosphate to keep it in balance on the low end as well.

 

A lot of biocubers, myself included use floss, Purigen and Chemipure Elite (I have since changed that to a mixture of 3 tbs ROX carbon and 1 tbs GFO in a media bag changed out every two weeks) in our InTank media trays.

[NoVaNate]

From research online, SPS and soft corals seem to be what the lighting of a 29 will support without lighting mods, unsure about the 32, being new and all, hobby experience is lacking. Without dosing calcium, I doubt that many LPS would be viable. My coral stocks are an ever-evolving list as I research what will/won't work in my setup.

I am looking to take things slow, start with simpler corals, and move up as I get more experience.

[Water Dog]

Other way around... with the stock lighting, even with the new LED BC32, you'll be able to keep softies and some of the less light demanding LPS like Acans, Favias and Favites... SPS are the most sensitive and light demanding corals in the hobby.

 

If you intend to keep some LPS and don't want to dose, be diligent with at least weekly 5 gallon water changes in order to to replenish your levels. As your corals' consumption demand increases, look into adding kalkwasser in your ATO reservoir in order to maintain proper calcium and alkalinity levels.

 

It's awesome that you have the right attitude about taking your time and doing the proper research. These forums are a wealth of information and there are many willing to help.

[NoVaNate]

Sorry, foruming at work, you are correct........

 

The manufacturer lists LUX and PAR:

PAR 38
Peak PAR 61
LUX 2700
Peak LUX 3510

 

In the freshwater hobby, Kelvin and WPG are the standards, so the terms are new to me. Even so, research on LUX and PAR requirements for corals just turns up a ton of debate, and not much in the way of standards.

 

I knew going in I wouldn't be able to host SPS in my tank.

 

Weekly water changes are a standard for my freshwater tanks, and so wouldn't be an issue moving forward. However, thanks for the tips, as I'll definitely be testing for those levels as coral load increases. If I need to dose, then I'll need to dose.

[Water Dog]

Good luck and have fun. Be sure to put up a build thread. I don't think we have one for the new LED BC32 yet.

[Clown79]

You will want to test while cycling. Ammonia and nitrates, nitrite isn't as important to test but if you have the kit, then test it too.

 

Its important in sw to test during the cycle, you need to ensure the tank can process a certain amount of ammonia in a 24hr period. Once the ammonia processes, then nitrites will do the same, nitrates will start to rise. Once ammonia and nitrite are at 0 - water change is performed to reduce nitrates.

Then cuc is added. Test for a week to ensure no spikes in cycle, continue weekly waterchange. If there are no spikes from the cuc, you can add a fish.

 

When you start adding corals its an absolute must to test weekly:

Ca, alk, mag, nitrates, and phos.

 

checking salinity on a daily basis until you are confident with your top ups is important.

 

I never wanted to dose my tank either. Unfortunately, I had to. Even water changes didn't help. I do 15% or more weekly - my mag constantly is low(due to the salt) actually, I dose, my mag increases and then I do a water change and voila my mag drops...the salt mixes low mag.

 

So salt choice will also effect the levels in the tank as well as what the livestock uses.

[scurvy dawg]

I'm an experienced (10+ years) freshwater planted hobbyist making my first attempt at a saltwater reef tank. I picked up a BioCube LED 32 this weekend, and it's been running for a couple of days. I've always been told by my fellow hobbyists that if I can successfully do freshwater planted tanks, I can do coral tanks.

 

Sand is 40 pounds of Caribsea Arag-Alive, 27 pounds of live rock from the local saltwater specialty store, and filled with Nutri Sea Water.

 

Currently waiting for InTank to release their 32 LED media basket to start adding my components to the filter. Right now, all that's in there is the activated charcoal that came with the unit.

 

I haven't tested the water yet, figuring it's still in cycle, but will be picking up test kits as the tank matures.

 

Questions:

1). Plans for the chambers are heater and protein skimmer in chamber 1, filter media and refugium in chamber 2 (once I get the media basket), and pump in chamber 3. I've seen mixed things about a UV sterilizer and corals, is it recommended?

2). Besides nitrate, nitrites, and phosphorus, what else should I actively be testing for in the water? My preference is not to dose the tank, if possible.

3). Recommendations on filter media when it is added?

 

I'll be rearranging my live rock along the back of the tank at some point, pictures are of the current tank.

Keep in mind that it looks like the clearance above the back chambers in the Biocube 32 is less than the Biocube 29. Skimmers that will work on the Biocube 29 may not work on the Biocube 32.