PicoSavvy Posted July 22, 2015 Share Posted July 22, 2015 For one Nano Box V3 Array what it the minimum size the heat sink has to be for passively cooling it and the minimum size for active cooling with a fan? Considering the heat sink being a flat piece of aluminum without any cooling fin. Also how many Watts of heat does the array produce running at 100 percent? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted July 23, 2015 Share Posted July 23, 2015 Watts are determine by the amperage you run the channels at. About 28-35 watts total depending on if you're going for maximum recommended or absolute maximum. Without any data on where the array will be, how enclosed it is, how much ambient airflow there is or fans inside a hood/etc, can't really say much about heatsink size. Somewhere between little and big. Link to comment
HarryPotter Posted July 23, 2015 Share Posted July 23, 2015 Watts are determine by the amperage you run the channels at. About 28-35 watts total depending on if you're going for maximum recommended or absolute maximum. Without any data on where the array will be, how enclosed it is, how much ambient airflow there is or fans inside a hood/etc, can't really say much about heatsink size. Somewhere between little and big. If I wanted to hang one above the tank (room temperature) with a fan in the room running on maximum recommended. No canopy Link to comment
PicoSavvy Posted July 23, 2015 Author Share Posted July 23, 2015 Watts are determine by the amperage you run the channels at. About 28-35 watts total depending on if you're going for maximum recommended or absolute maximum. Without any data on where the array will be, how enclosed it is, how much ambient airflow there is or fans inside a hood/etc, can't really say much about heatsink size. Somewhere between little and big. The array well be completely open, no canopy, except a splash guard. Ambient temperature will be around 82 degrees Fahrenheit. Ambient air flow I have no way of measuring this so maybe .5 cfm, but again this is just an estimate.Now out of those max 35 watt how much of it is wasted in heat. Link to comment
DaveFason Posted July 23, 2015 Share Posted July 23, 2015 There are so many factors for this without knowing exactly what you want to do. A simple heatsink would be HeatsinkUSA 7.2 profile in a 12" length. -Dave Link to comment
PicoSavvy Posted July 23, 2015 Author Share Posted July 23, 2015 In your mini tide unit don't you use a 4.5 inch heat sink. I am just try to design a heat sink for a nano box v3 array that I well be ordering soon. Does your mini tide unit have a fan in it or is it passively cool. Why is there such a big jump in size from your compact 5x3 unit to a heat sink that is 7.2 by 12 Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted July 23, 2015 Share Posted July 23, 2015 The mini is actively cooled. When you go passive, heatsink size jumps up dramatically. Link to comment
PicoSavvy Posted July 23, 2015 Author Share Posted July 23, 2015 Really the mini is actively cooled wow. It must have a really small fan, from the photos I seen of it, I never notice it had a fan. For my v3 array I had in mind ordering a 55 x 55 mm heat sink and attaching a 25mm pc fan. Something like this Link to comment
evilc66 Posted July 23, 2015 Share Posted July 23, 2015 Double the heatsink size, and you will be in better shape. 55x55 with a 25mm fan (maybe 2CFM?) isn't going to be able to reliably support 30-ish watts while keeping LED die temperatures in check. Sure, it will probably keep temperatures under the die threshold, but the cooler you keep the LEDs, the longer they live, and the more efficient they run. A bigger fan will also be able to push more air with less noise, keeping temperatures and your sanity in check (small fans are typically pretty noisy). Link to comment
PicoSavvy Posted July 25, 2015 Author Share Posted July 25, 2015 Ok thank for the recommendation do you think a 50mm fan would be enough the spec on it say it does 12 cfm Link to comment
evilc66 Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 12cfm from a 50mm fan will be annoyingly loud. You want to keep the sound rating below 30db (lower the better). You should be able to find fans under 30db that can push 5-8cfm. That will be more than enough flow, and the sound level will be tolerable. Link to comment
PicoSavvy Posted July 27, 2015 Author Share Posted July 27, 2015 Ok. I accidentally enter the wrong cfm value. The cfm is 7 cfm and noise level is 16dBA. (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/24383/fan-1338/Noiseblocker_NB-BlackSilentFan_XS-1_50mm_x_10mm_Ultra_Quiet_Fan_-_3000_RPM.html?tl=g36c15s71) Link to comment
evilc66 Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 Flow rate is fine. 16db sounds adventurous. I'm sure it will still be quiet, but not 16db quiet (that's really quiet btw). Link to comment
PicoSavvy Posted July 27, 2015 Author Share Posted July 27, 2015 With that fan do you think I can keep my heatsink around 60mm by 60mm Link to comment
evilc66 Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 Are you going to be measuring the LED temperature to see how well it performs before committing it over a tank? If no, then err on the side of caution and use a bigger heatsink. Again, the cooler the LEDs, the longer they live. Link to comment
PicoSavvy Posted July 27, 2015 Author Share Posted July 27, 2015 I will probably be measuring the Temps first. I don't want anything blowing up over my tank. Plus since this will be over a tank that is not even sure 2 gallon. I will probably never run it at it max power. Link to comment
CrazyEyes Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 Really not trying to thread jack but I figured it'd be better than making a whole new thread, I'm in the same boat, just trying to figure out what heatsink size I'd need to run 2 v3 arrays. So my question is, the heatsink I'm thinking is a 4.23" wide x 10" long (can go longer if need be) and 1.050" thick. Each puck will be placed 2" from the edge, open design, no canopy, apartment stays between 73-74 all day. I will probably run the violets at 100% while the others ranged between 20% - 70%. Just trying to figure how what size I am going to need without running fans on it. Link to comment
DaveFason Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 Really not trying to thread jack but I figured it'd be better than making a whole new thread, I'm in the same boat, just trying to figure out what heatsink size I'd need to run 2 v3 arrays. So my question is, the heatsink I'm thinking is a 4.23" wide x 10" long (can go longer if need be) and 1.050" thick. Each puck will be placed 2" from the edge, open design, no canopy, apartment stays between 73-74 all day. I will probably run the violets at 100% while the others ranged between 20% - 70%. Just trying to figure how what size I am going to need without running fans on it. Fans for sure. Most people don't realize just how hot LEDs can get, even with heatsinking. While fans can be a fail point they really are needed on 95% of builds. Where most people go wrong with fans is putting some insanely power fan blowing an un godly amount of air. You really don't need much air pushing through the fins. 60mm is always an easy size to find something quite, cost effective and simple to wire. Hope that helps! -Dave Link to comment
PicoSavvy Posted July 28, 2015 Author Share Posted July 28, 2015 I think for my build I may stick with what I am good at water cooling and maybe build a water cooled v3 array instead. The only thing that needs to be attached to it would be a water block circulating water to cool it. I seen people in reef central build water cooled led and thought they were cool. A bigger fan just gives you a bigger margin of error, so if one of it fins brake, then you know it doesn't matter because the fan is still capable of providing enough air to still keep the led cooled. In rc racing, I sometimes put fans on my motor to cool it down, I always put a 25 percent larger fan then recommend so just in case I lose a fin, my engine is still running cool Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 I still don't understand adding the extra complexity to it for so little gains. Link to comment
CrazyEyes Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 Honestly, the only reason I was trying to avoid them was to keep the fixture fairly thin but, I think I am going to try to find a local company that will mill the fins down so I can sit the fan flush with the fins. Link to comment
PicoSavvy Posted July 28, 2015 Author Share Posted July 28, 2015 I still don't understand adding the extra complexity to it for so little gains. It not really the complex, the system only has 3 parts to it the water block, pump and radiator. The only fail point is the pump or if I want ultimate simplicity all I need is a titanium water block and circulate aquarium water true it, to cool it Link to comment
evilc66 Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 3 parts does not make 3 failure points. With a water cooling setup, the pump could fail, the tubes could get blocked/kinked, the myriad of fittings could leak, the radiator could leak, the fan on the rad could fail, etc... If you have just a water block, a radiator (with fan), and a pump, you have 3 tubes that could get blocked, 6 fittings that could leak, a radiator that could leak (not at a fitting), and 2 electrical devices that could fail. By my count that's 12 points of failure. With a fan, the fan might fail Really though, what does water cooling give you that fan cooling doesn't? You aren't reducing temperatures any more, as you are limited in both cases by ambient air temperature. Noise isn't an issue provided you pick the right fan in both cases. Watercooling just massively increases the complexity, cost, and pain of installation (gotta figure out how to route the two tubes in addition to the electrical connections for the LEDs). The only time watercooling would give you an advantage is if you were cramming a silly amount of light into a tiny area and air cooling just isn't practical without hurricane force winds. Link to comment
PicoSavvy Posted July 28, 2015 Author Share Posted July 28, 2015 3 parts does not make 3 failure points. With a water cooling setup, the pump could fail, the tubes could get blocked/kinked, the myriad of fittings could leak, the radiator could leak, the fan on the rad could fail, etc... If you have just a water block, a radiator (with fan), and a pump, you have 3 tubes that could get blocked, 6 fittings that could leak, a radiator that could leak (not at a fitting), and 2 electrical devices that could fail. By my count that's 12 points of failure. With a fan, the fan might fail Really though, what does water cooling give you that fan cooling doesn't? You aren't reducing temperatures any more, as you are limited in both cases by ambient air temperature. Noise isn't an issue provided you pick the right fan in both cases. Watercooling just massively increases the complexity, cost, and pain of installation (gotta figure out how to route the two tubes in addition to the electrical connections for the LEDs). The only time watercooling would give you an advantage is if you were cramming a silly amount of light into a tiny area and air cooling just isn't practical without hurricane force winds. Well I haven't had Anything failed on my water cooled pc that now has been running smoothly for 2 year and has a much more complex system then the one I mentioned. How would the tubes get blocked if their is nothing to block it, in a close loop system You dont have dirt build up that can cause a clog. Good quality fittings don't really leak, it the same with the radiator a good quality radiator has a really low chance of leaking. Plus I will not be using a fan because I will use the flow from one of my air vent to cool the radiator so only one device that can fail the pump and again a quality pump lower the possibility of that having. With water cooling I don't have to have a heat sink hanging over the aquarium just a small water block which for me would look better. Routing the tube is not really something that is hard to do it is just like routing your drain and return. Link to comment
evilc66 Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 The leak proof nature of fittings are only as good as the monkey turning the wrench, so really, there's no such thing as leak proof fittings. And you can't guarantee that any product can't and won't leak. There is always a chance. That radiator could have been made at 5pm on a Friday by a guy who's wife left him, stole the dog and just doesn't give a shit. You just never know As for tubes getting blocked, you always have the chance of algae building up in the tubes, aluminum corroding, copper corroding, garbage left in the various components, etc... Look, the long and the short of it is that you are more than welcome to add water cooling to your setup. Is it overkill and overly complex? Yes. Will it work? Yes. Would a simple fan be easier? Yes Link to comment
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