20G Long - First Reef Build (Update 12/27/15 - FTS and Picture Dump)

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Update 2/19/2015

Currently doing daily water tests just to see about how much calc, mag, and alk I'm losing every day. The ATO still has about 1/4 tsp per gallon but I'm only down a little bit. The B-Ionic stuff should be here sometime between Wednesday and Friday of next week. I have the tracking numbers but they aren't telling me anything just yet. Here are the new numbers for today:

 

Calc: 330

Mag: 1160

Alk: 9

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Update 2/20/2015

Today was a bit different. One of the baffles in my sump came unglued a while back and I just put it back in place today. It was the one between the center section (holding just a heater and powerhead) and the return pump so there wasn't any sort of rush. Today I put it back in (didn't glue it) and there was a bit of a difference in the water levels. The ATO float switch is in the return section so it ended up dumping a bit of extra kalk (1/4 tsp per gallon) into the tank and I think that's what caused my readings today to be slightly higher. It was maybe 30 seconds of it adding water but since it's dead silent, I didn't notice at first. The B-Ionic stuff should be arriving next week. One package has finally been received by USPS and the other one just now had the printing label printed for it.

 

Ca: 350

Mag: 1160

Alk: 9.5

 

I also removed the frag plugs from the tank. I can't stand the look of plugs in a tank so here you go. Like usual, some rather awful pictures from my phone.

 

I want this to eventually become my little xenia island. I added the little xenia that could to the front. It's still attached to that shell and doing well. The main colony is still hidden and I'm hoping that it starts to climb up the back of the rock on the right.

2015-03-20_04-07-44 by vazquez_v1, on Flickr

 

Here is the hammer I bought a few weeks ago. It's doing well and eating. Took a lot of glue to get this thing in there.

2015-03-20_04-07-17 by vazquez_v1, on Flickr

 

And here is the ricordea. It was damaged in shipping and that's why the top right looks so weird. The rest is doing very well and eats well too.

2015-03-20_04-06-45 by vazquez_v1, on Flickr

 

When I was trying to get these zoas off of the frag plug they ended up splitting apart. Now I have a few up close and then the batch up top.

2015-03-20_04-06-21 by vazquez_v1, on Flickr

 

I glued these a few days ago and they're doing very well.

2015-03-20_03-58-48 by vazquez_v1, on Flickr

 

And here is the latest FTS

2015-03-20_04-14-42 by vazquez_v1, on Flickr

[VW_TDI_02]

It looks like everything has stabilized a bit for now. I forgot to test yesterday but I did today and I'm getting 360 Calc, 1160 mag, and 9 for alk. The b-ionic calcium and alkalinity stuff came in today but I'm still waiting on the magnesium since they were shipped from different places. The tracking number is saying that it should be here by Friday but it is only showing that the label has been printed and nothing else...

 

Update

In the process of doing a 10 gallon water change which will probably become my standard water change amount and decided to test the fresh batch of water. I'm using regular Instant Ocean and here are the levels using the Red Sea Foundations test kit:

 

Ca: 350

Alk: 9.5

Mag: 1200

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Well, turns out my ReefKeeper does not turn off my heater while in standby mode... Looks like it's time to go shopping. Also need to hook up my laptop to the ReefKeeper just to make sure everything is programmed how it should be.

 

Update

Found the culprit...me. Turns out when I hooked the three PC4s up, I had them labeled wrong in the ReefKeeper so when I turned off certain outlets thinking I was turning off the heater, I was turning off something else. I just went through and fixed it all. I had the first and second PC4s mixed up and that's why the Heater stayed on and ended up blowing up. Now I'm shopping for a heater.

Attach0 by vazquez_v1, on Flickr

[Uphoric]

Looking good! I'm the same I dont like seeing frag plugs in my tank either haha.

[VW_TDI_02]

Looking good! I'm the same I dont like seeing frag plugs in my tank either haha.

Yea, they just kind of ruin tanks for me. I'm actually thinking about putting in a frag tank where a refugium normally goes. Have a 36 watt par30 bulb on the way so I'll be able to hide any frags down there.

[Uphoric]

Yea, they just kind of ruin tanks for me. I'm actually thinking about putting in a frag tank where a refugium normally goes. Have a 36 watt par30 bulb on the way so I'll be able to hide any frags down there.

sounds good

[VW_TDI_02]

Update 4/3/2015

So I finally got my order in from Salt Critters. UPS was delayed and UPS online chat said I would have to wait until Monday when it was rescheduled. Eventually I ended up calling them and they said that it had already been delivered to the local office and that I could pick it up in an hour. So here are some pictures of everything that I picked up lately. The breeding net is in there because the female is just being mean and nipping at the fins of the male.

 

IMAG0760 by vazquez_v1, on Flickr

IMAG0761 by vazquez_v1, on Flickr

IMAG0762 by vazquez_v1, on Flickr

IMAG0763 by vazquez_v1, on Flickr

IMAG0764 by vazquez_v1, on Flickr

IMAG0765 by vazquez_v1, on Flickr

IMAG0766 by vazquez_v1, on Flickr

This monti was a local buy. Not from Salt Critters but I did get it for just $15.

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Well, have a few issues with the new corals unfortunately. The green torch is dead and the other torch isn't doing very well but still better. The purple torch has two distinct heads. One of the heads is dead from brown jelly disease and hopefully the other head will durvive. Tomorrow I'm going to do an iodine dip and suck up any more brown gunk. I think I'm going to try and chop off that head just to be safe. The green torch started receding and when I went to check on it tonight, the tentacles were falling off so I pulled the whole thing out and it's gone now. The other issue is with my platygora. When I originally got it, I popped it off of the frag and I cracked the skeleton of the coral. One of the corner sections is dead and is just a skeleton now but the rest of the coral is doing well. Just have to wait and see what happens with the rest of it. Everything else is doing very well.

 

I do have good news though. I finally received my par bulb for my sump. The eBay seller ended up sending me a second bulb for $10 which was amazing since I paid $26 for the first one. Still need to wait and see what happens with the case with USPS.

 

On a more personal note, I think I may have been a victim of the security issue that Bulk Reef Supply had. That's the only thing I can really think of but I honestly have nothing that connects the two. Someone got a hold of my debit card and decided to buy a $350 fishing reel. Thankfully I caught it while it was still pending and PayPal should be refunding me the money within the week. Went to check my balance and had a PayPal charge for that amount and then I checked my PayPal and it did not show the charge at all. After talking to PayPal it turns out that someone used my card on their PayPal. It is a lady from California and at this point I can only hope that the police is there whenever she tries to pick up the package.

[righttirefire]

Vw? Are you following aj's btown jelly adventure? Might help. http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/360096-brown-jelly-on-e-divisa-frogspawn-must-save-this-coral/

[VW_TDI_02]

Vw? Are you following aj's btown jelly adventure? Might help. http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/360096-brown-jelly-on-e-divisa-frogspawn-must-save-this-coral/

I read the first half of that thread when I got up and started pulling out the brown gunk from my torches. Haven't gotten around to reading the rest of the thread though. He is definitely right about the smell. That brown jelly is putrid and smells completely rotten.

[righttirefire]

Wishing you both the best. Give it hell!

[VW_TDI_02]

Update 4/28/15

The torch lives!! Well, the one died completely and the other one I ended up chopping one of the heads off and scraping it clean. I actually scraped a little bit too far and got into the internals of the healthy head but I didn't do any damage I don't think. It's been doing very well with great extension and no signs of tissue recession or brown jelly anywhere.

 

So far PayPal has not finished their investigation so they still haven't refunded my $343.99. I did cancel the card and the new card has arrived at my parents house (billing address) and it should be arriving here soon. From now on, I'm going to try and pay with PayPal. This way I don't have to worry about individual businesses getting hacked which I can only assume is easier than PayPal.

 

On a bitter/sweet note, I ordered more stuff for this damn tank... I snagged a used SL1 and it came with a double float switch but they are level with each other so I'm not sure if I'm going to use them. They are pretty corroded and currently sitting in vinegar so hopefully they'll get cleaned up with that. It also came with a second spare float switch but it's one of the side mounted ones so I don't think I'm going to use it on my tank. I think I'm going to cannibalize my current ATO pump and float switch and hook that up with the SL1 but I will have to wait a week or two before I have time to deal with that.

 

My second order was from BRS (using PayPal) and this is the one that really hurt the wallet. If you guys remember my RODI unit, it uses those inline shitty inline DI filters and I wanted to get rid of that. I bought a 1 micron sediment filter, 2 chlorplus blocks (chloramines are used in my area), and one of the DI canisters. Once I start seeing some TDS in the water I'm going to replace all of that. The filters are only a few months old and I haven't put much water through them so they are still good but I figured I would save a bit on shipping and take the price over $175.

 

I bought felt filter socks and I'm not a huge fan of them. They work well but they get clogged after like 3 days and I'm tired of cleaning them so I switched to the mesh filter socks which should hopefully last a week which would be nice.

 

Instant Ocean salt is not the best for reefs but I am going to stick with it since it is cheap and has been consistent so far. What I've been doing is simply adding 30ml of B-Ionic Calcium to each bucket of new saltwater and that raises the Ca to around 410-420. I also add in 33g of epsom salts which raises it to 1400. The issue is that I'm stuck using 60ml of the B-Ionic stuff and I'm already pretty much out of the first bottle. I decided to switch over and just use Calcium Chloride which is far cheaper. On Wednesdays and Thursdays I end up having to dose 30ml of the B-Ionic Alkalinity so that's starting to run out too and so I bought Soda Ash. That should hopefully help maintain my Alk right around 10. By Wednesday it usually has dropped to 9 even with 2 tsps of kalkwasser in my 5 gallon ATO. This last time I've raised it to 3 tsps of kalkwasser in the ATO so hopefully that will help. I checked my Alk earlier and it's sitting at 9.5. Will check again tomorrow and if it drops to 9 then I'll have to keep dosing.

 

Since I'm only going to be running a single float switch for my ATO, I've decided to get a BRS Lab Grade pH probe to hook up with my SL1. This way I'm not relying on just a mechanical part for my overflow. If my overflow gets stuck then my pH will start to rise. I'm going to set an alarm with my ReefKeeper so that when my pH rises above a certain point it will turn off my ATO and start beeping or something. That way I'll know something is wrong. Thankfully I haven't had any issues with the float switch or with stuff growing on it but with the probe I'll have a nice back up.

 

Oh, and the person I bought the SL1 from didn't include the bus cable for me to hook it up which kind of sucks but I ended up ordering a pair of 3 foot cables. Was going to get 1 foot cables but I may set it up the SL1 away from the rest of the ReefKeeper stuff since the switches and probes will be on the other side of the sump.

[VW_TDI_02]

Alright so the BRS order should be here on Monday and I have some amazing news. Not only did I get paid today but PayPal refunded me the $343.99 that was stolen from me!!! Everything looks to be working out well. I have to turn in my last two papers on Monday so thankfully I'll have some time to mess around with the new stuff. I also plan on making my own probe holder so that will be fun. Need to figure out a way so that the pH probe is never out of water but I also don't want to dunk the entire thing under water. I think I'll see if I can mount the probes between the baffles which don't really get drained during water changes.

[VW_TDI_02]

It came early!!! I wasn't expecting the package until Monday and it arrived today which kind of sucks because now I'm super tempted to mess with everything. I've got 250 pages I need to read so after that I'm free for the night. Tonight I want to hook up the pH probe and the big thing is redo my ATO set up. I'm going to use the same mount that I have in the tank now but swap out the float switch. The float switch currently in the tank has a 2.1mm jack on the end of it and I don't want to bother cutting that when I have spare float switches sitting around. The pump that came with the original float switch will get cut and will be hooked up directly to the power supply which will also have the 2.1mm jack cut off. Simple solder, heat shrink, and electrical tape and it will be good to go. I'll keep it hooked up to the same outlet and I'll be good. I'll then connect the float switch to the SL1 with the adapter kit and I'll be good to go there with a little programming on the RKL. I will need to figure out a way to mount the pH probe and I also got the calibrating solutions to get that thing accurate. I'm going to end up programming that to shut off if my pH goes too high. The reason I am doing this is that I am running kalkwasser in my ATO and if something goes wrong with that then my salinity will drop and my pH will skyrocket. With the pH probe I'll be able to shut down the ATO if that ever happens. So, Should probably get an update later on tonight. Need to get this reading done. Later everyone.

[VW_TDI_02]

I didn't get around to posting the update but I did get a lot done with the tank (not so much on my papers). Last night I reprogrammed everything on the RKL. There is an amazing guide for the ReefKeeper Lite that is linked through BRS. This thing tells you exactly what you need to do in order to set stuff up and I love it. I have tried using other guides and they are a bit more complicated than this. This is completely straightforward and for that, I like it a lot. There is a shortened version of the events that I'll list at the bottom. Guide Link.

 

The first thing I tackled was the ATO. The original ATO worked but I wasn't a huge fan since there was only one float switch and no back up measure. Originally it came with this tiny little PCB that had female connectors for those 2.1mm jacks and everything connected there and worked fine. In order to use the SL1, I had to connect the power supply directly to the pump. I didn't have any female to female connectors so I just cut off the ends and soldered them together. Added some heat shrink and then wrapped it up in electrical tape. After all of that, I went to the bathroom sink and filled it up with water. I tossed the small pump in there and plugged it in and nothing happened... The wires from the power supply were easy to identify since one was blank (neutral) and the other one was dashed (hot). The pump was a different story. It had a red cable and a white cable with no markings at all. I looked it up and someone had a similar issue with some other electrical item and one of the people to respond was adamant that red was hot and white was neutral. They were wrong. I had to take off the electrical tape, cut the heat shrink, and clip off the parts that I soldered together. After stripping the wires, I tried it again by just twisting the wire ends together and then plugging it in and it worked. I then soldered, added the heat shrink, and covered it all in electrical tape. Tested it again and it was all good.

 

Pump Wiring = Done

 

The float switches that came with the SL1 were also smaller than the one I had been using. I ended up doing the same as the pump and power supply and simply cut off the end soldered the adapter kit directly to the float switch cable. That was then going to be hooked up to the SL1. Float Switch = Done

 

I was looking for a way to set up the float switch and I found a few flaws with the ReefKeeper system but I was able to work around them. To start, I had to program the float switch. I found a YouTube clip originally that set it up using an alarm and I tried that way and it failed miserably. I think that was due to the float switch being upside down but I didn't know about that at the time. After looking back on the web, I found the guide I linked above and it showed me a step by step way of doing it.

 

Using the computer I renamed Switch A to ATO and then I did the rest on the head unit since nothing was wanting to work right on the computer other than that. For the programming, you can select one of the channels (outlets) and set the function as a "Switch". I got it all set up and of course, it doesn't work. Turns out the float on the float switch was upside down. All I had to do was to switch the programming. It gives you the option saying "Off When" and you can put in open or closed. For my float switch, I had to do the opposite and it worked just fine. Since it was a float switch, I didn't think there would be any positive or negative ends to it. This may be why I had to change it so that the programming was the opposite. Not sure.

 

Float Switch Programming = Done

 

The next thing I tackled was the pH probe. I got a lab grade pH probe from BRS and this is going to be my backup in case the ATO messes up. I'm currently running about 3 tsps of kalkwasser in my 5 gallon ATO. The way I set it up is that if the pH ever hits 8.4, the ATO pump channel/outlet will shut off. First I got it calibrated which took about 20 minutes. It was really easy but I just had to wait about 10 minutes for the reading to stabilize. I used the calibration solutions from Milwaukee and they worked well. Once calibrated, I went to program it to turn off my ATO pump. This is the one part I didn't like. You can set the function of an outlet as a "Controller" and this way it will leave that outlet on as long as the pH reading is under whatever you set it as. The issue is that I had already set the function for that outlet as a "Switch" since it was running off the SL1 Float Switch. The only way around this was to set an alarm. It was simple to configure the alarm and I have it set so that if the pH rises above 8.4 then it will kill the outlet. I may adjust that but I'm not really sure. I am going to wait and see the how much the pH fluctuates over time and I may drop it down to 8.3. Right now it hovers between 8.1 and 8.2 depending on the time of day but I need to look at it more often to get a better idea. Regardless, I now have an alarm set so that it shuts off the ATO pump if the pH reaches 8.4.

 

pH Probe Calibration and Programming = Done

 

Once I got everything working, it was time to mount it. None of the cables were set in the right place since I was just trying to get it working. I took a piece of velcro and mounted the SL1 in the back left which is the opposite side of the PC4s and stuff but it is the side where the float switch is. It was also an easy place to reach since there was nothing there. Using simple twist ties I took up the extra cable that was everywhere and got that out of the way. As you can see in the picture it came out pretty well. Nothing special but it does the job.

 

SL1 Mounting = Done

 

2015-05-02_04-59-34 by vazquez_v1, on Flickr

 

The next thing is something I still need to work on and figure out. The probe holders I see online are rather expensive for what they are and I simply don't feel like tossing out $30-$40 for a small chunk of plastic and some magnets. This summer I think I'm going to try to make some sort of holder for them. It will probably be a simple chunk of plastic that is bent over the rim with an adjustable height level. The only issue is the pH probe. The top is always supposed to stay wet and it can be damaged if it dries out. I always do my water changes in the sump since I can pull 10 gallons out of there. With the addition of the frag rack in the sump, I now pull as much water as I can from the display without any corals being out of the water. This gives me about 4ish gallons and with that I can have about 3-4 inches worth of water in my sump which keeps the frags under water as well. This leads me to the pH probe. I don't want it to be dunked under water the entire time so I'm not sure where to mount it. Right now I have the pH probe and the temperature probe between two baffles that don't drain. Still not sure what I'm going to do. I think over the summer I'm going to redo the sump. The baffles are made out of 1/8th" acrylic and are very flexible. One of the baffles has even come off but that's not an issue. I think I'm going to redo it with some 1/4" acrylic or glass but that's a job for the summer. I'll probably just set up a whole new sump out of another 20 long since they're so cheap. I could also just have a probe holder on one of the taller baffles that hangs the probes over the edge into the gap between the baffles. That might be the best bet. As you can see in the picture, it isn't very pretty the way they are right now.

 

Probe Holder = To Be Continued

 

2015-05-02_04-59-52 by vazquez_v1, on Flickr

That was everything that I did last night. Today, I did a bit more work but it was on the RODI system. While working on the tank last night I noticed that my ATO reservoir was low and probably wouldn't make it through the night. It was pretty late so I just unplugged the pump and called it a night. If you guys can recall, this is the RODI unit that I originally bought. It had three canisters for a sediment filter and two carbon blocks. From there it went to a regular RO membrane and then to two small inline DI filters. I'm not a huge fan of these filters because I have no way of knowing when they are used up. I couldn't figure out how to open them and I don't think they're meant to be opened up. The solution I came up with was to simply get rid of them. I bought the DI canister from BRS and surprisingly it came with a full canister of DI resin so now I have a spare. I took off the original two DI filters and routed the water line to the new DI filter with some spare tubing. I am now running a BRS 1 micron sediment filter, 2 of the chlorplus carbon blocks, and a refillable DI canister. Once everything was loaded in and set, I tested it out. The first three containers were fine but the new DI canister was leaking. Since it isn't mounted anywhere, it was difficult to get a good hold of it so that I could tighten it. Tightening the other three is easy since I can just hold onto the bracket but not with this. Eventually I got it tightened and have no leaks. I plan on buying a place over the summer so this is only a temporary mount. In the new place I would probably mount it on a wall in the laundry room or somewhere. Will probably have a larger 20 gallon trashcan on wheels that I'll use so I can stop flooding my kitchen. Here is the current final product.

2015-05-02_04-59-13 by vazquez_v1, on Flickr

 

In regards to the display, I'm dealing with some brown algae issues right now. It's only in the sump frag area and on the glass. It appears that the CUC is taking care of it all when the algae is on the rock and stuff but not on the glass. The issue was that I didn't load the GFO reactor correctly and it wasn't tumbling. I took out the canister and set it up again and now it's back tumbling. Hopefully the algae will start to go away but it really isn't too bad. I added a pair of hermit crabs to the frag area so hopefully they will take care of some of it while the GFO catches up. I will be replacing the GFO and carbon in about a week or two as usual. Have a schedule for it but don't remember exactly when it is.

 

 

Short Version!!!

- ATO is now run through the SL1

- New BRS Lab Grade Probe added. Set to turn off ATO (has kalkwasser) if the pH rises above 8.4

- Still need to figure out a probe holder other than just tossing them between baffles

- Took off the old DI filter and replaced it with a refillable BRS DI canister

- Replaced sediment filter and carbon blocks with 1 micron sediment filter and 2 chlorplus carbon blocks.

- Getting some brown algae on glass. Probably due to me not setting up the GFO reactor correctly. Redid the canister and is back tumbling but the GFO will be replaced in a week or two.

- Torch appears back to normal minus the missing head.

[VW_TDI_02]

Update 5/8/2015

Just put in a new order from Amazon but it's nothing special. I placed an order for NLS Hex Shield but that's for my freshwater tank and not actually necessary right now but I figured I would give it a shot. I also placed an order for a magnetic probe holder. Links for those are below and they are supposed to get here on Sunday.

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0046HMI94/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LOF33N6/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I also wanted to get some opinions on some plumbing stuff. I'm pretty much ready to start the new tank and get that thing drilled and plumbed but first I wanted to make sure I had everything set up correctly. The plan is to use 3/4" PVC for the two drains and the one return line. I got two slip x slip bulkheads for the drains and one slip x threaded bulkhead for the return. The thread is on the flange side and that's where I'll screw in the loc-line. I also got a strainer for the overflow and I also picked up an overflow box. I'm a bit worried about the overflow box and I was thinking about calling them before ordering some time in the near future. I chose the extra small overflow box which is 6 3/8" L x 2 3/8" W x 3 5/8" H so I think I should be able to fit the two drains in there along with elbows and the strainer. My plan is to run one as a full siphon and then the other one will be an emergency drain. That emergency drain will be a straight shot down to the sump with out any ball valves or anything like that. The full siphon drain will have a gate valve in there so that I can get that perfectly tuned. I also picked up a bit to make the holes and I think I'm going to get a drill press adapter for hand drills but that will probably be off of Amazon since they are so much cheaper there. So far I'm looking at about $120 without the new tank so I think I'm going to hold off until pay day. Let me know what you guys think and if I'm missing anything or have something off.

[righttirefire]

Looks like my build. pm me or read my SWAPPED thread. It's pretty complete

[VW_TDI_02]

Looks like my build. pm me or read my SWAPPED thread. It's pretty complete

I've been subscribed to both, haha. It's looking good! Did you free hand the drilling or did you use something else?

[righttirefire]

I free hand drilled them. I left the paper on the smooth side laid out my drill pattern... I can't remember it now. Made a punch mark and drilled an 1/8" pilot hole. I than filled over my piece and drilled the pilots out to 3/16" so the bur would be on the smooth side and "chambered" both sides.

[VW_TDI_02]

Update 5/17/2015

Well, it has begun. I got my order from BRS and I'm now in the process of switching tanks. My plan is to get a new 20 long and drill it, install the bulkheads, and silicone in the overflow box. So far that's as far as I've gotten. I let it sit overnight so now it should be ready for water. Unfortunately, I'm not going to be able to do anything with it until tonight. I only drilled the two 3/4" drains and I'm leaving the return the way it was. I have pictures but something is wrong with flickr and won't let me get the links for any of my pictures.

[righttirefire]

WOOHOO! I'm pretty excited for you

[VW_TDI_02]

So I don't really know what is going on with Flickr. It no longer gives me the option of sharing my pictures. Doesn't matter if they are private or public either. I managed to get the sharing menu on one and they only offer the link to the pictures (no BBcode, html, etc.) and buttons for FB, Pinterest, and other social media sites...

[righttirefire]

Photo bucket

[VW_TDI_02]

 

I guess I'm making the switch back to photobucket. Very simple to use. I just don't understand why Flickr changed. Hopefully it is just a temporary bug with the newest update they had but I guess I'll just have to wait and see. here is what I have so far. I haven't had time to do anything today. The left bulkhead will be the emergency drain but I'm afraid that the fitting in there isn't going to hold water. I think I'm going to toss a thick bead of silicone around the fitting and glue it into the bulkhead. It isn't ideal but it will have to do. The right bulkhead will be the main siphon and I don't plan on having any fitting son it. There simply isn't any room in the small overflow box. That is one good thing that I like about it but at the same time makes things difficult. Oh, and the clamps are on there but they aren't super tight. It was just enough to hold the box in place but not enough to bend the box or anything like that. Not really sure when I'll be able to mess with it again. I started studying for my Master's exam and that's taking up 8 hours of my day for actual studying and on top of that are the coffee and food breaks. Leaves me about an hour. Today it left me about an hour at the end of the day. It's water change day and I did my freshwater tank but I'm still making RODI for my saltwater. I think I'm going to make one bucket and then tomorrow I'll make the second bucket and do the change.