Nstocks Posted September 16, 2014 Author Share Posted September 16, 2014 I've almost completed the sump design (which is no longer square) Would a baffle after the drain chamber be beneficial, if the water goes underneath the baffle rather than over it? The drain chamber is quite large and a baffle may reduce bubbles. The chamber after this is two filter socks, followed by the skimmer. Link to comment
farkwar Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 It doesnt make a difference, other than taking up room. I found it hard to silicone the glass in that tight space as well, made a mess but no one can see it but me. You have to tape it off using an acrylic rod. Then you use a 3/8" diameter acrylic rod to apply the silicone down in that little crevice. Blob silicone on the end, then fillet it up the corner. Wear nitrile gloves so you can clean off the rod as needed with your hand. Dispose of siliconed gloves, buy a box of them. Remove your blue masking tape before silicone sets. I tried using a tube extension placed on end of the silicone tip.Didnt work well, the silicone was too viscous to flow. Link to comment
Mr. Microscope Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 I built my sump from scratch. It's like 16 x 15.5 x 13. To keep things simple, I just went with a basic two chamber design with bubble trap baffels. One of the baffels is extra wide to serve as a makeshift fuge. This design also maximized water volume as there's less stages for the water to flow through. Link to comment
Nstocks Posted September 16, 2014 Author Share Posted September 16, 2014 It doesnt make a difference, other than taking up room. I found it hard to silicone the glass in that tight space as well, made a mess but no one can see it but me. You have to tape it off using an acrylic rod. Then you use a 3/8" diameter acrylic rod to apply the silicone down in that little crevice. Blob silicone on the end, then fillet it up the corner. Wear nitrile gloves so you can clean off the rod as needed with your hand. Dispose of siliconed gloves, buy a box of them. Remove your blue masking tape before silicone sets. I tried using a tube extension placed on end of the silicone tip.Didnt work well, the silicone was too viscous to flow. The thing is, I'm not building it! I've already ask the tank builders about the sizing and they said they can do it. (I asked about 10mm gaps for lid bracing - this they could not do) Maybe if I increase the bubble trap size from 25mm to 35mm? Would the bubble trap immediately after the drain chamber even help with bubbles since it's going under first, rather than over? Just seems like a waste of space really! I built my sump from scratch. It's like 16 x 15.5 x 13. To keep things simple, I just went with a basic two chamber design with bubble trap baffels. One of the baffels is extra wide to serve as a makeshift fuge. This design also maximized water volume as there's less stages for the water to flow through. Is that a Bubble Magus 3.5 I see How do you find the noise level with it - some say it is noisy. Link to comment
Mr. Microscope Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Is that a Bubble Magus 3.5 I see How do you find the noise level with it - some say it is noisy. It's the old NAC3. The 3.5 is a cone. Noise level seems fine. The MaxiJet 900 I have on my carbon reactor is louder. Link to comment
Drexellake Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 I only siloconed one side of the glass and it holds fine. Link to comment
Arkayology Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 Here's a pic of my sump. 18x18x18 inches. The drain goes in on the right with the skimmer, flows into the small fuge compartment on the front left, and then down and over into the return. Pretty simple. Hope this gives you some ideas. Link to comment
Nstocks Posted April 22, 2015 Author Share Posted April 22, 2015 Update The sump has been manufactured and I set up the tank this week! I've considered the worse case scenario, whereby the return pump fails and the ATO pump also fails to turn off, pumping all the RO water into the sump. I've calculated that I can hold 10litres of RO water which means the chamber on the left is exactly half empty (by height if I put in a divider). In a week or so I will upload the build; right now I'm forward thinking the opportunities of utilising all the space. It's 140mm wide x 200mm long x 400mm high. It is completely dry from the sump/aquarium and it cannot be drilled. I have a little too much rock (by size) in my sump (total is 15KG for a 200L system) so I was thinking about taking some out and boosting filtrations with an external reactor (?) in what would be a newly created dry chamber. Though, I won't know if I need that yet. I'm culturing copepods for a Mandarin Dragonet in a 5L shallow Tupperware container. Perhaps I could move those into the newly created chamber? (apparently they don't do so well in taller vessels though). Link to comment
Kimosobey Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 Any updates? Doing my first sump wanted to go with a cube but dang it's a daunting task... Link to comment
Marc.The.Shark Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 Any updates? Doing my first sump wanted to go with a cube but dang it's a daunting task... I patterned my cube sump after the Trigger Systems model. Works great http://www.triggersys.com/test/sump-vs-elite-vs-cube/ Link to comment
Nstocks Posted June 10, 2015 Author Share Posted June 10, 2015 Any updates? Doing my first sump wanted to go with a cube but dang it's a daunting task... I'll be updating my tank build next week. I ended up removing ALL of the baffles and using an external container for the RO storage. Link to comment
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