Mariaface Posted August 18, 2014 Share Posted August 18, 2014 Ah, I see. They just look a bit unhappy... Where did you get them? Did you quarantine or dip them before adding them to the tank? Or check for pests? Again, just keep the tank stable and make sure nothing's actually actively trying to hurt the zoas. They'll get used to your parameters on their own. As far as the other coral, it looks happy. Do you know if that's where you want to keep them? If not, you can probably start to play with moving them higher up in the tank a little at a time to acclimate to the light. Link to comment
ackattackkk Posted August 18, 2014 Author Share Posted August 18, 2014 Ah, I see. They just look a bit unhappy... Where did you get them? Did you quarantine or dip them before adding them to the tank? Or check for pests? Again, just keep the tank stable and make sure nothing's actually actively trying to hurt the zoas. They'll get used to your parameters on their own. As far as the other coral, it looks happy. Do you know if that's where you want to keep them? If not, you can probably start to play with moving them higher up in the tank a little at a time to acclimate to the light. No I wasnt planning on keeping them there. He just told me to start low and then work my way up so thats what I did. can you tell what the open ones are? I forget their name. Id rather have the dragoneyes open they are way better looking lol Link to comment
Mariaface Posted August 18, 2014 Share Posted August 18, 2014 I can't quite tell if they're button polyps or regular palythoas. And even then, I couldn't come up with an exact name. Try to get a nice, clear photo and see if someone can help in the Identification forum, maybe? Link to comment
HOTWATER Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/ Link to comment
Chris! Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Alkalinity like 13-14 dkh and calcium 600 mg/l (600ppm)? Using the API Reef Master kit If you are using the regular instant ocean salt theres no way the test is accurate especially on the calcium unless the salt wasn't properly mixed (if you have a bucket lay it on its side and roll it around a few times). I don't remember what the alk is supposed to be on that stuff but the calcium is usually like 350-360 straight out of the bucket when properly mixed. Personally I've always shot for 7-8 for alk, and 420-450 for calcium. I tend to run lower nutrients (carbon dosing, biopellets etc.) so high alk isn't my friend and those numbers have worked for me in the past..... that said every tank is different and your tank may do better with slightly different #'s Link to comment
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