Luxeon Rebel ES 'Lime' - pics and PAR

[jedimasterben]

I think your image links are broken

 

But that's basically what we've discussed in this thread.

[markalot]

I think your image links are broken

 

But that's basically what we've discussed in this thread.

 

Yea, direct links don;t work, I copied the images below. My point is not looks, but to be able to reproduce the spectrum of Halide bulb known to make corals look their best. My ideal fixture would have a switch to allow me to select 10, 15, and 20K while reproducing spectrums known to work. Endless adjustment is only going to lead to more failure IMO.

 

 

 

 

My Razor is listed as 16K so this comparison is not really valid, but it shows what changes are needed to try and match the 20K Halide bulb. I wish the Razor had a sharp peak in the 525 to 550 range so that I could raise that for perceived brightness without bringing 560+ along for the ride.

[jedimasterben]

The issue is that what YOU consider to replicate the look of a certain halide will not match what I think of the same bulb, not even factoring in the dozens of different ballasts that are used to (improperly, usually) drive the same bulbs. The Radium 20K 400w bulb looks awesome, very crisp blue tone to it, but only when driven on a proper low-current ballast, keeping the bulb around 360w (which is what it is rated for). Most people run them on electronic 'HQI' ballasts that drive them over 400w, sometimes over 450w, which not only significantly reduces the bulb lifespan but also causes an extreme shift in the spectral output, reducing blue the beautiful tone to a muddled one.

 

Same thing happens with the 270w Radium, a lot of people try and run them on ballasts that only give the bulb 240-250w, and even that small difference turns the bulb smurf blue in output with almost no green and red (compared the still small amount that the bulb would have at nominal current).

 

All in all, the reason why there are a dozen different LED colors to choose from is because nobody has the same preference and will want their light to be what looks best over their tank, whether it be MH, T5, LED, or a combination.

 

Personally, we need to have more distributed light. The only cost-effective manner for this is, unfortunately, fluorescent lamps. BuildMyLED is on the right track (if their lenses were removable and their splash shield was frosted, which it might be already), but $800 for a pair of 60" LED strips to replace a pair of 80w T5 bulbs over a tank like yours is a hard pill to swallow compared to (for instance) $150 for a retrofit pair of 60" T5HO and another $50 for bulbs. The LEDs will need less power to have the same radiometric output, but the extra $600 would take many years to pay off.

 

And then there are the people that still think that LEDs can never replace other lights, but that's another issue entirely

[markalot]

I don't know how many people actually believe LED, the technology, can't replace other lights. If you could achieve the exact spectrum and reflected properties of a favorite Halide bulb and reflector with LED then the results would be exactly the same. The problem is few if any people have been able to do that, or don't understand how important it is until it's too late.

 

I always get it right after making a major purchase. I cannot run Halide, ever, so I am trying to understand how best to reproduce the colors of either the 20K Halide or T5's with LED. I saw a Radium for the first time a a LFS just last week and I hated the color. It might have been driven incorrectly, I know nothing of the technology.

[Hart24601]

I noticed reefll is using lime and they are starting to release premade fixtures. I prefer to have the LEDs distributed over the entire tank like a strip light, but these look pretty sweet. Thinking of getting 3 vega 100's to run over my 120. Would angle the ones on the ends inward and keep the middle one straight to try and prevent self shading.

 

http://reefll.com/index.php?route=product/list&path=64

[jedimasterben]

I don't know how many people actually believe LED, the technology, can't replace other lights. If you could achieve the exact spectrum and reflected properties of a favorite Halide bulb and reflector with LED then the results would be exactly the same. The problem is few if any people have been able to do that, or don't understand how important it is until it's too late.

 

I always get it right after making a major purchase. I cannot run Halide, ever, so I am trying to understand how best to reproduce the colors of either the 20K Halide or T5's with LED. I saw a Radium for the first time a a LFS just last week and I hated the color. It might have been driven incorrectly, I know nothing of the technology.

You'd be astounded to find out just how many people still think that. They're gonna have a very rude awakening once some of the major manufacturers of fluorescent bulbs (Sylvania, Philips) start ceasing production or limiting production runs as they move more and more towards their LED production (Sylvania makes Osram and Philips make their Luxeon line).

 

No single LED can replicate the 'spikey' spectrum that you see in vapor lighting due to the phosphors used, which is why you always see LEDs with a rounded spectral output (though some LEDs, such as deep red, have very small spectral half-widths [which is the spectrum they emit at least 50% energy in] and are closest to these 'spikes').

 

I am, as always, planning my next array, this time I'll be playing around with using Philips 90CRI 2700K warm white and lime Rebel ES as the 'white' spectrum, with LEDgroupbuy violet, Philips royal blue, blue, cyan for the rest.

 

I noticed reefll is using lime and they are starting to release premade fixtures. I prefer to have the LEDs distributed over the entire tank like a strip light, but these look pretty sweet. Thinking of getting 3 vega 100's to run over my 120. Would angle the ones on the ends inward and keep the middle one straight to try and prevent self shading.

 

http://reefll.com/index.php?route=product/list&path=64

It's a very expensive light to go with, especially to purchase three of them. You should be able to tune it to just about anything you'd want, but I'd still prefer to see a warm white LED used instead of PC-amber and red, as you've still got little to no radiation above ~650nm (a little of the higher red is a good thing for warmer color rendition).

[Hart24601]

You'd be astounded to find out just how many people still think that. They're gonna have a very rude awakening once some of the major manufacturers of fluorescent bulbs (Sylvania, Philips) start ceasing production or limiting production runs as they move more and more towards their LED production (Sylvania makes Osram and Philips make their Luxeon line).

 

No single LED can replicate the 'spikey' spectrum that you see in vapor lighting due to the phosphors used, which is why you always see LEDs with a rounded spectral output (though some LEDs, such as deep red, have very small spectral half-widths [which is the spectrum they emit at least 50% energy in] and are closest to these 'spikes').

 

I am, as always, planning my next array, this time I'll be playing around with using Philips 90CRI 2700K warm white and lime Rebel ES as the 'white' spectrum, with LEDgroupbuy violet, Philips royal blue, blue, cyan for the rest.

 

It's a very expensive light to go with, especially to purchase three of them. You should be able to tune it to just about anything you'd want, but I'd still prefer to see a warm white LED used instead of PC-amber and red, as you've still got little to no radiation above ~650nm (a little of the higher red is a good thing for warmer color rendition).

I didn't think 3 of the lights for $900 was outrageous to light a 120 (for the vega 100s), is there a cheaper "better" commercial light out there you like for us non-DIY people?

[jedimasterben]

I didn't think 3 of the lights for $900 was outrageous to light a 120 (for the vega 100s), is there a cheaper "better" commercial light out there you like for us non-DIY people?

They're only $300 each? I thought I saw that they were more. That sounds about right, but at any rate I'm still no fan of such extreme point-source lighting.

[DNK]

They're only $300 each?

Low price is important, agree. But more important the precision control of the light. I sure, it is main target for all designers of light for marine aquaria. I hope, we have solved this task in the smart manner