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Cyno problem but nitrate & phos 0 & low bioload?


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#1
duganderson

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I've got a pretty bad cyno bacteria problem but I just tested my water and the nitrates and phosphates are 0. Also, I have a very small bio-load.

I have a 28 g. nano cube with 2 small (1.25 inch) clowns, 2 RBTA, 23 lbs of LR some softies and some snails and hermits.

Can you explain how this is happening? Do these water test results impact how I treat it?

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#2
Tenor

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I've got a pretty bad cyno bacteria problem but I just tested my water and the nitrates and phosphates are 0. Also, I have a very small bio-load.

I have a 28 g. nano cube with 2 small (1.25 inch) clowns, 2 RBTA, 23 lbs of LR some softies and some snails and hermits.

Can you explain how this is happening? Do these water test results impact how I treat it?


It's normal with new tank when your bioload not stable yet or over feeding over a long period. You need to treat it with "red slime remover" from Chemi-clean. Remember do 20% water change after the all the red slime gone.

Good luck

Edited by Tenor, 19 March 2012 - 07:20 PM.

Check out my feedback:  http://www.nano-reef...back-for-tenor/


#3
Formula462

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It's normal with new tank when your bioload not stable yet or over feeding over a long period. You need to treat it with "red slime remover" from Chemi-clean. Remember do 20% water change after the all the red slime gone.

Good luck


no you do not NEED to do that. how old are your lights? The bulbs themselves I mean.

#4
altolamprologus

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I can tell you right now your phos is not 0. Get a kit that actually tests below .25 ppm

You're the type of man who passes by sports illustrated and grabs encyclopedia brittanica when you take a dump, huh?

Did someone mention Alto ???
Im GAGA for Alto !!

I'd give you a hug but you might stab me

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#5
ermartin

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I've got a pretty bad cyno bacteria problem but I just tested my water and the nitrates and phosphates are 0. Also, I have a very small bio-load.

I have a 28 g. nano cube with 2 small (1.25 inch) clowns, 2 RBTA, 23 lbs of LR some softies and some snails and hermits.

Can you explain how this is happening? Do these water test results impact how I treat it?

didn't you ask this question yesterday ? My answer would be the same as yesterday
Gru: Hello, Fred. FYI. Your dog has been leaving little bombs in my yard, and I do not appreciate it.
Fred McDade: Oh you know dogs... they go where they want to go.
Gru: Unless they're dead.
[laughs]
Gru: Just kidding! Oh, though it is true.

#6
duganderson

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didn't you ask this question yesterday ? My answer would be the same as yesterday


I just got the nitrate and phosphate test results this afternoon.

#7
1fishmonger

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Don't worry about the test kits...The results don't effect how you battle cyano.

How often do you change your water?
How often do you clean the rear chambers of your cube? Including filter floss and other media you may have back there.
How often do you feed your tank?
What kind of pumps are you using for flow?
Who/what is your water source?

Your answer will be found in these 5 questions. :)

#8
FlCandy

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I can tell you right now your phos is not 0. Get a kit that actually tests below .25 ppm



Even with the better kits the Cyano will be using it up so fast you would be lucky if you had a reading.

Either way it is there somewhere, and is fueling the Cyano.

Fishmonger is dead on with the questions asked. We can point it out if we know those things. And it will click for you as well.

Edited by FlCandy, 21 March 2012 - 02:15 PM.


#9
1fishmonger

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No one wants to fess up that they only do water changes once a month! j/k

#10
duganderson

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Here are the answers to the 5 questions...

1. I change 5 gallons every 2-3 weeks.
2. I have not cleaned the back chambers since I bought it in early Jan.
I run natural filtration and the only thing in the basket is a physical filter which I rinse well weekly.
3. I feed my fish daily with pellets or frozen shrimp alternating by day. I feed only enough that they can eat in 30 seconds.
4. 2 stock return pumps that I run both constantly (not on wave machine) and 1 Korilla Nano pump (425)
5. I always use RODI water from LFS.

Other details. I have 23 lbs of high quality porous live rock.

Thanks for the help, Doug

Edited by duganderson, 21 March 2012 - 03:01 PM.


#11
FlCandy

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No one wants to fess up that they only do water changes once a month! j/k


Once every 5-6 days like clockwork, I honestly do them that often! :D

Here are the answers to the 5 questions...

1. I change 5 gallons every 2-3 weeks. Increase your WC to weekly, you have a nutrient issue
2. I have not cleaned the back chambers since I bought it in early Jan., that's probably source #1
I run natural filtration and the only thing in the basket is a physical filter which I rinse well weekly. Buy a new one every month or just get the stuff from WalMart for 3$ a bag and change it every 3 days
3. I feed my fish daily with pellets or frozen shrimp alternating by day. I feed only enough that they can eat in 30 seconds. Since your having issues you should feed every other day or so or increase you water changes to weekly and do 5 gallons every week.
4. 2 stock return pumps that I run both constantly (not on wave machine) and 1 Korilla Nano pump (425)
5. I always use RODI water from LFS.

Other details. I have 23 lbs of high quality porous live rock.

Thanks for the help, Doug



May want to get some GFO or Chemi-Pure Elite to help suck the Phosphates up before the Cyano uses it.

Notes made in red. Sorry easier that way.

Edited by FlCandy, 21 March 2012 - 03:05 PM.


#12
1fishmonger

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Here are the answers to the 5 questions...

1. I change 5 gallons every 2-3 weeks.
2. I have not cleaned the back chambers since I bought it in early Jan.
I run natural filtration and the only thing in the basket is a physical filter which I rinse well weekly.
3. I feed my fish daily with pellets or frozen shrimp alternating by day. I feed only enough that they can eat in 30 seconds.
4. 2 stock return pumps that I run both constantly (not on wave machine) and 1 Korilla Nano pump (425)
5. I always use RODI water from LFS.

Other details. I have 23 lbs of high quality porous live rock.

Thanks for the help, Doug


Hmm.. Mmmhmm mhmm.. *doh*... You bought the tank in Jan..? Here are my 3 guesses:

1. Set up the tank in Jan and it didn't go through a complete cycle.
2. Water changes 2-3 weeks...So more like 3-4 weeks ;) (It's possible you've only done 2 water changes since setting up your tank)
3. Have you tested the TDS of your LFS RO water?

I never suggest Chemi-Clean as is really only a temporary fix and I'm completely against throwing chemicals in the tank when not absolutely necessary. Step up your water changes - Do them twice a week. Siphon out all visible cyano with airline tubing during the water changes and in a few weeks, your problem should be solved. I'd also throw another pump in your tank as it doesn't sound like you're getting enough flow.

Do as I say and you'll be golden. I guarantee it :D

#13
JDK

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3. Have you tested the TDS of your LFS RO water?


+1

LFS RO water is notorious for not being clean. TDS it

#14
duganderson

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When I bought the tank, it had been set up for almost 2 years. I moved all of the water and did a 7 gallon water change after the move. The amonia, nitrite and nitrate were at 0 in under a week when I tested it.

Hmm.. Mmmhmm mhmm.. *doh*... You bought the tank in Jan..? Here are my 3 guesses:

1. Set up the tank in Jan and it didn't go through a complete cycle.
2. Water changes 2-3 weeks...So more like 3-4 weeks ;) (It's possible you've only done 2 water changes since setting up your tank)
3. Have you tested the TDS of your LFS RO water?

I never suggest Chemi-Clean as is really only a temporary fix and I'm completely against throwing chemicals in the tank when not absolutely necessary. Step up your water changes - Do them twice a week. Siphon out all visible cyano with airline tubing during the water changes and in a few weeks, your problem should be solved. I'd also throw another pump in your tank as it doesn't sound like you're getting enough flow.

Do as I say and you'll be golden. I guarantee it :D



#15
FlCandy

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When I bought the tank, it had been set up for almost 2 years. I moved all of the water and did a 7 gallon water change after the move. The amonia, nitrite and nitrate were at 0 in under a week when I tested it.


Like we all said there is also probably Phosphates in the tank, testing won't matter as the Cyano is using it up before you can test for it. I bet you have it there.

I did not suggest Chemi-Clean I suggested to run some form of media that will help pull the Phosphate and Dissolved solids out of the tank so it would help to starve the algae out.

I bet the sand bed was really old and have a HUGE buildup of nasty gunk in it and when you moved it you didn't change out the sand correct? This can leach Phosphates, Nitrates and can even have stuff that if it is mixed into the water column it will kill everything.

Do you have any livestock in there? I am guessing yes.