On the D model, the choice to dim with an inline potentiometer is the only optional part. You will still need to supply a max of 10v (ish) to that line. I made the same error when I was testing.
Doc and Evil both advised me to use a 9V battery on the dim lines if you don;t have a rock solid 9-10v power supply. In other words, if you buy a wall wart that is rated 9V, you have to actually plug it in and test it with a multimeter to make sure it is rated at what it says it is.
I used this:http://www.sparkfun....products_id=298
Unplug the AC cord to the Meanwell.
Once you have 9v around, either battery or stable wart, and connected to the + DIM and - DIM, you need to take the cover off the Meanwell and turn the SV2 screw all the way to the left (check your datasheet if you can't find it, but it is marked on the board). You will then need to wire your multimeter in line like it is an 8th LED. So, you take the - wire from your last LED on one string, and tie it to the multimeter + (set the meter to 10A and use that slot on the meter holes), now take your - multimeter leg and tie that to the Meanwell black. Treat the multimeter like another and last LED...it is just + and - like an LED anyway
Now, you should have the AC cord wired, the DIM wires wired, and the meter lined in with the string to complete the circuit. Now plug the Meanwell AC in, and the 9V source, and since the SV2 is turned to the lowest setting, the LED's should fire, and will be brighter than what you have seen so far. Now, with the meter in line, the display will read some lower mA reading, which you can adjust but slowly turning the SV2 screw to the right. I don't know what mA you want to run at, but I used 13 LEDs a string and stopped at 975mA, for which 1000mA is the max for the XR-E.
Edit after your post
I type too slow.
Make sure you test the voltage to the dim wires and wire that meter in line though...you could either be in long or short term trouble if you don't.
Edited by dcmix5, 26 August 2010 - 06:50 PM.