AquaPod 12 Surface Film / Surface Levels

[Snaz]

So I get a lot of surface film and after reading through other threads with this problem one solution was to lower the water level. My problem is when I try to lower the water level it drops in the return chamber and not in the main tank or at least not noticeably.

 

I have a Hydor-NANO aimed at the surface and it creates a small patch of clear but if I direct it any higher the water would shoot out of the tank.

 

Any thoughts on lowering the water level or cleaning up the dirty surface film? Thank you,

 

Snaz.

[MiddReef]

What you really want to do is to raise the display water level somehow so that water is only dropping into the back chambers from the very surface, not the top few inches. To do this, you need to fabricate a weir or find some other way to block the top overflow grating. The aquapod should have arrived with a few plastic weirs, make sure that you've slid them into place and blocked all of the overflow vents as much as you can. Then, make some measurements, and find some thin bit of plastic (an old CD case works well) that you can cut to size, and slide that in the very top. If you can ensure that only the top few centimeters of the overflow teeth are allowing water to pass over, you should see a reduction in that dusty film. When you do this, the water level in the back chamber will drop, so make sure you have enough in there to cover heaters etc. When you need to reach in the tank, you can just slide that new weir out, allow the back chambers to fill, and then reach in without overflowing the display. Good luck!

[bagoegg]

What you really want to do is to raise the display water level somehow so that water is only dropping into the back chambers from the very surface, not the top few inches. To do this, you need to fabricate a weir or find some other way to block the top overflow grating. The aquapod should have arrived with a few plastic weirs, make sure that you've slid them into place and blocked all of the overflow vents as much as you can. Then, make some measurements, and find some thin bit of plastic (an old CD case works well) that you can cut to size, and slide that in the very top. If you can ensure that only the top few centimeters of the overflow teeth are allowing water to pass over, you should see a reduction in that dusty film. When you do this, the water level in the back chamber will drop, so make sure you have enough in there to cover heaters etc. When you need to reach in the tank, you can just slide that new weir out, allow the back chambers to fill, and then reach in without overflowing the display. Good luck!

 

+1

[Snaz]

What you really want to do is to raise the display water level somehow so that water is only dropping into the back chambers from the very surface, not the top few inches. To do this, you need to fabricate a weir or find some other way to block the top overflow grating. The aquapod should have arrived with a few plastic weirs, make sure that you've slid them into place and blocked all of the overflow vents as much as you can. Then, make some measurements, and find some thin bit of plastic (an old CD case works well) that you can cut to size, and slide that in the very top. If you can ensure that only the top few centimeters of the overflow teeth are allowing water to pass over, you should see a reduction in that dusty film. When you do this, the water level in the back chamber will drop, so make sure you have enough in there to cover heaters etc. When you need to reach in the tank, you can just slide that new weir out, allow the back chambers to fill, and then reach in without overflowing the display. Good luck!

 

Ahh that makes it all clear, thank you for the good description. I bought the AP12 second hand and I am finding a few parts are missing, the extra weirs being one I guess. I have used the CD case mod to block the submerged inlets so I guess it is time to break out the dremel again! God I love that tool.

 

Cheers

 

Snaz.

[Phixion]

FYI, only the 24g model came with adjustable weirs. The 12g just has intake slates that are always open. The CD case trick is really the only quick way to solve that issue. I did the same with my AP12g I used to have.

[Snaz]

Yup CD case mod worked a charm, surface is clean and reflective. I just need to sort out the detrius floating around.

 

Snaz

[appsgang43]

What you really want to do is to raise the display water level somehow so that water is only dropping into the back chambers from the very surface, not the top few inches. To do this, you need to fabricate a weir or find some other way to block the top overflow grating. The aquapod should have arrived with a few plastic weirs, make sure that you've slid them into place and blocked all of the overflow vents as much as you can. Then, make some measurements, and find some thin bit of plastic (an old CD case works well) that you can cut to size, and slide that in the very top. If you can ensure that only the top few centimeters of the overflow teeth are allowing water to pass over, you should see a reduction in that dusty film. When you do this, the water level in the back chamber will drop, so make sure you have enough in there to cover heaters etc. When you need to reach in the tank, you can just slide that new weir out, allow the back chambers to fill, and then reach in without overflowing the display. Good luck!

I also have an AP12 with same film. I do not remember getting any weirs? in my box. What else could I use?

 

FYI, only the 24g model came with adjustable weirs. The 12g just has intake slates that are always open. The CD case trick is really the only quick way to solve that issue. I did the same with my AP12g I used to have.

Guess I should have read further.

 

Thanks

[Phixion]

No prob, just wanted to help clear that up.

[MiddReef]

Do'h! Thanks for the clarification Phixion...guess that's what I get for assuming Current would put the same things in each box...