Awoken's IM Fusion 20 Mixed

[Awoken]

Hi,

I'm gonna use this thread to keep track of this setup's progression.

 

 

Tank: IM Fusion 20g

 

Stand: IM Fusion 20

 

Live Rock: Pukani Base Rock (~12 lbs)

 

Live Sand: Carib Sea Arag-Alive Special Grade Reef Sand (~1")

 

Left Intake Chamber:

InTank Media Basket

Floss

Purigen

Chemipure

 

Right Intake Chamber:

InTank Media Basket

Floss

X-Port No3

X-Port Po4

 

Left Chamber 2:

Cobalt Aquatics Neo-Therm 100 watt

IM MiniMax Reactor

 

Right Chamber 2:

InTank Fuge, Cheato, JBJ Nano Glo

Cobalt Aquatics Neo-Therm 100 watt

 

Middle Chamber:

Sicce Silent .5 (185 gph) x2

TUNZE Osimator Nano

TUNZE DOC Skimmer 9001

 

Light:

AI Prime x2

 

Power/Controller:

GFCI Outlet Adapter

ADJ 8 Channel Power Center

Reef Keeper Lite

 

Initial Setup:

 

Back Chambers:

 

3 Months:

 

Zoa Frags:

 

Little Longnose Hawk sitting on Big Nerite:

 

Firefish & Royal Gramma:

 

Inverts I had to give away:

 

 

Thanks for looking.

(sorry about the quality of my pics)

 

Edit:

Hopefully this thread can help someone, somewhere with there setup.

All questions, comments, concerns are welcome.

[Awoken]

Jump Proofing the Top (knock on wood):

 

I pushed the stock cover all the way forward and to the right. This leaves a decent size gap in the back and left side.

I covered the back with black egg-crate, and wedged black egg-crate between the brackets on the left side.

 

Top View:

 

The Computer fans are plugged into the Reef Keeper. They can lower the temp by >10 degrees (Evaporation goes through the roof. At its peak it was evaporating 1 gallon every 2 days. Total water volume is about 14 gallons). Without the fans in the summer the tank temp can easily reach 86 degrees.

 

Egg-Crate "Wedge":

It might not look like it in the pics but, the wedge sits completely flush on the cover brackets.

 

There is still a small space on the right side between the cover and glass. The gap is the size of the bracket that holds the cover. I'm considering ordering a bunch of brackets from IM to fill in the gap. Having that many brackets would probably be annoying, so I'm on the fence about it.

 

You can see the IM Overflow "Guards" in the pics. I was finding Dwarf Ceriths in the back chambers, and was worried the firefish could squeeze through. I don't like how much they restrict flow but its better then snails getting into the pumps.

[tk-it-ez]

Looks good.

[Awoken]

Water Parameters/ Test Kits and Additives:

The water parameters I aim for are pretty standard:

Temp: 78 F

Reef Keeper Probe, Coralife Digital Thermometer (China knockoff).

The two thermometers are .5 degrees off from each other.

I trust the Reef Keeper probe more so I keep that at 78.0-78.2 F.

Salinity: 1.026

Refractometer...

Alk: 9 dKH

Hanna Alkalinity Checker, sometimes I use Salifert.

Alkalinity was the main parameter this system struggled to maintain.

This is the parameter I test/dose the most.

Ph: 8.2

Cheap Ph probe.

I rarely test Ph unless something looks wrong in the tank, and I have checked everything else.

Calcium: 420 ppm

I use whatever test kit is cheapest. I prefer test kits that count drops over color chart comparison.

Because of those reasons I'm currently using API. Its a mixed reef so I'm ok with the accuracy of the test.

The calcium on this system is always between 420-440 ppm.

Magnesium: 1300 ppm

Salifert. I'm not crazy about the steps or the color change of this kit.

I will probably switch when this one runs out. Any recommendations?

I very rarely need to dose Magnesium.

Phosphate: .01-.03 ppm

Hanna Phosphorus Ultra Low Range Checker.

Nitrate: .1-.5 ppm

Salifert.

Observing the Ricordeas can tell me if the Nitrates are too low (that only happens in this system if I neglect several feedings)

I'm satisfied atm with the balance between my current feeding routine and weekly water changes.

Chemistry:

Salt:

D-D H2Ocean Magnesium Pro PLUS Salt Mix

I've been happy with this salt mix. I like the Alk, Cal, Mag numbers I've been getting.

Once in awhile it will leave a brown residue in the mixing container. That might be because I add the salt too quickly. Instead of say 1/2 a cup at a time.

Never had a problem with residue in the tank.

Dosing The Big 3:

Alkalin8.3-P

Calcion-P

Magnesion-P

Kalk +2 in the Auto Top Off Reservoir

(Brightwell's bicarbonate and calcium chloride don't work any better then anyone elses imo. I guess its the cool pictures on the labels... )

Bacteria:

I usually add some kind of bacteria product after a water change.

When I finish the bottle I switch to a different product.

I have used: BIO-Spira, Microbacter7, and most of DrTims Bacteria products.

Currently I'm using DrTims Waste-Away. (1/2 dosage)

(Disclaimer: I don't know what exactly is in the bottles, there is no test kit to measure bacteria, and I don't usually recommend adding anything to an aquarium you don't test for)

Some people say DrTims products are snake oil, some swear by it. The only thing I can say for sure is my coral/polyps love it.

Other:

Prime

The only other thing I add is Seachem Prime after a water change.

Fish Food/Nutrition:

New Life Spectrum Pellets

Lots of different frozen foods, usually soaked in one of the following:

AminOmega

Garlic Xtreme

VitaChem

Coral Food/Nutrition:

Coral Frenzy/Reef Chili (usually soaked in Restor)

Reef Nutrition: Arcti Pods

Frozen: Mysis, Brine Shrimp, Cyclops

CoralAmino

Of the Zoa's I currently have, Sunny D's noticeably eat the most. (just throwing that out their)

- Thanks for looking.

[Michelos]

Great buld..love the rock!..follow.

[Awoken]

Great buld..love the rock!..follow.

 

Thanks!

BRS really hooked me up with that rock.

I chiseled a few inches off of the back to make it flat, and a few inches off of the bottom to make it stand up straight.

I was planning to break it up more but, it fit so perfectly and it was so nice imo as one big piece, I decided to leave it as is. It really took the "head ache" out of aquascaping. Although, I'm not sure what I want to do with the right side of the tank as far as aquascaping goes.

 

People have reported problems with Pukani leaching phosphates, I haven't had any problems like that with it. I did "cure" it for 3 weeks in saltwater before putting it into the tank. There was "stuff" decaying on it that I pulled off.

[uwdanno]

welcome to the club. Join our page!

 

http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/365302-fusion-20-gal-club/

[Awoken]

welcome to the club. Join our page!

 

http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/365302-fusion-20-gal-club/

 

Thanks! Okie Dokie!

 

I'm not at all satisfied with the current display but it's all about progression at this point I suppose.

 

Your tank is awesome! Congrats on the house, that is a basement of dreams!

Why didn't you upgrade your tank size? j/k

I had a similar problem with waste collecting in the back chambers. The problem for me was, (for those that don't know or are considering getting this aquarium; the middle chamber runs underneath the outer chambers) I had A LOT of detritus collecting underneath the intake chambers. I have so much equipment in the middle chamber it was really difficult to get a siphon or turkey baster all the way in their to get the crud out.

 

I will be moving next month. So, if you have any tips to make moving the tank "smoother", I would love to hear them. In fact, I think my next post in this thread will be about planning the move.

 

 

Superman Mushroom:

[Sk8n Reefer]

Tanks coming along well! Gonna be a beautiful display ?

[Awoken]

I'm going to be moving next month, so I will use this post to make a plan to facilitate a flawless aquarium move!

 

If there is one thing reefers know how to do it is plan, plan, plan (obsess)...and then impulse buy a $150 piece of coral...

 

The downside is, this will no longer be the view from my bed and living room:

 

This mornings sunrise:

 

Depending on the time of year, the aquarium gets 1-3 hours of direct (filtered) sunrise sunlight.

The corals appreciate it imo.

 

 

The upside is, this has been sitting in my parents basement for over 15 years, and will be making the move with me:

 

I had a sweet fish room back in the day.

 

 

Anyway, back on topic:

 

To Do List:

1) Add MarinePure CerMedia to back chamber ASAP

I'm going to take the move as an opportunity to re-aquascape/chisel the rock down to something of a more appropriate scale. So, between the move and chiseling most of the bacteria will probably die off.

 

2) Buy new sand. (TE Reef Flakes?)

I don't like transferring more then a scoop of old sand.

 

3) Go to LFS and ask for a styrofoam shipping box(s) and bags.

The move is only about a 30 minute drive so I figure this is the best way to transport the 4 fish, cleaner shrimp, snails?

 

 

Plan:

1) DO NOT buy any new livestock!

2) Figure out where the tank is going to be placed. Make sure their are outlets and tools for leveling the floor. (level, shims)

 

That's all I have atm. If anyone has tips and tricks for moving please feel free to chime in.

Specifically, what is the best way to transport the corals, and how to protect the tank?

 

 

- Thanks