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Oceanarium Imaginarium 80's Slurricane Wonderventure


Deckoz2302

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I still keep thinking that it's just a metric shitton of light for a shallow tank. I calculated mine out to like 320w or something, and mine seems high!

Brad's philosophy:

 

If a little is good, a shiit load is much better. Remember three MP10's in like 8 gal of water. :)

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Brad's philosophy:

If a little is good, a shiit load is much better. Remember three MP10's in like 8 gal of water. :)

 

Lol yup. Think about it. We talk about par and Lux. My tank puts out 308 par dead center in the sand bed. Or 5762 lux. I walk outside and the lux photometer maxes out at 140,000 lux then errors out.

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jedimasterben

Lol yup. Think about it. We talk about par and Lux. My tank puts out 308 par dead center in the sand bed. Or 5762 lux. I walk outside and the lux photometer maxes out at 140,000 lux then errors out.

308 on a sandbed is pretty wicked. Mine should be 100-150 by my calculations. I've been thinking of raising my maxima clams up basically to the water line and see what they do. That should bring PAR up to 500 or so, more directly up under the clusters of LEDs.

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308 on a sandbed is pretty wicked. Mine should be 100-150 by my calculations. I've been thinking of raising my maxima clams up basically to the water line and see what they do. That should bring PAR up to 500 or so, more directly up under the clusters of LEDs.

 

Sexy things will happen with high PAR

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Not with everything, but most things.

Parameters have alot to do with it as well. Mostly trace and organic. Higher light means higher rates of photosynthesis and calcification. Typically you'll see bleaching because the higher calcification rates use up trace which arent replenished. And in order to calcifiy the coral needs carbs/calories aka energy to do this. Zoox produces the energy mecessary through nutrient absorpsion and photosynthesis. You starve the zoox it bleaches because it cannot protect itself from the radiation. You bleach the zoox the coral cant protect itself from radiation either. Coral then dies back. So solution is maintain constant feeding or higher feeding with more frequent water changes or dosing to replace the trace elements as well. This will keep enough food available for the entire process.

 

Basically if you heighten the feed and the light you can overpopulate the zoox causing the coral to brown instead of bleach because healthier zooxs can protect itself and the coral better from radiation. Browning is not bad it is a sign of accelerated growth. But you can find a happy medium. Take for example my whote frogspawn in the picture I posted from the past. See how its brown and white? Its overpopulated with zoox. But that frogspawn has also gone from 8 heads to 27 heads in 13 months. Under actinics you don't notice the brown as the florescence of the coral shines through because the trace elements have been kept in the proper ratios for the colors that rely on those elements to florence off of certain light spectrums

 

What about new additions? They bleach all the time? Do like we always do and start them in low light. Typically its because the zoox population doesn't match the relative numbers required to protect itself in your system as it was under a weaker light that required a lower population to protect itself. So build it up

 

 

If anyone calls bullshit. Look at what happens to trees when seasons change. It gets cold outside and pores of the roots close limiting nutrient uptake. Sun light levels are lower. Growth decreases. Gets warn outside pores in roots open up allowing higher nutrient absorbtion rates as well as longer stronger photo periods lead to increased growrh. Same thing except the coral is under water and there are no roots but you can imagine the water to be the soil that carries the neccessities for life and growth and this process relies on osmotic absorption.

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jedimasterben

Parameters have alot to do with it as well. Mostly trace and organic. Higher light means higher rates of photosynthesis and calcification. Typically you'll see bleaching because the higher calcification rates use up trace which arent replenished. And in order to calcifiy the coral needs carbs/calories aka energy to do this. Zoox produces the energy mecessary through nutrient absorpsion and photosynthesis. You starve the zoox it bleaches because it cannot protect itself from the radiation. You bleach the zoox the coral cant protect itself from radiation either. Coral then dies back. So solution is maintain constant feeding or higher feeding with more frequent water changes or dosing to replace the trace elements as well. This will keep enough food available for the entire process.

 

Basically if you heighten the feed and the light you can overpopulate the zoox causing the coral to brown instead of bleach because healthier zooxs can protect itself and the coral better from radiation. Browning is not bad it is a sign of accelerated growth. But you can find a happy medium. Take for example my whote frogspawn in the picture I posted from the past. See how its brown and white? Its overpopulated with zoox. But that frogspawn has also gone from 8 heads to 27 heads in 13 months. Under actinics you don't notice the brown as the florescence of the coral shines through because the trace elements have been kept in the proper ratios for the colors that rely on those elements to florence off of certain light spectrums

 

What about new additions? They bleach all the time? Do like we always do and start them in low light. Typically its because the zoox population doesn't match the relative numbers required to protect itself in your system as it was under a weaker light that required a lower population to protect itself. So build it up

 

 

If anyone calls bullshit. Look at what happens to trees when seasons change. It gets cold outside and pores of the roots close limiting nutrient uptake. Sun light levels are lower. Growth decreases. Gets warn outside pores in roots open up allowing higher nutrient absorbtion rates as well as longer stronger photo periods lead to increased growrh. Same thing except the coral is under water and there are no roots but you can imagine the water to be the soil that carries the neccessities for life and growth and this process relies on osmotic absorption.

I know all of that, you said all that a long while ago ;) - what I meant is that some corals are simply unable to adapt to high light levels. Luckily, since you can run LEDs like that for only a short time during the day, more stuff should be ok. I've got my rasta zoas, which people all the time say 'low light, low light, they'll melt' about 6" off the substrate up under an LED cluster, which should be giving about 300 PAR in that spot just from the RB chips. My LEDs are on a slope schedule, though, and they stay at 100% for a while, but my white LEDs are turned down pretty far.

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I know all of that, you said all that a long while ago ;) - what I meant is that some corals are simply unable to adapt to high light levels. Luckily, since you can run LEDs like that for only a short time during the day, more stuff should be ok. I've got my rasta zoas, which people all the time say 'low light, low light, they'll melt' about 6" off the substrate up under an LED cluster, which should be giving about 300 PAR in that spot just from the RB chips. My LEDs are on a slope schedule, though, and they stay at 100% for a while, but my white LEDs are turned down pretty far.

 

That wasnt really directed toward you man. Just a genralized theory I reef by figyre I would add some personality to the thread haha. We both know you know what your doing :P LEDMASTERBEN

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jedimasterben

That wasnt really directed toward you man. Just a genralized theory I reef by figyre I would add some personality to the thread haha. We both know you know what your doing :P LEDMASTERBEN

I know :P

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The cheato tumbler looks good!! How high will the water level be?? And do you plan to place a powerhead in it?

Thanks! I havent decided if I am going to put a power head in it yet. I was going to use a korialla 240 I have laying around. Both fuges are powered by a mag drive 7 at 1 ft head height basically so 600gph between them both. Im thinking I will be using a korialla in both. And then make a 3 way t so I can add a carbon reactor to bring it down to 200gph each to not overload the overflows...and also to polish out pigments

 

Water level will be at 16.5-17 inches from the looks of it I re agganged the drain pipe in it so the air gap doesnt block the inlet so I can use a locline nozzle for the input too

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krackerjacksna

If you don't mind, I would like to copy it for my next setup, I love the idea cause I hate the look of cheato but want a display fuge.

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If you don't mind, I would like to copy it for my next setup, I love the idea cause I hate the look of cheato but want a display fuge.

 

Dude go right ahead! Lol thats basically what I waz going for...separate the cheato so I can make a display fuge but still have the cheato to do work lol.

 

Here is an ebay link to all 4 sizes

 

AR-PRO Add on Refugium/Mud Filter

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Hmmm Tennenti Tang? Or no tang.. that is tye question

If you can have a tang in that tank...go for it!!!!! I need to look up what a Tennenti looks like.

 

Wow...what a beauty!!!!

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I don't know if Avast stuff is any good, but it sure looks good.

 

Oh they are good...real good :)

20130208_170100_zpsec542cec.jpg

 

If you can have a tang in that tank...go for it!!!!! I need to look up what a Tennenti looks like. Wow...what a beauty!!!!

 

Oh yea I want one haha.. tennenti are so pretty

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jedimasterben

From what I hear, those dudes get big and are kinda mean. I'm going with a powder brown and kole, myself. Powder brown is the most passive surgeon out there, and the kole grazes on different types of algae and have always been timid for me, so I don't expect them to fight.

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Tennenti are very passive which is why I want one from what I've seen. but tangs should always be added last. Because they're big babies lol

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Jedi did you use the stock bulkheads with barbs or did you get slip/slip bulkheads?

 

I have both. But I cant decide how I wanna setup the sump. The sum faces front to back of the stand. I cant decide wether I want the drain up front or in the back.

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More stuff needs to show up and I still gotta drive to Maryland to pick up stuff outta storage...hmm mainly the sump and an eshopps nano overflow for the fuge

 

20130209_100326_zps4e142716.jpg20130209_100401_zpsd8ee54ad.jpg

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jedimasterben

Jedi did you use the stock bulkheads with barbs or did you get slip/slip bulkheads?

I'm using the stock bulkheads for now, but I have new bulkheads for everything now so that I can plumb in some disconnects and ball valves and such.

More stuff needs to show up and I still gotta drive to Maryland to pick up stuff outta storage...hmm mainly the sump and an eshopps nano overflow for the fuge

Then get driving, damnit! :lol:
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I'm using the stock bulkheads for now, but I have new bulkheads for everything now so that I can plumb in some disconnects and ball valves and such. Then get driving, damnit! :lol:

 

Word... I went out and for a bunch of braided nylon and been going to town with a heat gun to bend it all to shape...ugh lol

 

20130209_171326_zps3da9fb74.jpg

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