Osmolator Nano for 20g long.

[LarryMoeCurly]

I am planning sort of an overhaul of my 20 gallon long. I am currently considering an ATO system since I am away at school for weeks at a time and rely on my parents to top off the tank.

 

BRS has the Tunze osmolator nano (3152) for $105, it has no reviews. I searched google, youtube, and here and found surprisingly little info (perhaps because it is new). I found a few instances of people using them for picos, but info for nano's is sparse (although it is called the "nano"). BRS states it is rated for 50g or less.

 

Do you think this Osmolator nano is appropriate for a 20g long? I have no sump or fuge, so the float switch and return would be in the display, unless I somehow reconfigure the aquaclear.

Is it overpriced in your opinion?

Those that have the nano version, are you satisfied?

 

As always, any input or advice is much appreciated.

 

EDIT: Please read post #8. Thanks.

[Julian_blnc]

I am planning sort of an overhaul of my 20 gallon long. I am currently considering an ATO system since I am away at school for weeks at a time and rely on my parents to top off the tank.

 

BRS has the Tunze osmolator nano (3152) for $105, it has no reviews. I searched google, youtube, and here and found surprisingly little info (perhaps because it is new). I found a few instances of people using them for picos, but info for nano's is sparse (although it is called the "nano").

 

Do you think this Osmolator nano is appropriate for a 20g long? I have no sump or fuge, so the float switch and return would be in the display, unless I somehow reconfigure the aquaclear.

Is it overpriced in your opinion?

Those that have the nano version, are you satisfied?

 

Since this is my first experience with an ATO, I just want to be sure it is as simple as it seems. Just a reservior of H20 next to the tank (maybe 2 or 3 gallons) and a pump that goes inside with a return to the tank? No fancy plumbing or anything, right? I watched a youtube video and it appears pretty simple.

 

As always, any input or advice is much appreciated.

In order to use it in the aqua clear, you wound need to not use the pump and use a U tube or, possibly mod the intake tube.

I wouldnt do it because there is to much room for error and then you have your ato, pump in ro water, screw with your saliniity and then bam crashed tank.

 

I think the tunze would be fine for your tank. there is a thread on here about the tunze from a few weeks ago, might show up with a search

[LarryMoeCurly]

I guess I'll abandon the AC idea, I didn't have much hope for it anyway. I just want to limit clutter, I have plenty already. It seems like the nano doesn't add too much to the display though.

 

I found this thread when I was searching, but she is talking about a 2 gallon tank. I would like to hear from someone who has used it on a larger tank, if there is anyone.

[shaner014]

I was between this and the elos osmocontroller. I decided to spend the extra dough and am very pleased with the elos! Super easy to setup, and has worked perfect since the start. Only negative is that you have to buy return tubing. I got som black vinyl from Home Depot. The sensor and return are in my display, but barely noticeable.

 

My .02

 

AC70 by chubbyreefer, on Flickr

 

Sensor is mounted to side of AC and return runs up the light tree and dumps in to the return on the AC

[LarryMoeCurly]

Thanks for the suggestion, but I am not looking to spend that much. Also, I want something that is complete and requires no additional parts or purchases.

 

So is your float sensor mounted in the tank or in the AC? What do you mean by side of the AC? Sorry for the confusion, it is a little hard to tell in your pic.

 

I found this thread also. They basically concluded that it is solid, safe and won't flood everything, but the price may be a little high.

[shaner014]

Sensor is mounted to the side, measures display level

[Lawnman]

I have the Tunze nano ATO and I love the freaking thing.

[LarryMoeCurly]

I am reviving this thread because a while back Begow said that he had a hard time getting the nano to work on a rimmed 20g long (what I have). i think it had something to do with the level of the float switch. He did not find a way to work around it, as far as I know. Has anyone else had this issue? Is there a work around? Keep in mind that I do not have a sump, so everything (float switch, return) would be in the display. Thanks.

[LarryMoeCurly]

Any insight on this issue? It's a fairly specific problem so perhaps not many have experienced it.

[Nanofreak79]

I have one, and yes on a rimmed tank its not going to work the best. Its basically just a float, float guard and that's it. The top of the float switch and wiring etc. will most likely get in your way. I'm using in a rear chamber of a pico mantaray, and use a tunze osmolater in a sump for my other tank.

[reefcowboy]

Larrymoecurly,

 

Great job making the right steps towards a successful tank...I agree an osmolator is key as salinity variance will not allow you to keep sps...I would consider doing a sump....you will need it soon..trust me. Not having a sump and getting good equipment is like equipping a crappy car with a great sound system....grab a cheap 5 gal tank, throw in a return pump in it and you are done.... Having your top off in an AC or anything besides a sump will be risky. Don't mean to sound like I know what you need, or should do...just advice of someone that has cut corners when building my tanks in the past...it will catch up to you and the $ lost in corals will make you mad. Good luck either way!

[LarryMoeCurly]

Well, I guess the osmolator is nixed then.

 

 

 

I have considered a sump, but there are a few barriers I would have to overcome.

 

The stand has a divider down the middle, so I do not see how a sump could fit in there.

The tank is not drilled.

I know nothing of sumps.

I am not good at DIY at all.

I am at school for weeks at a time, so if there as an issue (power outage, flood, etc.), I would not be home to deal with it.

 

I want a sump; I agree that it would make things easier and declutter the display. I'm just a little overwhelmed by the idea.

[reefcowboy]

No big deal, all you need is an overflow box, a hose that feeds the sump and a return pump. If you need help with the pump, you have tons of opinions here on what should be ok. Not trying to be a wise ass, but simply said the overflow will bring down the same amount of h2o to the sump the return pump sends up. That's it. If you are not home, no issues at all. As far as the stand goes, seems like maybe you should get one that allows you to do a sump. Once you get a sump and see how simple the idea is and the benefits, you will be glad you tried.

[LarryMoeCurly]

That would require transferring the tank to a new stand. I don't think I want to try that, seems risky. Even if I removed most of the water, I feel like it would likely not be successful.

 

I appreciate all of the help BTW.

[Mstefa1]

Don't have the nano but the full osmolator on my Aquapod which is rimmed. Also ordered the same osmolator for my new PicO.

[LarryMoeCurly]

This?

 

I thought $100 was high for the nano; the "full" model is double, that's a little ridiculous IMO.

That's more than I would like to spend. Thanks for the suggestion though.

[ronl]

The problem with the Tunze Osmolator Nano on a small rimmed tank is that the water level will be about 3/4" below the top of the magnet mount that holds the float switch. I have a standard 10 gal Perfecto tank and the bottom of the plastic trim is only about 3/8" below the inside plastic lip. So the water level would be about 3/8" below the bottom of the plastic trim. I don't like to see the water line below the trim, so I built an acrylic housing that hangs on the side of the tank and allows the magnet to sit higher so the water line is hidden by the plastic trim. I will be moving to a 30 gal rimless with a sump this summer, so this is just a temporary fix.

 

 

I don't have a 20L, but I do have an old 20H in my basement and the bottom of the plastic trim is 13/16" below the inside lip. So the Osmolator Nano would work on that tank without the water line being visible below the plastic trim. If the trim on the 20L is the same size it should work for the 20L as well.

 

 

Hope this helps,

Ron

[Mstefa1]

This?

 

I thought $100 was high for the nano; the "full" model is double, that's a little ridiculous IMO.

That's more than I would like to spend. Thanks for the suggestion though.

 

You get what you pay for and man topping off was such a nasty chore so It was so worth spending the money. And got himself couldn't overflow my tank with my Tunze in command. Even though the nano is still backed by Tunze you don't have the optical sensor or the secondary backup float switch.

[ronl]

The backup on the nano version is that it is programmed to shut the pump off after 1.8 minutes in the event that the float switch sticks. I don't have a full size Osmolator, so I don't know if it also has this feature as an extra backup. Love my nano so far.

[LarryMoeCurly]

The problem with the Tunze Osmolator Nano on a small rimmed tank is that the water level will be about 3/4" below the top of the magnet mount that holds the float switch. I have a standard 10 gal Perfecto tank and the bottom of the plastic trim is only about 3/8" below the inside plastic lip. So the water level would be about 3/8" below the bottom of the plastic trim. I don't like to see the water line below the trim, so I built an acrylic housing that hangs on the side of the tank and allows the magnet to sit higher so the water line is hidden by the plastic trim. I will be moving to a 30 gal rimless with a sump this summer, so this is just a temporary fix.

 

 

I don't have a 20L, but I do have an old 20H in my basement and the bottom of the plastic trim is 13/16" below the inside lip. So the Osmolator Nano would work on that tank without the water line being visible below the plastic trim. If the trim on the 20L is the same size it should work for the 20L as well.

 

 

Hope this helps,

Ron

 

Thanks for the help. I think I understand what you're saying. I'll have to measure the trim and see how far down it goes with regard to the inside plastic lip. If it is more than 3/4", then I'm good I guess. As I said before, I only raise the issue because of the problems Begow had, and I far as I know he did not find a solution. (BTW, he had a rimmed 20g long)

 

Also, just so we're clear, the the float switch would be in the display and the output would be in the display, uless I can rig something so that the output could go in the HOB filter.

 

Again, thanks for the help.

[ronl]

LarryMoeCurly,

 

I took a picture of what I built as a workaround for my 10 gal. It doesn't look pretty, but its get the job done and this tank is in my utility room so nobody sees it except me. Plus I will be upgrading this summer to a 30 gal with a sump, so this is only temporary.

 

In the pic, you can see that I built a box that hangs inside the tank and the front panel of the box is higher than the other sides so that the ATO can sit higher than if it was attached to the glass under the inside lip of the plastic trim. The outside magnet can go in the water, so I could have made a less obtrusive S-shaped bracket instead of a box to keep the magnet dry. But I had the acrylic already, so I just made the box.

 

I just drained some water out of my tank tonight to see exactly where the float switch would trigger the pump to come on. It came on when the water level was 7/8" below the top of the magnet. Once filled, the water level is 3/4" below the top of the magnet. So there is about a 1/8" range from low water level to high water level.

 

I drew a crude diagram of the plastic rim on my 10 gal and on my 20H. As you can see, on the 10 gal, the bottom of the inside lip is only 3/8" higher than the bottom of the outside trim. On my 20H, the space is 13/16". So if I had the Osmolator Nano on my 20H and I pushed the inside magnet all the way up to the bottom of the inside lip, my water level would drop to only 1/16" below the bottom of the outside trim before the ATO would kick on. On my 10 gal, the water level would drop to 7/16" below the outside trim, which was too low for my liking and the reason I built the box.

 

I looked at Begow's thread and he said that his needed 1.5 - 2" for the ATO to kick on. That is about 2x more than it takes for mine to kick on. The picture he posted of the float switch from below the water level looks about the same as mine. But the water level does not need to drop all the way to the bottom of the plastic snail guard (clear plastic housing around the float switch), it kicks on when the snail guard is about half submerged. So I don't know why his water level needs to drop so much compared to mine before the ATO kicks on.

 

In the ATO picture, you can see the water supply tube on the left, which is clamped to the rim of the tank. I don't see any reason why this could not be fed into your hang on filter if you don't want it feeding directly into the tank.

 

Hope this helps,

Ron

[LarryMoeCurly]

Ron, that was unbelievably thorough and helpful. Thank you very much.

 

I took some measurements,

black rim on the outside of the tank, from top to bottom: 1.25"

the inside lip, from top of black rim to bottom edge of lip: 3/8" (0.375")

 

To get these measurements I simply used a small tape measure, the first one "hooked" to the bottom of the rim, the second one "hooked" to the bottom of the lip (that's why I said "bottom edge of lip" above). I hope that makes sense.

 

1.25" - 0.375" = 0.875" = 14/16" = 7/8"

 

So according to my measurements, the distance from the lip to the bottom of the rim is 7/8".

 

Based on what you said previously that is about the same as your 20g high, and should accommodate the osmolator nano.

 

...and I pushed the inside magnet all the way up to the bottom of the inside lip...

This is my only remaining question (for now). If the inside magnet was all the way up to the lip (which is necessary to achieve the desired water height), then wouldn't the outside magnet be partially or totally on the outside black rim? Wouldn't this lead to the magnet being off kilter? Based on your picture, the magnets looks big enough that part of it would be on the glass and part of it would be on the rim.

 

Thanks again for being so helpful, it is much appreciated. I am probably making this more complicated than it needs to be, but that's nothing new.

[ronl]

Your comment about the outside magnet being off kilter is correct. If you go back to Begow's thread, I am pretty sure he had a pic that showed the outside magnet partially on the plastic trim and partially on the glass. The magnets are very strong, so I don't think you need to worry about them shifting due to being off kilter. Perhaps Begow's can tell you if that caused any issues for him.

 

My wife complains about me providing too much detail when I tell a story, but I like to be thorough. I'm glad the extra details are helpful.

[ronl]

Just an additional thought... maybe a thin piece of clear plastic cut to size could be placed under the portion of the outside magnet that is on the glass. If the plastic piece is the same thickness as the tank trim then the magnet will lie flat. If clear and cut to the size of the magnet, you wouldn't even see it.

[LarryMoeCurly]

Perhaps Begow's can tell you if that caused any issues for him.

 

Unfortunately (depending on who you ask), Begow is not longer with us, he became disgruntled and moved on.

 

Anyway, I looked at his thread and I see what you're referring to. It looks like the magnet would hold as is, but your suggestion about the plastic/acrylic is brilliant, so I'd probably try that. Also, it looks like the white part of the float switch is bent a little in one of his pictures. I don't know if it's supposed to be like that or if it would even affect anything. (Maybe it's just an optical illusion with the water.)

 

He said that he tried to cut part of the lip to get it to fit, it seems like this should work, if necessary. (Although it didn't work for him apparently.)

 

Perhaps I'll join one of the BRS group buys soon and finally get my ATO. (I plan on getting an RO/DI unit also.)

 

Once again, your assistance has been much appreciated.