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NanoTopia's ZEOvit 80L [ ]


NanoTopia

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Quick question for ya,

 

I am looking to get some dosing containers made for a future upgrade. Would you recommend separate dosing containers, or one 'set' that has individual openings? Like all side-by-side but attached to each other? I am thinking each section/container 5L in size so I wouldn't have to refill for a loooong time.

 

Is it all personal preference, or any reason why I should go either way? Just given your experience with the Vertex Libra Vessels.

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Quick question for ya,

 

I am looking to get some dosing containers made for a future upgrade. Would you recommend separate dosing containers, or one 'set' that has individual openings? Like all side-by-side but attached to each other? I am thinking each section/container 5L in size so I wouldn't have to refill for a loooong time.

 

Is it all personal preference, or any reason why I should go either way? Just given your experience with the Vertex Libra Vessels.

I guess it is personal preference Jordon, the elements do not always deplete at the same rate so if you want to rinse out a container it is easier to have separate containers. I would still go with separate containers in the future, for me it is best. Nothing really wrong with a "all in one" dosing unit, you have to be careful your ALK doesn't splash into your Ca or Mg (vice-versa), you will contaminate your mixtures.

 

I would not go with the Vertex Vessels at this time, I have not heard if they have corrected their bonding issues in the factory. I heard some of their new reactors leaked as well. Bubble Magus make some good dosing containers if you decide to go that route.

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I guess it is personal preference Jordon, the elements do not always deplete at the same rate so if you want to rinse out a container it is easier to have separate containers. I would still go with separate containers in the future, for me it is best. Nothing really wrong with a "all in one" dosing unit, you have to be careful your ALK doesn't splash into your Ca or Mg (vice-versa), you will contaminate your mixtures.

 

I would not go with the Vertex Vessels at this time, I have not heard if they have corrected their bonding issues in the factory. I heard some of their new reactors leaked as well. Bubble Magus make some good dosing containers if you decide to go that route.

 

Thanks for the info. I guess it makes more sense to have them separate. I also heard of other users experiencing issues with the Vertex, which is sad because they are usually known for their quality, and highly regarded. I was actually looking into those as well before you mentioned your issues, then upon further investigation discovered that being a 'regular' issue :/

 

Well, like you I am also somewhat of a perfectionist. I have to have everything matchy-matchy hah. That's why i'm going custom on this. I appreciate the info, thanks again :)

 

/un-hijak :wub:

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Updated growth sequence for the A.millepora, April 3 to May 29 2013.


8662828821_29e40ed1ab_n.jpg8662831379_88060a1573_n.jpg8662517397_cb7ffe1b82_n.jpg
8695704803_bee1d22059_n.jpg8720082841_bc9ce464c7_n.jpg8747068257_4b4faca37b_n.jpg8836295935_9de62c2ee5_n.jpg8880613808_ae1b4757a6_n.jpg

 

 

The camera picked up a little more purple colour in the last picture (8) than I saw with my eye, not sure why, it does appear a little less purple in colour.

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That's some growth!! Very cool pic sequence. Is this a lineaged frag? I seriously need to update my thread.....and soon :)

This was a small mini colony that almost died back when I had Aefw, The coral stopped growing for a good 8 month's, just nothing but brown, then one day poof :) I attribute it to Zeovit 100%.

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Decide on that next fish yet? Also, how do u get such good pics with LEDs???

I have been so busy with my new build that I haven't been looking for another fish. The way to get better pics with LED's is to correct the temperature balance, some times you have to save and do it twice or even three times. You want to see "white" as white, not bluish or yellowish. Don't touch colour correction, just temperature or white balance setting in post editing. Forget the camera itself, it can't deal with LED blue in any setting.

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jedimasterben

I have been so busy with my new build that I haven't been looking for another fish. The way to get better pics with LED's is to correct the temperature balance, some times you have to save and do it twice or even three times. You want to see "white" as white, not bluish or yellowish. Don't touch colour correction, just temperature or white balance setting in post editing. Forget the camera itself, it can't deal with LED blue in any setting.

You'd be surprised. The basic white balance settings on a good DSLR can handle blue LEDs pretty well. My sister's Canon T1i with Tamron lens set to the 4000k setting gets extremely close to the real look of my LED array, even if dipping the white LEDs down. Once I import into Lightroom, it corrects it even more and gets it nearly spot on, usually only takes a little bit of fiddling (and by that I mean changing the white balance setting to 'shade' in Lightroom, as that's about all I really know how to do :lol:) and it's good.

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Kfmmartin19
I have been so busy with my new build that I haven't been looking for another fish. The way to get better pics with LED's is to correct the temperature balance, some times you have to save and do it twice or even three times. You want to see "white" as white, not bluish or yellowish. Don't touch colour correction, just temperature or white balance setting in post editing. Forget the camera itself, it can't deal with LED blue in any setting.

What program do u use to edit?

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What program do u use to edit?

Since I generally only use temperature correction I fined the software that comes with a MAC (Preview, latest version) works well. I do have Photoshop for when I want to do something more.

 

You'd be surprised. The basic white balance settings on a good DSLR can handle blue LEDs pretty well. My sister's Canon T1i with Tamron lens set to the 4000k setting gets extremely close to the real look of my LED array, even if dipping the white LEDs down. Once I import into Lightroom, it corrects it even more and gets it nearly spot on, usually only takes a little bit of fiddling (and by that I mean changing the white balance setting to 'shade' in Lightroom, as that's about all I really know how to do :lol:) and it's good.

I use a D3000 and have the white balance set to AUTO, is there a better setting I should use? . AUTO delivers a predictable result with my LED's, something I can easily correct with basic software.

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jedimasterben

I use a D3000 and have the white balance set to AUTO, is there a better setting I should use? . AUTO delivers a predictable result with my LED's, something I can easily correct with basic software.

While setting it to a custom balance would be preferable (and using a little white card in the water to set it), I would take a picture of the same thing on each of the different white balance settings and see which one gets closest to reality. I wanna say mine is the 'shade' setting which approximates to 7000K (though my lighting is in the 12-14K range).

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Coral should have a green body throughout, green polyps, and blue/purple tips = Cali Tort.

 

And this one for my NEW ADA 30C build...

 

 

8796936151_1dae6659c6_z.jpg

 

When are you going to start selling these top off containers?
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Since I generally only use temperature correction I fined the software that comes with a MAC (Preview, latest version) works well. I do have Photoshop for when I want to do something more.

 

I use a D3000 and have the white balance set to AUTO, is there a better setting I should use? . AUTO delivers a predictable result with my LED's, something I can easily correct with basic software.

 

 

If you are shooting RAW, you are fine with leaving the white balance setting on "auto", as the adjustments will have no affect on the original image data.

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Christine, have you ever thought about making a video of this tank?

I will when I get a video camera, something better than an iPhone that is :)

 

When are you going to start selling these top off containers?

See below :)

 

If you are shooting RAW, you are fine with leaving the white balance setting on "auto", as the adjustments will have no affect on the original image data.

I did not know that, thanks :)

 

Because I very seriously want 2 of them.

The problem is they are just too expensive to make, and time consuming, then there would be shipping from Canada...

 

One ATO Reservoir

 

Do!Aqua Tank $50.00

Materials for lid $45.00

Labor 4-5 hours $100.00

Shipping crate $25.00

Shipping = insurance $40.00

Tax (13%) $33.80

 

Total $293.80

 

 

See where I'm going with this B)

 

I am sure China can make it for $11

 

But if your still interested let me know :P

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I think the nice thing about making a batch would be you don't need to ship the tanks! For instance, I can get an LFS here to order any type/quantity of Do!Aqua or ADA tanks. Get a top and a sticker and go to town! I understand your desire not to turn into a parts factory though :)

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What's that first one called?

I have heard it called: Aussie Dragon Soul Reverse Prism Favia

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