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NanoTopia's ZEOvit 80L [ ]


NanoTopia

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<ADL Snip>

You could reverse engineer the ADL, and I suspect you could DIY a float switch into the module, but why would you want to? I say that because the head module has an 8 pin connector that will let you connect up to 6 switches through that connector. You can either go out and buy a mini-din 8 connector and soldier your connections to it, or Apex sells a break out box.

 

I bought a minidin 8 connector when I did my float switches.

 

These are the guys I got my switches from: http://www.autotopoff.com/Floatswitches/

 

As for your programming. I would suggest forcing your sump return pump to the ON position if you have flooding in the sump area. Odds are your sump over flowed if anything I would think, or perhaps that's just my case.

 

I'm of two minds on the heater. Part of my says, I wouldn't want a splash of water turning off my heater, on the other hand, I don't want my heater being exposed to air and bursting.

 

Edit: The break out box is fairly expensive for what it is at 40$ in case you havne't seen it.

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You could reverse engineer the ADL, and I suspect you could DIY a float switch into the module, but why would you want to? I say that because the head module has an 8 pin connector that will let you connect up to 6 switches through that connector. You can either go out and buy a mini-din 8 connector and soldier your connections to it, or Apex sells a break out box.

 

I bought a minidin 8 connector when I did my float switches.

 

These are the guys I got my switches from: http://www.autotopoff.com/Floatswitches/

 

As for your programming. I would suggest forcing your sump return pump to the ON position if you have flooding in the sump area. Odds are your sump over flowed if anything I would think, or perhaps that's just my case.

 

I'm of two minds on the heater. Part of my says, I wouldn't want a splash of water turning off my heater, on the other hand, I don't want my heater being exposed to air and bursting.

 

Edit: The break out box is fairly expensive for what it is at 40$ in case you havne't seen it.

I just thought since my requirement for extra switches might be one or two it would be easier to use the ALD module rather than buy a breakout box. I haven't really decided what I want/need at the moment, but when I do I will give it a try with a RJ-45 connector to the ALD and see if it works. But you are right, a din8 connector would also work well. I keep forgetting about that connector.

 

Makes sense with the sump return pump, but if the sump was over flowing likely the return pump isn't working, either way makes no sense to turn it off :)

 

Thanks for the advice and link Veng,

 

Christine :)

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If you have the ADL switches and a multimeter in hand, test the resistance between each side of the circuit and the pins. If you find that there is zero resistance (<2 ohms) between one pin and the silver side, and the same is true on the other side, then you will probably be fine plugging in a switch in it's place. You could also send an e-mail to Apex about it, they should be pretty good about answering the question, and might even give you the pin out of the RJ45. Of course, you will then have to get the thick wires of a float switch into an RJ45 which will probably be more of a pain than soldering on a mini din 8, but to each their own.

 

 

Just to make sure it's clear, you don't need a breakout box, you just soldier the wires from the switch directly onto the mini din 8 and you're good.

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If you have the ADL switches and a multimeter in hand, test the resistance between each side of the circuit and the pins. If you find that there is zero resistance (<2 ohms) between one pin and the silver side, and the same is true on the other side, then you will probably be fine plugging in a switch in it's place. You could also send an e-mail to Apex about it, they should be pretty good about answering the question, and might even give you the pin out of the RJ45. Of course, you will then have to get the thick wires of a float switch into an RJ45 which will probably be more of a pain than soldering on a mini din 8, but to each their own.

 

 

Just to make sure it's clear, you don't need a breakout box, you just soldier the wires from the switch directly onto the mini din 8 and you're good.

Got it Veng! Where to get a Din8 connector like you spoke of?

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mini din 8. (not to be confused with a 4 or 6 pin or a full sized din connector)

 

I found mine at fry's. You could also order one from mouser (2$ + 5$ shipping). You won't find one at radio shack.

 

mouser link:

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Kycon/KMDAX-8P/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvf6myxbP4FpKv%2bWbcUkZWF5cc1sIsLxuE=

Thanks Veng :)

 

It'd be very interesting to see the Red Planet's reaction to B-Balance fingerscrossed ....... awaiting your results, so I can tinker. Still have a 500ml bottle lying around :D

 

WILL KEEP YOU POSTED

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WHOA, ACK! nightmare from hell! omgomgomg

Holly wires!!! How the heck you managed all those

Very nicely thank you. Have you seen Dr. Sanjay Joshi's fish room, you wanna talk wires...haha. Have a look at mine :)

 

I will admit I have a few things going on equipment wise, but it is clean and well thought out. When the power goes out you won't see me post a thread titled, "HELP POWER OUT - What do I do?????" Haha :) A lot of what you see is fail safe backup as well.

 

 

"The difference between utility and utility plus beauty is the difference between telephone wires and the spider web.

--Edwin Way Teale"

 

 

 

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WOW OMG ....

:)

 

+1

 

What do you use to make your schematics?

MAC pages :(

 

What do you use to make your incredible schematics, pass along your secrets please? :wub:

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I updated the wiring plan for those who like wires :)

 

 

8513021227_9beb8f97cf_z.jpg

 

I like wires and organization, it looks great. Are you sure you weren't systems engineer in another life.
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:)

 

MAC pages :(

 

What do you use to make your incredible schematics, pass along your secrets please? :wub:

 

That looks very good. I have never used Pages for Mac before, but after seeing your work, may give it a shot!

 

I used gool ol' Adobe Photoshop for mine. For the actual diagrams I created my tank in Google Sketchup, outputted as transparent PNG, and then did a color overlay of white, to make it appear as a blueprint :P I then used a preset action to create the "3D" folded paper look. It all took a bit of work, but I liked the end result :happy:

 

What wireless bridge do you use?

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That looks very good. I have never used Pages for Mac before, but after seeing your work, may give it a shot!

 

I used gool ol' Adobe Photoshop for mine. For the actual diagrams I created my tank in Google Sketchup, outputted as transparent PNG, and then did a color overlay of white, to make it appear as a blueprint :P I then used a preset action to create the "3D" folded paper look. It all took a bit of work, but I liked the end result :happy:

 

What wireless bridge do you use?

 

Thanks, looks like yours was quite a process but worth the effort. I have used Google SketchUp but found it difficult to work with. Thank you for divulging your secrets ;)
Wireless bridge:
8319953467_740ef15f18_n.jpg

 

Love that brown milli! Is it starting to show any signs of coloring up?

Thanks Mr. M, It's gotten a little lighter but not much change in colour, I'm starting to think it's a brown millepora by nature :P I am guessing if it changes it might go reddish in colour. I have started dosing KZ B-Balance which is supposed to help with reds, I see it working ever so slightly on my red planet now so I will cross my fingers fingerscrossed

 

if I ever need to rob a bank or hack facebook, I want Christine on my Oceans 11 team.

You know I am there :ninja:

 

I like wires and organization, it looks great. Are you sure you weren't systems engineer in another life.

Thanks Veng, I may have been, but I'm pretty sure I was a fish in my past life :lol:

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Have you looked into this : http://brightwellaquatics.com/products/borochromt.php ?

 

Thanks Mr. M, It's gotten a little lighter but not much change in colour, I'm starting to think it's a brown millepora by nature :P I am guessing if it changes it might go reddish in colour. I have started dosing KZ B-Balance which is supposed to help with reds, I see it working ever so slightly on my red planet now so I will cross my fingers fingerscrossed

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I haven't dosed boron before, I have tested for boron specifically with a Seachem Alkalinity Kit. It showed in range but later found out it was hard to test for in a Randy Holmes-Farley article I read. The article is 10 years old now and there may be some better kits out there that are more effective at singling out boron specifically, if you know of any off hand let me know. I prefer not to mess with boron since I can't effectively test for it. I know I dose quite a bit of things I can't test for (KZ Products) but I do use Brightwell's Alkalin8.3-P powder which is supposed to be balanced.

 

Most of my corals in the tank have been through quite a bit in the last few months, I take this into account that it will take some time to correct colours. The corals are healthy again (first step), and growing (second step), now I am slowly tweaking the system to produce some better colour (third step). :)

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I haven't dosed boron before, I have tested for boron specifically with a Seachem Alkalinity Kit. It showed in range but later found out it was hard to test for in a Randy Holmes-Farley article I read. The article is 10 years old now and there may be some better kits out there that are more effective at singling out boron specifically, if you know of any off hand let me know. I prefer not to mess with boron since I can't effectively test for it. I know I dose quite a bit of things I can't test for (KZ Products) but I do use Brightwell's Alkalin8.3-P powder which is supposed to be balanced.

 

Most of my corals in the tank have been through quite a bit in the last few months, I take this into account that it will take some time to correct colours. The corals are healthy again (first step), and growing (second step), now I am slowly tweaking the system to produce some better colour (third step). :)

 

Yes it is not the easiest element to test for but the test that seems to get the best reviews is the Salifert one and reviews by other hobbyists rate it highly and also point out that it is very accurate and measures to within 0.5 ppm levels and even though I have not used it myself I am told that in-between colors can be identified allowing you to determine whether you have say between 4.0 and 4.5 ppm, or a different value ... and as you probably read most of the boron in seawater is in the form of boric acid which when present in excess can affect bacterial mass, but is is said to aid in enhancing red coloration.

 

Now I seem to remember that Dana Riddle I believe wrote an article in enhancing red via your lighting and a quick look of my URL reference file brings this up : http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2003/11/aafeature (I do realize that this was written quite some time ago but recent articles seem to be harder and harder to find)

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Well since we are on the topic of the "Brown" millepora, thought I would post a picture of it after I mounted the mini colony on it's own rock today, to get it off the sand bed. I think it will get better flow now.

 

 

8529700636_61fcc2d607_z.jpg
On a sad note, my chromis is not doing too well. Think he may not make it. Don't know what it is, he just hangs out by my temp probe. I have had him for 2 years.
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