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Found 23 results

  1. I'm pretty new to all of this. I had freshwater tanks for a while, many years ago, but didn't really understand the hobby and I didn't take the time to learn. I've always wanted a salt water tank, but stayed away because I was afraid of the the time and money commitment. A friend of mine owns a pet store. For years he's been trying to get me into the hobby because I'm always hanging out at his shop looking at his saltwater stuff. In December he finally got me. He gave me a Coralife 29 biocube. Oh boy, I had no idea what I was in for. It's been just under 6 months and it has been a hell of roller coaster, both good and bad. There's a lot to recap in just 6 months, but I'll start with where I am now. Then I'll recap everything I can recall going through/doing along the way to this point. Hopefully others can make use of all of the things that have and have not worked well for me. Attached is what my tank looks like as of April 8, 2018. Hardware: Coralife biocube 29 Stock hood/lighting: CF daylight, Actinic Blue, Blue LED bar x2 Stock Pump Upgraded ultra quiet hood fans Hydor 425 & 240 powerheads EHEIM Jager 150W heater Filtration: stock bioballs, carbon filter cartidge, Chemipure Elite Blue biobag 2 digital electric outlet timers to control lights Livestock: 2-Picaso Clowns 1-Yellow Wrasse 1-Purple goby firefish 1-Redstripe cleaner shrimp 1-Sand sifting starfish 6-crabs (3-red, 3-blue) 2-Nessarius snails 3-Turbo snails 2-Trochus snails 4-Astrea snails 1-Zebra snail 1-Bumblebee snail Corals: Duncan Frogspawn Hammer Kenya tree Zoanthids Blue star polyps Hollywood stunner
  2. This is not a cute little 'all in one' aquarium, this is a Frankenstein, a diy monster that is going to offend some with its lack of interest in traditional reefing. This is a hands on, built not bought reef. Most of you won't respond or comment, it's expected, but you will look because you must, it's your nature. So here for your enjoyment (quiet, unresponsive enjoyment) is a reef tank that has undergone changes, that has evolved since the first post and is flourishing. Here is the beginning, if you can make it to the end you might find that you enjoy it instead of skipping to the end now and not understanding what you are looking at... ... So this is my current Pico... 2.5 gallons... (this is a crappy picture that I murdered even further with a photo editor...) 6/26 new tank fts 9/20 fts Fts 10/12 Fts 12/3 And things are starting to get cramped, when the Duncan is fully extended he really takes up a lot of space on his own, not that he cares. He's just like that, but is also my favorite coral in the tank. (he's also growing 2 (maybe 3) new heads. I also want to spread out the zoas, move the Kenya tree further away and put the xenias in their own area. The anthelia I mowed down already but know it will come back which is fine. So enough of the why, let's get to the point. The new tank is going to be 6.5 gallons. (it's gonna be huuuge). I'm currently working on the hood and stand. I will be using my sump and canister filter from the smaller tank still. It's a semi hex and it was a gift. The wood is rough cut cedar I had left from a gazebo I built for a customer. So here are a few things I'm planning to do differently this time, because I have been paying attention : Better flow! I mean way better, turbulent! alternating! flow flow flow! My entire scape will be mounted to a removable background to make it easier to add new corals, move corals, treat algae or pests (should they appear from thin air or awaken from hibernation). This will also allow me to dip the entire scape if the corals require it. I will be adding violet and turquoise leds to my lighting and switching out my 10k whites for neutral whites for a better blending of color and spectrum. Ok, so here are a few things I want to do but won't really know how they will work until I get it set up. I plan to have a set of return lines behind my Live rock scrap and a set up top facing down. These lines will be powered by separate pumps that will alternate via a wave maker. I'm hoping that will be much better for keeping detritus from settling. My canister filter will be a sort of closed loop set up. Two returns coming up from the bottom with heads/nozzles designed to sweep the bottom of the tank and the drain mounted in the bottom as well to (theoretically) catch any debris. I plan to hollow out two small pieces of rock to hide these nozzles. Will my green star polyps hate this constant flow? They will be spread out on the bottom of the tank. I still have a lot to do and decide on, like most things I will probably change my mind about a dozen times before it is all said and done. So this is the beginning, I post pictures as I go, maybe you will find it interesting or maybe you won't (boooo) if you have tried any of the things I've said please let me know how or if they worked out for you. Thanks (fingers crossed I don't just screw this up :p)
  3. lizzyann

    zoa garden

    finally have the little zoa garden of my dreams!
  4. My zoa's and Blue Star Polyps have both been receding for the past month or two, and I can't figure out why. In the pictures below you can see the change over time. The Blue Star polyps most notably have been closed up and receding for almost 2 months. The zoas are mostly open, but they have been receding, all be it more slowly, but still noticeably during the same time frame. I have a biocube 29 AIO. I use stock bioballs and carbon cartridge, with filter floss, and chemipure blue for filtration. I do weekly water changes (4g), replace my floss weekly, rinse the cartridge weekly replacing it every other week and rinse the chemipure weekly changing it every 3 months. Lighting hasn't changed, location of the corals hasn't changed. I've adjusted flow amount/direction without any result for them. I don't dose anything. The only significant issue I have had recently was in early July when the fake silicone anemone I had in the tank started breaking down. It was releasing some level of silicate into the water. All of the corals were unhappy. I was able to quickly correct it by adding Phosguard to my filtration for a week along with an extra mid-week water change. All of my LPS recovered within days, but the zoas and BSP have continued to decline. In talking to my LFS he suggested it could be an iodide deficiency. On his advice I dosed Kent Iodide for a week, 5 drops per day per the instructions, but there has been no noticeable change. I've researched both zoas and bsp/gsp and can't find anything definitive to try. The only noteworthy comment is that they like "dirtier" water. I have no idea what that means, and given how well all of LPS is doing, I'd don't want to do anything that would negatively affect them. Looking for any suggestions. Pictures below: Full tank as of now, before and after pics of each coral in question.
  5. So today is finally here, today I move from the original Pico to the new one. I figured I would start a new journal and detail it from now as well as go into more detail about the setup, what was built and what was bought. FTS 3/14/18 FTS 10/8/17 More to come... Set up consists of : -2 X 2.5 gallon aquariums (Total tank volume after rock and media displacement is roughly 3 gallons) -Roughly 5lbs of live rock -256gph pond pump with two outlets - one up top for surface tension, one lower for flow through middle of tank -Diy led, 4 blue, 6 royal blue, 4 warm white and 3 cool whites on 3 channels powered by laptop power supplies and dc motor dimmers. -LEDs are 3 w, 3v ordered off ebay, non branded -Tank was drilled with a dremel and Bulkheads are made from male and female pvc adapters (After tank was drilled and bulkheads were siliconed in I mixed and poured a two part epoxy resin about 1/4 inch thick to reinforce the glass and pcv) -Sump is a simple 2 chamber design, water flows through filter floss-chemipure-a box of MarinePure biofilter media-purigen-return pump -DIY ATO - Float switch connected to DC 12v relay which controls a 40gph pump in the reservoir -Temperature controller is a 5$ board bought off ebay, set temp and a fan will kick on when needed, it sits directly over the return side of the sump. Keeps the temperature between 79-81 Coral list: Hammer Candycane /trumpet Kenya tree Pink xenia Duncan GSP Clove polyp Purple gorgonian Orange rhodactis mushroom Green rhodactis mushroom yellow/green plate coral five kinds of palys - will update closeup pictures for help with identification eleven different types of zoas - will update closeup pictures for help with identification *when it comes to zoas and palys I have come to learn that most of them have made up names. My 'laser lemons' were actually purple people eaters... * Any questions about the setup, feel free to ask.
  6. I've been on the periphery of the hobby for over a year now. As soon as I stumbled into it I was hooked. The combination of science, art, and living pets inspired me deeply. I instantly went from not even knowing about the hobby to suddenly wanting to know everything! To make sure I didn't jump into anything to hastily I gave myself a solid year to seriously contemplate things and do my homework. I mean seriously doing my research, not just masturbating to coral porn. Build a 10g Nano Reef for JUST $275 Then a few months ago I saw a YouTube video from Marine Depot that was something like, "Build a Nano Reef for just $275." They built a bare-bones system with an IM Fusion 10 that would probably be fine for the easiest softies. I don't care for softies. I know everyone starts with them, but I'm just not even interested in bothering. My favorite corals are Montipora (digitata) and Acropora (vermiculata, tenuis). I like a lot of LPS too. Zoas are the closest thing to soft corals that I have any interest in, but even they would languish under their light. But this Marine Depot build got me thinking about getting off the fence. I loved the form factor of the Nuvo 10, since that would fit perfectly next to my desk. So let's do it right, and start by adding a zero to the budget. Build a 10g Nano Reef for JUST $2,750 I despise conspicuous consumption so please do not take me for some rich kid showing off. I'm a grown man who will make rational investments for personal edification. See that shit? I just used "edification" correctly in a sentence. Grown man! If I want to learn to keep SPS, I need to make the investment in keeping these critters alive and healthy. So forget all that piddly nonsense Marine Depot was trying to sling, here is the package I put together: Hardware Tank: IM Fusion Nano 10 Lighting: Kessil A80 (I was tempted by the Nanobox Lights popular here, but this needs to be a silent build!) Skimmer: IM Ghost Skimmer Return: Sicce Syncra Silent Main Powerheaad: Aqamai KPS Controller: Neptune Apex 2016 Hardware Regrets The IM SpinStream nozzle was hugely unnecessary in this tank with a powerhead. And ****ING LOUD! Hardware Extravagances I wrestled for a solid week on whether or not I should get the Apex 2016; or any of the much cheaper options. I think it is over-priced by about $300, and I hate getting bilked. I want to keep this all as stress-free as possible, so I ultimately decided it would be an insurance policy for the tank and a sleep aid for me. The ORP is probably the only thing on here I won't use. I'm comfortable with coding and was instantly coming up with my own schemes in the controller. I also really like the features in the upgraded EB832 powerbar. With such a small water volume I need to know the second something fails. I really want to keep this hobby as stress free as possible. First Month I'm primarily going to be documenting my experiences on my YouTube channel, but I'll use this thread for supplemental stuff. If you like what you see, please subscribe! I'm nearing 5,000 subs and want to hit that milestone! Let's find out if a newbie can just show up and pull off a SPS Nano Tank if he's done his homework! August 2017 Update: I finally got to add corals to the tank this month! There were a lot of ups and downs along the way, but I'm still engaged in the hobby! September 2017 Update: Despite having no fish in my fish tank, I had a very eventful September in reefing! This video also includes reviews for the Aqamai KPS powerhead (an affordable programmable powerhead) as well the Seneye Reef ammonia & pH monitor. October 2017 Update: Things are doing great in the tank this month! No coral deaths! I didn't even lose a single Zoa polyp! My parameters are all stabilizing nicely. In this month's video I complete my review for the Seneye Reef Monitor, and talk about how I supplement with Kalkwasser and Vodka. November Update It's happening! It's all finally coming together for me. I've got the water chemistry stabilized to the point that I think I can start adding Acros to the tank! January 2018: The tank has been going for 6 months, and has managed to keep fish alive for the last 2 of those! I'm now out of the woods yet though and continue to have some challenges keeping the water chemistry stable in this 10 Gallon Nano!
  7. Floundering_Around

    Something's wrong

    We've got some trouble in paradise. So as some background, my most recent water change was this Saturday, three days ago. Ca was at 440 and all other parameters were fine (don't have my own test kit so I got my water tested at the pet store when I went to get more saltwater. Waiting for a good one to go on sale). Before doing the water change, all of my new zoas were acting up (Radioactive dragon eye, eagle eye, and utter chaos). They were all closed up or half closed, not fully opened and pretty. At this point, all of them have been in my tank for about a month; the UC was always open and it was the RDEs and the EEs that were giving me problems. On the advice of another zoa keeper, those two got a peroxide dip. Nothing had happened in the tank other than a hermit crab knocking my Fat Head Den on top of my UC; even then it was still open though. Following the peroxide dip, my UC polyp starts acting up, Mind you, it was fine before and didn't receive a dip. Now after the water change on Saturday, UC still has not opened up and the polyp looks likes it regressing? At the same time, my Monti cap (which was also fine on Saturday during the water change) has started bleaching?! The Monti has also been in my tank for a month and was totally fine. Its mounted on a magnet so I have it at the surface of the water where the par is the highest. It's directly across from my wavemaker so it's getting good flow. And, I feed the tank a mix of benepets and Reef Chili so there is food in there small enough for it to eat. I've been checking for flatworms on both but I see none or any eggs. Any clue as to what's going on? I don't want to lose either of these corals!
  8. hey Guys was wonder if anyone has any thoughts of what is eating my zoas water parameters are perfect and my SPS, Duncans, hammer, plays, mushrooms are doing great but......weird things started to happen three weeks ago after i added a few zoo frags and a skunk cleaner shrimp there is something bothering my zoas, and they are not always fully open as they used to be in one colony noticed one skirt was eaten from one side (regenerating now) my favourite and healthiest colony was all closed up for two days then slowly recovering i had a japanese leather frag attached with a toothpick/glue to a frag completely eaten up from the plug and floated away and today came from work after a 24 hrs shift a two weeks old frag of zoa is gone!!!!!! like nothing on it except glue! it had three small heads but was very securely glued and was starting to heal and doing great but there is no sign of it at all...I noticed most this happen when i don't feed for a day ( away for work) my livestock are 2 clowns tailspot blenny 2 nassarius snails countless torchus snails as they are having a party all the time may 4 big ones and hundred small ones i also noticed some big pods like 3-4 mm and they everywhere including these colonies... i do have an algae problem but not too too bad, hair algae and sea lettuce red sea max 34 gl AIO rebuilt i feed Mysis/ LS pellets/ reefroids... thoughts on skunk shrimp and or pods eating softies? looked for nudis and zoa pox, zoo eating spider and couldn't see anything,,, just pods some are tiny and dark in color some are big almost like a small ant should i get a wrasse to eat the pods? if so which wrasse is suitable for a 34 gl with crushed corals?
  9. I guess I'll start with a little bit about myself. I started keeping fish back in 1963 or 64; I don't remember which, it was so long ago. Back in those days FW was the only option, especially for a little kid. I was quite the entrepreneur, selling livebearer fry to Woolworth's and the local fish store for pennies apiece. It was enough to keep me well supplied with candy I continued to keep a tank or two going off and on (mostly on) right up until the present. When I started seeing marine tanks appear on the scene, I knew that I would eventually set one up, but it took me a while. Life in the military and the constant moving, often with almost no notice, isn't exactly conducive to the marine hobby. When I made my final military move back in 2007, I decided to make the switch to salt water. I had planned on going fish only, but after seeing the display tanks at the LFS my wife had other ideas. In the past 10 years, I have had a number of reef tanks - a 30G (for 1 year), a 75G (for 6 years), a 3G (for 5 years), a DIY 10G AIO (for 2 years), a 120G (for 2 1/2 years) and now my latest - a CADLIGHTS 28G bowfront AIO that has been running for a month and a half or so. I started the tank using about 20lbs of well established LR that I took from the sump of the 120G. I also snagged about a litre of Siporax from the sump and placed it into one of the chambers of the 28G. I used mostly new sand, but added a few cups of sand from the other tank to help things along. The cycle was virtually non-existent. I have a number of sponges in the 120 sump that I rotate through the back chambers to help with the pod population. I picked up two used AI Primes for lighting (one older version and one HD) and am currently running the Saxby low power schedule. I have a Tunze 9001 skimmer in the back, a Jebao SW-4 for additional flow, and a DIY dual float ATO. I've decided to make this a zoa/paly/pipefish tank. Thanks to a local fellow reefer (Sharbuckle here on Nano-Reef) and a recent frag swap, I managed to add quite a few specimens to the meager collection that I moved over from the other tank. As far as fish go, I have a Rainford's Goby, a Wheeler's Goby, a m/f pair of bluestripe pipefish, 2 male dragonface pipefish, and as of yesterday a garden eel. I created a pretty deep sandbed on one side of the tank for the eel, but of course it wants to be front and centre in 1 1/2 inches of sand. Go figure. Yes, I know that I'm moving fast and nothing good happens quickly in this hobby, but what can I say? I'm 60 years old and who knows how much longer I'll be around, so I plan on enjoying things while I can. I've always fed my tanks a lot, and this one is no different - it gets live bbs daily as well as probably 4 or 5 other feedings of various frozen and bottled foods. They're not huge portions, but I figure that in the wild fish are generally eating, sleeping, pooping, and making whoopie, so I do my best to make them feel like they are in the wild. Except for the 1 1/2 heads of Rastas, I don't know the names of the zoas or palys. I just pick ones that look nice. I know that this thread is useless without pictures, so here are a few for you. I am probably the world's worst aquarium photographer, so please be prepared to use your imagination. Jerry
  10. Kvasir

    Kvasirs' Fresh Start

    Edit - 10/22/2017 - A new plan based on cost and fit, but first, a new theory. The Previous Plan: A 25g Cube with a custom refugium, using AI Prime HD's and various other malarkey. Why a new plan: Since coming back with a renewed interest and wallet for nano/reefing, I've been reading a lot. Mostly about the revolution of LED lights since they were a few thousand for a questionable product, PAR levels and requirements, and refugium-only nutrient/phosphate filtration. Over the past couple weeks, the wife and I have been reading, discussing, looking, reading, and discussing more. They say with age comes wisdom - I have started to think wisdom is patience as had I been younger I would of jumped for the 25g Cube tank and went wild with setup without planning. Needless to say, I'm being more reserved and patient this time around, constantly reviewing information. So what's this all mean? A good part of this post is me putting the idea down somewhere, where I can come back read/review it and further contemplate (Over some quality tea in the AM and scotch or beer in the PM). I'm looking at this project as both a personal experiment in control and perseverance. As a younger reefer, I was too apt to tear down and restart or move to a bigger system to such a level it was unsustainable. A lesson learned and the method that will be applied here is the following: Consistency, Naturalism, and recycling what I can from my 10-years-ago youth. So what is the new plan? It's three simple principles: First and foremost, we're recycling what I may have left-over from my previous setups, should those pieces still exist. I'll have an itemized list below. I had three setups. A 3.5g Picotope, an 8g Biocube all-in-one, and a 20g long prop tank with a 2.5g rubble refugium/bubble-guard that I custom built from a 2.5g AGA tank. I think there's an old protein skimmer and maybe even an old Metal Halide light that had maybe a few months of use before it was broken down and taken to my parents basement after college, and various other odds and ends. Second, we are limited on size and weight. A younger me threw caution to the wind and used a TV stand for his first cube, thinking it was a perfect solution. However, I now realize that 8lbs per gallon of water and a multiple of two or three of total water weight is a good number to make sure your stand can hold. So we're going to size down from the initial size of 25g and stay around 8-10g for the display tank. If I have a leftover Biocube, that would be perfect as I'll be doing some DIY to make it better than what an all-in-one can offer. More on that later. Third, I want to go for a no-water-change tank to increase simplicity of maintenance from a physical requirement and time-requirement. Yes, this is including a larger-than-usual refugium. After a lot of research, doing many chemical formulas, and math I believe it should be possible. I had this epiphany when watching a "New to me" tank maintenance video. I'm going to elaborate, or at least try to, the best I can. I believe the core issue I'm seeing is that the idea that water changes are all a tank needs is mathematically incorrect. Most people say "20% water changes are very important! They replace trace elements and chemicals that are required for reefs and fish while removing nitrates and phosphates!" Now, stop and look at that statement - Speaking from a long-term standpoint, it's totally incorrect. I'm going to try to break this down next. Why I'm starting to believe water changes are total bunk when considering the long-term health and growth of fish and corals: Let's start with a simple concept of a hundred gallon tank. Most people suggest 20% water changes, which equates to 20 gallons of water. Simple, right? Well, let's complicate this. Let's say (for the sake of example) every gallon of water was a complete molecule of nitrate. If we do a 20% change of this water, we're still left with 80 gallons of nitrate! While we're reducing this to ppm in reality, you're still leaving room for a continual build of nitrates and phosphates. You're taking less than half on a regular basis. If the amount of nitrates accumulating over the course of a week is more than 80 in this example, then you're fighting a losing battle. Now sticking with this same theory, people say that water changes replace essential trace elements such as iodine, calcium and so-on. Again, for the sake of simplicity let's say that in that imaginary hundred gallon tank has a bunch of corals in it. Every week, they use 10% of the total trace elements within the tank. Now, if we remove 20% of water and replace it, we've replace 20% of 10% from a total of 100 gallons. What's this mean? What is the point of this? Well, to put it simply, a 20% water change is fighting a losing battle. You'll eventually reach a null point where you'll be fighting ZERO trace elements and a level of nitrates and phosphates that are all but lethal or encouraging for algae growth. This is why I believe I've seen over my history of reefing an eventual 'mini-crash' or a sudden bloom of basic algae and a loss of corals/fish. Even with weekly water changes, there is going to be that eventual "Event Horizon" where a tipping point is reached. So how do we combat this: I believe tanks that run refugiums have a natural 'ringer' in their corner. The nitrates and phosphates are kept in check by the macro-algae. It's possible to have a near zero or sub-whole tank with a good size refugium and the proper lighting to support the growth and process of photosynthesis. Secondly, dosing or reactors are a requirement! It's the only way to keep up with the loss of trace elements and other properties we need to keep in check so that we run as close as possible to seawater's parameters. If you're running a refugium to it's full potential, and regularly harvesting the algae from it to encourage growth and providing the proper lighting to ensure the process of photosynthesis can happen as efficiently as possible. Second, a close monitoring of all trace elements and dosing to make sure they stay well within parameters. I believe if this is done, then the only changing of water that needs to occur is the evaporation of the tanks water and the topping off of freshwater that should follow suit. After all, that's how it's done in nature. Up Next, the new plan.
  11. 150 for the 6p. Singles and doubles are 35pp.
  12. Hi, Just a bit of advice please guys. So I have put in my first corals, got them last Saturday, drip acclimated and up until today both are still closed tight, LFS said they will be for up to 48hrs after adding to tank, have contacted them again as now on day 4, they tell me not to worry, are they right? Tank is a AquaOne Nano 35, running since Nov 17 with live rock, weekly 10ltr water changes. Current livestock, 1 x Blue Damsel, 1 Blue Leg Hermit, 3 Nassarius and 1 Cerith Snail. Water - 1.025 PH - 8.2 Ammonia - 0 Nitrite - 0 Nitrate - <5 Any advice would be appreciate. Cheers
  13. The Reef Novice

    Please Help RBTA Stung Zoanthids

    Hello all, My anemone moved over night due to my stupidity (changed around the power heads) and has stung two of my zoanthid colonies. I am current focusing a power head on the BTA so it can move. However looking at the picture, will my Zoa’s be able to bounce back from this? If so how can I help them? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  14. Reefisgood61

    Zoas mysteriously dying

    I have had my tank up for about 6 months. Doing really well. All healthy. Soft coral, zoas, leathers fish and cleaners. I have had this zoa colony since the beginning. Maybe 3 months. All of a sudden the center section zoas start disappearing. My other zoa colonies are fine. On different rocks. But now I see a new spot where they are dying or disappearing. Any ideas on what is up? A friend suggested nudibranchs. But I can’t see any predetor. No evidence of the fish or hermits bothering them. Hoping you have ideas and advice. Should I remove it. Befor it spreads?
  15. Noinoi24

    Could Zoa kill my clowns?

    So, I have 2 clowns in the tank swimming happily, I’ve just removed a utter chaos zoa from a plug, unfortunately it has to indure a fall from the sink to the floor and was smashed a little bit (hope it will not die) after mounting in the rock, I placed it back on my tank where the clowns are. Now the clowns I noticed are doing some flashing movements, like trying to clear their eyes on the sand. It’s both of the clowns doing it. Also it was 10 minutes before light on my tank is turned off. So I’m wondering, could it be the zoa causing an issue? Or my timing as it was 10 minutes before lights out?
  16. Lugmos12

    Zoas

  17. Noinoi24

    SPS killing my Zoa?

    So I got a free red cap last night from a friend, I got a Rasta Zoa as well, which I love very much. I mounted the Red cap monti on time and accidentally fell on top of the open Rasta Zoa, the zoa has closed since. Will my Zoa be okay? Will it live?
  18. Friendly

    what's your favorite?

    not which...but what! what is your fav SPS? what is your fav LPS? what is your fav Softy? what is your fav Zoa? what is your fav Paly? why? reading up on my options and just looking to see what others like and why.
  19. Lugmos12

    Corals - need ID

    Some Zoas/Palys(?). I have no idea what the names are. I tried looking online but I'm still at a loss.
  20. JoeMan02

    First Reef Aquarium

    Hi guys! This is my first reef tank, It's a fluval evo 13.5 with the fluval SEA PS2 mini protein skimmer and a hydor koralina 240 pump. My first corals were a mushroom rock, kenya tree, and green palythoas. My tank has been set up for almost 7 months now and since I bought my first corals I have accumulated 14 more types and not my tank is really starting to look like a reef! My favorite corals include the multiple types of zoas i have collected, my red digi, my aussie green leather, and finally my orange galaxea. The tank is stocked with a green chromi, two ocellaris clowns, and a royal gramma basselet, along with the classing cleanup crew of hermit crabs and some snails. I would love to hear your feedback and suggestions! sorry about the poor picture quality, iPhone 6
  21. jstj0sh

    Utter Chaos Zoa

  22. thespinningsadhu

    Sexy on the Zoas

    I was having fun with my macro lens.

    © jagadeesh owens

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