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Showing results for tags 'water parameters'.
Found 5 results
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So watching a bsr live last night, there was a topic on pH and coral growth. Having a level 8.3 promotes a healthy and steady growth for LPS / SPS. Personally, I haven't monitored pH for years. Question is, should I? I'm not sure, maybe. Out of interest I have an old API pH test kit (only just in date by 2 months) so decided to check it. It came out at 8.4 so just above what bsr are telling me is good.. not sure how accurate API is for pH but that's a different issue. Who cares? Do you? Do you measure pH?
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Hey, so first things first, I live in a country where reef keeping is extremely difficult as i practically have to order everything internationally which take 2-4 weeks to arrive. So, I have a 36L nano tank that has been running for 6 months now or so. I have 2 clowns, 1 yellow wrasse and 1 blenny. For cleanup crew I have 1 nassarius snail, 1 turbo snail, 1 hermit crab and 1 fire shrimp. For corals I have a zoa colony (bottom) consisting of 2 colorations, 1 elegance coral (mid) and 2 frogspawn (top) heads. I do a 25% water change every 2 weeks, I dont dose anything due to my small tank size and small number of corals, I have a protein skimmer that runs 8 hours a day and I run white light 3 hours and blue light 7 hours. The only tests allowed to be shipped in via personal shipping are ammonia, nitrate and nitrite and pH tests. My parameters as of today are 0 Ammonia, 0.1 Nitrate and 5 Nitrites. I feed once every 2 days and I have zero algae issues. My elegance and zoas has been closed for 2 months and counting, while my frogspawns are florishing and growing and even small babies started forming around the base. My temperature is 25 celcius and the water I use is from a store pre mixed because it's super hard and super expensive to find salt here to mix yourself, so unfortunately I am stuck with the options I have. I would appreciate any tips or help regarding my corals, I am afraid they would die, especially the elegance as it cost me a fortune getting it where I live. Thanks in advance!
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I'm new to the community (just starting up my first pico reef) and have been doing some reading - I've heard that you shouldn't go for a cheap swing hydrometer because they're calibrated to one temperature, alas I am cheap (in this hobby, I know, a fatal flaw) and looking for ways out of the extra fifteen dollars. It looks like brewers figured this out - is there any reason this wouldn't work? https://www.brewersfriend.com/hydrometer-temp/
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- hydrometer
- salinity
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I am wondering why my tank would have low alkalinity but normal calcium levels? My alkalinity is currently 6.5 and my calcium is 440. What’s the best way to fix this? Water changes? I’ve been reading about calcium and alkalinity online but I’m still somewhat confused with their relationship and so I’m not sure how to address this issue.
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Hello All! As the title suggests, I have a green bubble coral that is currently undergoing some tough times. The lower-center portion of the skeleton is gone, but I still get decent extension from the remaining sections of the coral (I'll have pictures posted below). I've had this coral for roughly 4 months, and prior to this injury it would be roughly 9 inches across. This all started after a 20% water change and i believe, but not a 100%, I bumped the coral. I didn't notice any popped bubbles or severe pressing/pinching. This was roughly 2-3 weeks ago from now. Since then, the coral has shown progression and regression in different facets. The coral originally excreted a brown, mucous-like substance, but this stopped roughly 10 days ago (originally thought the coral had brown-jelly). Since then, the sides extend to a decent length, but the middle slowly is deteriorating. Any help would be greatly appreciated and tank specs will be below. Thanks! Tank Setup: 14k white LED's with moonlights (low to moderate lighting) (bubble is currently in a moderate-light location) 532 gph (2 pumps alternating on wavemaker) (anywhere from low to high) (bubble is currently in low flow) SG: 1.026 Calcium: 440 Alkalinity: between 120-140 mg/L (had to use test strips because kit was out of date) nitrates: <10 nitrites: 0 ammonia: 0 also have been using recent iodine supplement (has opened better since using supplement) Tankmates: 2 percula clowns 2 3 stripe damselfish 1 yellow-tail damsel toadstool leather eagle-eye polyps green-eye zoas kenya tree purple-tip, green bubble anemone red trachyphyllia green star-polyp The photos below in order are: the bubble closed up for better view of injury, the bubble a week after injury, the bubble two weeks after injury, the bubble a few months ago pre-injury
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