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Found 8 results

  1. HingleMcCringleberry

    Need Help! Cupramine not working?

    Hi all. I've really been struggling recently. If you get angry reading this you probably should be. many mistakes were made that WILL NOT be repeated. FOR A DETAILED EXPLANATION READ THE WHOLE POST IF YOU HATE READING AND JUST WANT A SYNOPSIS JUST READ THE BOTTOM PARAGRAPH AND CONCLUSION I have been running two tanks, a 20 gallon and a 30 gallon bio cube. First mistake: I didnt quarantine a rabbitfish. Now the 30 gallon has ich and I cant undo it. For now, the infection is under control and my fish are not symptomatic, but I know my tank will have ich until I go FALLOW. I am tentatively content to rest that issue while I deal with a more pressing matter... my 20 gallon disaster. Second mistake: I bought a fish at Petco AND didnt quarantine. That got me MARINE VELVET. I only mention the ich in the 30 gallon because the one benefit it gave me was helping confirm my diagnosis in the 20 gallon tank. So here is the story. I had just arranged to buy a 75 gallon tank to replace my 20 gallon. I got so excited and went out and bought a tiny blue hippo from petco and put him straight in the 20 gallon. I thought it would be fine because the bigger tank transition was just a few days away (new tank came already cycled). But the tang didnt last two days after breaking out in tons of tiny white spots and eventually looking cloudy right before it died. Soon my coral beauty took ill with the same symptoms and i knew i needed to act fast. I did a lot of research and decided it was probably velvet. I ran to the only pet store still open (look at Petco profiting from their booby-trapped fish) and picked up a 20 gallon long, a bubbler, a heater, a power head, a tiny hang off filter, and cupramine and FINALLY set up a quarantine tank. I removed the filter material that came with the filter and added an empty sponge bag to hopefully grow some good bacteria. I used some of that instant cycle stuff to add a little of that good bacteria off the bat. Finally I added some pieces of PVC pipe for the fish to hide in. I did not buy a copper test kit (they didnt have one). I followed the instructions on the cupramine bottle and added the first dose. Then I caught the angelfish (who wasnt too far gone because he put up quite a fight) and added him to the hospital tank. The coral beauty quickly lost its spots over the next few days. I did not remove the rest of my fish because they weren't showing symptoms and I would have to destroy my rockwork and knock over all my corals and nems to even have a chance of catching all of them. Fast forward a week and all the fish in the 20 gallon still appear and behave as if they are completely healthy but the coral beauty has broken out in white dots again! I dosed the copper exactly as instructed on the days it told me to. I added a total of 40 drops over several days which is half what the bottle told me would reach a therapeutic dose. I had been told that the recommendations on the bottle were overkill but clearly, I needed the full dose so I added the other 40 drops to the quarantine tank. That didn't help, and two days later the coral beauty looked even worse. I figured maybe I was wrong to diagnose velvet and perhaps it was not a parasite but a fungus or a bacteria. I had some Ruby Reef "Rally" lying around and so I dosed the quarantine tank with that too. Sure enough, the spots went away again. I knew if it was indeed velvet and I had just botched the treatment then the velvet was still living in the 20 gallon. So when I finally upgraded to the 75 gallon tank I moved all the rock, sand, and inverts, but added all the fish from the 20 gallon to the quarantine tank. Then I started the timer for 6 weeks until the potential velvet starved in the fish free 75 gallon tank. Mistake 3: I bought more new fish. Undeterred from my past mistakes I picked up a new baby hippo tang from a reputable store as well as a dottyback and added them to the quarantine too. I figured as long as the quarantine tank had to be up and running I might as well take the opportunity to add the new fish I needed to quarantine anyways. Well the velvet came back and the dottyback and baby hippo #2 died in 2 days. Mistake 4?: More fish Well its been 2 weeks since the dottyback and 2nd hippo died. that makes 3 weeks of no fish if you add the days that the 20 gallon had no fish and the days since the 75 has been up and running. I have done 8 50% water changes on the quarantine tank in that time. I make sure to add back the copper I remove each time. The copper should now be at 1.5 times the recommended dose. Everything has been looking healthy so two days ago I went to the LFS and bought a small hippo tang. Today it has some tiny white spots. SYNOPSIS: I didnt quarantine my new fish and introduced marine velvet to my tank. I have seen ich before and this was much smaller and more numerous dots and killed very quickly. I set up a hospital tank and dosed 50% recommended of cupermine. A week later the velvet came back and more fish died so I dosed 100% the recommended dose. The velvet still came back and more fish died again so I upped to 150% dose. I had two weeks without symptoms and I added a new fish and two days later it has velvet. I have been doing proper water changes, I removed all carbon and other filters that arent mechanical, I have no skimmer or UV sterilizer. I am so sure its velvet based on how it looks, how the fish behave, and how quickly it kills. CONCLUSION: What am I doing wrong? Other than the unintended torturing of so many innocent fish. Every time I think I've killed the parasite with cupramine it comes back. I'm at 150% recommended dose for crying out loud. Nothing should be able to survive long enough in the swimming stage to infect a fish. Can anyone tell me what's going on? And why are half my fish totally immune while others die within 48 hours of introduction?
  2. HingleMcCringleberry

    Living with ich: Can/Should it be done?

    Hi all, I’m looking for opinions on wether it is worth trying to cure my ich. I have ich ich in my 30 gallon reef tank. It broke out about 2 months ago and all the fish made it. I bought some reef safe medicine that claimed it would cure ich knowing it wouldn’t cure it. I do credit the medicine with lessening the burden on my fish and allowing them to fight through it. My my understanding is that ich is definitely still alive in my tank. Just not in plague proportions. I’ve heard fish start to build a degree of immunity to a particular strain of ich after they fight off the initial infection. So there’s just a small amount of ich feeding on my fish in low enough numbers that my fish maintain their immune systems and appear asymptomatic. And I guess I could be ok with that. It feels precarious. If the ich ever reaches critical mass then it will start to tax the immune system of the fish. The stress of fighting it off weakens their immune system and it snowballs into another outbreak. That’s my understanding. But can I avoid giving ich that foothold? My fish get along great. My parameters are stable. And I don’t plan on adding any more fish. So all the biggest triggers to stress a fish and start an outbreak are mostly neutralized? in the meantime, as my fish continue to fight the daily battle of enduring a handful of ich bites, they are slowly building more immunity. Like a cruel vaccine? Maybe? ive also heard from someone that ich can only reproduce and undergo its lifecycle a finite number of times (many years worth). But still. If all my fish hang on, and nothing new is added, could it be possible to make it to the finish line and beat ich by running out the clock? there are tons of encrusting corals that cover a maze of mat holes and crevices in the tank. I could only remove the fish by tearing it all down and sacrificing a lot of coral die off. Can I live with ich? Has anyone done it? Is it really worth tearing down my tank to kill it?
  3. So I've been doing quite a bit of research on using hydrogen peroxide and I think I'm ready to do it I've been battling green hair algae pretty heavily in my main display tank for a while now it's killed off all my smaller frags and my large colonies are starting to struggle. I feel like I've been out of point where I can't add anything new to the tank for a couple months now. I was going to use food-grade but I can't find any local source and and I see people have success with the standard 3% available. From what I gather I should start with one milliliter per 10 gallon but that really doesn't seem a lot especially with the amount of tank that I need to do. I can remove my rocks if necessary but I would really like to not do that method, mostly to not having a proper place to store the rock while doing the treatment. The store is also going to be another source of before and after so Brandon can add to his ever-growing collection of success hopefully. First let's list what I've done for the past 6 Plus months: Manual removal and scrubbing with a firm brush and toothbrush. Reducing feeding to bare minimum for livestock, which they hated as they are super spoiled. I run both carbon and gfo. Set up an install a sump and refugium. Been up and running successfully for about 4 months now Deep clean my sand bed Recently treated fluconazole, this was a double whammy as a fish purchased had a fungal infection. Some GHA got a little white but no effects that was measurable beyond that. Sadly the fish did not make it. Many many hours of tank husbandry and maintenance. Reduce lighting schedule and intensity. Sweat and Tears, though I think that's just raising the salinity... So now my goal and treatment going forward assuming I'm correct is: Kill pumps and Flow Manually remove as much as I can from area without water change. Target one section of rock with algae a day with 5ml, 45g tank+sump Maintain normal water change schedule, 15g once a week. Does this sound right guys, guru @brandon429 ? I do have an RODI system and I can make SW at home if I have to do a water change after each dose. Edit: Photos added, this is what it looks like 3 weeks after a deep scrub.
  4. 805NanoReef

    QT tank set up

    I have a question.. im going to set up a QT tank to treat one of my clown fish. Ive heard some say i can use a live rock to have some beneficial bacteria so the ammonia wont spike. Just as long as i don't take it out and use it on my main display tank. Some say not to because the parasite an latch on to the rock.. I heard about the filtration sponges but i don't have time to let is sit in my tank to get populated bacteria. Any suggestions??
  5. I got home today to find my Wyoming White fish with a white speck near its mouth. I sat there and examined the rest of its body to trey to detect any other speck since its mostly white itÂ’s a little hard to tell but it seems that the one near his mouth is the only one. I have another clownfish that shows no signs of ich as well as a yellow watchman goby. I do have a 10 gallon tank but have no equipment for it. Not even a light. At the moment I canÂ’t afford to buy the equipment so my question is, is there a good way to test him without a quarantine tank. What IÂ’m thinking is soaking the fish pallets with garlic and seeing if itÂ’ll ride out on its own with the fish gaining a stronger immune system. I also heard vitamin C would help too but donÂ’t know how people soak the pallets with that, if you can give me some tips on that too I would grately appreciate it. I just tested the water and have been testing frequently and my levels are all fine, I do regular water changes. The clownish is eating very well, as a matter of fact heÂ’s the first to go For the food. He doesnÂ’t seem to be rubbing himself or anything other than the white speck heÂ’s demonstrating normal healthy behavior.  If the garlic doesnÂ’t work I will try to gather the funds for a quarantine tank as soon as I can to treat with copper but donÂ’t know how long that will be. IÂ’ve also been reading about freshwater dips but IÂ’m not sure if theyÂ’re too risky. Does anyone have any experience with that??  Please help with any advice you can give!!!  Â
  6. Hello, I'm looking around for an Ich or velvet treatment for my FOWLR tank. I have a 10 gallon quarantine but all 1/2 of the fishes in the DT have ich. Do you have any suggestions which medication really works beside dosing copper on my DT. My fishes are quite big and putting them in that 10 gallon QT is not a good idea. Please help.
  7. OK guys, I want your nudibranchs. Not the berghia/aptasia variety. Not the zoanthid eating variety. Any other type you happen to find as hitchhikker. Post a pic and I'll send you $$ if it's a species I like.
  8. In the last year or so a slimy algae or bacteria has developed in my tank will grow everywhere, from the live rock to glass to sand. I had done some reserach earlier and it seemed to be some sort of bacteria, not an algae, but I am still not sure. About 2 months ago I started dosing with Dr Tims Waste Away in the recommended amount and it seemed to help a little, but not get rid of it. I do water changes once every 2 weeks and try to suck out as much of the bacteria as I can. Does anyone have an ID on this stuff and/or recommendations on how to get rid of it? Tank 20 gallons (8 gallon sub) Filter reactor with phosban and Hydrocarbon Aquatic Life Mini Skimmer Vortech Mp 10 Current USA Orbit Led light
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