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Found 9 results

  1. Amphrites

    Amp's 20L [Retired]

    Well, it's a little late to start a build thread now seeing as the tank is mostly put together, if anything I suppose this will be more of a "polishing up" stocking and grow-out... thing... I do have some pictures I've taken of the process though and some little stories about how one thing or another got thrown together, but at this point I like the scape and stock enough I wanted to share it. Hope you enjoy! About 8 months ago I bumped into the opportunity to purchase a used Nuvo Atoll and AI prime light for $150 and I just couldn't say no. I'd been really wanting to get back into the hobby after moving off the big island of hawaii for ongoing health-reasons after a bout of myocarditis. It came in pretty scratched but I polished it up within an inch of the factory using the three-step Novus polish kit and some microfiber towels. Unfortunately I no longer really have any before and after pictures of the 6 or so hour process of getting everything nice a bright again, but I definitely learned I never want to deal with an acrylic tank again. I can't believe how easily these tanks scratch and how deeply at that... Next up was grabbing some rocks, I didn't want to deal with all the pests and unknowns which can hitchhike on live rock so I went with dry, instead figuring I would cycle the tank using ammonia, bottled Tim's, and some time. I couldn't really think of a fantastic scape Idea and had too many plans laid out, so I just ended up walking out of the LFS with a 30lb or so pile of Dry rock. I figured I could do some kind of really vertical scape to take advantage of the cylinder-shape of the tank, and I grabbed enough flat pieces that I felt like I could easily make a cove or island layout if I wanted to down-the-road. I replaced the stock pump with a Sicc nano 120 gph and bought a Sicc Voyager 240 for circulation alongside Brightwell N03 cubes, about "50 gallons worth" of Matrix and No3-out media, some chemi-pure blue nano satchels, phosguard, carbon, and egg-crate to hold it all in the AIO section. Underneath the overflow is filter-floss, carbon/phosguard, and then a chemipure satchel, to the right of it in the section which gets essentially no-flow is the NO3 seachem media, then in the large-middle section is half-a container of the brightwell NO3Out media and the Seachem Matrix. I also fashioned a little DIY lid out of Lowes scrap acrylic to keep evaporation down, though I really should have used some rods to keep it from warping, I still can't say I'm unhappy with the results. Bought a continuous power-supply UAC, which doubles as a backup for the nebulizer-compressor... And a Finnex 100W heater. Next-up the protoscaping while the tank cycled, I really wanted to try to maximize the amount of space I had for corals and livestock, while working with keeping a kind of full-tank-gyre action going. I was never really happy with the initial-concepts but couldn't quite figure out what I wanted to do, shy of keeping things bare-bottom, either. I managed to skip any huge algae or cyano breakouts and ended up with a 0-ammonia 10-nitrate tank within two moths, though I did get a few diatom blooms they always cleared up as fast as they came on. (That said I still get the occasional bloom after playing with my rockwork >_>) After two months wet, and about 1 month of feeding an empty tank, I decided to test the waters with a small clean-up crew, four nerite snails and a dwarf cerith. I never really took any pictures of them, but my wife and I both love watching the nerites zip all over the tank despite supposedly being "nocturnal", and have enjoyed trying to figure out where on earth the cerith is hiding during the day. Shortly thereafter we decided to grab a maxima from a local LFS, at the time it looked almost opal-white and was barely two or three inches across. I placed it towards the top of my rockwork and woke up the next morning to find that the little bugger had jumped into a hole and quite-firmly attached itself, prompting a "quick" re-working of the tank. Unfortunately working in the tank and scaping is much less pleasant than I had expected, certainly nowhere near as enjoyable as it used to be for me. Because of my various conditions I've lost most of my postural muscles over-time and have swinging electrolyte-imbalances which can cause shaking, spasms, and pain at just about any angle or weight. Needless to say working in the tank can at times be incredibly frustrating and physically-unpleasant, that said I still love aquascaping dearly and will probably end up with a planted bookshelf-tank or jar in the future. A shot of the clam and a Photo-bombing pair of nerites a few weeks-in. About a month later I decided it was time to start adding some corals when I chanced upon a bunch of indo euphyllia about to run out its' timer on Ebay, I picked up an unknown piece which I think is Baliensis, a bi-color frogspawn, and a yellow-ish hammer; plus a Florida-ricordea, chalice, and blasto-merletti colony for about $15 a piece after-shipping. Here's a grumpy shot of everyone after shipping, dipping, and dropping into the tank: And everyone a few days later: After an ongoing, impressively-successful, feeding regimen of sera-marin-granules (once a week) and 1/4 the recommended dose of RedSea AB I decided to order some plastic-coated neodimium magnets to replace the frag plugs, with the plan of epoxying and gluing their pairs into the rockwork, this way I can remove, swap, and frag the colonies without tearing apart my scape or worrying about much of anything. Unfortunately I think I went overkill on their strength as I can pretty much pick my rocks up by the corals XD Shot of the Maxima and Pink-green chalice after about a month settling-in and my dialing in the two-part dosing to keep alk and cal stable. The longer I had the scape up the more I realized the flow levels just weren't working out for the euphyllia or the chalice. The water coming off the voyager was getting deflected down directly onto the colonies and buffeting them, so I bought a timer to turn the powerhead off a few times a day as a temporary-solution until I felt ready to begin more re-scaping. After a week or so I decided breaking up the rock the Maxima was attached to was a great starting place as its' size and awkward shape left itself and the entire scape unsteady and prone to constantly coming apart while I tried to work with the coral. A few days ago my wife fell in love with this dark black-purple and rich-green anchor coral we found at a LFS, it reminds me of a truffula tree or some goofy fairytale-plant. Which leads me to the current iteration of the scape, overnight the new anchor coral decided to go cliff-diving and fell off its' plug entirely, to fish it out I pretty much had to tear apart the whole tank. With that said it did give me the opportunity and excuse I needed to completely-redesign my rockwork into something that would work better for my animals and for me. Four hours and a very sore back/core later and we have this beautiful little lagoon/cove which keeps the euphyllia sheltered from harsh flow and light, keeps the clam high-and center toward the Prime-puck, and the chalice in highish-flow and medium-ish light. The plan from here is to get a Lobo/Favia/Acan colony for the center and some bubblegum Digitata for the back-right of the wall (to be suspended by magnets) and decide on a small fish which won't harass the clam (No clown gobies, no damsels, I've heard clownfish can be mean...) maybe an assessor? I would love to try a yellow-stripe clingfish, but I know you're not supposed to keep pipefish with clams and am not sure if there's a similar rule. On top of that they're very difficult to keep and, while I would be willing to make it a little-feeding dish and shelter and go the extra-mile, even those who seem to do everything right tend to have their fish die within 3 years... Since there's no real information about their actual lifespan in the wild, I don't know how comfortable I am with the idea of potentially doing that to an animal when other species seem to adapt or even thrive in captivity by contrast. Anyway, that's pretty much the whole process of setting up this 13g nano, it has been a really long time since I've been able to play around with this hobby and honestly this tank has been jumping back into the deep-end for me. I'd love to hear any suggestions on livestock, but I want to keep it light and 10% every-other week or even monthly water-changes in the realm of possibility because of my condition (I test every three days to make sure nitrates are undetectable). Hope you enjoyed the read as much as I've loved browsing around the community and admiring all of your tanks and projects, hope you have a great day!
  2. Gulls

    Torch coral

    hi all i recently bought a torch coral frag. It iwas way smaller than I thought. Post proper accumulation, I placed it in my nano my parameters are as under ammonia : 0 nitrite: 0 nitrate: 20 ppm Ph: 8.2 Po4: 0.03 Alk: 7.3 calc: 400 the torch is still shrunk and the tentacles are not extending i tried lowering the flow and reduced the light intensity. It showed done response but yet the tentacles are not extending as it was before I got them . I changed the placement and placed it on the stand and a bit away from direct overhead light any idea what I can do? rgds
  3. Dirté Sanchez

    Super inflated or stringy euphyllia

    Okay peoples! I have two torches and several small hammers that are rather shriveled or stringy. They also have been bloating some at different times during the day. The elegance coral is blown up like a blimp and then deflates to crumple in on itself. What’s changed? Got a new RedSea LED 90 light and since it bleached multiple SPS corals, I have it running at 10/15/25% and then back down in the same increment, total ramp up and down for 10 hours. Got a new ice cap gyre pump, the small one, and it’s set at 10% flow alternating pumps every 10 seconds. Water parameters have been stable. Water changes weekly of 10-12g. Can anyone tell me what’s making these corals act like this?
  4. Dear Reefing Family, It has been two days now, and my Torch coral has been exhibiting some unusual behavior. Interestingly, I do not see the green tips on many of the polyps. This was noticed only in the morning (I believe it might have happened overnight). Salinity = 1.025 dKH = 8.5 Ca = 425 Nevertheless, the reason for my worry is that all the other inhabitants are doing well. Could this be a one-off scenario where it is just pissed for no reason? Or it could be a Polyp bailout situation? The tissue is still attached to the skeleton, so I'm really not sure Any guidance and/or pointers from your experience will be greatly appreciated. I hope this coral gets back to normal. This is one of my favorite corals!
  5. Hello all, attached is a picture of one of my torch corals, it seems like the flesh/skin is receding. Its also starting to do this on my other torches Im running an Ai prime hd (I might have used too much intensity) and im running a reef glass protein skimmer, with chemipure elite and purigen in my media basket. could flow possible make corals recede like this or the light? all my parameters are listed below: Ammonia: 0 nitrite: 0 nitrate: 5 ph 8.2~8.4 phosphate (hanna checker) : 0.03 (been lowering them, they were at 0.07) calcium: 425 alkalinity: 8.5 magnesium: (dont have a test kit, should be normal.. I due weekly water changes of 23%) Im really starting to get worried.. spent a lot of money on my torches, please help I played around with my ai prime light intensity, nothing worked.. im starting to think it may be too much flow that is the problem.. Let me know!
  6. Hey guys, i know lps can usually be together no problem, however im planning on making an epic torch garden with several different colour torches. can i place them all together even when their polyps sway and touch eachother!?? just want to be sure before i do anything. thanks again. also, can i add a hammer and a torch and have them touch eachother? Thanks for the inputs
  7. ocreefer

    Cad Lights 18g Nano

    My 18g Cad Lights Nano. I get to work and sit next to it all day. It provides peach throughout the day and allows me to mentally stay relaxed.
  8. Hello, I have a half-moon 10 gallon Nano reef. The tanks has been running for about 3 months now. I have an API drop test kit for saltwater and all my readings are steady safe. Nitrates hover around 20 ppm. Livestock: i have a black ocelaris clown, an engineer goby, a seahorse (hippo. Erectus), yellow (spotted) mandarin dragonet, a fire peppermint shrimp, 1 horned snail, feather duster, and a margarita snail. corals: a fairly large fungia, green torch coral, 7-polyp green zoas, ~30 polyp red zoas, a quarter sized plate coral filtration: Aqueon quietflow 10 (up to 20 gal.) and Cora life biocube protein skimmer attached to the back panel. The thermometer is set to ~73-74 F. A circulation pump pushing 100 gal/hr lighting: Hipargero Touch Control 30w CREE Nano LED Help I am seeking: all my fish are eating like champs and look healthy. Seahorse eats like a horse without much competition as I send the clown on the food chase and feed the seahorse very directly with a turkey Baster. Luckily for me, my mandarin enjoys frozen mysis and brine shrimp which compliment her constant grazing around the tank for copepods. My trouble pertains to my corals. The torch coral seems to be thriving without problems. My zoas and fungia however have issues opening up. I have been trying real hard to find the right balance of light and 2 part plankton feed but it’s been very difficult. The light I have is adjustable with 5 dimmer settings. I have been keeping it at the lowest setting for no more than 7 hours at a time seeing as anymore causes traces of a diatom bloom happening. I have attached pictures of my tank and would love some advice on how to go about getting my reef to thrive and not just survive. Thanks for your time! Its night time and I turned on the lights briefly for attaching pictures, the torch coral is usually very open and flamboyant.
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