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Tank IM 20 Outside DIMS: Length 23.62” Width: 15” Height: 13” Display DIMS: Length 23.16” Width: 11.38” Height: 13” Sand & Rock Ocean Direct Sand (10lbs) CaribSea Liferock Shapes (15lbs) Equipment Lights Radion XR15 Pro G6 Reefbrite KHO 15 Powerheads 2 MP10s set to alternating pulses switching every 4h. I play with flow constantly, so this is unlikely to stay this way longer than a few weeks. Nero 3 in the saltwater container. Skimmer Eshopps nano (foam removed from skimmer & pump) Simple BRS style CO2 scrubber attached (non recirculating) HVAC Cobalt NeoTherm 75w Honeywell Fan mounted to the wall beside above the tank. Controller Neptune apex circa 2019 Dosing 1 Versa (Kalk) 4 Head ReefDose Testers Trident 4x per day Hanna Low Range PO4 weekly Hanna HR NO3 weekly RO/DI Aquatic Life 4 stage ATO/AWC Auto Aqua Smart AWC 3 White 5G Buckets (ATO reservoir, Saltwater reservoir, Exported tank water) backlit so water level is visible. Salt Aquaforest Reef Salt (Mixed to 1.025) Livestock SPS RR Red Dragon RRC Holy Grail CC Purple Haze FG Gila Monster FG Mother Pucker FG Grape Soda DV Bonsai Cali Tort Limeade Nasuta Teal Echinata ND Red Montipora Digitata ND Rainbow Montipora LPS Goniopora Aussie Blastomusa ND Neon Trumpets FCC Bling Bling Cyphastrea Micromussa Lords FCC Jack-O-Lantern Leptoseris Soft Long Tentacle Japanese Deepwater Toadstool 2 Varieties of GSP Photosynthetic Gorgonian Ricordea Red Discos - Discosoma That 70s Shroom - Discosoma Crock Skins - Rhodactis Persian rugs - Rhodactis Money Shot - Rhodactis Bullseye - Rhodactis FCC Hairy Green - Rhodactis Fish 2 Clownfish 1 Royal Gramma 1 watchman goby Inverts 2 Peppermint shrimp 1 Pistol shrimp 5 Dwarf hermits 3 African hermits 1 Polkadot hermit 9 Nasarius 2 Strawberry conchs 4 Trochus 3 Astrea 2 Star astrea 3 Turbos A thriving pod population Food Frozen Reef Frenzy big seaweed removed. Get the nano to skip this. Our LFS isn’t super consistent keeping nano stocked. Hikari Mysis Alternated Randomly daily. 1 cube mysis or 1 1” square of Reef Frenzy. Powdered Benepets Coral Frenzy Alternated randomly 1/16 tsp mixed daily with frozen. We’ll substitute Reef Roids every now and then (twice a month roughly) to bump PO4 Frozen and powdered food is put in 20mls tank water, thawed, mixed, and fed in 3-4 feedings. Frozen is not rinsed. Liquid Oyster Feast - 4 drops into a powerhead a few times a week after lights out. Live Phyto - 5ml every 2-3 days Dry Vitalis flakes and pellets - only used if no frozen is available, and used sparingly even then Feeding regimen inspired by Reinaldo of Pirate’s Reef. Maintenance Daily 1-2L water changes Change floss every 2 days Empty skimmer cup every 2-3 days Change carbon weekly Change RowaPhos monthly Clean skimmer pump and body every 2-3 months Clean return pump every 2-3 months Clean media caddies every 2-3 months This is the ideal, bits and pieces slide around. Filtration Filter floss Marine Pure gems RowaPhos 3 Tbsp in a bag changed monthly Carbon (ROX or ReefSpec) 3 Tbsp in a bag changed weekly Eshopps nano skimmer 1.3ml daily NO3PO4X We run an inTank IM caddy in each side of the IM 20. Biological media on one side, carbon and Rowa on the other. Filter floss top layer on both sides. Parameters Alk 6.8 - 7.5 Ca 400 - 430 Mg 1400 - 1440 NO3 10 - 20 PO4 0.03 - 0.1 PH 7.9 - 8.3 Dosing Daily 425ml full strength kalk (Seachem) dripped 24/7 with Versa 1.8ml Foundation B (Liquid) 1.4ml Foundation A (Liquid) 1ml Foundation C (Liquid) 1.3ml NOPOX We live in a high-rise condo, and this particular combination gets us to a pH We can live with in the cold Canadian winter, and a great pH the rest of the year when we can open the windows. The dosing is all spread out over 24h. Live Phyto - 5ml every 2-3 days 10ml Eco Balance every 3-4 weeks The Story So Far This tank was started November 2021. It was started with Stax rocks, but was rescaped by my wife with LifeRock in May. That rock was run in a bucket of heated saltwater for 5 weeks, with 1tsp Aquaforest Life Source dosed weekly. The lid was loosely on to keep light to a minimum. We’ve had 0 algae/cyano/dino issues doing it this way. The rocks were replaced 50% at a time, 4 weeks apart. Live stock was added in the following order, after cycling for 4 weeks, and testing 0 Ammonia and 0 Nitrite. Clowns Mushrooms 6 each, hermits, nasarius snails, trochus snails Various LPS (some we kept, some didn’t make it) Royal Gramma Toadstool Goby Pistol Pair More mixed hermits and snails Montipora Acropora More mixed hermits and snails This was spread evenly across 12 months. Our philosophy is largely influenced by Nicholas Marion @Aqua Splendor. Build a full ecosystem, from phyto, to micro and macro grazers. Create habitats for the animals, adjust what you do in response to the animals in your care. For instance, we feed many foods that everything can eat. Pretty much everything eats the powdered food, phyto, oyster feast, and tiny bits of LRS. The goby is well fed now.The fish eat anything large enough to see. We like a nice diversity of invertebrates, and the microscopic food keeps them thriving. As we notice fewer inverts, we replenish. As there aren’t any massively useful nano fish, we think a healthy and thriving crew of inverts is a necessity in a nano tank That said, in the first year here are the bummers & battles. Cyano (Best Fix: just go straight to a chemiclean treatment, dose bacteria weekly for a month afterward) LCA Dinos (Best Fix: Sponge Excel 3 drops every 4 days, 5ml live phyto every other day, Tisbe or other pods, 10ml Ecobalance weekly. Don’t clean your glass. You are trying to outcompete it with anything - cyano, diatoms, GHA are all easy by comparison. Skip the blackouts and higher temps, they do nothing towards the solution and add stress to the already stressed system. Run nutrients 100:1 eg Nitrates 30 Phosphates 0.3, neither should be 0. Identifying strain of ydinoflagellates is critical to solving the problem. I highly recommend Mack’s Dino support group on Facebook. They are THE dino solvers, just follow the advice, it’s literally the best around.) Diatoms (Best Fix: Pods & Live phyto.) GHA (Best Fix: get nutrients in line, 100:1 N:P eg 30:0.3. Manual removal, increase snail and crab numbers by diversity and amount.) 3 Fancy mushrooms disappeared An Australian and an Indonesian torch coral started to fight, and the Indonesian lost. The Australian one died six weeks later. Several micromusa never got comfy and eventually died. A chalice and cyphastrea frag didn’t make it. Several Montipora frags were tossed after Montipora Nudibranch eggs were spotted on the frag rack (why you should monitor frags on a rack for a few weeks before placement). Several acros stripped as the chemistry wasn’t yet stable enough. Larger (maybe double the price) encrusted Acropora frags improve success approximately 90%. 20G is too small to nurse tiny frags until you get some SPS in there and your dosing is dialed in. What Would We Do Differently Start with Life rock and dose 1 teaspoon of LifeSource mud for the first 10 weeks that the tank is wet with rock in it, including during the cycle. Add two bottles of pods and dose a couple of mls of live phyto every few days and get them reproducing after adding the first fish. Start dripping Kalk much earlier on, even if it’s a very mild solution. Upping the saturation as the demand from LPS slowly climbs. Do this slowly, go by Alk tests. Get a Hanna checker, you’ll be testing Alk weekly if not daily. Run high alk & calcium while only softies to encourage coralline. Our Reefing Story We got into reeefing shortly after my diagnosis of multiple sclerosis in 2006. Prior to that I was a software engineer, my disability was enough to take me out of the workforce however. We were immediately addicted. A weekly LFS trip minimum. That first tank was taken down within a year. Although largely a success, we hadn’t anticipated how much of a roller coaster MS would be. Fast forward to 2019, I am now in a wheelchair and have plenty of time to dedicate to something. We started a FOWLR in a BioCube 16. It eventually got overrun with algae, and with the pandemic keeping us home… We had never lost our love of reef tanks and had contemplated numerous times starting another reef. So last fall we started up the Innovative Marine Nuvo 20. We agreed to split the duties. I’d handle all the research, the chemistry, monitoring, dosing, anything that didn’t need fine motor skill. She’d handle all the stuff that did, and all the heavy lifting, and we’d automate as much as we could as budget allowed. So while there is a great deal of automation, you can think of it as accessibility. It started with an AI Prime HD, but that got switched for a Radion XR15 pro when we started to go for SPS. Then we added the Reefbrite strips. We tried a small refugium in one of the back chambers, that turned out to largely be useless. After the rescape we decided to put everything on inch and a quarter frag discs and plugs, Securing them to the rock with a glue - epoxy - glue sandwich. This makes them easy to remove with bone cutters. Eventually you have a series of flat platforms of epoxy that you can just move the Frag discs between as you learn what corals like it where. This is mostly for the SPS so we can easily move them around without drilling the rock. Our set up is pretty dialled in at the moment. Input matches export, The ecosystem is stable to a large degree. Photos These are iPhone 14 Pro Max photos. We can’t find an orange filter that fits so any tips are gladly appreciated. These are largely from late October. Long View FG Grape Soda Limeade Nasuta Teal Echinata RRC Holy Grail RR Red Dragon (Daylight, before lights come on) More photos coming soon, questions welcome 😊. I use voice typing, so ignore anything too crazy, just point it out and I'll re-answer 😉
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Hi all - 15g nano reef cycled up and running. It is a bare bottom setup with real reef rock. Return pump at 24x GPH. I also have an ecoTech pump placed at the bottom with high flow for detritus, etc. Pair of clownfish. I don't have any experience with shrimp. I would like to get a fire shrimp, but am not sure if it will survive in this setup, or if it'll just get blown around to smithereens? Please share your thoughts / feedback / recommendations. 🙏
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Today I discovered something from the gates of hell. I was moving some decor around in my 30 gallon tank, which houses a pair of clowns, a pair of seahorses, and a pair of crabs. I noticed some tiny things swimming around after I moved the decor. I was hoping they would've been a baby seahorses... but instead I got the misfortune of whatever this is. This one was the only one that was big enough for me to catch. At first I though it was possibly a shrimp or something that hitch hiked it's way in. Now I'm thinking it might be a worm of some sort. It's all curled up in the images I've attached cause I think I injured it while I was ~fishing~ it out. It's definitely not a baby crab. It has an elongated figure. Could this be a bristleworm? I apologize for the low quality photos, this thing is seriously tiny and it was hard to get a good shot of it.
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Hey hey, just received some live rock and trying to identify this little dude. Is he a mantis shrimp? And if so, do you think he will kill all the freakin gorilla crabs if I allow him to live?? Thanks in Advance!
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Hello, I’m looking into keeping a 5 gallon reef tank and I’ve heard people recommend single gobies in a 5 gallon. Are there any types of hi fin gobies that can be kept in such a small tank? Or would I be better off with inverts and a goby? I’m new to saltwater and have only previously kept freshwater aquariums so any fish/invert recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks!
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Hey! So this will be my very first reef tank! I absolutely love the idea of a mini ecosystem in my house, so here goes: 1. What natural (Maybe organic) fish/invert food do you reccommend? 2. What tank do you reccommend for a 35-45 gallon set-up? 3. What fish/invert species do you reccommend? (The smarter, the better) 4. What corals do you reccommend for a beginner? 5. What supplies do you need to start your very own nano reef tank. Also, what brands do you think are best? 6. Any tips and tricks? Thank you!
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My pair of snapping shrimp and pinkbar goby somehow are taking a time off. The goby has moved to one side of the tank under a rock a s shrimp has stayed where they lived. It is now 4 days that they are living apart. I thought the rock cave is small and slightly moved the rocks to make more space in the original spot but the goby is still living in the other rock. I wonder what has happened that they are living apart and what can I possibly need to do to help them get back together.
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I can't figure out what this is, I have never added this to my tank or heard of it.
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Also a saltwater shrimp forum
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Found several of this guy in under the rocks, Search through several guides still couldn't ID it. Any idea? Is it harmful?
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hi guys about 10 years ago i had a 65 gallon reef that i loved! since moving to nyc i haven't set one up until now. which began as a very basic 10 gallon tank. a month in she started leaking which forced me to upgrade to something a little bigger but much nicer. so heres what i have. tank -IM nuvo 14 gallon heater-cobalt 100w lighting -current orbit marine led (light works great for the price and what i have for now) -finnex light (for refugium) filtration -purigen -chemipure -phosnet i also have the algae barn nano refugium kit. -finnex hob refugium i have about 17lbs of live rock i got from my LFS (pacific aquarium) 5lbs of live sand flow -sicce .5 silent pump (stock pump was too loud) nano koralia weekly water changes (about 2 gallons) the old tank is pictured first. i liked the rock work much more in the first tank. all together the tank is about 3 months old.
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I am receiving a red rooster wasp fish tomorrow. I asked live aquaria what he has been eating and they said Live ghost shrimp and sinking pellets. If I put him into my 30 gallon display tank, how on earth do I feed him live shrimp?? Won’t they just swim off before he even sees them? Should I injure them so that he has a better chance of finding them? Or do I just put a few in the tank and hope he finds them? I could potentially put him in my 13 gallon tank that is cycled but empty of livestock, but I’d very much prefer to put him in the main tank.
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We're just a few weeks away from the US launch of EasyReefs Easy Masstick! Product Link: https://www.coralvue.com/easyreefs-easy-masstick-fish-food New Ready-to-Use Easy Masstick—No Prep Required!You’ve probably heard of Masstick. It’s the innovative fish food from EasyReefs that you can stick on any surface of your aquarium—to your glass or rocks, for example—so fish can naturally graze on it. Hobbyists choose Masstick because it’s all-natural balanced nutrition and finicky fish love it. The only issue is it requires preparation before use. Now all that’s changed with the release of Easy Masstick! It’s everything you love about the original Masstick but now in a ready-to-use formulation that requires zero preparation.Easy Masstick At-A-Glance The only food you can stick to glass, rocks, or coral skeletons so fish can naturally graze on it. A complete and balanced food for omnivores. You don’t have to feed other foods to supplement a diet of Easy Masstick. Great for finicky eaters like Angels and Butterflyfish. LPS corals and azooxanthellate corals love Easy Masstick! Inverts do, too! Everything in Easy Masstick is from the ocean. There are no ingredients from freshwater or on land. 100% all-natural ingredients. There is nothing artificial inside. There are zero preservatives or attractants. You can mix it with vitamins and medications. It can be an invaluable tool for the oral treatment of sick or debilitated fish. How Does Easy Masstick Work?It’s easy! Just open up the jar, remove however much you’d like to feed, then knead it between your fingers. Next, stick it to your aquarium glass or rocks—wherever you like! Any surface will do. We actually recommend sticking it to several spots in your tank so that all your fish, even the less aggressive ones, can have access to the food. And that’s it! Sit back and watch your fish peck at it just like they would in nature. It’s a real treat to see your fish feeding just like they do in the ocean. Another plus is that Easy Masstick stays “stuck” for hours. Fish can come and go as they please to eat as much, or as little, as they desire. This ad libitum approach to feeding is unique to the Masstick line and allows the food to be rationed for hours rather than gobbled up in a few seconds.All-Natural Ingredients From the SeaEverything in Easy Masstick is of marine origin. There aren’t any artificial ingredients, preservatives, or attractants. Nothing has been synthesized in a laboratory. With Easy Masstick, you’re getting a truly diverse blend of natural and balanced nutrition that was created specifically for omnivorous fish and marine invertebrates to thrive.Easy Masstick Ingredients and Nutritional Benefits: Easy Masstick consists mainly of shrimp (Palaemonetes varians) that are harvested from the Veta La Palma aquaculture facility in southern Spain. They are immediately freeze-dried to maintain the nutritional value. Since Easy Masstick is mainly comprised of freeze-dried zooplankton and does not contain any fish skeletons, it is very low in phosphate relative to its protein content. Freeze-dried microalgae and macroalgae are added to the Easy Masstick food blend to satisfy the nutritional needs of a wider variety of marine fish. Easy Masstick provides an essential source of proteins, lipids rich in fatty acids (EPA, ARA, and DHA), vitamins, and carbohydrates. All are from natural sources of marine origin. Easy Masstick does not contain animal or vegetable compounds from land origin. It does not contain any ingredients that originated in freshwater. There are zero artificial preservatives. You Can Mix it With Other Foods, Vitamins, and MedicationsOne of the characteristics hobbyists loved about the original Masstick was that it could be mixed with other products. The new Easy Masstick formula is no different! You can blend it with mollusks, crustaceans, fish eggs, artemia, mysids, copepods, and rotifers. In addition to mixing with other foods, you can fortify the nutritional value of Easy Masstick by adding liquid vitamin supplements. Need to treat a sick fish? Add the prescribed dosage of oral medication to Easy Masstick to ensure it is consumed and digested properly by the fish you need to treat.Masstick is Well-Known to Satisfy Finicky EatersAnother reason hobbyists love the original Masstick is that picky eaters are drawn to it. Thousands of hobbyists around the world rely on it to feed fish that are known to be fussy eaters. Thankfully, the new Easy Masstick has that same great quality! Your Angel Fish, Butterfly Fish, Tangs, Wrasses, and other omnivores will devour Easy Masstick. You can stick Easy Masstick wherever your fish are so they are guaranteed to see it, making it one of the most user-friendly foods around. Another cool benefit is that, as your more aggressive fish feed, smaller bits fall away to where other residents of the reef can consume it.How to Feed Easy Masstick to Your FishTake a portion of Easy Masstick out of the jar and stick it on a rock, a branched coral skeleton, or the aquarium glass (preferably in the lower third), or elsewhere depending on the feeding habits of the fish in the tank.Nutrition and Ingredient BreakdownIngredients: Palaemonetes varians Microalgae Macroalgae Mineral Salt Glycerol Nutritional Profile: Protein: 29.85% Fat: 3.3% Fiber: 2.1% Ash: 15.47% Moisture: 29.35% Easy Masstick Frequently Asked QuestionsShould I vary my fish’s diet with other products?It is not necessary. The natural origin and freeze-drying of the ingredients in Easy Masstick guarantee an optimal nutritional profile for marine animals. Freeze-drying preserves the vitamins, nutrients and essential bioactive compounds that are present in live food.How much Easy Masstick should I give my fish daily?The amount varies depending on species, size, age, behavior, etc. A proper amount would be approximately 1-2% of the animal’s weight with respect to its size and age. We generally recommend placing Easy Masstick in several areas of the aquarium and observe if it is consumed in the following 30 minutes. You can increase or decrease the amount depending on the amount consumed.Can Easy Masstick be used to feed corals?Yes, for both LPS corals and azooxanthellate corals. You can provide small portions as food for corals like Cinaryna, Caulastrea, Tubastrea, Dendrophylia, etc., or you can mix it with aquarium water to create a “soup” and spread it on azooxanthellate corals with small polyps like Menella, Guaiagorgia, Minabea, etc. Sign up for our email newsletter and we'll let you know when it's arrived!
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Video of my journey setting up a mantis shrimp tank!
HingleMcCringleberry posted a topic in General Discussion
I had a lot of fun making this video. Let me know if you enjoy. The tank has been up and running for about 4 months now and I’m pretty proud of it. The video is mostly of the mantis shrimp and his funny antics. But it also shows the chronological evolution of the tank since the day I brought it home. Let me know what you think! -
Hi all ive decided to get a peacock mantis shrimp and give it its own tank. I found an old oceanic 8 gallon bio cube on Craigslist for 35$ and was thinking of using that. It fits perfectly on my nightstand. I also have a 20 gallon setup that I took down a few months ago when I upgraded. But it is a budget 20 gal setup and not exactly quiet or pretty. I think 8 gallons could be big enough for a mantis shrimp if I provide it with lots of burrowing spaces and a deep sand bed. What do you think?
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Hi all, I have a cleaner shrimp in my 30 gallon tank that seems to have a voracious appetite. I’m very happy with the small skunk cleaner and how much he tries to clean my fish. But counterintuitively, this makes me worried about my fish. I know my tank has ich since I had an outbreak in the past, but all my fish currently look and act healthy. No spots or scratching on rocks or any other unusual behavior. My largest fish, a foxface rabbitfish has been getting a lot of attention from the shrimp. The rabbitfish was also hit hardest by the ich in the past. It’s a small tank and I guess it’s not easy to avoid the manic little shrimp (the rabbitfish is moving to a bigger home soon), but the rabbitfish often swims slowly past. The shrimp jumps on and starts to clean and the rabbitfish shakes him off shortly after. Not sure if the fish is asking for it or not. Either way, my real question boils down to this: If my cleaner shrimp is cleaning my fish a lot does it mean my fish is getting sick? Even if the fish shows no signs of infection? thanks in advance to any thoughts and advice!
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I just got a tiny yellow watchman goby, and I would like to pair him with a shrimp. I’m wondering if anyone has a suggestions on the specific species of shrimp. Additionally, my goby is TINY. He's likely to be way smaller than any shrimp I get, is this a problem? Have you guys had success pairing a goby with a larger shrimp? Does anyone have any suggestions on convincing the goby and the shrimp to pair up? Thanks!!
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Cycling RSR 170 - Zero Readings, Reef Mature Snake Oil?
sylocal posted a topic in Beginners Discussion
Hi Folks, I'm currently in the cycling process of my Red Sea Reefer 170. This is my third tank. I started this tank with BRS Dry Rock, and live sand from BRS. I added a shrimp 3-4 days ago. It's beginning to disintegrate in my filter sock, still no ammonia readings. I added a small live rock and some chaeto yesterday. Before adding shrimp I began with Red Sea Mature Pro cycling kit however my readings using API & Salifert show to be 0 on everything Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite. This is after seven days... 77.3 *F 8.17 ph 34.2 salt 233 ORP Visually, the tank looks clean. No signs of diatoms. Where the $#%* is my ammonia haha?! Either this tank is cycling very efficiently and it's undetectable or Red Sea's Mature Pro cycling kit is pure snake oil. Prove me wrong. What to do next... Edit: I added the live sand and dry rock one week before beginning the cycling product from Red Sea. -
Anyone know what this could be? It looks like some kind of shrimp and I see 4 of them in my tank. They are super small and I first noticed them months ago when I would turn off all my pumps and they would just be floating on the surface until I poked at them. I do have a cleaner shrimp in my tank but I’m not sure if these could be the babies or something else. Hope it’s not a bunch of mantis shrimp.
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Yup, I like to hang upside-down over the hammer :-) Signed. Flint - The Red Blood Fire Shrimp-
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I have a 5 gallon pico with not much living things in it. however, i had an old light which helped algae growh alot which I changed last weekend. however My small C.U.C didnt clean up the thing yet. I have tons of hair algae and some red slime algae. Algae growth is slowed down, but hair algae is a fast growing algae, even in higher lightings. I have a lonely fireshrimp and getting a peppermint shrimp on wednesday 5-8 dwarf ceriths 1 rescued saltwater feedershrimp (not the freshwater variety) 1 large trochus snail(likes the glass, never on rocks,) 1 keyhole limpet, oldes C.U.C member, not the best have 1 acan, kenya tree and duncan coral and a recovering GSP (on fragplug on kenya tree so was buried in the sand in the LFS) algae infestation is bad. any good cuc members.
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I can be the first one this has happened to. I was re-gluing a pocillopora frag and while I was holding the frag down my shrimp ran up and stuck one of his claws and feelers in it. He was trying to pick it off using his other claw. Will he be able to get it off and will this cause any issues when molting?
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Sooooo....I’ve been using RPS All-Out to dip corals for years and never had (noticed?) this problem. But today I think I killed all of the shrimp in my tank with it. I must have had some one my hands, or not rinsed frags well enough. I was totally NOT aware of how toxic this stuff is to shrimp/inverts. First, while I was placing some new frags, I noticed my scarlet cleaner shrimp had apparently fallen prey to a rock anemone. I though that was super weird, as he’s totally walked across this nem before and been fine, but there he was laying there, with the nem trying to eat him. Eventually the nem relaxed, but the shrimp wasn’t doing anything but twitch. So I gently pulled him away and put him in an observation/hospital container. Then I noticed one of my sexy shrimp blowing around the bottom, not moving. Wasn’t sure if it was a molt, or a dead shrimp. Added him to the observation chamber too. Then I noticed another sexy shrimp flowing around on the sand, but coudln’t reach him. HMMM... checked the mini-maxi garden where all the sexies usually play, and they were all missing. Then I noticed my Randall’s pistol Shrimp acting really strange...out in the open, alive, but definitely not normal. In hindsight, I also remember a lot of pods floating around lifeless-like this afternoon too. I threw extra carbon in my filter, and checked with the guy who sold me frags today to ask if he had copper in his system (which, duh, he didn’t...who would put copper in a coral tank?) And I ran a copper test, just in case (zero, or below 0.1 at least.) Then I put two and two together and googled RPS All-Out. BINGO. Highly toxic to inverts. Even at small concentrations. Apparently you are supposed to run frags dipped with it in a separate quarantine tank with carbon, and rinse the frags really, really well before putting them in the display with inverts. Which it does NOT say on the bottle. But many forums show other people having the same experience. Also, another thing that makes sense now: my pistol shrimp got caught by a flower nem two weeks ago. Same situation. I saw him out acting weird, and thought “that’s strange,” and then saw him bump into the nem and get caught. When the nem loosened it’s grip, I pulled the shrimp off (but the nem kept both front claws.) The shrimp hid under shallow rock (not one of his usual caves) for the next 24 hours, then disappeared for several days. And then, one day, he was back with his watchman goby buddy excavating caves like nothing ever happened (except minus his claws still.). So...maybe some shrimp will recover? Maybe not. The two I can see now are still acting dead but occasionally twitching/moving. I feel like a terrible jerk, and a malevolent, neglectful god of my 32 gallon world. That sucks. The moral is: RPS All-Out kills shrimp. And it only takes a tiny, tiny, tiny bit. In our nano tanks, I’m sure the effect of just a little is greately amplified over a bigger tank.
