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  1. Hey all, so I have been reefing for almost a year now. I have a 24g AIO with 2 clowns (now 1), a watchman goby, and a pistol shrimp. And then a handful of blue-leg hermits, nasarrius snails and some random other snails. I had several assorted LPS, mushrooms, 2 rock anemones, some duncans, and some zoas in the tank. I usually keep my salinity at 34-35 PPT. Over Christmas we got a nasty flu that kicked our asses and I barely left my bed. Unfortunately, I am thinking my Hanna pen needed calibrated (I suck) when I did my last water change, before we get ill, because when I finally came around and tested it after a few days, my salinity was at like 23 ppt and everything in the tank was looking pretty pissed! The irony....my new ATO came while I was sick and just sat on my desk. I have gradually gotten it back up to 34 ppt with water changes, but the damage is done. EVERYTHING, except 3 mushrooms looks to be dead....including my one clownfish. My ammonia is 0, trites 0, trates 10. That is all I really test for. Is it safe to say that the salinity swing is officially what killed everything? If so, do I need to wait until I started adding corals back?
  2. ZCAMZ

    Water Help

    Hey All, First timer here, just after some advice based on recent water tests please. Hopefully these photos load up in the same order I’m looking at now... Tank was set up 05/02 and live stock added 07/02 along with a bottle of Colony. First water change 15% on 13/02 (maybe too soon?). Photo 1 (darker amonia result) was taken this morning 20/02 and I have since carried out a 20% water change as it seemed concerning. Photo 2 was taken two hours after water change but still doesn’t seem great. The results of a water test I carried out on Wednesday 17/02 we’re very similar to that of photo 2 today, went to LFS on Wednesday but they said the water was fine. Can anyone give a second opinion, am I over thinking this? EDIT: Livestock 2 clowns, tank 52l Fluval Evo, feeding 1/5 of a block of food every 2 days. EDIT2: Test kit is NT Marine Labs
  3. NicoB0817

    Best digital test kit

    I'm new to this hobby and don't want to continue coming to the fish store every week to get my water tested, but I don't want to have to deal with looking at all of those colors. I have seen 2 digital test kits, the Hanna test kit and the idip, the Hanna test kit is very expensive and I've heard the idip is inaccurate. I'm not made of money but I don't want something that's too inaccurate. Wich should I get (unless you know of any other ones)?
  4. TheMikeLane

    New Reefer Advice

    I started my first reef tank a few months ago. Its been through a cycle and it looks like it's doing good! The tank is 10g with Kessil a80 1 Kenya Tree 1 Meteor Shower Cyph 1 Clown 1 Firefish 1 Nassarius snail (laying eggs like crazy) Parameters: Salinity- 1.024 Calcium- 490 PH- 8.1 KH- 13.5 - 14 (hard to judge) NO2- 0 NO3- <1 PO4- .03 Ammonia- 0 Mg- 1400 Fe- 0 - .05 K- 400 I2- .07 - .08 I was dosing NoPOx (.2ml and <) to control algae and high PO4 before adding fish for about 2 weeks. At the same time dosing RS Reef Energy AB for the tree and cyph, which look healthy. I havent started dosing RS Foundation or Trace Elements. I have them both and my knowlege base is expanding quickly but I need some guidance. Thanks!
  5. Hey guys! So i'm approaching 3 years with my fluval m60 (24 gallon all in one). Like most I have been through struggles and learned a lot and finally have a great looking tank full of beginner coral (and my clown fish). My next move is getting an anemone which i'm pretty much sure i'm ready for since the tank is established, and water chem. is overall decent which seems like the most important for anemone including good lighting which I have. Once I get my anemone and it becomes settled I want to move into caring for stoney corals, which is what this post will be about. Right now I honestly don't tell parameters much. Only time I will is when a problem occurs and want to get a understanding of what could be causing it. Testing only includes pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. I rely heavily on weekly/bi-weekly water changes ranging from 5-20% depending on various factors, to just hope my parameters are in check. So with what I want to do I know I will have to start checking parameters more frequently as well getting a more wide spreed of what parameters to be checking for. Since checking parameters can be time consuming using chemical testing(?) compared to digital testing I'm looking to invest in digital testing for parameters that should be checked more often. What do you guys recommend testing for weekly (while doing wc). For these parameter testing I'd like to purchase digital testing so save time. Then since I want to care for advanced species what else should I test for. This is a list off the top of my head I should be testing for so please inform me if more should be include. pH ammonia nitrite nitrate calcium dKh(alkalinity) magnesium I'd love any feed back for what I should do, personal opinion, or tips/purchases that could be helpful as I will be moving to a more advanced reef system.
  6. TonySpumoni95

    Hammer Coral not opening

    Hello All! I recently purchased a 2-headed hammer coral frag from a local LFS that I thought would be a perfect addition to my tank. I've had poor luck with hammer corals in the past, as a frag I purchased months ago died within the first 48 hours of purchase. My parameters and every other coral in the tank were fine at that time, so I thought I was just dealt a bad hand. With regards to the frag I want to talk about in this post, I've had this frag for roughly 5 days, and it just doesn't want to open. The flesh doesn't appear to be deteriorating, but the mouths of the coral are agape and just doesn't appear to be in good health. Any help with regards to possible insight and solutions would be greatly appreciated. Tank specs and other inhabitants listed below. Thanks everyone! Tank: JbJ 28 gallon LED nanocube Flow: 2-266 gph pumps (connected to wavemaker that alternates pumps every 30 seconds) Light: 25W of 14K LEDs w/ 4W moonlight LEDs (meant for low-moderate light specs) Parameters: Salinity - 1.026 P.H - 8.2 Calcium - 430ppm KH - 170ppm Nitrate - 0 Nitrite - 0 Ammonia - 0 Phosphates - between 0 and .25 ppm (All parameters except salinity were measured with API kits) Fish: 1 Percula clownfish & 1 Photon Clownfish (Bonded) 1 Male Mandarin Goby 1 Yellowtail Damselfish 1 Purple Dartfish Coral/Invertebrates: Toadstool Leather Elegance Coral Red/Green Trachyphyllia Kenya Tree Coral Pink-tip green bubble anenome various polyps and zoanthids (honestly don't know all of the names) green-tipped pocillopora (hitchhiker frag with green-star polyps, has grown well) I also have a few photos posted of the tank itself and the hammer coral in question
  7. Atarius

    Experiences with NO3PO4X?

    Hi guys I've had continuous slight algae issues (cyano on the sand and hair on live rock; I also have a sulking Duncan which made me try to improve params) since taking over this tank, and have decided to do something about it. I'm using NO3PO4X consistently at the suggested dose and have seen my nitrates fall to around 10ppm from 20+ppm. However, I don't have any detectable phosphate or nitrite. At this level, should I still be getting algae growth? I would think that 10ppm nitrate and 0 nitrite/phosphate should be good enough. I'll keep aiming to bring the nitrate down with NO3PO4X until it stabilises, as per the instructions. Anyone have any ideas if I'm barking up the wrong tree or should be doing something different? Tank size (volume) - 16 gallons Tank age - 2 years (moved and rescaped 6 months ago) Lighting - AI Prime Nitrate - 10 (fallen from 20 2 weeks ago) Nitrite - 0 Phosphate - 0
  8. Hello I've just done a set of test crica. 30 mins after a 10% water change, and plan to do one every day until my next change (1 week) to see if there's anything I can spot that could be causing my algae issues, as well as try to find out why my Duncan is sulking (has been for about 2 weeks). Ammonia - 0 Nitrate - 20 Nitrite 0 pH - 7.6 Alkalinity - 9 As you can see, my nitrate levels are slightly high, which could be causing my algae issues. I will try to stick to feeding every other day, and skimming slightly wetter to see if that helps. The main issue however is my pH and alkalinity. These are clearly slightly lower than would be considered ideal. How might I go about bringing them up a touch? I'll continue to test for a week and see if instability could be the cause of my Duncan issues. Any advice I'd be grateful of!
  9. zcain

    Clowns acting strange

    Hello, I have a 14 gallon biocube tank. I have had the same two clown fish for about 3 years now with no issues. About 2 weeks back I did a water change and my test kit was out/expired and my new one was about 2 days out. I thought nothing of it because I tested the salinity and it came back at a .024. Well before I was able to test the water the clowns began to swim sideways and along the bottom of the tank. I ran to the shop where they can test the water for me and my ammonia spiked to 7-8 ppm. The fish were about to die. I did an 8 gallon change that day slowly and then 4 more each day after that for 3 days. I am now testing and checking daily and everything is coming up normal. pH 8.1, nitrates and nitrates just at 0. calcium around 460. ammonia between 0 and 0.25. kH at 143.2. Temperature is at 78. The problem is the clowns are still swimming weird and not eating too much and it has been a week of near perfect parameters. The have no red in their mouth or gills which I know is something to look for. I am wondering if it was too late or if anyone has seen them make a recovery from this issue. Thanks
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