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I can’t choose between two par 38 bulbs for my nano tank. (12”x12”x13) Have to pick between 2 par 38 bulbs, they both have 12 leds and are 36watt. One has 4 cool whites, 4 blues and 4 purple/uv. The other bulb has 8 cool whites and 4 blues. I want to grow easy soft corals.

So, for trying to light a 42" span, if my math is correct, I *might* be able to get away with using the 120W two-puck maxspect razor if I mount it around 10-12" above the surface of the water. Having a ton of PAR isn't the end of the world, but I'm trying to have this tank be primarily Montipora with a few softies or LPS scattered around the far perimeters, the rockwork will essentially just be an artsy-interpretation of a solid 5-8" tall straight-line about 2-3" from the back-glass. I think that at around 80% A and 100% blue I should be able to achieve nearly 150-200 PAR throughout the entire 6" depth-mark. But I imagine this would probably cause a near-unlivable hotspot under the center of the pucks - likely 500+ PAR, which just seems like a waste - although I could scape easily enough around it. The other Idea I have is to try to sell the newly-refurbished 120W model I have for around $300 and then replace it with three 23-watt ABI Tuna-Blue PAR bulbs, hung about 8-12" from the surface of the tank, spaced out in one of two ways; either @ 7 1/2", 21", and 34 1/2"; or @ 5 1/4", 21", and 36 3/4" with the outside two bulbs angled towards the center at 15 degrees. The downside to this plan is that I'm not certain what the PAR values will be lol, I can only work with the advertised lens-spreads (30 degree effective center and 60 degree lensing) and make cutesy little diagrams like this one (which is flawed, of course, as it assumes a single, central origin-point for the lighting and doesn't account for the 5" plane which houses the LEDS): Anyone with experience or thoughts care to offer some assistance? I may just end up buying them to trial things and then return them if it doesn't work out, I figured I can get some PAR readings in air and then subtract about 25-20% and have a decent idea of what I'll be dropping onto the animals. Appreciate any time and advice to be offered!

So my budget kind of imploded and now I'm thinking of just supplementing my Prime HD with an ABI PAR38 Tuna Blue. I've currently got my Prime sitting 9" off the water and running AB+ with 10% extra blues and like 20% more whites to compensate for the extra height and spread. (it has to light a 20-long now) So here comes the questions and advice-seeking, the way I see it I've got two main lines to go down, I can either swap the euphyllia+LPS side of the tank over to the 12 Watt or maybe the 28 watt ABI bulb and scoot the prime over and perhaps lower it so it is dead-center or perhaps slightly to the left of the maxima clam. Or I can leave the light where it is, maybe move it an inch or two to the right towards the euphyllia, and supplement the left-sps side of the tank with the 12watt ABI bulb. The main drawbacks, as best I can tell: PAR38 with LPS: I don't know how well they will deal with the change in spectrum or whether the 12watt will be sufficient to light the rightmost 6-10" (it should be?), the light will be out in the open and likely a bit ugly, the light from the HD will bleed into my Filter compartments and potentially-grow algae. PAR38 with SPS: The Duncan coral was intended for one of the far-right corners of the tank which won't really be lit well-enough by this option, I don't know if the shading/spread is significant enough from the HD, even before potentially-shifting it, that I might need the higher-watt bulb just to hit decent PAR, the light will likely still bleed into the filter but I may be able to jerry-rig some kind of shroud to it. Thanks for your time, help, and opinions!

I just got this light in the mail yesterday and when I plugged it in it looked a lot more blue then I was expecting as a majority of the LEDs are 660nm. Do our eyes not see this wavelength? This will be my new fuge light and I want to make sure I got the right one! Thanks!