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Found 23 results

  1. Review - The product itself is amazing. The stand is sturdy, UV coated, sturdy hinges, great cutouts and just looks super modern. The tank itself also looks very sleek and very well built. Also for a great price. A few cons would be I wish they provided the white AI prime light with the plus version since their stands are white. Also, the stands do not come with directions and they don't have specific directions for the cube 20 stand so someone that isn't handy like me it took a long time. Also customer service are hard to get a hold of, for me both email and voicemail took days to get a reply and you can't get anyone to answer. With that being said I don't regret my purchase I love the product and can't wait to start filling it up with goodies. Build Thread/Stocking Ideas - This is my first fish tank ever, never even owned a beta lol. So i may have a bunch of failures. Rocks - 20lbs life rock shapes (aquascaped with marco cement) Return pump - stock pump (may upgrade to sicce 1.0 to try and get it very quiet) Flow - Koralia 425 Heater - 2 x 50 watt eheim jager inTank media basket (filter floss, seachem matrix, chemipure blue) Tunzee 3155 ATO (5G jug) DJ switch that is labeled. Big Temp monitor that will alert me if temp gets off. BRS 5 stage RODI Unit Stocking 1 clown fish 1 yellow spotted goby/candy pistol shrimp pair 1 purple fire fish Lots of rock flower Anemones Mixed reef Sexy shrimp/Porcelain crab and other cuc Tank has been cycling 1 week, hopefully can add a fish in a week or two. I'm probably in the wrong hobby since I don't have patience lol.
  2. Hey everyone! Newbie here looking to grow my knowledge of all things saltwater. My husband loves his large reef tank and he just surprised me with this nano tank to peak my interest. The details: we added the aragonite sand, live rock, and premix yesterday. I tested today and my ph is 8.0, ammonia is about .135ppm, nitrites 0 ppm, and nitrates 0 ppm! My husband says he thinks it takes about to weeks to break the skimmer in. So far it’s mostly filling up with water instead of bubbles. Even with nothing moving around in there, I find myself staring. I’m so excited just dreaming about all the possibilities of this tank! I think I love the fact that it’s my own responsibility and reward. Im ready to do the work!
  3. 8 days ago I put live sand, live rock, and a premixed saltwater into my 24 gallon tank. It has a built in sump in the back with various media and a skimmer. I have been regularly testing salinity, ph, ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, and alkalinity. PH always reading between 7.8 and 8.0 ammonia hasn’t budged from .25ppm nitrate and nitrite are both 0 alkalinity at 180 I noticed my salinity was low which surprised me since the water came from my local fish store. I played around, taking about half a gallon out and adding more concentrated mix of Red Sea salt and regular RO water. It’s at 1.0235 Per the advice of someone at the fish store I added chemi pure elite to my filtration media tonight. What am I missing here? Should I put a piece of raw shrimp in there? Am I just being impatient? I didn’t expect my tank to be cycled already, just some noticeable changes in ammonia at least. Any suggestions?
  4. I used to have a 150 G Fresh water aquarium back home and that one is now my mom's. Since I moved I've always wanted to start a new one and was a little scared about the salt water aquariums. After a couple of months researching, reading and watching a lot of videos I decided to start a Fluval 13.5 Evo Nano Reef Aquarium and I'm really excited to make it grow. I started my Aquarium just 5 days ago and I have done 3 testings so far. I have dry rock and Arag-alive Pink Fiji Sand. I used Dr Timm's Chloride Ammonia as indicated in the product and Fluval's Biological Enhancer to start the cycle. I've been reading online and Dr Timm's Cycle guide and it says that you shouldn't let the Ammonia levels go higher than 5.0 so I did a partial water change on my 3rd day of the cycle. These are my current testing readings I did them with the API Test Kit: I'm just wondering if the process is going right or If I should do something. I'm in no rush to finish the cycle but wanted to know if I should keep the lights on or off and if I should add more Bio enhancer or not. Thanks a lot! ---------- This is my setup so far:
  5. Mariah

    Elmo's Tank- 4Gal IM Nuvo

    Hello! I'm Mariah (Rye). This is my first dive (pun intended) into reef keeping. I live in a small apartment and wanted as little equipment to keep it as natural as possible and after doing lots of research came across a reef group of FB (although TBH there are a lot of arsehole's on that page...it's a huge deterrent from posting questions on there haha). Then I found Nano-Reef! Huzzuh! This seemed like the right place for support and advice! Brandon's and Nathalie's tanks have inspired me to stick to basic biology rather than relying on copious testing and products. This is my tank (and hamburger phone): I have so far: Innovative Marine 4gal Nuvo AIO Filtration: AOI came with but probably won't use (I plan on having live rock and live sand how deep should my sandbed be in a 15L?) Acrylic Filter Wall w/ Overflow Media Basket Mechanical Sponge Activated Carbon Sponge Phosphate Sponge Flare Nozzle Lighting: 4 watt SKKYE Light Clamp LED Am considering getting the Maxspect Celestial 35W: worth the upgrade? All my research has suggested that the SKKYE's do ok for softies and mushrooms but this is a really low wattage, hey? probably only supposed to be used for a freshwater. Alternatively, I'm considering buying a better LED light and just installing into a regular lamp fixture. Suggestions? I have purchased: Tetra Whisper 10Gal AirPump + airstone H-B Enviro-Safe General Purpose Liquid-In-Glass Thermometer + Another thermometer to compare Cobalt Aquatics Flat Neo-Therm Heater with Adjustable Thermostat (Fully-Submersible, Shatterproof Design) 25W I will custom build an acrylic lid to minimise evaporation because the current lid won't prevent evaporation for shit. I'm planning on using Natural SW because I live near clean SW and can keep a 60L drum downstairs in the garage (cool, dark, stable temp!) and will enjoy the drive to the beach to collect every 2-3 weeks. In terms of what I'd like to keep my vision is zoas, rics, mushrooms, finger coral and maybe an open brain coral and some clams. I'm still not sure about which and how many CUC, I'd love a fire shrimp and my husband (who is not in charge of this) requested a fish (coloured me surprised) however I'm obviously really hesitant because this is such a small tank and I know having even one fish would make taking care of this much harder. What do you think? I am already so appreciative of this community and all the advice available on here already. P.s This will probably be the slowest pico ever built. I really take my time with things and want to be as knowledgable and prepared as possible so thank you in advance for your patience. I will try to update this when I can but I have a young son and a busy family so we'll see. Ta and cheers from Aus! P.p.s thinking about putting Chaeto in the overflow. Does anyone is Sydney have some?? THANK YOU!
  6. Hi everyone ?️! My name is Jammie. I've been out of the saltwater hobby for to many years to admit. When I had a tank it was a 55gal FOWLR, it crashed when I impulsively bought a fish at my lfs. I always wanted to try again. Anyway I've been researching the hobby again, because so many things have changed. I have decided to start again with a 32 gallon LED biocube. Just this week I put together the stand and wanted to share. I'll share the other equipment and modifications I plan to make soon. In advance thanks to everyone for helping me!
  7. Mr.Smith

    Fluval 5 gallon stocking

    I am hoping to get into the saltwater side of things in the near future after doing freshwater for quite a while. Unfortunately, I am limited to the small Fluval Evo 5 gallon for the foreseeable future, so I came here to try and make the most of it. I really have my heart set on a shrimp/goby pair and I would like to look into what else would be a good addition (shrimp, crabs, snails, corals?). Are there any modifications I should make to my tank before starting? What else should I know about a nano tank that isn't obvious? (parameter fluctuations, topping off) Thanks in advance! 🙂
  8. Hey everyone, so the inevitable happened and we found a 25g tank with stand that was low enough for me to be able to perform tasks without extra stools and ladders (I’m pretty short, and we had the tank on one of our highest countertops.) Our current tank is 13.5 gallons. I’m not sure how fast or slow I should be transfering livestock over once I have the tank in the right spot, cords contained & ensured everything is how I want it before livestock. We will not be adding any additional licestock at this time to try to minimize the risk. Currently livestock: -two clown fish -cleaner shrimp -6 crabs (hermit and regular) -6 snails - 1 ricordea rock - a montipora cap - one acapora - one stag - one torch - one xenia - 6 zoa mini colonies of different colors. Some Fragged I want to use the live rock that is currently in the 13.5 tank plus more as necessary (which will probably go in the refugium). I bought new sand to use as well. Any suggestions on how to best approach this? I am also thinking maybe going sandless but not sure. I like the look of the sand much more then the glass bottom.
  9. Hi everyone... Long time reader (research lol) First time poster, I am a LONG time keeper of freshwater and brackish water tanks and critters of all- from Dragon Gobies to Mollies to ACF’s/ACDF’s to Axolotl’s lol However this is my first step into the full saltwater world.... well it’s actually my sons... he is 12 and has convinced me to buy him the Coralife 32 LED tank.... I have posted on other general forums and have gotten so many opinions my head is spinning... Other than the tank and stand I have the following equipment: -Cobalt Neotherm 150W - InTank media tray - InTank (cant remember what it’s called but the part that closes in the gap between the tank and the back - I plan to have a goby and have heard horror stories) -The Hydor KPS WiFi Wavemaker - a good thermometer - regular instant ocean salt (haven’t ordered yet but this is what I plan to get and use- unless someone convinces me otherwise - a good refractometer (bought the same one I use to double check my brackish tanks- and also have instant ocean hydrometer) -mag float glass cleaner - Caribsea 20lbs of the LifeRock Shapes (I don’t think I will be using all 20lbs... probably more like 15-17lbs (I don’t have the glue or whatever for these yet so opened to the best idea to make them stick and stay!!) - I also want egg crate (I am just going to cut it to go on the rocks that touch the glass on the bottom.... not going to cover the full tank floor) but I’m not sure where to get it... I am in Canada and can only find it online at places that don’t ship to Canada... so any ideas or substitutions would be great.... - Caribsea special grade reef sand- 15lbs (aiming for about an inch on bottom so may not need the whole bag or if I need more it’s easy to get) -Already have the API saltwater master kit for my brackish tank and have ordered the reef kit for when we add corals and to monitor everything just in case) - Purigen, Matrix, Phosguard and the appropriate bags for each made by seachem -Filter floss -bottle of biospira And I am probably forgetting something lol My plans based on what I have got the most consistent advice on is: - don’t waste my money on a protein skimmer.... for a tank this size and what I plan to keep it won’t be worth it as long as I do my weekly water changes... which we will be... now keep in mind that when recommendations come in... this tank will be set up and run by my son on his own... so we are going for as simple as possible... he’s very smart and looks after his own 64g axie tank and 406 canister himself... and also helps me with all my water changes and mixes the salt for the brackish tank so he’s not completely unfamiliar with stuff.... so: Again been advised to skip protein skimmer.... keep up with W/C’s instead my plans are to install the heater into chamber 1 chamber 2 will have the InTank media basket: from top to bottom: Filter Floss Purigen and Phosguard Matrix I have also been advised that in a tank this small there is no point in installing the InTank fuge basket.... (surely the Phosguard and purigen combo along with the matrix should keep things under control and if phosphates or nitrAtes get too high I’ll just add more (either purigen or phosguard) until we know how much we will need.... but I’m sure 1 bag of purigen will be fine as my tap water has natural occurring nitrAtes at like 60-80ppm and 1 bag brings my 75g tank down to 5ppm- so in theory it should be able to handle the 32g (which isn’t even quite 32g’s and less when I add sand and rock) so I had thought about just dropping in another bag of matrix beside the InTank media basket in the empty spot... just for more bio.... So hopefully so far so good lol Let me know if you have better ideas or changes... keeping in mind it will be a 12 y/o doing the work.... Really the only benefit (and no one has really convinced me as I have read many contradictions both by science and by peoples advice is that maybe I should run a fuge with Cheato to make pods My easy solution to this is why can I not just dose the tank with the line of pods made by seachem therefore avoiding another thing to buy plus something else for him to take care of.... right? We will only ever be keeping easy soft corals and obviously it won’t be for a while.... so the stock LED lights should be fine I’m assuming.... Now I would like to add an ATO but I am not quite sure where to start with this tank... from what I gather you can buy the whole kits (pump and all) but I have no idea which ones to look for or really where to put the sensors and such (I believe in chamber 3).... honestly I’m not quite sure how they completely work other than some of the ones I have looked at have like a storage container where you put your fresh water and it automatically tops up the tank from evaporation and such.... so some guidance there would be nice... again looking for something reliable but cost effective... it’s a dark room so no sunlight hardly at all only light really will be if he has his lamp or TV on... plus the LED’s (when on) but I still think it’s a good idea as I know it becomes annoying with my 100 tanks I already have constantly topping them off lol.... size is also going to be a component... so the more compact the better... also because we only have a brackish tank using a large spoon and 5g bucket has been sufficient enough for mixing salt (we just temp match the water and do the water change right away and it has never swayed much from 1.005... maybe up to 1.008 but that’s ok for brackish however not ok for swings with saltwater so I am looking for recommendations on a powerhead that’s decently priced but will not break after 2 months or what your guys preferred methods are for water changes... his plan was to mix it up in his room with temp matched water and then just use a smaller container like a juice jug or such to pour the water in (taking it out is not a problem as we have a separate python from the freshwater tanks) so if there is an easier way for him to get the water in the tank I’m all ears lol and again a brand of power head (be specific so I don’t screw it up lol) or something for better mixing.... and water changes ** (I have no choice but to use distilled water but I am absolutely sure it’s 100% actual distilled water... I have a family member in the plumbing business and I made them test it for everything and it’s got nothing- others had tried to convince me to use RO water but my tap water is so bad I would have to buy a large expensive one (I have nitrAtes, copper, a water softener and other crap) So I’m fine with the distilled water because again I am certain it’s 100% pure....plus my faucets are not the norm... I would have to like disconnect the whole thing (if I even could) to get it attached (and they are crazy expensive) and I’m assuming I’d be going through cartridges like crazy and it probably still won’t remove everything) next i I believe would be stocking: for our CUC and Fish stocking we have went back and forth and are not sure on numbers and we want a variety (of CUC) that will each kind of do their own thing... This is sort of where we are but not entirely sure on number or if this will be overstocking the tank (keep in mind I’m only using a max of 15lbs of sand- and around 14-17lbs of rock) - 1 x Royal Gramma - 2x Clownfish (these are the only MUST have) - 1x Watchman Goby - 1x pink line wrasse (this was suggested to me by many however I’m having a hard time finding out exactly what the real name is- when I put it into google I get a bunch of different things but they are talking about the smaller more docile one so if someone can help me out with a better name that would be great so I don’t end up with the wrong fish because (and I maybe should have mentioned this) I have a family owned chain store here... not like Wal-Mart or Petco... they started out with 1 store here in my town and now have about 5 in the surrounding towns as our Walmart’s and such don’t sell fish.... so when I place an order for anything it comes separate from their order in my own box and I grab it as soon as the shipper drops it off and go home with it... even if they order more of the same fish mine always are separated right from their shipper) sorry now I will continue.... 1x Randall’s pistol shrimp (choosing him because of the neat relationship between him and the goby) 1x Scarlet cleaner shrimp 3x Trochus snails 3x Cerith snails And wanting a 3rd snail... something that will accomplish what these guys won’t like eating certain algae’s or turning up the sand bed The one that was recommended but I am hesitant on is 2x Astraea Snails- my concern is that they will get flipped over and one of us won’t notice and he will get eaten by something else in our tank or die or something lol Now 1: would that be overstocking the new 32g Coralife? Should I choose something else over the Astraea snails that may accomplish more and I won’t have to flip over? I’m not looking for something that’s going to reproduce like crazy (I know some of those snails will but I’ve been told most of the eggs will die off or will be eaten... and once they grow I can always sell stuff back to my LFS as they know the care that goes into my fish.... I apologize that was so long winded (and I still probably missed stuff lol) but if anyone has the time and experience to read through my mess of a post I would love to hear any changes I should make and the reason behind it... and the stocking is a big thing... we don’t want to over stock etc (also if you could tell me approximately how many of the cuc to start with (and I know to add the fish sort of least aggressive to most aggressive- will save the 2 clowns or wrasse for last... unless someone has a better stocking list I am all for it... the only thing that CANT leave is the clownfish and I’d like to keep the goby and Randall’s shrimp combo because I think that would be cool to watch... other than that... fairly simply... although as I mentioned he has experience with all sorts of fish... like bumblebee gobies and our dragon goby to the frogs and his axies (we hand feed all 4 of our frogs and all 3 of our axies) so the fish don’t need to be the most simple... more looking for some hardy and nice bright stuff that will make the tank have different colors etc but again no idea if with this list if I’m over stocked or under stocked lol Brand new world to me.... If there is anything equipment wise that I have missed let me know (I may already have it and just forgot to list it lol) Thank you in advance for anyone who takes the time to help us.... just please note I have a brain Injury which makes it hard to read long posts (and write them! 😫) so if it’s not too much trouble when answering questions and moving on to the next topic could you put the spaces like I sort of did with my post... it helps me sort through and read it easier 🙂
  10. So as the title says,I'm converting to saltwater tanks. I definitely have a tight budget because I want to get my feet wet,not just cannonball in. In my 10g,I've already upgraded my aquarium with the Aquaclear powerfilter 110V. My tank currently stays around 76-77 degrees. I definitely want to house a pair of clownfish and a cleaner shrimp...and corals in the near future. I'm so scared of lighting and don't want to buy the wrong thing for corals. I'm getting a custom glass lid so I can't have anything clipped to the tank in the back,so for now I prefer the lights that slightly hover above the aquarium cover. Since price is strict,here's some lights I've run into on Amazon...let me know what you guys think 🙂 Green Element EVO 18"-22" LED Aquarium Light Fixture - Reef Capable 10x3W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00APBO2XU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nFPtBbHM2NND9 EVO 12 LED Aquarium Light Nano Marine Coral Reef Cichlid 6x 3W 3 Watt 30-40 cm by Odyssea https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N0PJK0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TFPtBbVPXKD1Q SLR Lighting LED Aquarium Lighting – All Sizes for Fish Tanks, Terrariums, Vivariums – Plants, Coral, Seaweed – Natural Night & Day Light Patterns w/ Brackets & Remote Control [Size: 14-22 In.] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0759NLDSB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dGPtBbAF0Y92Y
  11. Hey reefers, So I finally got my tank and im so excited to get started, its a 40 gallon tank. I went with a AquaClear110 Hob filter (Hang on back) an Eheim 150w heater and a saltwater refractometer for today. Im heading back to the Lfs tomorrow to get all of the other goodies like test kits, power-head, lighting, dry rocks, carbon and other stuff like that and possibly a Hob protein skimmer. Im not looking to put many rocks in and only a couple corals also not to sure what stock is going in as of right now just want to get the water parameters thing down pat. Tell me what you think about my setup and feel free to leave any advice that you think would help, Thanks
  12. Hey guys I just made an account as well setting up my first tank. I decided to purchase the fluval evo 13.5 as so many others have. I’m no newbie to the hobby having freshwater tanks, but quickly being bored as I could neglect them and they would still look as I left them, I was up for a challenge. I am currently running it stock with live sand and rock to speed up cycling. The filtration is still the same, but with the addition of filter floss, purigen, and matrix in the first chamber. I’m looking forward to adding livestock to this tank soon. So far my ideas are clownfish, a yellow clown goby, a mandarin dragonet, and an orchid dottyback. My preferable choice would be the orchid dottyback with another fish. I understand that some people think that two fish is the maximum bioload for a tank this size. I’d be happy to hear your guys’ thoughts.
  13. Hello all, (not sure if this is the right forum but wanted to ask) I think my new tank has started going through the “uglies” but I wanted to make sure this is normal and nothing bad (read horror stories or dinoflagellates). My rocks now have rust colored algae on it. is it cyano, diatoms or something else? (The second picture has a string thing with a bubble. It’s a piece of my hair that I removed after I noticed ? apparently I shed when doing water changes.....)
  14. BeefyReefy

    New Reefer! Advice welcome!

    Hi Peeps! New to the reefing hobby - Recently cycled my 54L/14USGAL reef aquarium and started out with a couple of clowns. Next step is a CUC consiting of 1 Hermit and 1 Fire Shrimp and then in a couple months some softies. My tank stats/parameters are as follows. • 54 Litre • RO/DI Water 0ppm • 5kg 2 Year Matured Live Rock • Tetra Marine Salt SG 1.025 • 2" Arag-Alive Live Fiji Sand • 7w Arcadia Blade Marine Lamp • 1 x 1600 l/ph Koralia Nano • 1 x 900 l/ph Koralia Nano • Interpet 3 in 1 filter system • PH - 7.8 (bit low I know) • KH - 11dkh • CAL - 480ppm (bit high...) • Ammonia 0ppm • Nitrite 0ppm • Nitrate 0-5ppm • Phosphates 0ppm • Temp 26°c / 78.8°f • 20% WC weekly Light Cycle Blue and White 10 hours Blue 8 hours Lights out 6 hours Still trying out different foods on the clowns, Hikari Marine S pellets and Frozen Mysis. Would be great to get some advice on my tank stats. I am trying to do this properly and want to get off a good start so any advice is welcome! Happy reefing! ??
  15. Hey all, So while I'm figuring out lighting, MarineDepot drops a bomb on the price of the AI Prime HDs for now only $200. And here I thought my mind was made up. Well, after some research again, now I'm debating. So I've come with a couple questions for those who have been around since LEDs have been the hot item. I'm trying to find a semi-concrete answer to what light is capable of maintaining an SPS tank. However it seems that a lot of the answers are either not clear or indifferent at best. And search results haven't been helpful either. So with that being said: My tank to be built is a standard 10 gallon AGA tank. Which is more reputable? The AI's or the Nanobox? Which is capable of maintaining an SPS tank of this size? (Standard 10 Gallon Tank) I assume both can be used as a refugium light with the proper focus in the proper spectrum? I'll be buying two of the ones I decide on to simplify running things. Thanks in advance for helping me learn more about LED tank lighting!
  16. Hello, I’m wondering if someone can help identify this thing I noticed in my tank today. I did see this originally on one of my small purple snails and though it was part of the shell but now this thing is on the back wall of the tank. Kind of looks like a pill bug. My other snail has one on it to unless it has also moved.....
  17. megan84

    15 gallon reef

    I don't have earlier pictures, so please forgive the middle of the road start. My tank is about 10 months old and I'm currently trying to decide what all I would like to add. As you can see, coraline algae isn't an issue, but I can't decide on what corals I would like to add. Current set up: 15 gallon HOB filter 2 Hydor Koralia Nano circulation pumps Coralife light with blue and white bulbs 12lbs live rock Apex monitoring system (overkill I think, but it was a gift) Corals: 1 torch 2 frogspawn I had a zoa that didn't make it as well s a Kenyan tree coral that my hermit crabs decided to eat No rush right now just 3-4 hermit crabs and maybe 6 snails. My original plan was to have a very low tech tank reliant on natural filtration and the pump and HOB are basically for additioinal water movement. I would like to create a garden effect with the corals, and I will eventually try adding back in a fish or two. I'm not having much luck in that department. I would love any suggestions for corals etc. I'm feeling like I'm shooting blanks on deciding what I would like to add. While the two corals on the right do my seem to be dying, they've not spread or grown much in tthe 6 months they've been in. The bottom one however has nearly doubled in size. The torch closes up like that about the same time each day, and the white was my corals response to a target feed (normal?) Anyhow, enough rambling. I'll update as I progress.
  18. Hello all! just discovered this site and forum, giving the Aquarium Diary a try.. I decided after years of running planted, freshwater tanks that it's time to advance into something more challenging. My freshwater tanks were 55 gal and 2 ten gal, with a couple terrarium type Betta "tanks" spread about the house. Now I am down to one 10 gal freshwater and the newer beginnings of a salt water 6 gal. Nano tank. It is a Fluval 6 G on 3rd week of cycling. My hope is that the tank will not be high tech, I love some of the Nano and Pico tank designs shown on this site and they are so inspiring. this Nano was started in part because the entire Refugium thing is a bit confusing and seems more complicated than just running a Nano tank without one. So here it goes as of today; Tank- Fluval 6 gal cube (originally a freshwater tank retired to the garage) Filter- well currently its a no brand name with sponge, no media, for 10 G with spray bar removed to provide more of a wave type circulation, seems to work. 50 W heater - no brand from china Current inhabitants; 2 Hermit Crabs, 2 roundish looking snails, and somehow i inherited a soft coral (i think?) that the LFS had put in my bag along with the snails. see photo below. no idea what type of soft coral it is but too far to drive to return it and i cant beat free (frag?). I didn't think my tank would be ready for corals yet though but the thing has not died so far , possibly could be more green looking but that could be the lighting? I've been looking through photos online but either the coral is NOT happy so doesn't look the way it should or i'm not knowledgeable enough to identify it. Lighting- is currently a Fluval Halo LED, it does switch from blue to white manually but its a crappy light, the new but small light for this tank will be delivered Monday. I have learned to turn off all lighting for water changes and that has seemed to help., the new light yet to arrive is here; Amazon.com- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LJC8HL/ref=pe_861660_138883610_fxm_4_0_n_id No skimmer or refuge thing, doing daily water changes of 1 gallon (trying to control nitrates and ammonia) combined with a 9$ filter, 14$ heater and a inexpensive light from amazon on the way. Current water testing shows: Salinity 0.24- Salt is Red Sea Pro and mixed myself after purchasing poor quality and low salinity from LFS, i gave up threw all the purchased salt water out and started over with my own mix using their RO water ( though i tested it first). Lesson 2 learned, always test all water prior to adding to tank. (lesson 1, don't start a saltwater tank without more research and all supplies) Ammonia Zero to .25 ppm (its kinda hard to read but in the middle of that) Nitrates no. 3, 5 to 10 ppm So far everything seems happy even with some nitrates and ammonia, lighting is an issue hence new light on the way. I did observe some rock bleaching initially so until the new light arrives i am using the blue light more often, then switch on the white light for an hour or so (or when i see the coral close up)., trying to gradually extend the daylight time to 12 hours then hopefully the new light will be here and we can do it right with a timer. My first observation; Was having some difficulty getting to the correct salinity level due to odd advice (well now i know), and purchasing premix from my LFS, which tells me immediately that if I create a much larger tank i may be mixing own and having a RO/DI system in place. week 1 was daily water changes of more than 40% trying to get a stabilized salinity due to a combination of advice received from 4 LFS that we visited. Mainly what they thought mine should be, and what salinity theirs actually was compared to what they said it was at. after throwing it all down the drain in frustration I mixed my own and got above the . 16 i was getting from theirs. After applying some tips learned in the Reef.com forums things have calmed down. Salinity is at a more acceptable level and my creatures are doing well so far, the coral I recently acquired doesn't seem to be doing too badly, it must be of a hardy variety. My hope is to make this mainly a coral tank with some inverts and maybe a Goby so as soon as ammonia and nitrates more in control ill be starting to obtain a collection of Soft Corals then possibly a small fish, i might add one more crab too., they are sorta cool. I am researching fish though since was hoping for something more interesting than a Goby. Originally i was thinking there would be some soft coral and a small clown fish but now sorta feel it wouldn't be fair to the fish to be in such a small tank. I feed the inverts a sliver of frozen shrimp every other day so as not to pollute my tank but initially the LFS told me to feed Bloodworms which they refused to eat and just polluted the tank. Haven't noticed any Algea yet and it sounds like i need some to grow before the tank is considered established. The hermit crabs have chosen new shells from a few I placed in the tank to keep them away from my snails and their pretty shells. So that is all for now, gonna see how this goes and will give an update next week after the new light arrives. Thank you for letting me participate and i appreciate greatly any advice anyone offers by way of comments to the diary.
  19. Lugmos12

    New nano build

    Hey yal, I'm new to the forums. I've been keeping freshwater tanks since about 2010. I have a 65 gallon freshwater with goldfish and 5 gallon planted betta. I want to start a nano reef tank, probably a 10g or 15g - maybe 20g. I don't want to start too small (5 gallon) because I know that I will want to upgrade eventually. As for stock, I want to have a pair of percula or ocellaris clowns, a few soft corals, and maybe (and this is a big maybe) an anemone down the road. I want a minimalist look. I've looked at IM Nuvo series, the Fluval EVO, and nano Cubes as potential options. I'm just undecided at this point. I also don't want to rush it and regret anything later. What I do know for sure is that I don't want to run pass $400-500 in budget. If anybody has any tips or recommendations on what brands, lights etc. let me know.
  20. t_fins

    Stocking Timeframes

    So my Biocube 29 has been up and running for about a month. Cycle has completed. Current parameters are 1.026, 0 amm 0 nitrite >10 nitrate. Diatom bloom is over. I do 25% water change weekly. Removed bioballs and replaced with DIY media basket(filter floss and chemipure) I currently have 2 maroon clowns(received as Father's Day gift and I know they will have to be rehomed to larger tank soon) a small CUC (3 turbos, 2 astera snails, 4 hermits) and one Frogspawn frag(2 heads) My question: I know I need to go slow with fish (want to add 1-2 more small fish) and I should probably wait at least 2-3 months for invertebrates and 9+ months for an anemone. But how slow do I need to go with coral? Can I add frags weekly? Monthly? More than one at a time? I'm primarily stocking with softies and LPS as I haven't upgraded from stock lighting yet.
  21. I have an idea for a 10 gallon tank setup and I really want some advice and criticism on my plans.I have a 10 gallon tank and a stand that i built for it. I plan on using this DIY PVC overflow(youtube.com/watch?v=UZytENJZtJw&t=162s) down to a 10 gallon sump hidden in the stand. I will have a ball valve in line to adjust flow from the overflow and also a ball valve on the line from the return pump.For livestock in the tank I would really like to get a small clownfish and maybe a goby. I really love the frogspawn, hammer, and torch corals as well as zoas. Maybe pulsing xenias on a rock in the sandbed to keep them from tanking over the tank. Also I plan to put some type of cleaning crew in to keep everything clean.I cant remember how much sand I will need, but I was thinking about 10 lbs of live sand and 10 lbs of live rock for the display and then more rubble and sand in the sump for filtration.The want to follow this(youtube.com/watch?v=_-oanakiI7k) for my sump build. Basically 3 chambers, with the overflow pipe running into a filter sock. In that filter sock I want to put chemipure blue nano. In the second large well I want to put the sand and rubble rock and maybe macro algae like chaeto. Maybe even introduce some copepods into this section of the sump. Then the next is a bubble trap and the final section would be used for the pump. I would like to know what size pump would be good for a 10 gallon tank, and also how many times per hour should the water flow through the sump?Eventually I plan on adding a DIY ATO if this is feasible.Here are just some of the questions I have so far!QuestionsWhere should the float switch for the ATO be located? In the tank or in the sump?What type of light do i need? I don't want to get too crazy in terms of what corals I want to keep because a.) its only a 10 gallon tank and b.) I don't want to spend a whole lot of money on exotic coral species.How often should i do water changes and how much water to change?How do I know what size pump to use in my sump?Do I need to use a powerhead, or would the return pump add enough to provide enough motion in the tank?According to the video the pic overflow will be 352gph. Is this too much for the tank I'm doing? I could use a smaller pipe and reduce this, or add a ball valve to reduce this. If i continue with this would a 400 gph pump be good enough or should i go with a 500 with a ball valve in the line to reduce the flow?
  22. ShrimpyPhil

    Hello

    Hello All I've just begun my nano-reef adventure. I'm using a 60ltr glass aquarium, which originally held our platy babies. The lighting has been changed from a Tropical Daylight tube to a "Marine" tube, but I'll wait and see how that goes. I've also got 10kgs of live sand and 5kgs of Real Reef live rock, circulation is taken care of by a Fluval CP1. Heating is care of the original heater 50/100w I can't remember which at the moment. I have set this tank up to house shrimp. I just love watching them go about there day . I know I'm going to be waiting a while before adding any livestock, but I'd like to know how long does it take for Live Sand to settle as I added the whole bag as per the instructions and now have my own captive cloud! I've turned the pump off in order to allow the sand/cloud to settle, but won't this harm the critters in the rock/sand? Thanks for your time, and I'll add pictures as progress is made. Phil
  23. Hey all, So here's the deal. I'm new this forum, and forums in general. I am asking for any help or advice that you guys may have for me to help me better my tank and get it running to top quality! I am desperate to successfully house a reef tank and definitely don't trust all the guys at my LFS. My background: I have attempted a reef tank back in 2013, but I unfortunately quickly succumbed to the many problems that come with reef tanks. I have always had a love for the ocean and reef tanks so I decided to why not give it another try and this time, do it right! So now, I am currently running a 28 gallon JBJ Nano cube Intermediate LED. I will add pictures to show you how I have it set up. It is equipped with an Eshopps Nano Skimmer, heater, stock pumps, and stock lights in the hood. I put the skimmer in the back center compartment where the stock media basket would normally go. I would like to use the media basket, but don't think I have anywhere to put it since the skimmer is in the center and will not fit anywhere else. To make up for no media basket, I put a bag of Chemi-pure Blue in the compartment next to the skimmer, so it gets water flow and that way, I can still run carbon. I also put a little bit of filter floss right in front of the back overflow box so it can trap any unwanted particles. I do have an extra 250 Gph powerhead that is attached to the front left of the tank, but it is not on and running at the moment. Still trying to debate wether or not I actually NEED that much flow (maybe you guys can help me). As far as live stock goes, I have as follows: -20 pounds live rock -10 pounds dry rock -20 pounds live sand -1 maroon clown -1 firefish -4 Astrae snails -6 blue legged hermits -1 peppermint shrimp -1 palythoa frag plug (was given to me for free by my LFS) This whole tank and set up has been up and running for about a month and a half now. I initially started with just the 20 pounds of live rock and 20 pounds of live sand to get my tank started. There was little to no die off, since everything was live and from my LFS that is less than 2 minutes away. So after 2 weeks of regularly checking the water, my levels never spiked. It all stayed at 0 and my nitrates never went past 1. I will add that I did not run my lights during this entire time. So after the 2 week point, I decided to add a maroon clown. I let the tank sit about another week and half with just the clown, still with no lights, until I realized I still had my dry rock from my previous tank in 2013. So I boiled and cleaned the living hell out of that dry rock, and added about 10 pounds of it to my tank (this was about 2 weeks ago). So after letting the dry rock settle for about 2 days, I performed my first water change. I did a 25% change, and then went and picked up my CUC. I got 6 Astrae snails, 6 blue legged hermits, and 1 peppermint shrimp for the small amount of aiptasia I was hoping he would get. He still hasn't. Anyways, after acclimating my CUC, I put them in the tank and only ended up losing 2 snails within the next 48 hours. Not too worried. It's just a snail. So at this point after putting in my CUC, I let them do their work for about 2 days. Then I went to my LFS and picked up my Firefish, as well as the free Palythoa frag plug I was given. I acclimated them both, and are both doing well to this day. My current parameters are as follows: Ammonia-0 Nitrite-0 Nitrates-<1 Ph-8 Alk-9 Ca-390 Phosphates- <.2 Now today, all my livestock seems to be doing well. My clown and firefish are alive and eating. My shrimp only comes out at night. Lost 2 snails, not sure why but will get more CUC as my tank matures. I have 3 very small aiptasia growing, and my peppermint doesn't seem to care about it. They never seem to open up, or grow too big so I'm not too worried about it right now, but I will definitely keep my eye on it. I also have some Caulerpa brachyus growing on 2 of my rocks. It seems to have seeded from the live rock. Again, not too worried about it since it is used as a nutrient export, but will definitely monitor it(what are your thoughts on Caulerpa?). The frag plug seems to be doing well to my knowledge! I expect to do another water change this upcoming Tuesday. NOW, I know that is a lot and nobody may even reply, but it is still worth the try for me. So given everything I said, what are your guys' thoughts? Am I doing this right? Is there anything I'm forgetting or doing wrong? What are your opinions on my methods? If there's anything I'm forgetting to mention, please ask or let me know! ALL ADVICE IS GREATLY APPRECIATED! Thank you everyone! This is my tank currently running
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