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Found 19 results

  1. Hello I just set up my first marine tank on October 23. It is a 20long ends up holding 16gallons total. I'm Using a koralia 240 and a 20 hob (filled with polyfill), running a willis 165watt light (8 blue and 4 white on the control knobs) Added 2 damsel fish 3 days ago and a Gsp today (I'll post pics when it opens up). Ammonia 0 nitrite 0 nitrate was barely detectable. If anyone had any advice or tips that's would be awesome I'd love to learn all I can! A couple questions I had was how often do i feed and should I use a glass lid.
  2. Nutri-Sea Ocean Water CarribSea live sand Carrib Sea Life Rock 10 lbs Dry 10 lbs Live Kessil A80 Tuna Blue Hydor AUQAMAI Cobalt MJ 606 2 filter socks Poly filter 2 pouches of Chemipure Blue - less than recommended amount 2 Oscellarus Clownfish 1 Skunk cleaner shrimp 2 hermit crabs 5 bumble bee snails 2 margarita snails 3 Nassarius snails Zoa Frag Hammer Frag Current Setup END OF WEEK-1 END OF WEEK 4 7 Weeks in
  3. My tank has seemed to develop the infamous dino outbreak guys... I've also noticed they've wiped out my copepod population and I've lost 2 out of 3 snails which has solidified my diagnosis...unfortunately I thought I had a diatom bloom in the earlier stages. I want no chemicals and no peroxide involved whatsoever, I'm trying to go all natural and then if that isn't successful then I will result to chemicals / tank breakdown and restart. My plan of attack is this: I'm currently on day 1.5 of blackout out of 3.I took a tiny peek and can see that the algae on the sand is 50% eliminated. (I'm also running an airstone). My theory is, at the end of the day I need to replenish my copepod population to prevent these kinds of outbreaks from happening again. On day 3, I plan to add the copepods (at night) and then dose phytoplankton according to package instructions. I'm figuring I'll be attacking the dino's while they're weak and hopefully the copepods will finish the job.. What are your opinions ? Have any of you tried this method of attacking dino's? What have your best method's been to eliminate this pesky algae?
  4. Hey, So now that I have saturated myself with many hours of countless reading, I am ready build and manage a tank. I decided to go with this route because of equipment I already had. 10 gallon all in one setup. A very good starter read is here by steelhealr http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...;hl=submersible the inspiration for this build and help came from lil'wrasse cool http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...126726&st=0 I went into greater detail than most of you will need but these are questions I had when I was starting so... bear with it. Now for the pics, This is for a standard 10 gallon fish tank. The silocone will fill in the gaps so hair pin precision is not needed here. the bulkhead how it looks That is where I am for now. I will post more with fuge and siliconed. bzphotog
  5. Meme's Nano Tank

    Meme's Fluval M90 Build

    Hi ya'll, I'm new to Nano-reef forum and forums in general. I have a new Fluval M90 36-gallon AIO tank and stand. Petsmart had it on clearance as they do not keep salt tanks in the store and so I got it for a third of the retail price. ? From my previous experience in the salt tank world with an EVO Spec 5, I am taking this one s-l-o-w-l-y. I have been researching things over the past month and created wish lists. I'm keeping with the stock items for the time being but if they aren't up to par (pun intended), I will replace them. I have already placed my Life Rock by Caribsea; that took about 4 hours. I have made a screen top to keep my future fish from jumping out and built a filter media stand. I am currently awaiting the delivery of my Arag-Alive Special Grade Reef substrate. I'll be going to my LFS to get water as I haven't yet invested in a RO/DI system. I'm hoping to be adding the sand and water sometime this next week. To expedite the cycling process I will be adding Bio-Spira from Instant Ocean. Let me know what ya'll think and follow my tank successes and learning opportunities. ?
  6. No sure what this stuff is growing in my tank.. I see a couple rocks covered in it, I use a tooth brush to scrub it off and snails also usually eat it but it's annoying to see... Here's my readings, PH looks a bit pink because of the flash... Tank is about a month and 2 weeks old now... I do a 5G water change with RODI water every Saturday or Sunday and give a good cleaning, is my RODI water maybe an issue? Or my feeding habits? I don't really feed my fish all that much. Maybe half a cube of mysis shrimp every morning. My tank is a 40G Nuvo, my filter setup is (right to left) 1. Media basket with filter floss, cheato, then live rock 2. Water hearter with 3 mangroves 3. Water pump 4. Seachem Purigen (Saw it turning yellow yesterday, time for change?) And Seachem Matrix (Saw a couple really dark rocks, time for change?) 5. Tunze 9001 Skimmer
  7. Current setup Tank Nuvo 40G AIO Oolite Ocean Direct Live Reef Sand 40 pounds 46 Pounds of Live Cured Rock Livestock 2 Blue Green Chromis 5 Hermit crabs, One got eaten for his shell:( Saw his legs this morning. Heater EHEIM Jager Aquarium Thermostat Heater Wavemaker/Controller Hydor Koralia Nano Aquarium Circulation Pump 425GPH Hydor Koralia Evolution Aquarium Circulation Pump 750-850GPH (comes in tomorrow) Hydor Smart Wave Circulation Pump Controller ATO Tunze USA 3152.000 Automatic Top off Nano Osmolator for Aquariums Under 55-Gallon Light Radeon XR15W Pro Gen w/stand Extra Stuff Innovative Marine - Gourmet Defroster Selcon Vitamin Fish Good Dr. G Brime Shrimp Guy Loaded Seachem Stability 2 Bottles of TurboSTart on day 1 One Media bag loaded with Marineland's Premium Activated Carbon put in 3rd chamber (left to right). Going to add another today. in 2nd chamber.
  8. Kvasir

    Kvasirs' Fresh Start

    Edit - 10/22/2017 - A new plan based on cost and fit, but first, a new theory. The Previous Plan: A 25g Cube with a custom refugium, using AI Prime HD's and various other malarkey. Why a new plan: Since coming back with a renewed interest and wallet for nano/reefing, I've been reading a lot. Mostly about the revolution of LED lights since they were a few thousand for a questionable product, PAR levels and requirements, and refugium-only nutrient/phosphate filtration. Over the past couple weeks, the wife and I have been reading, discussing, looking, reading, and discussing more. They say with age comes wisdom - I have started to think wisdom is patience as had I been younger I would of jumped for the 25g Cube tank and went wild with setup without planning. Needless to say, I'm being more reserved and patient this time around, constantly reviewing information. So what's this all mean? A good part of this post is me putting the idea down somewhere, where I can come back read/review it and further contemplate (Over some quality tea in the AM and scotch or beer in the PM). I'm looking at this project as both a personal experiment in control and perseverance. As a younger reefer, I was too apt to tear down and restart or move to a bigger system to such a level it was unsustainable. A lesson learned and the method that will be applied here is the following: Consistency, Naturalism, and recycling what I can from my 10-years-ago youth. So what is the new plan? It's three simple principles: First and foremost, we're recycling what I may have left-over from my previous setups, should those pieces still exist. I'll have an itemized list below. I had three setups. A 3.5g Picotope, an 8g Biocube all-in-one, and a 20g long prop tank with a 2.5g rubble refugium/bubble-guard that I custom built from a 2.5g AGA tank. I think there's an old protein skimmer and maybe even an old Metal Halide light that had maybe a few months of use before it was broken down and taken to my parents basement after college, and various other odds and ends. Second, we are limited on size and weight. A younger me threw caution to the wind and used a TV stand for his first cube, thinking it was a perfect solution. However, I now realize that 8lbs per gallon of water and a multiple of two or three of total water weight is a good number to make sure your stand can hold. So we're going to size down from the initial size of 25g and stay around 8-10g for the display tank. If I have a leftover Biocube, that would be perfect as I'll be doing some DIY to make it better than what an all-in-one can offer. More on that later. Third, I want to go for a no-water-change tank to increase simplicity of maintenance from a physical requirement and time-requirement. Yes, this is including a larger-than-usual refugium. After a lot of research, doing many chemical formulas, and math I believe it should be possible. I had this epiphany when watching a "New to me" tank maintenance video. I'm going to elaborate, or at least try to, the best I can. I believe the core issue I'm seeing is that the idea that water changes are all a tank needs is mathematically incorrect. Most people say "20% water changes are very important! They replace trace elements and chemicals that are required for reefs and fish while removing nitrates and phosphates!" Now, stop and look at that statement - Speaking from a long-term standpoint, it's totally incorrect. I'm going to try to break this down next. Why I'm starting to believe water changes are total bunk when considering the long-term health and growth of fish and corals: Let's start with a simple concept of a hundred gallon tank. Most people suggest 20% water changes, which equates to 20 gallons of water. Simple, right? Well, let's complicate this. Let's say (for the sake of example) every gallon of water was a complete molecule of nitrate. If we do a 20% change of this water, we're still left with 80 gallons of nitrate! While we're reducing this to ppm in reality, you're still leaving room for a continual build of nitrates and phosphates. You're taking less than half on a regular basis. If the amount of nitrates accumulating over the course of a week is more than 80 in this example, then you're fighting a losing battle. Now sticking with this same theory, people say that water changes replace essential trace elements such as iodine, calcium and so-on. Again, for the sake of simplicity let's say that in that imaginary hundred gallon tank has a bunch of corals in it. Every week, they use 10% of the total trace elements within the tank. Now, if we remove 20% of water and replace it, we've replace 20% of 10% from a total of 100 gallons. What's this mean? What is the point of this? Well, to put it simply, a 20% water change is fighting a losing battle. You'll eventually reach a null point where you'll be fighting ZERO trace elements and a level of nitrates and phosphates that are all but lethal or encouraging for algae growth. This is why I believe I've seen over my history of reefing an eventual 'mini-crash' or a sudden bloom of basic algae and a loss of corals/fish. Even with weekly water changes, there is going to be that eventual "Event Horizon" where a tipping point is reached. So how do we combat this: I believe tanks that run refugiums have a natural 'ringer' in their corner. The nitrates and phosphates are kept in check by the macro-algae. It's possible to have a near zero or sub-whole tank with a good size refugium and the proper lighting to support the growth and process of photosynthesis. Secondly, dosing or reactors are a requirement! It's the only way to keep up with the loss of trace elements and other properties we need to keep in check so that we run as close as possible to seawater's parameters. If you're running a refugium to it's full potential, and regularly harvesting the algae from it to encourage growth and providing the proper lighting to ensure the process of photosynthesis can happen as efficiently as possible. Second, a close monitoring of all trace elements and dosing to make sure they stay well within parameters. I believe if this is done, then the only changing of water that needs to occur is the evaporation of the tanks water and the topping off of freshwater that should follow suit. After all, that's how it's done in nature. Up Next, the new plan.
  9. New to the hobby, Found an old red sea max 130d for a good price, did my readings for a moths now and now about to start here is what i have done and what i am planning to do any advise and is greatly appreciated 1) Disassembled and cleaned up the old tank with vinegar x2 then washed and rinsed and then once with hydrogen peroxide and rinsed it again 2) I threw the stock skimmer and got the inTank media basket and tune 9001 skimmer washed the old power head and old pumps ( marineland nj900 and marinalnd400) got rid of the tubing cz they were nasty, 3) bought 40 pounds of Arag-alive live sand/ 20 pounds of marco dry rock, now my questions are 1.should i use the pumps/heater/ wave maker? 2. the guys who sold me the tank gave me about 15 lb of live rock in saltwater in a plastic bucket, should i use it? 3. I am planning to add sand and the rock ( still not decided on whether i use the live rock mixed with my new dry rock or not) then add the water and salt in the tank with the wave maker till i reach good salinity then add the cuc then add the floss and purigen and chemo-pure or should i add it from the get go? also should i leave the light on or off during the cycle? i am planing to get 2 common clowns and a blenny to start then maybe add a another fish then planning to get starter corals after i upgrade the light. any comments is greatly appreciated
  10. Hey guys, (skip to second paragraph if you want to get to the point of this thread) No plans on anything yet but just want to get some ideas IF I were to get another tank which i would want to be a frag tank. I know i should definitely be waiting a little bit because I'm only a little shy of 4 months with my main nano tank. Over all i have a totally of about 1.5 years of reefing under my belt, just not continuos. I would not say I'm anywhere near and expert but after succefully keeping a tank for over a year and getting threw my first algae out break very smoothly in the new set up plus having all my live stock thriving for the 3 month i've had it, I'm getting the urge to start of new tank, that eventually could hold sps and lps (for sure in no rush to jump to those coral). While having a complete eco-system with shrimp crab snail fish and coral with live rock structures and a deep sand bed I'm absolutely obsessed with the idea of just coral with a snails to keep the tank clean because the more i learn about coral the more amazed i become. I mean there animals that will never die unless it is my fault and I'm always up for a challenge. So any ways that a little background and heres more of what I'm tossing up for ideas and what i really could use some help with. So I am a college student living at home (only 5 minutes away from my school so being away from the tanks is never a problem). That does mean i'm slightly on a budget. I'd like to start a nano reef tank which I'd most likely plan on going with a shallow tank because i do not want a sand bed and obviously (at least as I know) is a better alternative for frag tanks. Looking to have between 15-30 in the display and have no idea what I'll do for a slump. Considering i wont have live sand in the tank I think I'm going to have to have a external sump so i can pile live rock in unless you know any shallow tanks that offer a all in one with the sump connected already. Which kinda leads to another question, with a shallow reef tank with no live sand an probably gonna be light on live rock in the main display should I be going with a custom sump? Ill try to reach the 1lb live rock-gallon of water mark, but since it is a frag tank and wont be producing much waste will i need to have 1lb-gallon or could i work with less? Another consideration i've thought of is going all custom and building it myself... so any help with that would be great along with what i could do for a sump. Ill use a GFO reactor and probably just a bag or carbon in high flow for keeping the tank clean as possible with water change of course. Also looking for ideas for lights. On my main tank i have the maxspect razor r420r 130w 15000k which is amazing. I could use that an find something slightly cheaper that would work just for softies in the main tank. Again I am on a budget but i know lights are not somewhere you want to cut corners. So anyways anyone who has a nano frag tank please give any input regarding what I have listed or just some tips that you think are important. I'm in no rush and this is really just to get a better idea of what i will do in the future.
  11. What else should I add to this tank, just ordered a light from @DaveFason so I can finally start Adding some better coral, wanted to know what you guys think I should throw in there! Definitely needs to stack more rocks
  12. My tank has been cycling for 19 days. Current parameter are; ph 8.0, ammonia 0ppm, nitrites 0ppm, nitrates 40ppm. My ammonia peaked at 0.25ppm on day 15, and my nitrates have been at 40ppm since day 16. Is it time to do a large water change? If so can I slowly begin adding livestock after the water change?
  13. Swifty3565

    Is it time for a CUC?

    Trying to decide if it's time to start looking at a CUC. Tank has been up for 12 day with lights on a timer. BC 32 w/Eflux wavemaker 1040 gph. About 5 days ago started to see a diatom bloom (brown dusting covering rocks, sand and glass). I wiped the glass down and stirred up the sand at that time. I am now starting to see more green algae showing up on rocks and glass and mixed with some brown on the sand. Also see a couple of small spots of purple. Current water parameters: Temp 78.4 f, pH 8.0, SG 1.027, nitrite 0 ppm, Ammonia 0.25ppm, nitrate 40ppm. Is it ok to add some snails at this time, or should I hold off? Suggestions for snails is greatly appreciated.
  14. Happy Thursday everyone. I just received my Fluval PS2 in the mail and plugged it in. I've never used a protein skimmer before so I'm not exactly sure how it's supposed to look/sound/function. My tank was pretty quiet with just the pump running which was nice, and now this protein skimmer is making a noticeable amount of noise. It's also not producing much bubbles in the column so I'm not sure if that's how it's supposed to be? Are the bubbles supposed to come all the way up through the middle? I called Fluval and they just told me to wait 7 days until the skimmer is settled in. The lady also said it needs to be submerged completely, but the back compartment where the skimmer sits in the EVO 13.5 doesn't allow it to be completely submerged so that's confusing as well. Anyway, if anyone who's had more experience than I with this could offer some tips, I'd be grateful.
  15. Hello everyone, I have anew 120 gallon tank with a 30 gallon sump. Yesterday i added pure liquid ammonia "unscented"and by accident i put around 500ml of liquid ammonia in the tank. Does anybody know if the cycling process will still work? will it continue through time? or do i have to flush it? need some light on this problem of mine. thanks,
  16. I have an idea for a 10 gallon tank setup and I really want some advice and criticism on my plans.I have a 10 gallon tank and a stand that i built for it. I plan on using this DIY PVC overflow(youtube.com/watch?v=UZytENJZtJw&t=162s) down to a 10 gallon sump hidden in the stand. I will have a ball valve in line to adjust flow from the overflow and also a ball valve on the line from the return pump.For livestock in the tank I would really like to get a small clownfish and maybe a goby. I really love the frogspawn, hammer, and torch corals as well as zoas. Maybe pulsing xenias on a rock in the sandbed to keep them from tanking over the tank. Also I plan to put some type of cleaning crew in to keep everything clean.I cant remember how much sand I will need, but I was thinking about 10 lbs of live sand and 10 lbs of live rock for the display and then more rubble and sand in the sump for filtration.The want to follow this(youtube.com/watch?v=_-oanakiI7k) for my sump build. Basically 3 chambers, with the overflow pipe running into a filter sock. In that filter sock I want to put chemipure blue nano. In the second large well I want to put the sand and rubble rock and maybe macro algae like chaeto. Maybe even introduce some copepods into this section of the sump. Then the next is a bubble trap and the final section would be used for the pump. I would like to know what size pump would be good for a 10 gallon tank, and also how many times per hour should the water flow through the sump?Eventually I plan on adding a DIY ATO if this is feasible.Here are just some of the questions I have so far!QuestionsWhere should the float switch for the ATO be located? In the tank or in the sump?What type of light do i need? I don't want to get too crazy in terms of what corals I want to keep because a.) its only a 10 gallon tank and b.) I don't want to spend a whole lot of money on exotic coral species.How often should i do water changes and how much water to change?How do I know what size pump to use in my sump?Do I need to use a powerhead, or would the return pump add enough to provide enough motion in the tank?According to the video the pic overflow will be 352gph. Is this too much for the tank I'm doing? I could use a smaller pipe and reduce this, or add a ball valve to reduce this. If i continue with this would a 400 gph pump be good enough or should i go with a 500 with a ball valve in the line to reduce the flow?
  17. Hi all. I'm new to the nano reef hobby, but have been doing freshwater tanks for 20 years now. I have a problem with coral closing up on me. Before anyone chastises me about adding coral to a new tank, I received this coral by accident from an online aquarium livestock store. I notified them that they sent me someone else's order, but there was not much they or I could do so they told me to keep it. Anyways, the coral was doing great for 6 weeks and recently they have been closing permanently on me. A few have reopened, but only a few. Here are the details: Coralife Biocube 14 12 weeks old. 6 weeks fishless cycle with 6 weeks of hermit crabs, coral, and 2 yellow gobies. Temperature is steady thanks to chill solutions chiller. Lowest reading of 76.8 and highest reading of 77.1 12 hour light cycle using stock biocube lighting calcium @ 375 measured today for first time with hanna instruments PH of 8.4 Nitrates less than 5 0 Ammonia 0 Nitrites Don't know what phosphates are at. (Waiting for my api reef test kit to arrive) filtration using media basket with floss and chaeto algae. Added 30 grams of chemipure in bag yesterday. Salinity is at 1.023 Did a 5 gallon water change 2 days ago after seeing coral close up. Fire and Ice polyps 2 yellow gobies What flabbergasts me is that everything was fine until a few days ago. They would close up at times like during water changes, but were fine most of the time. I'm thinking that my phosphates must be high, but with my weekly water changes, I don't see how that's possible. Saw a red nudibranch today! My other thought might be a pest problem.
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