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Found 29 results

  1. 10001110101

    IM 25 Lagoon AIO

    Been out of the hobby since 2014, just didn't have the time for tank maintenance, previous tanks include a 20H, 20L, 40BR and a standard 55 (not in that order). Tank is Innovative Marine AIO 25g Lagoon, started cycling the display about 2-3 weeks ago, did a bleach then SW cure for rocks which were pukani leftover from my previous tank. I think the tank cycled super fast because of the curing I did with the rocks and the fact that I included a piece of aquacultured LR as well. Cycled using NLS pellets and MicroBacter7. Ammo and Nitrite are solid 0 with no spiking after even heavy feeding. Equipment: -IM Lagoon 25g AIO (includes media basket and 384gph DC return pump) -*OLD* TEK 6 Bulb T5 fixture running only 4 bulbs (some really really old KZ new generation, actinic plus, and blue plus) (I have one of the new AI Prime16HD's pre-ordered just waiting for it to ship) -Vortec MP10w (usually run it at like 60-70% Reef Crest Mode, occasionally switch to NTM to help clean up detritus) -Filter sock for mechanical filtration, carbon, and GFO. -No protein skimmer, will probably add one when bio-load increases. -Hydor 100w basic glass heater -4 Stage RO/DI -Plan to add 5g ATO, possibly premixed with kalkwasser to maintain Cal/Alk/pH Current livestock: -Pair of extreme misbar Ocellaris clowns (already showing pairing behavior) -3 Turban snails -Orange Zoas -Purple/orange Favia -Green with light green highlights Montipora Digitata -Duncan I'm sure some of you are thinking I'm nuts for putting SPS in such a new tank, but it's doing great, excellent polyp extension and aside from very, very light initial browning it's regained 90% of its full color. Also it's a montipora, in my experience most montipora are pretty easygoing compared to acropora. The favia came slightly damaged as well, didn't notice until I got it home, but it has been recovering well. I got the monti dirt cheap it will serve as a way of knowing if my parameters start to get out of line as well. Corals are always dipped and acclimated before addition to display. Current params are: Salinity: 1.025 pH: 7.9 Alk: 8.5 dKH Cal: 400 ppm Mag: 1200 ppm NO3: 5 ppm PO4: 0.04 ppm Temp: 79-82 deg F Goals for the tank (Subject to change 😉) : -Keep it simple, basic equipment and just regular water changes are going to be what keeps this tank going. -Stability above all else -No carbon dosing -LPS dominant mixed reef with some Zoas and a few hardy SPS. -Minimal fish and invertebrates. -Hopefully resist the temptation to buy every coral that catches my eye at the LFS and stick to a few really eye catching pieces that complement each other well. As you can tell I'm currently experiencing a diatom outbreak, this has happened in every single tank I've owned in the early stages and the turban snails are dealing with it. Also let me guys know what you think of the aquascape, it is very lightly glued together but can be changed if I get inspired. Just waiting on those bright white rocks to get some lovely coralline. Excuse the pictures, they were just quick snapshots taken from my iPhone so yeah, just there to give you a general idea, tank isn't that pretty right now anyways.
  2. Hello everyone! Wanted to introduce and show my tank. Started about 10 months ago, first tank. Took a while to stabilize with lots of early mistakes, but now is doing well. Got lots of information from this website and wanted to say thanks! Tank Specs: Display: Coralife BioCube 16 gal Stand: Coralife BioCube 16 Stand Rock: LFS dried former live rock Sand: CaribSea Ocean Direct (used the whole bag) Lighting: Stock Biocube 16 LED Heater: none, but have Chill Solutions Chiller, keep temp stable at 79.5 F Circulation: Cobalt MJ1200 return, Small return pump (~150gph) for chiller, 2 Hydor Koralia pumps with Hydor Smart Wave controller Skimmer: nah Filtration: InTank Media Basket , stock cotton+carbon Biocube cartridges Filter Media: Top to bottom: Purigen, Chemipure Elite, Seachem Matrix Top Off: dont get much evaporation with that lid, so I just top off whenever I see one of the return pumps outside the water in the back chamber Dosing: dont dose, use Tropic Marin Pro salt and do a 1 gallon water change every Friday (regardless of parameters) Parameters: Ca = 440-460 ppm range, Alk = 7.0 – 8.0 dKH, Mg = >1400 Salinity = 36 ppt
  3. DailynJ

    Which tank to choose?

    Hi all! I'm new to saltwater aquariums but not new to freshwater. I've been keeping freshwater all of my life, from 150gals to having 10 tanks at once. Now I live on the third floor of an apartment complex with a 20gal long planted tank filled with shrimp and a betta. Basically I'm trying to say I have a good amount of knowledge on basic stuff. I've been trying to decide on what aquarium I should get for saltwater reefing. I've been looking at the Coralife Biocube 32, as I found a kit that comes with an ATO, protein skimmer, and wavemaker, all for around $700. So this would still allow me to buy all the other essentials like heater and ro/di system on my budget, and possibly upgrade the light if need be. But I have been told it's not the best tank because of the curved glass, which often cracks. I've been recommended innovative marine tanks and red sea tanks. The innovative marine tank that is 30 gallons is a lot longer than what I was wanting, and it with a stand costs as much as the biocube kit. So I would still need to get the protein skimmer and all of that. Now the Red Sea Max E-170 is absolutely gorgeous. It comes with a built in protein skimmer, and comes with amazing lights. It has two filter outputs, so I don't think I would need a wavemaker. But the tank and stand is $1,365, which is WAY more than I was planning on spending for the tank alone. So my dilemma is: is the biocube good enough? Should I save up for the innovative marine or red sea tank instead? Do any of you have experience with these tanks: good or bad? I would love to hear any opinions or advice. Thank you so much, Dailyn
  4. Need some help/advice, guys. Have been running my tank for about 2.5 months now (20L), no fish but a few corals that seem to be doing well. My nitrates have been super high around 50ppm. Just did a huge water change, hoping that will help. I had a nuvo dc skimmer from IM that seems to have burned out. So I have an empty chamber currently and am considering setting up a little fuge. I also was thinking about maybe squeezing a slim skimmer and/or media reactor. I don't know if that is even an option, just a thought. Any advice on what I should do? My current setup is Chamber 1: filter sock. Chamber 2: skimmer. Chamber 3: Heater, return pump, ATO return. Thanks in advance!
  5. So my 20g tank just finished cycling a few days ago. On Sunday I went and got a pair of clownfish. Monday morning I noticed small white spots on both. Needless to say, i believe it's ich. I didnt QT them (i dont even have a QT tank, but I definitely will in the future), just acclimated and dropped em in. I'm reading about running the tank fallow for 76 days, but my question is what should be my course of action? Is that best with a small tank? I only have a hermit and snail in the tank, no coral yet. Most likely I will have 4-5 total fish, so what would you do??
  6. Cy_Borg_Monk

    Help! Purple up Dropped my PH!!

    hello all, I'm new to this site so please be easy on me lol. I've been in the hobby for about 8 years now. I recently started my 10gallon Nano tank (3 months ago) its doing average I would say. the corals are growing, not fast but pretty well. I don't have much coralline algae growing so I wanted to try purple up. well I did that last night with a ph of about 8.14 and I woke up to a ton of notifications from my APEX saying it was 6.0!! I'm planning on doing a water change immediately but curious to why it dropped so much. I have a 10 gallon sump/refugium too so my water volume is around 18 gallons with all my live rock and sand.
  7. Nutri-Sea Ocean Water CarribSea live sand Carrib Sea Life Rock 10 lbs Dry 10 lbs Live Kessil A80 Tuna Blue Hydor AUQAMAI Cobalt MJ 606 2 filter socks Poly filter 2 pouches of Chemipure Blue - less than recommended amount 2 Oscellarus Clownfish 1 Skunk cleaner shrimp 2 hermit crabs 5 bumble bee snails 2 margarita snails 3 Nassarius snails Zoa Frag Hammer Frag Current Setup END OF WEEK-1 END OF WEEK 4 7 Weeks in
  8. They came on my live rock. Are they problematic? If not, how do I keep them alive? Are they going to die as my tank cycles? Thanks!!
  9. Hello, I've been lurking here for quite some time while I planned and set up my tank. Excuse the mobile pics. It's similar to a reefer E-170. I took alot of time choosing and scaping my live rock which I am quite happy with, got some blue/purple mushies bottom left, 2 hammers, one back right doesn't get much flow but opens up nicely, I've moved the green one to front/center close to my elegance. My green devils hand is constantly moving and changing shape, the clowns love it. I got a nice frogspawn wall that I stuck in the cave and a white frogspawn on the top left. I'm not sure what the green coral on the rock over the mushies is? Can supply more pics for ID if required. CUC consists of : 1 strombus snail. 6 peppermint shrimp 4 zombie snails I will get a blood shrimp when they are available at my LFS, they got redline cleaners in but in AUD they cost $150 😞 Hitch hikers: Some tiny brittle stars? A selection of snails (turbo I think) Possibly 2 small crabs, kinda hairy, small claws. Hairy slug snail (no idea what it is, like a flat snail with hair) Fish: Pair of clowns Royal Gramma Flasher wrasse Carpet blenny Yellow Coral goby (deceased) female clown is an asshole... I do 10% water changes 3 times a month and 25% once a month with sea water @1.025. Im wondering what other fish I can add before I'm fully stocked, I like peaceful and colourful? Also with regards to coral should I take it easy for now and see what happens with my current colonies? Any advice really is appreciated. Thanks!
  10. Hello everyone and Thanks for reading, Objective: I am new to saltwater but I am ready to learn and do what is necessary to have a stunning tank filled with coral and livestock. Size: This will be standard ten gallon tank from Petco. I do not have any knowledge of getting the bottom of the tank drilled in order to have a sump and from what I have read, it does not appear to be necessary with a nano tank. Background information: I am a college student living two hours away from home. I will keep the tank at home with my brother doing maintenance while I am away. Equipment: I am looking for quality equipment that is not going to break the bank. After hours of research, this is what I have thought about getting. Ten Gallon Standard Tank - $10 Air Pump - Hydor Koralia Nano 240 - $24 HOB Filter - Aquaclear ?? - What size should I get? I have seen AC20s AC30s and even AC50s. ($22, $29, $37) Heater - Probably going to get a 50 watt aqueon pro - $30 Light - Help me pick out a light please. I am not trying to spend more than $150, but I want a quality light that will grow all corals. Refractometer - $23 Test Kit - API Reef Test Kit - $18.50 Total before stocking: $142.50 + Light Substrate: 10-15 Pounds of Live Rock Live Sand Livestock: Not definite on anything yet. Some ideas I've had though Fish - Clownfish, Damselfish, Royal Gramma. Note: I am aware that I cant put certain fish with others. Coral - Anything that has nice color that can grown from the light I use. Nothing advanced Inverts - Snails
  11. Help my cat loves sushi!

    Newbie bringing new life into Biocube14

    I decided to keep a tank Journal to help me keep track of my tank changes since I have been reading so many posts on here and I like the documentation and perhaps some helpful suggestions? FYI I am a total noob to running my own saltwater tank. I am a diver and I have done research on marine inverts (but those were preserved in formalin no care required) but I have never setup my own tank. My dream tank has tons of inverts and lots of corals and algaes competing for space (I did research on settlement tiles and that's kinda of what I want my tank to be like too). I have to add fish for the sake of my boyfriend's cat's entertainment, but I really would rather just have inverts. So a few months ago, I found this tank at a garage sale. Sure it was beat up, but I have always wanted to have a saltwater tank (This is my first saltwater tank). For $30 I became the excited owner of this albatross (my boyfriend's words). With Thanksgiving break and Christmas Break I finally had time to clean the tank out and fully access what I had acquired. Coralife BioCube 14 (scratched up with spirorbid worm tubes covering the back) In Tank Media basket Cobalt MJ1200 pump (is this too much? so loud and it blows the sand....) 10# dry rock Stock Hood with 24 W Compact fluorescents (10000k Daylight, and true actinic) Hydor Rotating Water deflector So after a month or two of getting made fun of for purchasing this tank I got it all cleaned up and made a few purchases to get it started. 12/08/18 I added 10# live sand 2# of live rock to the media rack I stacked in the sections: 1) filter floss and filter sponge, 2) Chemipure and Seachem Matrix, and 3) Purigen ( Probably a mistake to load the purigen precycle but oh well) I don't have a heater, but I live in Florida... I'm almost worried about it getting too warm... Then I played the waiting game... I did a fishless cycle with drops of ammonia and microbacter7 finally on 12/30 My tank had cycled. 12/31/18 Added CUC (pretty sure the LFS guy talked me into too many) 3 tiny blue leg hermits 4 larger red leg hermits 5 Nassarius snails 5 Trochus Snails 1/2/18 Diatoms are showing up so maybe I won't have to keep feeding my CUC as much (have only fed a quarter sized piece of nori and 2-3 shrimp pellets so far). Although it is interesting watching the snails and crabs fight over who gets the pellet first. (the snails are winning) I also got some algae wafers but there were no takers so I fished it out. Fish Store guy was evasive about returns or exchanges of snails, will be doing better research in the future as to quantities. Did another 1 gal water change because I had a little ammonia spike (more than yellow, but less than the 0.25 green/yellow) and my Nitrates were elevated. I have been reading about the pet water bottle ato's and debating about making one because I still haven't figured out how much water I need to add during the day yet. I will probably be waiting a bit before adding fish or corals, but here is my wishlist: Feather dusters/ other cool polychaetes Elysia sea slug, or other nudibranch sexy or peppermint shrimp for the cat I have to add a fish or two: Ocellaris Clown Royal Gramma (? heard its aggressive?) golby/shrimp pair then I want to easy hardy fast growing soft corals: Pachyclavularia (GSP) Discosoma Protopalythoa Xenia
  12. Hello I just set up my first marine tank on October 23. It is a 20long ends up holding 16gallons total. I'm Using a koralia 240 and a 20 hob (filled with polyfill), running a willis 165watt light (8 blue and 4 white on the control knobs) Added 2 damsel fish 3 days ago and a Gsp today (I'll post pics when it opens up). Ammonia 0 nitrite 0 nitrate was barely detectable. If anyone had any advice or tips that's would be awesome I'd love to learn all I can! A couple questions I had was how often do i feed and should I use a glass lid.
  13. My tank has seemed to develop the infamous dino outbreak guys... I've also noticed they've wiped out my copepod population and I've lost 2 out of 3 snails which has solidified my diagnosis...unfortunately I thought I had a diatom bloom in the earlier stages. I want no chemicals and no peroxide involved whatsoever, I'm trying to go all natural and then if that isn't successful then I will result to chemicals / tank breakdown and restart. My plan of attack is this: I'm currently on day 1.5 of blackout out of 3.I took a tiny peek and can see that the algae on the sand is 50% eliminated. (I'm also running an airstone). My theory is, at the end of the day I need to replenish my copepod population to prevent these kinds of outbreaks from happening again. On day 3, I plan to add the copepods (at night) and then dose phytoplankton according to package instructions. I'm figuring I'll be attacking the dino's while they're weak and hopefully the copepods will finish the job.. What are your opinions ? Have any of you tried this method of attacking dino's? What have your best method's been to eliminate this pesky algae?
  14. Hey, So now that I have saturated myself with many hours of countless reading, I am ready build and manage a tank. I decided to go with this route because of equipment I already had. 10 gallon all in one setup. A very good starter read is here by steelhealr http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...;hl=submersible the inspiration for this build and help came from lil'wrasse cool http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...126726&st=0 I went into greater detail than most of you will need but these are questions I had when I was starting so... bear with it. Now for the pics, This is for a standard 10 gallon fish tank. The silocone will fill in the gaps so hair pin precision is not needed here. the bulkhead how it looks That is where I am for now. I will post more with fuge and siliconed. bzphotog
  15. Meme's Nano Tank

    Meme's Fluval M90 Build

    Hi ya'll, I'm new to Nano-reef forum and forums in general. I have a new Fluval M90 36-gallon AIO tank and stand. Petsmart had it on clearance as they do not keep salt tanks in the store and so I got it for a third of the retail price. 🙂 From my previous experience in the salt tank world with an EVO Spec 5, I am taking this one s-l-o-w-l-y. I have been researching things over the past month and created wish lists. I'm keeping with the stock items for the time being but if they aren't up to par (pun intended), I will replace them. I have already placed my Life Rock by Caribsea; that took about 4 hours. I have made a screen top to keep my future fish from jumping out and built a filter media stand. I am currently awaiting the delivery of my Arag-Alive Special Grade Reef substrate. I'll be going to my LFS to get water as I haven't yet invested in a RO/DI system. I'm hoping to be adding the sand and water sometime this next week. To expedite the cycling process I will be adding Bio-Spira from Instant Ocean. Let me know what ya'll think and follow my tank successes and learning opportunities. 🙂
  16. No sure what this stuff is growing in my tank.. I see a couple rocks covered in it, I use a tooth brush to scrub it off and snails also usually eat it but it's annoying to see... Here's my readings, PH looks a bit pink because of the flash... Tank is about a month and 2 weeks old now... I do a 5G water change with RODI water every Saturday or Sunday and give a good cleaning, is my RODI water maybe an issue? Or my feeding habits? I don't really feed my fish all that much. Maybe half a cube of mysis shrimp every morning. My tank is a 40G Nuvo, my filter setup is (right to left) 1. Media basket with filter floss, cheato, then live rock 2. Water hearter with 3 mangroves 3. Water pump 4. Seachem Purigen (Saw it turning yellow yesterday, time for change?) And Seachem Matrix (Saw a couple really dark rocks, time for change?) 5. Tunze 9001 Skimmer
  17. Current setup Tank Nuvo 40G AIO Oolite Ocean Direct Live Reef Sand 40 pounds 46 Pounds of Live Cured Rock Livestock 2 Blue Green Chromis 5 Hermit crabs, One got eaten for his shell:( Saw his legs this morning. Heater EHEIM Jager Aquarium Thermostat Heater Wavemaker/Controller Hydor Koralia Nano Aquarium Circulation Pump 425GPH Hydor Koralia Evolution Aquarium Circulation Pump 750-850GPH (comes in tomorrow) Hydor Smart Wave Circulation Pump Controller ATO Tunze USA 3152.000 Automatic Top off Nano Osmolator for Aquariums Under 55-Gallon Light Radeon XR15W Pro Gen w/stand Extra Stuff Innovative Marine - Gourmet Defroster Selcon Vitamin Fish Good Dr. G Brime Shrimp Guy Loaded Seachem Stability 2 Bottles of TurboSTart on day 1 One Media bag loaded with Marineland's Premium Activated Carbon put in 3rd chamber (left to right). Going to add another today. in 2nd chamber.
  18. Kvasir

    Kvasirs' Fresh Start

    Edit - 10/22/2017 - A new plan based on cost and fit, but first, a new theory. The Previous Plan: A 25g Cube with a custom refugium, using AI Prime HD's and various other malarkey. Why a new plan: Since coming back with a renewed interest and wallet for nano/reefing, I've been reading a lot. Mostly about the revolution of LED lights since they were a few thousand for a questionable product, PAR levels and requirements, and refugium-only nutrient/phosphate filtration. Over the past couple weeks, the wife and I have been reading, discussing, looking, reading, and discussing more. They say with age comes wisdom - I have started to think wisdom is patience as had I been younger I would of jumped for the 25g Cube tank and went wild with setup without planning. Needless to say, I'm being more reserved and patient this time around, constantly reviewing information. So what's this all mean? A good part of this post is me putting the idea down somewhere, where I can come back read/review it and further contemplate (Over some quality tea in the AM and scotch or beer in the PM). I'm looking at this project as both a personal experiment in control and perseverance. As a younger reefer, I was too apt to tear down and restart or move to a bigger system to such a level it was unsustainable. A lesson learned and the method that will be applied here is the following: Consistency, Naturalism, and recycling what I can from my 10-years-ago youth. So what is the new plan? It's three simple principles: First and foremost, we're recycling what I may have left-over from my previous setups, should those pieces still exist. I'll have an itemized list below. I had three setups. A 3.5g Picotope, an 8g Biocube all-in-one, and a 20g long prop tank with a 2.5g rubble refugium/bubble-guard that I custom built from a 2.5g AGA tank. I think there's an old protein skimmer and maybe even an old Metal Halide light that had maybe a few months of use before it was broken down and taken to my parents basement after college, and various other odds and ends. Second, we are limited on size and weight. A younger me threw caution to the wind and used a TV stand for his first cube, thinking it was a perfect solution. However, I now realize that 8lbs per gallon of water and a multiple of two or three of total water weight is a good number to make sure your stand can hold. So we're going to size down from the initial size of 25g and stay around 8-10g for the display tank. If I have a leftover Biocube, that would be perfect as I'll be doing some DIY to make it better than what an all-in-one can offer. More on that later. Third, I want to go for a no-water-change tank to increase simplicity of maintenance from a physical requirement and time-requirement. Yes, this is including a larger-than-usual refugium. After a lot of research, doing many chemical formulas, and math I believe it should be possible. I had this epiphany when watching a "New to me" tank maintenance video. I'm going to elaborate, or at least try to, the best I can. I believe the core issue I'm seeing is that the idea that water changes are all a tank needs is mathematically incorrect. Most people say "20% water changes are very important! They replace trace elements and chemicals that are required for reefs and fish while removing nitrates and phosphates!" Now, stop and look at that statement - Speaking from a long-term standpoint, it's totally incorrect. I'm going to try to break this down next. Why I'm starting to believe water changes are total bunk when considering the long-term health and growth of fish and corals: Let's start with a simple concept of a hundred gallon tank. Most people suggest 20% water changes, which equates to 20 gallons of water. Simple, right? Well, let's complicate this. Let's say (for the sake of example) every gallon of water was a complete molecule of nitrate. If we do a 20% change of this water, we're still left with 80 gallons of nitrate! While we're reducing this to ppm in reality, you're still leaving room for a continual build of nitrates and phosphates. You're taking less than half on a regular basis. If the amount of nitrates accumulating over the course of a week is more than 80 in this example, then you're fighting a losing battle. Now sticking with this same theory, people say that water changes replace essential trace elements such as iodine, calcium and so-on. Again, for the sake of simplicity let's say that in that imaginary hundred gallon tank has a bunch of corals in it. Every week, they use 10% of the total trace elements within the tank. Now, if we remove 20% of water and replace it, we've replace 20% of 10% from a total of 100 gallons. What's this mean? What is the point of this? Well, to put it simply, a 20% water change is fighting a losing battle. You'll eventually reach a null point where you'll be fighting ZERO trace elements and a level of nitrates and phosphates that are all but lethal or encouraging for algae growth. This is why I believe I've seen over my history of reefing an eventual 'mini-crash' or a sudden bloom of basic algae and a loss of corals/fish. Even with weekly water changes, there is going to be that eventual "Event Horizon" where a tipping point is reached. So how do we combat this: I believe tanks that run refugiums have a natural 'ringer' in their corner. The nitrates and phosphates are kept in check by the macro-algae. It's possible to have a near zero or sub-whole tank with a good size refugium and the proper lighting to support the growth and process of photosynthesis. Secondly, dosing or reactors are a requirement! It's the only way to keep up with the loss of trace elements and other properties we need to keep in check so that we run as close as possible to seawater's parameters. If you're running a refugium to it's full potential, and regularly harvesting the algae from it to encourage growth and providing the proper lighting to ensure the process of photosynthesis can happen as efficiently as possible. Second, a close monitoring of all trace elements and dosing to make sure they stay well within parameters. I believe if this is done, then the only changing of water that needs to occur is the evaporation of the tanks water and the topping off of freshwater that should follow suit. After all, that's how it's done in nature. Up Next, the new plan.
  19. New to the hobby, Found an old red sea max 130d for a good price, did my readings for a moths now and now about to start here is what i have done and what i am planning to do any advise and is greatly appreciated 1) Disassembled and cleaned up the old tank with vinegar x2 then washed and rinsed and then once with hydrogen peroxide and rinsed it again 2) I threw the stock skimmer and got the inTank media basket and tune 9001 skimmer washed the old power head and old pumps ( marineland nj900 and marinalnd400) got rid of the tubing cz they were nasty, 3) bought 40 pounds of Arag-alive live sand/ 20 pounds of marco dry rock, now my questions are 1.should i use the pumps/heater/ wave maker? 2. the guys who sold me the tank gave me about 15 lb of live rock in saltwater in a plastic bucket, should i use it? 3. I am planning to add sand and the rock ( still not decided on whether i use the live rock mixed with my new dry rock or not) then add the water and salt in the tank with the wave maker till i reach good salinity then add the cuc then add the floss and purigen and chemo-pure or should i add it from the get go? also should i leave the light on or off during the cycle? i am planing to get 2 common clowns and a blenny to start then maybe add a another fish then planning to get starter corals after i upgrade the light. any comments is greatly appreciated
  20. Hey guys, (skip to second paragraph if you want to get to the point of this thread) No plans on anything yet but just want to get some ideas IF I were to get another tank which i would want to be a frag tank. I know i should definitely be waiting a little bit because I'm only a little shy of 4 months with my main nano tank. Over all i have a totally of about 1.5 years of reefing under my belt, just not continuos. I would not say I'm anywhere near and expert but after succefully keeping a tank for over a year and getting threw my first algae out break very smoothly in the new set up plus having all my live stock thriving for the 3 month i've had it, I'm getting the urge to start of new tank, that eventually could hold sps and lps (for sure in no rush to jump to those coral). While having a complete eco-system with shrimp crab snail fish and coral with live rock structures and a deep sand bed I'm absolutely obsessed with the idea of just coral with a snails to keep the tank clean because the more i learn about coral the more amazed i become. I mean there animals that will never die unless it is my fault and I'm always up for a challenge. So any ways that a little background and heres more of what I'm tossing up for ideas and what i really could use some help with. So I am a college student living at home (only 5 minutes away from my school so being away from the tanks is never a problem). That does mean i'm slightly on a budget. I'd like to start a nano reef tank which I'd most likely plan on going with a shallow tank because i do not want a sand bed and obviously (at least as I know) is a better alternative for frag tanks. Looking to have between 15-30 in the display and have no idea what I'll do for a slump. Considering i wont have live sand in the tank I think I'm going to have to have a external sump so i can pile live rock in unless you know any shallow tanks that offer a all in one with the sump connected already. Which kinda leads to another question, with a shallow reef tank with no live sand an probably gonna be light on live rock in the main display should I be going with a custom sump? Ill try to reach the 1lb live rock-gallon of water mark, but since it is a frag tank and wont be producing much waste will i need to have 1lb-gallon or could i work with less? Another consideration i've thought of is going all custom and building it myself... so any help with that would be great along with what i could do for a sump. Ill use a GFO reactor and probably just a bag or carbon in high flow for keeping the tank clean as possible with water change of course. Also looking for ideas for lights. On my main tank i have the maxspect razor r420r 130w 15000k which is amazing. I could use that an find something slightly cheaper that would work just for softies in the main tank. Again I am on a budget but i know lights are not somewhere you want to cut corners. So anyways anyone who has a nano frag tank please give any input regarding what I have listed or just some tips that you think are important. I'm in no rush and this is really just to get a better idea of what i will do in the future.
  21. What else should I add to this tank, just ordered a light from @DaveFason so I can finally start Adding some better coral, wanted to know what you guys think I should throw in there! Definitely needs to stack more rocks
  22. My tank has been cycling for 19 days. Current parameter are; ph 8.0, ammonia 0ppm, nitrites 0ppm, nitrates 40ppm. My ammonia peaked at 0.25ppm on day 15, and my nitrates have been at 40ppm since day 16. Is it time to do a large water change? If so can I slowly begin adding livestock after the water change?
  23. Swifty3565

    Is it time for a CUC?

    Trying to decide if it's time to start looking at a CUC. Tank has been up for 12 day with lights on a timer. BC 32 w/Eflux wavemaker 1040 gph. About 5 days ago started to see a diatom bloom (brown dusting covering rocks, sand and glass). I wiped the glass down and stirred up the sand at that time. I am now starting to see more green algae showing up on rocks and glass and mixed with some brown on the sand. Also see a couple of small spots of purple. Current water parameters: Temp 78.4 f, pH 8.0, SG 1.027, nitrite 0 ppm, Ammonia 0.25ppm, nitrate 40ppm. Is it ok to add some snails at this time, or should I hold off? Suggestions for snails is greatly appreciated.
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