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Found 5 results

  1. undertheseaquarium

    SCAquarium 66G or 83G Red Sea Reefer XL

    I don't want to make this topic long, so I'll just say and list the main points. 🙂 Current Tank: Oceanic Biocube29 Inhabitants: 1 Clown, 1 Sleeper goby, 8-9 zoas, 4 LPS, 3 Snails, 1 Crab (whenever he decides to come out) Rock: 30lbs Live Rock + 30 Lbs Live Sand Age: 3 months Situation: I'm looking to upgrade my current set up to a more established one, that will last me a few good years before I ever need to upsize. When I started, I always wanted a sump/ refugium but I had no prior knowledge on how to care for one. I was able to scrump together enough to make this purchase. I'm moving in 3 months but I feel that will be fine. I don't have to set the tank up right away but I can always start the nitrogen cycle, so that its an easy set up for moving day (condo). My choices are, with included cons: SCA 66 Gallon Starfire Rimless Aquariums Pnp System 32x24x20" 10mm with Built-in Overflow for $1980 (I'll have to upgrade the plumping) Res Sea Reefer 425 XL (47") - $1800 (this is a great deal but I dont know how much space I will have and I would like a more cube like tank) Red Sea reefer 350 white (36") - $2200 (this was my first dream tank) Advice for choosing would be grateful
  2. May 31, 2018; Tank has been up for 75 days, have lost some fish, all coral thriving, will post some stock list soon. May 2, 2018; April 22, 2018; April 17, 2018; Frags from AquaSD April 6, 2018 Frag shipment AquaSD March 17, 2018 - Tank Gets Wet March 15, 2018 - Dry Setup Link to maintenance sheet: (link here)
  3. Lonet0618

    32 Gallon Biocube Cutouts??

    What is the purpose of these cutouts in picture? Also would it be okay if I covered those up to insure all water passes though the first chamber?
  4. Micahman7

    Coralife 16 gallon LED Biocube

    I just picked up a 16 gal coralife biocube led model and wondered if it had enough light for a bta. I have a few strips of extra ecoxotic led lights and I was also wondering if anyone has tried to add led’s to this hood. Seems lile it would be tight based off what I see. There is not a lot of info out there on the 16 gal led that I have found. Any help would be great. Thanks!
  5. SaltyBuddha

    Salty Buddha's IM10 Fuge Mod

    SaltyBuddha's IM10 Fuge Mod Currently cycling an IM10 fusion, and I added a little fuge mod the the rear chambers. My plan for the tank is to keep it as natural as possible. I don't want to run too many chemicals or any kind of skimmer. Although, I will be using Renew from seachem to help with water clarity. I opted for this instead of carbon due to any phosphate leak possibilities. Basically, the second chamber that has the fuge option was pretty small. Anything that I have seen recommends to have at least 20% of the DT area for the fuge. I ended up removing the wall between the 3rd and 2nd chamber and moved it closer to the 1st chamber. Opening up more room for the 3rd chamber. Biggest issue now, is that I am keeping chaeto in the same area as the return pump. I could have made the 2nd chamber larger, but the IM10 has that weird bottom chamber to increase the volume size of the 3rd chamber. I initially wanted to get rid of that bottom chamber, but it would have been pretty difficult to remove that glass panel. I opted to create an acrylic divider between my chaeto, liverock, and sicce .5 pump as seen in the picture below. The Sicce .5 was bigger than I thought. It is yet to be tested, but I think it should work pretty well. I have a small waterproof 6700k LED that can be attached with suction cups that I plan to use to grow the chaeto. I will update this when I have results. First Chamber Polyfil Seachem Renew Any other chemicals on a need to use basis Second Chamber Heater Third Chamber Chaeto Liverock rubble Removing Glass Chamber Dividers I found that removing the divider between the 2nd and 3rd chamber was more difficult than I though. I tried using a razor blade and that was a lot of work. It was hard to get between the glass panels to remove the silicone adhesive. Then, I stumbled upon something from google. A guitar string can be used to slip between the panels and scrape off the acrylic at the same time. Luckily I had a few from one of my guitars laying around. It was way easier. Hardest part was holding onto the string with tools while inside the small rear chambers. BUT I did break the glass divider. I was a little impatient and tried to wiggle it out before removing all the silicone. It ended up breaking in half, but luckily it did not hurt anything else in the chamber. I ended up using some acrylic (from a failed DIY tank attempt) to replace that divider. I left just enough room in the 2nd chamber for sufficient flow and my heater. The heater is working well in that area with no issues. Flow - I have a a chiller in the 3rd chamber as well. This provides about 100 GPH of flow running from the top down to the bottom where the return pump is. The sicce .5 provides a constant 185 down flow. I am hoping this will be sufficient for the chaeto. If not, I have a few ideas in mind, but it will limit the amount of space. Update 5/7 - New light and updates I saw almost NO growth with the light from Amazon. It kept the chaeto alive but that was about it. Switches to a JBJ NanoGlo and the chaeto has doubled in size in less than a week. Way better. I've also changed to putting a micron bag over the pump. This is almost like a filter sock. For a nutrient exporter I would have to clean it every 3 to 4 days. Way to much of a pain to do that, but I'll do it every 2 weeks no problem. It is working well to keep chaeto and other stuff out of the DT. All in all it is doing a great job. Im down 5ppm of nitrates in 2 days with the upgrade to the JBJ nano glo.
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