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Found 97 results

  1. So this is my current Pico... 2.5 gallons... (this is a crappy picture that I murdered even further with a photo editor...) And things are starting to get cramped, when the Duncan is fully extended he really takes up a lot of space on his own, not that he cares. He's just like that, but is also my favorite coral in the tank. (he's also growing 2 (maybe 3) new heads. I also want to spread out the zoas, move the Kenya tree further away and put the xenias in their own area. The anthelia I mowed down already but know it will come back which is fine. So enough of the why, let's get to the point. The new tank is going to be 6.5 gallons. (it's gonna be huuuge). I'm currently working on the hood and stand. I will be using my sump and canister filter from the smaller tank still. It's a semi hex and it was a gift. The wood is rough cut cedar I had left from a gazebo I built for a customer. So here are a few things I'm planning to do differently this time, because I have been paying attention : Better flow! I mean way better, turbulent! alternating! flow flow flow! My entire scape will be mounted to a removable background to make it easier to add new corals, move corals, treat algae or pests (should they appear from thin air or awaken from hibernation). This will also allow me to dip the entire scape if the corals require it. I will be adding violet and turquoise leds to my lighting and switching out my 10k whites for neutral whites for a better blending of color and spectrum. Ok, so here are a few things I want to do but won't really know how they will work until I get it set up. I plan to have a set of return lines behind my Live rock scrap and a set up top facing down. These lines will be powered by separate pumps that will alternate via a wave maker. I'm hoping that will be much better for keeping detritus from settling. My canister filter will be a sort of closed loop set up. Two returns coming up from the bottom with heads/nozzles designed to sweep the bottom of the tank and the drain mounted in the bottom as well to (theoretically) catch any debris. I plan to hollow out two small pieces of rock to hide these nozzles. Will my green star polyps hate this constant flow? They will be spread out on the bottom of the tank. I still have a lot to do and decide on, like most things I will probably change my mind about a dozen times before it is all said and done. So this is the beginning, I post pictures as I go, maybe you will find it interesting or maybe you won't (boooo) if you have tried any of the things I've said please let me know how or if they worked out for you. Thanks (fingers crossed I don't just screw this up :p)
  2. jdmcbuilt

    Future Acan garden

    Picked up some equipment at my LFS. IM Fusion 10. 10 pound black sand( my son picked it out). 6 pound dry rock. Ehiem 50 watt. On order Rio 800 return pump Upgraded media rack IM Spinstream Micmol Gen 3 light More pictures to come in 2 days. Thanks to being a good ole Prime member. Lol Future livestock My snowflake clown(currently in my sump) Corals ACANs only. Maybe some blastos. Maybe. Lol
  3. Hey everyone, I wanted to reach out about a project I've been working on for some time now. Blue and actinic light from LEDs has been ruining my reef aquarium photography for a long time. Probably since LEDs became popular. I actually think it's one of the biggest problems with our hobby online. Everyone is sharing this brilliant pics but they're all so blueeee and either you have to spend a ton of time tweaking the hue and saturation of each photography (with mixed results) or you just post away. I love the idea of using DSLR and shooting in RAW to get your levels just right, but I just don't always feel like getting all my gear out and then doing all the adjusting in post. So, with that, I'd like to introduce the Aquarium Camera App (iPhone/iPad and Android I'm working on). I developed it to color correct the actinic light on your corals from LEDs in real-time. Most importantly, it works it's magic on the sensor BEFORE your iphone/ipad has a chance to compress the image and permanently mess up your tank photos. It works with video or photos and I think it's just what our hobby has needed. Version 1.0 had some great feedback and ReefBuilders.com said it was "...an essential tool for the reef tank photography". But a got a lot of aquarists emailing me saying that the blue light correction wasn't quite powerful enough. I went back to the drawing board (quadrupled the lines of code) and just this week released version 2.0 after getting 170 reef hobbiests to test it on every popular LED light we could muster: AI Prime's, Radions, Kessils, Coralife, etc. A few even got some good results when the whites were almost completely off. It's MADNESS!!! haha It's now live, and I've love a few of you to check it out as really this is something I feel like our hobby has needed for some time now. You can sign up for beta testing or download it off the store. All proceeds will go to the beers bought during "the making of" and if there's anything leftover, hopefully a couple frags (looking at you WWC).
  4. Started this tank on March 30, 2017 with stock pump and filter sock, koralia nano from previous tank, and 5 lb of LR, and about 8.5 gallons of saltwater to start. The tank is almost a year old now and some upgrades have happened. (will take some better pics with the camera later) Equipment -IM Ti ATO (going to tunze nano ato) -Ran a kessil a80 for 11 months before going to a radion (diffusion kit/rm -Jbj 1/15 hp Chiller with 1.0 return -Sicce 0.5 return - inTank Media rack with 2 filer floss on top, seachem matrix, bottom two filter flosses -inTank universal media skimmer -was running a IM desktop Media Reactor with carbon but since the RMS mount is fairly big i had to remove the reactor (don't mind that because its freaking study!) So in turn I have a Fudge basket that I might run with more matrix in it if the tunze 9001 doesnt work out (coming) -MP10 wQD -inTank Frag rock (2) - 5 lb LR -3 lb Sand (going to take down to less lb's till its barley covered probably -Cobalt Aquatics Neotherm 100w heater - 6.5 chemipure Live Stock: - Rainbow Acans - Duncans - Walking Aussie Duncan - Purple Tipped Frogspawn - Young Maxima Clam - Rock anemone -3 nassarius snails -3 Trochus Snail -3 Aussie young scolymia/s? LOL -Side plant is one of 3 succulents I got at a baby shower and decided to try to grow it under the XR-15 instead of my bedroom window lol, so if they switch out ever that why. Let me know if you have any thoughts on the tank! Plan on upgrading to a Lagoon 25 at some point this year I hope!
  5. Hi all, I'm disassembling my custom LED fixture and selling the 48W LED super spectrum pucks. I worked with Yann to develop this specific flavor after significant testing. These are PCBs with premium LEDs intended for a DIY assembly. Yann sells my mix here: https://blueacro.com/acrostar/ for ~$85 shipped. These are custom chips with what I consider to be the absolute best spectrum for coral growth, fluorescence, and color mixing. Channel 1: 4x Royal Blue (450nm), 1x Warm White (2700k, 80+CRI); 1A max current, 15V required Channel 2: 2x Royal Blue (450nm), 1x 425nm Violet (Luxeon UV), 1x 415nm Violet (Luxeon UV); 1A max current, 12V required Channel 3: 1x Lime, 1x Warm White (2700k, 80+CRI), 1x Royal Blue, 1x Neutral White (4000k, 80+CRI); 700mA max current, 12V required Channel 4: 1x Blue (485nm), 1x Royal Blue (450nm), 1x Cyan (500nm); 1A max current, 9V required. A lot of thought and experimentation went into this configuration. It's cost me buckets of LED's to figure this out... but I feel like this is the PERFECT mix . At 100% it should result in something like 19-22k light (depending on your perception). It's focused on growth over unused accent colors but does include one Cyan and one Lime. The lime is too cool to not include and really allows a whiter look when called for - I feel that it does harm the overall color rendering, but it is an extremely efficient way to get a whiter light when you want it. If possible, I would run a 5th channel with just the lime. Cyan (~500nm) also doesn't do much for the coral but is necessary to compensate for the gap in phosphor converted white. This light leans towards warm white over neutral white - more warm white gives a very rich coloration that is less "sterile. Channel one, with one WW and 4 RB's is perfect for dawn and dusk viewing. You can see how it causes a reef tank to fluoresce here: You can see more of the coral growth and color rendering here http://bostonreefers.org/forums/index.php?threads/fresh-build-the-clean-white-stage.154756/page This is a bit of a specialty item - so let me know if you have any questions. They are sold with solder pads (not solderless headers) and are used, but have only reached about 1/10th of their usable life. Send me a text 978-502-7037 (preferred) or respond to this post. Best, Rob
  6. Hi all. I've changed lights again and have 2x Kessil A360W E-series lights I no longer need. They are the saltwater Tuna Blue spectrum. Beautiful lights and I had great results with them. They have about 4 months of use on them, 7.5 hours a day. Full disclosure - one light has a little bit of pitting on the hanging ring (but the body/LEDs are flawless). I also have the controller (with magnetic mount) and a link cable for the lights. All are in perfect working order. Will sell separate or together. Free controller if you buy both! Price includes tracked/insured shipping to CONUS. International at your cost/risk. Message with any questions! Thanks! Kessil A360We Tuna Blue - $225 Each Kessil Controller - $70 Buy both lights and get the controller free!
  7. NanoReeferNY

    WTB: Hydra 26 HD

    Looking for 2 Hydra 26 HDs .....
  8. I'm selling a Current USA Orbit Marine Aquarium LED Light, bought in June of this year, because I am breaking down the tank that it was used on. Its in great shape, only in use since June, I can post pictures once I get home but besides a little dust its pretty much new. Heres the amazon listing for the fixture, its the 24''-36'' adjustable one. Im looking for $100 or OBO, willing to ship or Local Orlando Fl meet up.
  9. Hey all, question regarding coloration/“pop” improvement with Ecotech Radion upgrade options.I’ve been running a G1 Radion for something like 6 years over my 34 gallon Solana. I’m pretty satisfied with output, and the spread is acceptable, corals grow fine, so no real “problems.” But I’ve never loved the coloration it gives my tanks, compared to what I’ve seen on other tanks with different LED’s or newer Radions. So I’m considering an upgrade. Obviously the most affordable option is to send in the one I already own for Ecotech to upgrade to the G3. And of course since I’m thinking about it, I’ve also been checking out the G4 and G4 pro. I don’t need the G4pro for the increased output, but I do like the idea of more color channels. What I want to know is: is it worth the upgrade (any of them) in terms of visual appeal and making colors pop? Will I see a noticeable difference from G1 to G3? Is G4 way better than G3 (aesthetically)? Has anyone made any of these leaps and can talk to how the corals appear under the improved spectrum? Will the G3 upgrade be enough to see that new “pop”? Is the G4Pro way better than the regular G4 in terms of color/“pop”?I’d love some first-hand experiences with this. Thanks!
  10. chathurai

    kessil dens matrix issue ?

    Hello Reefers , i brought this a150w ocean blue led, and im really happy with this light, recently i have captured the dens matrix array of this led light, i have notice some dimming of the one violet led, is this some kind of violet led or is this dying ?
  11. So, I acquired this light through a trade. Prior to this light, I've never had something so adjustable, user customizable or powerful. Quiet frankly, it scares me a bit. It has a setting for lps and sps. My concern is, I've never ran a tank that simulates real sunlight or a sunlight schedule. Ive always ran my reefs with 6-8 hours of light. Now with nearly 13 hours of light. I'm concerned about nusance algae issues. Also, I've cut all the settings by 60-70% for acclimation.
  12. I have taken down my tank and am looking to sell my DIY led/t5 hybrid light. This is a housing from a Coralife 4x 24" T5 lunar fixture. I removed 2 of the T5s, as well as the lunar LEDs, and mounted a 4 channel Nanobox Duo M inside of it. So total it has 2 24" T5s in the front and back each with individual reflectors, and a Nanobox Duo M (4 channels, moonlight channel, & lime LEDs) mounted in the middle. 4 channel Bluefish controlled with the t5s on a separate outlet. I'll also include the old nanobox duo gooseneck in case you want to restore it. The nanobox fan is burnt out. It is an easy fix, but works fine without it since the t5 has a fan and the housing is looser around the nanobox than the original housing. It also needs a cover for the nanobox fan hole I cut into the top. It also could use a better plexiglass protector, I couldn't find a single piece big enough. With a little TLC this could be a really clean fixture, but it's currently a bit rough around the edges. That being said, this thing works great for growing corals and has a great mix of flashy led and natural fluorescnet spread. I really like the colors, and look of this light. I am selling because I have taken down the tank, sold all my stuff, and am moving across the globe. Looking to get $290.00 USD shipped. In my opinion it is worth it for the Nanobox alone. Thanks for looking.
  13. Just purchased a JBL Nanocube 6. Would love to see others set up. Not sure what I want to do with mine though seahorses are one I consider
  14. Hello, I'm now to this hobby. Been lurking this site for a couple months and finally ready to make the plunge. I've been reading up on rocks, cycling, livestock, power heads and everything else. I've actually started to accumulate supplies for this like a RODI, refractometer, rock, containers, wave-makers and other supplies I feel confident I could apply to whatever tank I end up choosing. And that brings me to where I'm stuck at, the tank. I've had a Biocube 32 LED in my cart for a couple months but can't seem to pull the trigger. I really love the look, I like that as a newbie and can kind of jump in with few additions (to start). I read the arguments against the Biocubes but I also see the incredible things people have done with even stock lighting; even somehow keeping a healthy anemone in a stock tank where it shouldn't be possible. However, the arguments against starting with a Biocube seem valid but the problem I have is finding an alternative in the same price range. For $400 I have a stand and a tank that is *close* to ready to cycle and then stock coral and fish plus I also dig the look. People say you can build your own tank for the costs of a 32 but I'm having trouble finding the info I would need to do this. So thats why I wonder if there a resources available on this site for this? I tried searching and will continue to so but so far I haven't found quite what I'm looking for. I'm looking to start a coral tank 40g or under with LPS and softies. Haven't really been hooked on SPS but I would however like an anemone (I imagine some experienced users ask "why would you want one?"). Then just a few fish like clown pair, a watchman goby and when the tank is established and I have cultivated enough pods on a separate tank, a Green. Mandarin Finally a CUC made up of snails, a pom pom, hermits and micro brittles depending on tank requirement. Part of my reservation is you don't know what you don't know. Like type a glass seems like something that becomes import but I'm just building the foundation of my knowledge and while you can read and research a component of that is time and experience. But still, I'm afraid I'm going to find out the hard way why something is important and end up regretting my purchases. If you made it this far, thanks so much for reading and I appreciate any tips. ~Danny
  15. arifturzo

    Biocube 32 LED upgrade

    I am thinking to upgrade my biocube 32 LED. There are expensive option like Steve’s LED, NanoBox Retrofit and open hood option with AI prime. I don’t want to go with the open hood option. I read some people used truelumen 12 inch led strip. But not sure if this is a good option or not. Please help!!
  16. will need to be wired but new and fully working i will include wall plug and 12v adapter for the fan 6 cree xte Royal Blue 4 cree xte whites price does not include shipping
  17. arifturzo

    NanoBox Retro or Steve’s LED

    I am planning to upgrade my Biocube 32 stock light. I researched all the forums regarding this topic and didn’t get a satisfactory answer so far. Please let me which one I should go with, Steve’s LED or NanoBox retro?
  18. Hey guys i just got an 18inch current orbit led light and has a bunch of cool settings sunrise/sunset / night / day/time need help what’s best light quality to run like how much percent white blue green red and what would be a good on and off period just general full setup help if anyone got experaince please
  19. So today is finally here, today I move from the original Pico to the new one. I figured I would start a new journal and detail it from now as well as go into more detail about the setup, what was built and what was bought. FTS 3/14/18 FTS 10/8/17 More to come... Set up consists of : -2 X 2.5 gallon aquariums (Total tank volume after rock and media displacement is roughly 3 gallons) -Roughly 5lbs of live rock -256gph pond pump with two outlets - one up top for surface tension, one lower for flow through middle of tank -Diy led, 4 blue, 6 royal blue, 4 warm white and 3 cool whites on 3 channels powered by laptop power supplies and dc motor dimmers. -LEDs are 3 w, 3v ordered off ebay, non branded -Tank was drilled with a dremel and Bulkheads are made from male and female pvc adapters (After tank was drilled and bulkheads were siliconed in I mixed and poured a two part epoxy resin about 1/4 inch thick to reinforce the glass and pcv) -Sump is a simple 2 chamber design, water flows through filter floss-chemipure-a box of MarinePure biofilter media-purigen-return pump -DIY ATO - Float switch connected to DC 12v relay which controls a 40gph pump in the reservoir -Temperature controller is a 5$ board bought off ebay, set temp and a fan will kick on when needed, it sits directly over the return side of the sump. Keeps the temperature between 79-81 Coral list: Hammer Candycane /trumpet Kenya tree Pink xenia Duncan GSP Clove polyp Purple gorgonian Orange rhodactis mushroom Green rhodactis mushroom yellow/green plate coral five kinds of palys - will update closeup pictures for help with identification eleven different types of zoas - will update closeup pictures for help with identification *when it comes to zoas and palys I have come to learn that most of them have made up names. My 'laser lemons' were actually purple people eaters... * Any questions about the setup, feel free to ask.
  20. h3dgehog

    ATI Hybrid Powermodule

    Item: Selling 24", 4 bulb ATI Powermodule (T5 + LED combo) Condition: Excellent Location: Nebraska Price: $475 (not including shipping costs) Sale preference: would prefer to sell local sale (local as in within 1-2 hour driving distance); I am also planning to do a roadtrip from Nebraska to Georgia this February, so am willing to meet someone along the way
  21. I need help with this project. I currently have the 12g nano cube LED tank, it has the following specs: 12-gallon Dimensions: 15.8" x 13.8" x 14.8" Capacity: 12 gallons LED Bulbs: 8 total: 5 blue, 3 white LED Total Output Wattage: 10.4W Pump: 8 W SP1-400 0.8 LIFT Power Supply: 110V, 60 Hz Weight: 29 lbs My question is, where do I find LED’s to replace the ones currently installed? I’d like to go more 50:50 on the color, maybe experiment with a red or purple in there as well. I have reached out to jbj customer service and was told they don’t offer replacement LEDs. This tells me I’ll need source them somewhere else. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you 🙏
  22. Anyone able to provide par of their xho par? Blue xho. Current tank is 12” tall, led would b 3-4” from water surface
  23. reefinnewb

    Powersupply humming

    Have two Lumia 5.2 hooked to a Maxwell 240w 48v PSU. When certain channels are turned up, it hums like crazy. I cannot go 100% power without some channels flickering. All drivers are the correct size. Any ideas? The PSU should be plenty of power. Edit: Using two LDD-H-4S DRIVER BOARD from RapidLed. Using the PWM Pulldown jumpers with a BlueFish Controller.
  24. Hey all, I was noticing that there seems to be very little forum post about BlueAcro, so I thought I would add my two cents and share my experience with their products. I decided to take the plunge and try their led's since I've been a little dissatisfied with Par38 lights, not that they didn't grow corals, but the corals never had good color since I had to sell my AI Prime (awesome light BTW) and I never really liked the spectrum (tried CoralCompulsion and a cheap Lumentek par38 from amazon). Plus not having control over intensity is a real draw back, especially the coral compulsion 24w 22k model over my 10g tank, I almost bleached my rockflower nem, had to remove the reflectors to fix that, plus I hated the disco ball effect. Now i'm not saying that Par38 lights are junk, they did the job and they grew corals, but they didn't satisfy my needs or wants. Now onto my review of BlueAcro The Good: This Led chip is the BEST I've used so far, my corals and I love the spectrum that this led provides. I can say this confidently because they are coloring up like the used to be under the AI Prime and are super lush ( if I can use that expression ). And the shimmer from this chip, by far the best shimmer I've every seen yet from a DIY led, almost like a kessil, not quite there but close. Color blending was exceptional (except when your using the their reflector, I'll get into that in the UGLY section), the blending was crisp and there was not a hint of disco ball affect, none that my eye's could see anyway. The chip itself is very small and compact, very impressed that those tiny diodes can throw out so much light, it also fit perfectly on the a Par38 heatsink that I retro fitted the Acrostar into. I also got their 2 channel driver, that thing was also tiny and worked very well with Manually adjusting the current to the channels, plus when I got the Coralux storm controller they just worked great with each other. The Bad: I hate to add this to my review but I felt it was worth mentioning, while the products were great the customer service is lacking. When I had made my order, which was fine, I had waited two weeks and had not received my order or got a shipping confirmation. I thought they had a lot of orders and were making more chips, but I didn't hear anything from them, so I emailed them what was the status of my order. I was emailed back three days later ( 3 days is just too long) and was informed that they some how missed the order and marked it shipped in their system. They apologized and refunded my shipping, which was $4 dollars. I got my order a few days later and when I had opened the box, they forgot to send the thermal paste I had bought (its $0.50, so I was not crying over this) and they forgot to send a wire disconnect tool that their video says is shipped with all their products, now these things are not the end of the world, I modified a paperclip so I could release the wires from their chips, but I was starting to become annoyed with the mistakes. The last thing is instructions for their products, there is almost nothing online and nothing was shipped with my order. Now the chips are not complicated and led was easy to figure out, but their driver took more guess work, particularly when hooking up the storm 5v PWM controller. There are 4 input connectors on the driver: Vin, Ground, Dim 1 and Dim 2. There was no information on were to hook up the pwm Ground wire, and being a poor man in a rich mans hobby, I didn't want to hook up the brand new controller wrong and fry it. I again emailed them and they took 2 days to get back to me, in which apparently the p/s ground and pwm ground are shared. I think this would have been important to give instructions for, because every driver I've seen online that take pwm signals have a separate ground from the power supply. Now I'm not trying to bash BlueAcro, maybe they have great customer service and I got the short end of the stick, but I didn't like the short end of the stick and I hope they read this review, make needed adjustments and be great company, because they make a great products. The Ugly: There only one thing I want to add here and it is the reflector that you can buy with the chip. I bought the 1/2 Acrostar and added the reflector/ diffuser to my order, the reflector seemed like a great idea to give the light more versatility on what corals I might want to have, but when I attached it to the chip it made half of my tank blue and the other half white. Now the reflector has these pegs sticking out of it and it can only fit flush with the led chip in only two positions, I tried both position and still my tank color all over the place. It seems that for whatever reason the reflector was ruining the color blending of the chip, even when I tried the diffuser and color blending was just bad. Maybe reflector was defective, but didn't feel like emailing them and waiting again. Conclusion: blueAcro makes great led chip and I would totally order another one when I have a need, even thinking about changing my 20g long tank to these led's. customer service is lacking but to me not a deal breaker, just hope that they can make some improvements and they will be a great option to the reefing community. I don't have any pictures yet of my light setup or the tank but I will post some soon. Peace out
  25. Lingwendil

    Lingwendil's 20 long

    Well, this has been set up for a little over a year. Originally I had set it up after a couple year hiatus from reefing (relocated and didn't have the room at the next couple places) in a 25 gallon (aquarium masters, same footprint as a 20 high) and swapped it all over to get a better layout for aquascaping and lighting coverage. I'm a simple man, so I'm running a Maxi-jet 600, a Zoo-Med 501 canister (mainly for a sponge and media) and an Aqueon Pro heater. Lighting is currently a DIY rig in a RapidLED designer heatsink, with a Luxeon Lime and a pair of "10W" chinese (one blue, one that is 1/3 cool white, and 2/3 royal blue) multichips per side. I currently have a couple BlueAcro Acrostar test boards on the way to swap in though! The current light isn't as blue as I like, but looks pretty good for how cheap and dirty it is. It's got a slightly warmer than 14k look, and the pics are actually pretty accurate to how it really looks. I have a pair of misbar clowns, because the five year old wanted one, and you can't have just one! These suckers were just a bit longer than a quarter when I got them, and now are a good 2.5" or so. The larger one is a deep orange, and the smaller one is almost stark yellow. The starry Blenny (the five year old named him "Fluffy" and it stuck!) is a very happy and enernaining puppy of a fish, definitely the star of the tank. Now for some terrible Pics- It's been up for a while, so I've got some nice coralline growth, and a ton of micro-dusters... Got a nice little Pipe Organ (one of my personal favorite corals!) Even have a little frag of the guy (from a piece that was hanging by a thread when I first bought it, will be neat to watch the growth over time) Nice little neon green tipped Toadstool (with baby that is ready to separate) next to what I believe is a Piece of Leptastrea? Better pic of the Leptastrea- Nice little Duncan starter frag- This Montipora was turd brown and about the size of a quarter when I first got it eight months ago, now it's about seven inches across, and ready to divide up at the back side... Here's a little piece of it that grew from a quarter-inch sized bit that stuck to an adjacent rock before the tank switchover, it's still got a lot of the original brown coloration... The stupid Zoas that just plain refuse to grow or die- And the stupid little frag of it that fell off one day on its own... Here's Fluffy, in one of his favorite spots to hide at whenever I try to get a pic with my phone... This guy has a ton of subtle little details that make him very handsome, if he will ever sit still... My nutrient export? Weekly water changes, and recently a small clod of Chaeto, just threw this in and we will see how fast it grows... The plan is eventual LPS domination, Blasto, Acans, maybe some torch, hammer, frogspawn... I want a Bubble coral or Elegance, but the ones I seem to always come across are either huge or stupid expensive. Not a big SPS guy, but maybe a couple Acro some Hydnophora, and Pavona. Once I figure out the new light I want some more Zoas but I never seem to have good luck with them! I'll try to get better pics up soon, and get some pics of the light setup. Pretty basic but a pretty decent setup, and soon it will be even better!
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