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Found 59 results

  1. LDD Led Drivers.

    Hey all, Small question. When using LDD Drivers for your led's i know the voltage is converted but what about amps and wattage. My LED's need about 130v, 100w and 0.7mA. LDD i had in mind Does the input need to be the same wattage and amperage or does that also get converted by the LDD's or LDH's
  2. Eco-Lamps KR93 for Sale

    Hello, Not sure if this is the right place but unfortunately I am having to sell my tank and with it my Eco-Lamps KR93 It is in great condition, currently on eBay number 152795623849 let my know if you have any questions, I’ll be happy to answer, i also have a few a few more bits from my tank on there also
  3. Selling my Kessil A150W Ocean blue (15k) fixture with goose neck hanger. I bought it off someone on here but never ended up using it. Works perfectly fine, no issues at all. I paid $150 a few years back for it, the only thing I believe is missing is the glass. Looking to get $90 shipped. PM me for any questions!
  4. So, putting together another 20 long this will b lps, softie only I have a 2 bulb t5, and a rapid led 700 Nano driver on a 1.5” wide heatsink that fits perfectly up against the t5 once mounted. The light will mount directly on tank-3-4” above water. So par is of no concern w this shallow tank. I want a blue heavy tank for lps & Zoas led is blue w 2) violet 420-430 led. T5 recommendations???
  5. Currently I have single ocean revive LED fixture over my 40 gallon breeder and I am not quite happy with the coverage. After seeing the new T5 LED hybrid that recently came out it seems like it would be easy to make the same thing. I was thinking of getting two T5 fixtures (probably 24 or 30 inch) and making a mount/holder using angle aluminum. Should be pretty easy. The other option for about the same cost would be purchasing a second ocean revive fixture to get better coverage. Any opinions on which would be better? Currently I have some zoas, green monti, green acro, hammer coral, and some basic acan frags. I want to go with whichever options allows the most variety and mixed reef options. Any thoughts?! Thanks!
  6. I have a lightly used like new Kessil a80 tuna sun fixture. It was used for about 4 months and I have decided to get out of planted tanks. Like new with the goosneck. I have the original box for the kessil. Any questions please ask. Thanks! $100 shipped via USPS. NOW $90 SHIPPED
  7. What is the maximum temperature LED Strips can be run at?
  8. So upgraded the stock lights on the Fluval EVO 13.5 to Current USA Orbit Marine LED. I was then thinking if it was a good idea to run the stock Fluval EVO lights as well (maybe just on blue). The EVO has 31 LEDs at 16w and the Orbit Marine has 72 LEDs at 18w. I did notice that the Fluval lights are much brighter (Not sure what this means in terms of output). The EVO measures 22", 15" deep, and 11" wide. I currently have the Orbit about 4-5 inches from the surface. The stock EVO light used to sit about 2-3 inches from the surface. These are the PAR rating for the Marine Orbit. I couldn't find PAR readings for the Fluval EVO stock light from the manufacturer; I did read a post on another reef forum where someone measured the PAR around 225 at the surface. Has anyone tried this? This is just stuff that I am thinking about.
  9. Hey Nano reef, Just a quick question about placement of corals, So I have had a New Nanobox light running for about a week now, and am wondering when Can I start bringing my pocillopora up from the sandbed, and how high should I go at a time? currently it is about 18" from the light, and am wondering if I can move it to the top of my rocks now which are ~12" from the light or to put it halfway up the rock(~15" from light) and wait another week before to the top? Anyways just wondering how do people do it here on the forums and the best tips for it? Would not like to stress the coral too much during this, and thank you to everyone who replies
  10. Looking for a kessil A160WE for my 14g cube. Send me your best offer.
  11. LOCAL PICKUP ONLY PLEASE, in SWFL, NOT SHIPPING! Used DIY hybrid reef light, made of a 6 bulb Tek T5ho fixture, and replaced two bulbs with a current orbit marine LED light (~36w). The bulbs are 39w, 2 x ATI blue plus, an aquablue special, and giesemann super actinic. This is a really great blend of color with the LEDs and has produced awesome coral growth and colors. The LED is controlled with the current ramp pro timer, can mimic sunrise and sunset. The T5 can be put on timers to come on in pairs of two in between. Really great feature for only $225! The bulbs still have 6 months of life left in them, I just moved and downsized tanks. The light was mounted about 14" above my fish tank, no splash guard, has a little surface rust, but it is a sound fixture. Please email above or call/text 850-570-1423. Images are of MY coral grown under this light, including SPS, crocea clam, anemone. All flourished! Two used 36" LED light strips. One unknown brand actinic only, quality reflector, so might be ecoexotic or reef tech. The other is a dimmable BML (Build my LED) full spectrum light with splash guard/diffuser. Both come with power supplies. I bought them used a year ago but never got around to using them, now i moved and downsized my aquarium. These would be great supplementation to a T5 fish tank light, or can grow coral in a shallow enough tank (<20"). Selling BOTH INCLUDED with the hybrid fixture. Please PM or call/text 850-570-1423. Thank you.
  12. Hey everyone, I wanted to reach out about a project I've been working on for some time now. Blue and actinic light from LEDs has been ruining my reef aquarium photography for a long time. Probably since LEDs became popular. I actually think it's one of the biggest problems with our hobby online. Everyone is sharing this brilliant pics but they're all so blueeee and either you have to spend a ton of time tweaking the hue and saturation of each photography (with mixed results) or you just post away. I love the idea of using DSLR and shooting in RAW to get your levels just right, but I just don't always feel like getting all my gear out and then doing all the adjusting in post. So, with that, I'd like to introduce the Aquarium Camera App (iPhone/iPad and Android I'm working on). I developed it to color correct the actinic light on your corals from LEDs in real-time. Most importantly, it works it's magic on the sensor BEFORE your iphone/ipad has a chance to compress the image and permanently mess up your tank photos. It works with video or photos and I think it's just what our hobby has needed. Version 1.0 had some great feedback and ReefBuilders.com said it was "...an essential tool for the reef tank photography". But a got a lot of aquarists emailing me saying that the blue light correction wasn't quite powerful enough. I went back to the drawing board (quadrupled the lines of code) and just this week released version 2.0 after getting 170 reef hobbiests to test it on every popular LED light we could muster: AI Prime's, Radions, Kessils, Coralife, etc. A few even got some good results when the whites were almost completely off. It's MADNESS!!! haha It's now live, and I've love a few of you to check it out as really this is something I feel like our hobby has needed for some time now. You can sign up for beta testing or download it off the store. All proceeds will go to the beers bought during "the making of" and if there's anything leftover, hopefully a couple frags (looking at you WWC).
  13. UPDATE I have these black Hybrids I am no longer using. They are the 4x24” T5’s and 4x v3Led cluster. They show some wear but I’m sure Dave could repaint to whatever you want. Also you’ll need new acrylic light covers. But 950 for both shipped or 550 each!!!!
  14. What's up everyone? First post. This forum seemed most appropriate for what I have, and what I want to accomplish, so here I go... (to preface, I have done HOURS of researching before making this post, and previously ran a 90 gallon salt fish only tank) All I've done is prep the tank and put together the stand, no water or anything...Here's what I currently have to work with: HARDWARE: JBJ Nano Cube 28 gallon intermediate LED - stock everything JBJ stand (hey, it was free haha) Cobalt Aquatics NeoTherm 100w heater 2x Eheim Jager 250w heaters (from my 90 gallon) Ocean Pulse Duo wave maker (hooked to stock pumps) 1x MaxiJet 1200 power head (extra) 2x MaxiJet 900 power heads (extra) 2 small mercury thermometers FILTRATION/CHEMICALS: Aqua Advantage 2000 inline UV sterilizer, 15 watt (from my 90 gallon) Marineland Magnum 350 canister filter (from my 90 gallon - I have the basket + paper filters) Sera filter wool 3.5oz Chemi-Pure 5oz Purigen 100ml with small fine mesh bag Kent synthetic reef salt crushed coral substrate POWER: Belkin Surge Master surge protector 8 outlet (2 constant on) Titan Apollo 9 dual timer FOOD: Eheim 3581 automatic feeder (won't fit due to lid) New Life Spectrum Thera +A 4.4oz TESTING: API master test kit Coralife Deep Six hydrometer Instant Ocean hydrometer MISC: approx 40lbs base rock 2 small nets magnetic algae scrubber algae scrubber (wand style) 5 gallon water jug with cap + funnel to fill What I want in the tank: Fish mostly, as many as possible, with base rock and live rock with hardy, easy soft corals - just something that is fish based, but is also visually appealing and has areas to swim through and hide with good water current Things I'm trying to avoid: No sump, period... I want as little inside the tank itself and filter area as possible, so HOB stuff is preferable No chiller (I keep my place very cold, and winter is almost here) Not interested in buying a different media basket No additional pumps/hardware visible inside the tank itself (behind in filter area is OK) Things I want to try to achieve: Use the hood and stock LED lights (I have crazy cats) Re-use my UV light (if possible) Keep the media basket Everything added is either HOB or external - no additional pumps or hardware inside the tank As few water changes as possible (I live very far from anywhere I can get salt, and I ran my last tank with doing virtually NO water changes) SO! That all brings me to these questions... 1 - What would YOU do with all this given my criteria? I'm open to ideas, and if I have equipment that just will flat out not work, I am open to selling it if anyone's interested. 2 - Is it possible to re-use my UV light? If so, how? 3 - should I replace my factory return pumps with my extra MaxiJet 900's, or would there be much benefit? 4 - what am I missing? 5 - how would you setup the media basket with what I have? I'm sure I will think of more later. I know there are some VERY knowledgeable people on here, and I am open to ideas and want this tank to be successful. I haven't put a drop in it yet, and want to wait until I know everything is how I want it. Looking forward to some feedback!
  15. So today is finally here, today I move from the original Pico to the new one. I figured I would start a new journal and detail it from now as well as go into more detail about the setup, what was built and what was bought. FTS 10/8/17 More to come... Set up consists of : -2 X 2.5 gallon aquariums (Total tank volume after rock and media displacement is roughly 3 gallons) -Roughly 5lbs of live rock -256gph pond pump with two outlets - one up top for surface tension, one lower for flow through middle of tank -Diy led, 4 blue, 6 royal blue, 4 warm white and 3 cool whites on 3 channels powered by laptop power supplies and dc motor dimmers. -LEDs are 3 w, 3v ordered off ebay, non branded -Tank was drilled with a dremel and Bulkheads are made from male and female pvc adapters (After tank was drilled and bulkheads were siliconed in I mixed and poured a two part epoxy resin about 1/4 inch thick to reinforce the glass and pcv) -Sump is a simple 2 chamber design, water flows through filter floss-chemipure-a box of MarinePure biofilter media-purigen-return pump -DIY ATO - Float switch connected to DC 12v relay which controls a 40gph pump in the reservoir -Temperature controller is a 5$ board bought off ebay, set temp and a fan will kick on when needed, it sits directly over the return side of the sump. Keeps the temperature between 79-81 Coral list: Hammer Candycane /trumpet Kenya tree Pink xenia Duncan GSP Clove polyp Purple gorgonian Orange rhodactis mushroom Green rhodactis mushroom yellow/green plate coral five kinds of palys - will update closeup pictures for help with identification eleven different types of zoas - will update closeup pictures for help with identification *when it comes to zoas and palys I have come to learn that most of them have made up names. My 'laser lemons' were actually purple people eaters... * Any questions about the setup, feel free to ask.
  16. Hello, looking to purchase a Black AI prime HD or Nanobox Duo. I have an IM 20 and I am looking to upgrade the stock lights.
  17. Hey guys! I will be traveling Wednesday - Sunday this week to visit Innovative Marine, attend Reefapalooza LA and visit customers. If you are in the area please check out @Marine Depot booth! They will be showing off a NanoBox Mini Flare over a planted aquarium. I will be attending the show for a couple hours a day so lets link up! I would love to meet a few of the west coast customer base. These events are some of the best out there. Don't miss it! -Dave
  18. Hello Nano Reefers! I am in the process of updating my lights for my IM 20 nano reef with 2 Skkye 18w lights. I am running a LPS / Softy tank. I might decide to insert low light SPS in the future. I was leaning toward purchasing an AI Prime HD. The light has been well received and Jake from Reef Builders has previously raved about the light. I also consider a Kessil or Nanobox, but they are currently out of the budget at this time. I recently stumbled across a little-known LED fixture that appears to be somewhat promising. I am talking about the Coral Box Moon. I am now trying to decide between a Coral Box Moon or an AI Prime HD. I am interested in the Coral Box because it is slightly cheaper, comes with a mount, and has comparable specs. Does anyone on this forum have experience with both of these lights? I would like to hear from a few Coral Box owners. There are enough AI Prime owners that have provided glowing reviews, and I am open to hearing more reviews. Any suggestions? Coral Box Specs: WIDE MORE! COVER MORE PLACE! LED MORE! COLD MORE! To Come First Circle LED, up to 175mm x 175mm Cover all area on your tank, still thinner as 34mm 6.89" x 6.89" x 3.4" inch LED up to 59Watt 18 LED Chips Centralised Cross LED Wide Enough Lumen on Tank Moon LED using Aluminium with Plastic Cover Fast Cooling on the LED! No Burn smell with harmful in your home ENJOY 2 TYPES OF LENS Our Crystal Ultra Lens Maximum on your Lighting Range 90 Degree Lens strength Lighting on small tank without over burn of coral 120 Degree Lens Wide More for 24" inch Tank CROSS POWER SUPPLY 1 Power supply for 2 LED. Minimum on your power source SIZE Length 6.89in. (17.5cm) Width 6.89in. (17.5cm) Height 1.34in. (3.4cm) LED SPECIFICATION Channel 1 White: CREE XTE 5W 7000-8300K 4pcs Channel 2 Blue: CREE XPE 3W Royal Blue 450-465mm 5pcs Channel 3 :Epileds Purple 3535 420-430nm 3W 1PCS + Deep Ocean Blue 445-450nm 3W 1 PCS Channel 4 Moonlight Blue: CREE XPE 3W 465-485nm 2pcs Channel 5 Green: CREE XPE 3W 520-535nm 1pcs + Philips 3W Cyan 490-515nm Channel 6 Red: CREE XPE 3W 620-630nm 1pcs + Cree Amber 585-595nm 1pcs 3W
  19. Anyone interested in a brand new in the box kessil a360we 340$
  20. Hi everyone, A couple of weeks ago I was given a JBJ Intermediate 28 gal. Nano-Cube LED along with it's mature live rock, some invertebrates and a disaster of a hair algae bloom. I have zero experience with saltwater tanks, so I'm learning everything as I go. I wanted to share what's happened so far, get some help identifying things in the tank, and let you know that I am open to any advice people would like to share. The background on the tank is that the live rock, sand and inhabitants come from a 12 year old tank which sprung a leak; and everything was moved into the 28 Nano about a year ago. Survivors in the tank are 3 urchins, a sea star, 2 snails, a hermit crab, a small coral frag, and a super healthy looking aiptasia. We started by manually removing the worst of the hair algae (it was so bad it was coming out by the handful), moving the invertebrates and live rock out, filtering the worst of the particulates out of around 10 gallons of the original water, and draining and gently scrubbing the tank clean by hand. I tried to leave calcifying algae intact where I could. So starting with a clean, empty tank: I added 20 pounds of Arag-Alive sand, all the live rock (which I just set in the sand), and a mix of about 50% filtered tank water and 50% clean pacific ocean water. This is what it looked like initially: http://degenerate.org/jbj/IMG_20170910_191457187.jpg After the particulates settled, I put the inverterbrates into the tank, and later added a mixed dozen snails and hermits to help work on the algae. The water clarified beautifully, which is when I discovered the aiptasia (for anyone who's played final fantasy, this is definately a malboro), who thankfully had taken up residence inside a discarded shell so it was easy to remove. Next I figured out how the filtration system worked and discovered that one of the powerheads was not functioning; it's a three stage of which I replaced the mechanical filter and the activated carbon, and I was able to repair the powerhead. The Nano-cube comes with an Ocean Pulse Duo Wavemaker, which I have set on a 90 second cycle alternating the powerheads, no idea if this is good or not. The light hood of the tank has two separately powered LED sets, one for "Day light" at 14K and a blue one for "Moon" at 465nm. Again no idea what I should be doing with these, but I currently have "Day light" running for 13 hours per day and "Moon" turned off. I was told later on that my live rock should be making as little contact with the sand as possible for maximum water flow and to make little caves for critters, so I rearranged everything (and my wife told me I was doing it wrong several times) and finally wound up with this: http://degenerate.org/jbj/IMG_20170917_200912592.jpg Levels tested good on the tank water, so I added a juvenile Black Darwin Ocellaris a few days ago. He is a little hard to feed (trying both 1mm and 2mm PE Mysis pellets, and I just ordered some formula 1 flakes as well) since he never sits still, but he seems to be a lot less frantic than when he was first introduced to the tank. Not sure if this is normal behavior or part of the acclimation process, but as far as I've seen he spends all of his time hugging the glass of the tank, and none of it exploring the rockwork. On a whole, the water clarity is excellent. Hair algae is still growing noticably but not uncontrollably, though I am having to remove quite a bit by hand. One recommendation I received to help with the hair algae was to add a tailspot blenny to the tank. I've also received advice that I should add a maximum of 4 fish to the reef tank, would love feedback on that as well. Research is suggesting that I wait 2-4 weeks between adding new fish to the tank, what are people's experience with different wait times? I just ordered a protein skimmer, is there any other absolutely necessary equipment I should look into? Plans for future fish are currently: 1 Tail Spot Blenny (Ecsenius stigmatura) 1 Exquisite Firefish (Nemateleotris exquisita) 1 Six Line Wrasse (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia) With the ocellaris already in the tank, should they work well together? Any suggestions for utility invertebrates that could help out in the tank? Also, i'm taking my best guess identifying the things already in the tank: Some kind of tube worm? http://degenerate.org/jbj/IMG_20170911_071712598_HDR.jpg No idea, and I haven't seen it since I took this picture http://degenerate.org/jbj/IMG_20170911_164315933.jpg Also no idea, but it seems to be growing on the live rock http://degenerate.org/jbj/IMG_20170912_113211043.jpg These are in several spots around the tank, and they flouresce under blacklight http://degenerate.org/jbj/IMG_20170912_122622046.jpg Some kind of starfish? I've seen quite a few hanging onto things http://degenerate.org/jbj/IMG_20170918_155642429.jpg This is the mature aiptasia I removed from the tank; I've only found two tiny ones growing that I was (fingers crossed) able to kill successfully. I think it's neat looking, is there any use for it? http://degenerate.org/jbj/IMG_20170919_110157687.jpg Bubble algae? I'm trying to remove this carefully http://degenerate.org/jbj/IMG_20170919_110232295.jpg A neat shelled tiny snail my local shop gave me http://degenerate.org/jbj/IMG_20170919_181415261.jpg Banded Serpent Starfish? http://degenerate.org/jbj/IMG_20170919_181524807.jpg Sputnik Pencil Urchin? http://degenerate.org/jbj/IMG_20170919_184058569.jpg Soft Coral Frag, but which kind? http://degenerate.org/jbj/IMG_20170922_104943343.jpg What kind of Hermit Crab? http://degenerate.org/jbj/IMG_20170922_105753824.jpg What kind of snail? (We call him the old man of the sea) http://degenerate.org/jbj/IMG_20170922_110013478_HDR.jpg Sorry for all the outlinks, but photo uploading was giving me grief. Thanks for reading, and thanks in advance for your input.
  21. Hey everyone, I've been looking into this off and on for a while since I built this tank, but I can't seem to come to a head on which lighting would be best for me. I did skim through the led lighting section for similar tanks and looked at product details but they did not really tell me anything I needed to make a definitive decision.(they actually made me have more questions than solve) I have a 24" x 14" x 15" ~22g tank I built when I upgraded from a 10g a few months ago. without the back sump, the tank is 24" x 14" x 12" I think these dimensions are very similar to a IM nuvo 20g if im not wrong. My current lighting is two 20" finnex stingrays set to 9 hrs per day, I dont know if this lighting is really considered sufficient since at least in the FW side, it is considered a low-medium light with a par of around 30 I believe(par at the bottom of tank 14"). Well I thought I could find a light by looking at what people are using on their nuvo 20g tanks, and there seems to be a few options From what I've seen the options are; kessil a160 tuna blue 2 kessil a80 tuna blue AI Prime 24-36" current orbit marine My corals I currently keep are an acan, blasto, xenia, GSP, ricordia, and few zoanthids. afaik this is considered a mixed reef, I plan to shoot for a possible birds nest seriatoporia coral in the highest part of my tank, and/or possibly some sort of frogspawn/hammer. I would like to keep my options open so if possible I can use low-high lighting. another bit to add to this, but I notice at least with SW lighting, theres not really much attention given to red LED specifically 660nm part of the spectrum, is there any reason for this? In FW there is usually red added to the LED array for the second usable section of light by plants(440nm being the first and 660nm being the second) I dont quite understand the imbalance, do corals not use this? anyways, Any recommendations, experiences, or advice will be extremely helpful as Im still wrapping my head on this after quite a long time at looking at it. here is a pic of my tank for reference, and again thanks for anyone who can help or reply.
  22. I'm selling a Current USA Orbit Marine Aquarium LED Light, bought in June of this year, because I am breaking down the tank that it was used on. Its in great shape, only in use since June, I can post pictures once I get home but besides a little dust its pretty much new. Heres the amazon listing for the fixture, its the 24''-36'' adjustable one. Im looking for $100 or OBO, willing to ship or Local Orlando Fl meet up.
  23. SKYYE LED 18?

    Does anyone have any experience with this light? Its being sold with an IM 10 fusion that I am going to purchase locally. Just reading the specs, it doesnt seem like it would be powerful enough for SPS and I cant find a whole lot about it online. Was wondering if anyone can share their firsthand experience with this light. https://www.saltwateraquarium.com/skkye-led-light-18-watt-clamp-innovative-marine/?utm_medium=googleshopping&utm_source=bc&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsav_tMCp1gIVlFuGCh0U_wUHEAQYAiABEgJsvvD_BwE Thanks!
  24. Reposting as I got it cleaned up and tested it fully to verify there is no damage to pucks or controls. I may have overreacted... Maxspect R420R 120w 16kDimensions - 20.5” x 10” x 0.9”Weight - 4.4 lbIncludes 120 and 90 optics , Tank Mount legs - No tightening screws, never need them. No Original Box or Instructions. I think I have a PDF of them, but it is readily available on Marine Depot product page here. The same link has info on the LED array. I have been running this light on my JBJ 45 RL for a little over a year now. Has been replaced by a Nanobox Quad so I am selling it to recoup some of the cost. I picked this up from a fellow reefer here on nano-reef.com and thought it was only fitting to pass onto another forum member. Light is programmable for a day/night cycle - ramps up/down to simulate sunrise and sunset. My peak mid day is 40% whites and 75% blues on a very slow and gradual 10 hour cycle. Light has been great but when the wife okays a Nanobox you don't argue, you just ask Dave to send the invoice and pay ASAP! Looking for $175 OBO Shipped from Kansas City, and shipping included in price unless you want to upgrade shipping to something other then standard ground.
  25. Selling my 24'' Current Marine Orbit PRO VERSION. Used for 2 months, with blues @60%, whites @ 30% on my 20 long. I decided I missed the t5 & went back. This light does very well, all frags grew in size & colored up nicely. Im just old school I guess & missed my t5's. My next tank will be bigger so I have no use for this light. Comes w/ everything, ramp timer, remote, instructions, original box. $150 including shipping.
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