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Found 5 results

  1. So this is my first saltwater/reef tank; I've had several FW setups since 2011. Tank: Fluval EVO 13 Pump: Stock Light: AI Prime HD Heater: EHEIM 50W Skimmer: Reef Glass Filter media: InTank media basket for 1st chamber with 2x chemi pure blue nano, filter floss (some carbon); also use phosguard as needed Substrate: Arag-alive bimini pink sand - about 4lbs Wavemaker: Aqamai KPS I set up my tank with live rock and sand on 7/6/17. Corals: Utter chaos paly frogspawn green hammer purple tip hammer green star polyps ricordeas green toadstool leather Duncan mushrooms white and pink xenia Red Goniopora Livestock: 1frostbite clown 1 six-line wrasse 2 green bubbletip anemone hermit crabs nassarius snail scarlet shrimp turbo snail FTS as of 7/6/18:
  2. HingleMcCringleberry

    Living with ich: Can/Should it be done?

    Hi all, I’m looking for opinions on wether it is worth trying to cure my ich. I have ich ich in my 30 gallon reef tank. It broke out about 2 months ago and all the fish made it. I bought some reef safe medicine that claimed it would cure ich knowing it wouldn’t cure it. I do credit the medicine with lessening the burden on my fish and allowing them to fight through it. My my understanding is that ich is definitely still alive in my tank. Just not in plague proportions. I’ve heard fish start to build a degree of immunity to a particular strain of ich after they fight off the initial infection. So there’s just a small amount of ich feeding on my fish in low enough numbers that my fish maintain their immune systems and appear asymptomatic. And I guess I could be ok with that. It feels precarious. If the ich ever reaches critical mass then it will start to tax the immune system of the fish. The stress of fighting it off weakens their immune system and it snowballs into another outbreak. That’s my understanding. But can I avoid giving ich that foothold? My fish get along great. My parameters are stable. And I don’t plan on adding any more fish. So all the biggest triggers to stress a fish and start an outbreak are mostly neutralized? in the meantime, as my fish continue to fight the daily battle of enduring a handful of ich bites, they are slowly building more immunity. Like a cruel vaccine? Maybe? ive also heard from someone that ich can only reproduce and undergo its lifecycle a finite number of times (many years worth). But still. If all my fish hang on, and nothing new is added, could it be possible to make it to the finish line and beat ich by running out the clock? there are tons of encrusting corals that cover a maze of mat holes and crevices in the tank. I could only remove the fish by tearing it all down and sacrificing a lot of coral die off. Can I live with ich? Has anyone done it? Is it really worth tearing down my tank to kill it?
  3. HingleMcCringleberry

    Leopard wrasse care

    Hi all. ive been trying to plan fish for my 32 gal bio cube. I think a leopard wrasse would be awesome but some places say they’re really hard to care for. Why is that? Do they eat pellet/flake food or need live pods? Also some places say they’re listed as difficult because they struggle to survive shipping. Are they hardy once acclimated?
  4. 24tofreedom

    AI nano

    any ideas to build my own that holds it
  5. I have an idea for a 10 gallon tank setup and I really want some advice and criticism on my plans.I have a 10 gallon tank and a stand that i built for it. I plan on using this DIY PVC overflow(youtube.com/watch?v=UZytENJZtJw&t=162s) down to a 10 gallon sump hidden in the stand. I will have a ball valve in line to adjust flow from the overflow and also a ball valve on the line from the return pump.For livestock in the tank I would really like to get a small clownfish and maybe a goby. I really love the frogspawn, hammer, and torch corals as well as zoas. Maybe pulsing xenias on a rock in the sandbed to keep them from tanking over the tank. Also I plan to put some type of cleaning crew in to keep everything clean.I cant remember how much sand I will need, but I was thinking about 10 lbs of live sand and 10 lbs of live rock for the display and then more rubble and sand in the sump for filtration.The want to follow this(youtube.com/watch?v=_-oanakiI7k) for my sump build. Basically 3 chambers, with the overflow pipe running into a filter sock. In that filter sock I want to put chemipure blue nano. In the second large well I want to put the sand and rubble rock and maybe macro algae like chaeto. Maybe even introduce some copepods into this section of the sump. Then the next is a bubble trap and the final section would be used for the pump. I would like to know what size pump would be good for a 10 gallon tank, and also how many times per hour should the water flow through the sump?Eventually I plan on adding a DIY ATO if this is feasible.Here are just some of the questions I have so far!QuestionsWhere should the float switch for the ATO be located? In the tank or in the sump?What type of light do i need? I don't want to get too crazy in terms of what corals I want to keep because a.) its only a 10 gallon tank and b.) I don't want to spend a whole lot of money on exotic coral species.How often should i do water changes and how much water to change?How do I know what size pump to use in my sump?Do I need to use a powerhead, or would the return pump add enough to provide enough motion in the tank?According to the video the pic overflow will be 352gph. Is this too much for the tank I'm doing? I could use a smaller pipe and reduce this, or add a ball valve to reduce this. If i continue with this would a 400 gph pump be good enough or should i go with a 500 with a ball valve in the line to reduce the flow?
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