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  1. Michael92g

    20g Long Setup

    I am currently trying to setup a 20G long reef tank. I want to have the tank FULL of lps such as torches, hammers, and frogspawn but I can't go without an anemone. I've had my 10g for about 2 and a half years and want something better. I am mainly contemplating between an AI Prime HD or a pair of Kessil A80 for lighting. Also, what would you recommend for a filter? It will be sitting on a breakfast bar as the center of attention. I wouldn't mind a small canister as long as it isn't really loud. I don't want to skimp but I don't want to be unreasonable. I also don't know where to start for a power head. Seems like everything is overpowered for a 20g. What other equipment/hardware would you recommend? Any advice is greatly appreciated!
  2. ahouseofscales

    Adjusting Powerhead Flow?

    Hi all, I need some help with my powerhead. I have two points of flow generation in my tank (a 10 gal nano reef w/ GSP, xenia, palys, zoas, and a mushroom): a 10 gal Aqueon Silentstream and an Aquatop MaxFlow CPS-1 Powerhead. The Silentstream has very minimal flow, which is why I added the CPS-1, which has a flow rate of 256 gph. However I find that this is a little bit too strong for my tank. Is there any way to adjust the flow of this powerhead?
  3. i got a pair 4 days ago and they are always on the top left from my aquarium, never seen them go anywhere else and they seem to struggle with the flow. They have been eating since 3 days but only small amounts. Are they just getting used to the tank or is there something else wrong i have a blue marine reef 60 with an additional pump. Brand is tunze but I forgot the what the exact one was?
  4. BGJames

    Detritus on sandbed

    Hi guys, I keep getting this build up on detritus looking stuff building up on my sandbed. Its building up in the low flow areas of the tank (I will add more flow) but Im curious as to what it is. Ive only got 2 clowns, a hermit and a turbo snail. Is it just poo or something else? Tia
  5. Hello fellow reefers 😊 I have (2) custom made corner overflow boxes (both a left and a right side) that were originally made for an ADA 60P 17g aquarium (approx. 24"L x 12"W x 14"H). I made these for my son's specifications at the time, but he has since acquired two young and rambunctious cats in his house, so he'll now need a reef system with a fully enclosed canopy. So basically, tested in freshwater to perform properly, but never used in saltwater. The ADA 60P aquarium you'll see in the photos has since been sold to a person doing freshwater shrimp, so these reef specific corner overflows are available for those who want/need to have all equipment located inside the aquarium...without the equipment showing. Features: 1. 3/16" high-gloss black acrylic with rounded corners (shaped to minimize space intrusion into the aquarium) 2. Tunze Silence 210 gph pump with Hydor rotating nozzle (designed for easy removal/install to facilitate cleaning) 2. Hand-cut overflow slots (located on 'inside' corner for minimum line-of sight impact) 4. Bottom plate with silicone feet to reduce/eliminate pump vibrational noise 5. Top plate to reduce noise 6. 1/16" black gloss acrylic siding (to hide equipment/prevent light penetration) 7. Room enough for typical aquarium heater, thermometer and chemical filtration bag if desired (these items NOT included) As they say, pictures speak louder than words :) Original configuration idea with both corner overflows installed, black background & black siding: (was pretty sharp!) Right corner (top removed): Tunze pump/Hydor nozzle assembly: Tunze pump/Hydor nozzle installed: The overflows were made for an aquarium 14" in height, but can be adapted to an aquarium down to 12" in height by cutting material from the bottom (ex: for a 12" height aquarium, cut 2" inches off the overflow bottom and 2" off the clear plastic tubing used to connect the pump to the rotating nozzle, then use aquarium safe silicone to fix in place). I'd recommend one overflow for LPS/Softies/Mushies and two overflows for high-flow SPS. Price: Only $35/each (includes ground shipping anywhere within the Continental USA). PM me if interested.
  6. Hey guys I bought an already established tank (nano reef) in the fluval evo 13.5g. I have 2 questions one more important than the other but wondering on both. so I transported the aquarium with a few inches of water in it and the inhabitants in bags (1 hermit crab, 2 slugs, 2 bubble tip anemone, 1 anemone shrimp, tile of gsp, some zoas, live rock and live sand) the live rock was in a 5g pain with the tanks previous water. I also picked up 2 clownfish and 1 blue damselfish my brother bought me a hammerhead coral. so got home and added the previous water to the tank, then let the bags all float and acclimate. Then made more salt water and checked salinity, all salinities of previous, new and the fishes marine store water similar within .01-.02 of each other. I slowly added the anemones clean up crew etc. I added a bit of the tank water to the fish bags then sat for 5 min or so and then just let them sort of swim out when they were ready. I tried following the directions best I could. so In the tank things look good, the coral is slowly opening one anemone moved completely and the other is ok same spot bit open but closing up maybe because it’s night now? Do they do that? my main concern is that the 2 clown fish are staying primarily in the one top corner. The blue damsel is sort of swimming back and forth from one rock arch to another rock cave and seems fine not going to the top at all. I don’t see anything particularly concerning about the clowns except they are mostly at the top and more in one corner. First question is should I be concerned? I want them to acclimate well and be happy and healthy I’m so paranoid can’t sleep. Is there anything specific I should watch for to catch any warning signs and help? second question I can’t seem to keep the back chamber same level as the main, it’s about an inch or more lower. Is this normal? Am I doing something wrong? Bonus question should I have the pump nozzles aimed more at the anemones and coral or above them, away from them? I feel like I did so much research and now I’m the moment I’m just panicked on night one praying everyone is happy inside! Help 😮
  7. chris_pull

    Help with flow...

    Hi all, I have searched around online but I'm massively overthinking the flow in my tank and can't seem to stop tweaking my wave maker in search of "optimum flow". Can anyone please help put my mind at ease?! I have an 80L (20g) aquarium that's about twice as long as it is tall. I have two rock formations with a "valley" in the middle. The rocks are placed up to the middle of the aquarium and there's plenty of space on all sides of them for water to circulate. In the larger rock pile, there's also a "tunnel" in the middle. I have a large canister filter (rated for an aquarium 5 times this size) with pretty good flow from the outlet in the right corner of the tank – manufacturers guidance says this produces 1100 l/h (250 g/h) of flow, but obviously take that with a pinch of salt. I also have a random flow nozzle on the outlet. On the left, I have an SW-2 jebao wave maker (the least powerful version). Both of these flow generators are in the back corners of the tank, pointing slightly at the surface and into the centre. Where these flow streams hit, they collide and push water down and left and right, so that it circulates back round to the top corners to be pushed out again. I am fairly happy with the "patten" of flow (two "circles" that flow around the two rock piles, essentially) but I can't decided on (1) the strength I should set the wave maker at and (2) what flow mode to use. Initially, I didn't think much about the flow and it was probably too strong, but since I've started adding corals, I can now visually see the effects of the flow in the movement of the corals. My question essential boils down to whether I should optimise flow for the corals or for the fish. I have two clowns, a yellow clown goby and a royal gramma. The clowns have decided to host the sand in the right backhand corner of the aquaria, which is great because I never see them. The clown gobby is a fairly new addition and sort of darts around but mostly hangs out near the clowns. The royal gramma has a cave that it hides in most of the time, also near the clowns. The result is essentially an empty looking tank with all the fish movement concentrated in the far right hand side of the tank. At first I put this down to fish being weird but I noticed when all the flow is off for feeding, the fish happily swim around the tank, including the gramma that is normally hidden. This has led me to question if my flow is too strong and so the fish are being restricted to the side of the tank with the least movement. It might also not be a coincidence that the fish are at the opposite end of the wave maker, which is undoubtedly more powerful than the canister outlet. On the other hand, I can't tell if I have enough flow for the corals. When I look at people's videos online, their corals are blowing around like crazy, whereas mine sort of gently move about, unless I really max the flow. Is coral movement a good indicator of flow? I believe I have good circulation, in that food moves all around the aquarium and I don't think there's any build up of detritus, but does good flow mean by corals should be swaying around loads? I've been fiddling around with the short pulse mode, constant mode, surge mode, and the strength of flow on the Wavemaker (it can do 500-2000 L/H) and can't really decide if one is better than the other. What I want is to ensure is that the corals move around enough in the water and that the fish aren't all piled up at one end of the tank. When I look on other threads people tend to joke that as long as the fish aren't flat against the glass, crank the flow up. But surely you want your fish to be able to swim happily around the tank? Having said that, I know the fish I have are not open water swimmers, and, if in the wild they would also generally stick to the rocks and have to "fight" the currents, then that's fine. It's just a shame that there's one half of the tank without any fish movement. Coral-wise, I have a mix of soft (zoas, leathers, gorgonian), lps (Duncans, goniopora) and "easy" sps (birds nest/pavona). I've only been adding corals for the last month or so and the tank is still pretty bare. Sorry for the long, rambling post. As I say, I've been massively over thinking this and just wish an expert could come and adjust it for me haha! Any advice would be most welcome! Chris
  8. Hello everyone! Long time lurker, first time poster here 👋🏼 I'm an avid but new lover of plants and saltwater aquariums, and this space has been instrumental in being able to learn so much in a short amount of time. So far, I have a pretty successful 10g AIO with 2 clowns, some macro, and a few LPS going. But recently I found and bought a used AI Prime HD and decided I wanted to set up a 5g planted macro tank with my first light: a fluval sea nano. Now I want to keep this as simple as possible and buy as little extra equipment as I need to. This is where I would like your input. I got a 50w Aqueon heater and I have an Eheim Skim350 that I occasionally run on my 10g- could I use that for flow and minimal filtration? The system would mostly be running on biological filtration and water changes. As a thought also, is live sand enough? Im still working out the scape in my head but it's a question I had in my head 🤔 I don't plan on having animals in here except a clean up crew and maybe a yellow goby? (Is this appropriate or too small a volume for the fish?) Thank you for anyone reading this and those that might respond 🙂
  9. Hey guys! Setting up my first saltwater tank. It's a 10 gallon IM Fusion nano. Wondering if this powerhead placement will be ok. It's a koralia 425 + 95gph stock return pump (top right of pic). Trying to hide the PH in the back left, with return outlet top right. Flow hits front glass and swirls around. Will this do for a mixed reef tank? Planning on getting SPS eventually down the line. Thanks!!
  10. I wanted to get your input on upgrading circulation in my biocube 32. It's been set up for ~ 14 months and I have been using stock return pump with ~500 gph coralia powerhead in top left corner pointing up and forward from early on (see pic below). Over time I have been adding a vatiety of sps corals to the top portion of the rocks. They have been growing, but I feel like polyps are being moved too gently by the current. I would like to give them more of a beating. On the other hand I don't want too much flow ripping at the hammer on the bottom left and the brain coral on the sand. So so do you think I should put an icecap 1k gyre along the top horizontally or get an mp10 for the right side of the tank? One thought I have against MP10 is that I like having unobstructed view of the tank from all 3 sides, but obviously can't have it all. Any other ideas? Or should I just leave it alone since the corals seem to be getting by and better is the enemy of good?
  11. Hi all. I picked up a coral beauty angelfish for my 30-gallon tank. My 30 has most of my collection of corals and I got unlucky and got a coral beauty that picks on all of them. I also have a 20-gallon tank set up that isn't fully stocked yet so I have moved the fish to that tank. I think 20 gallons is a little small for a fish that size and I had an Idea that I thought might help but I want to get advice first. I've posted to this forum before about getting a tang and everyone informed me of their need to do lots of swimming and that my tanks just couldn't provide the needed swimming space. That got me thinking. If bigger fish or fish with a more active lifestyle need to get more exercise to be healthy and happy then could I supplement more tank space with more water flow. Obviously, it would never be a substitute for actual swimming room but if I increase the flow a lot would the tank maybe feel larger to the fish since it needs to swim harder to get from one side to the other? Could increasing the flow help my coral beauty be healthier and happier in my 20 gallon? Right now my 20 has a small powerhead that is rated for 200 gph and a hang-off protein skimmer and two hang-off filters that add some flow as well. I have a bubble tip anemone in my 20 and it's in a perfect location where it can't bother my zoas and frogspawn which are the only corals in the 20. I don't want a change in flow to inspire my nem to pack up and move so I don't want to add more flow if I don't have to. But I'm totally prepared to take that risk if you all recommend that more flow will help a larger fish feel more at home in a borderline tolerable tank. Let me know what you all think!
  12. Azure Phoenix Reefing

    Montipora Digitata polyp extension question

    I recently got my first SPS frag, a blueish Montipora Digitata. Now, with my other corals, I could get a decent enough idea if they were happy or not concerning flow and lighting for example, because their response was quite obvious and quick (Euphyllia and Rhodactis for example). However, this being my first SPS, I am not so sure, so I figured I'd make a small thread, hoping you guys and girls could help me out. As for my parameters, I measured these this morning and the frag is in my system for about a week; Ammonia: 0ppm Nitrite: 0ppm Nitrate: ~3ppm Phosphate test kit is on its way PH: 8.2 dKH: 11.3 Calcium: 475 Lighting: AI Prime HD on a somewhat customized AB+ schedule and on an acclimation period until February 23 Flow: return nozzle and Aqamai KPS Left side view right side view Close up (crop) where the polyps seem to extend the most I am not entirely sure yet about the placement, because I see a lot of shading/dark sides on the frag, which is a result of the shape as well. I am also wondering if I could accidentally burn it, having it so high up on the rocks, that's why I put the Prime on an acclimation period though. Last but not least, my apologies for the quality of the images. They were made with my phone, yet I am looking to buy a filter and magnifier soon, because I really enjoy taking pictures of the frags and how they're evolving/growing. What do you guys and girls think? Polyp extension alright, or no? Anything I could or should change, any feedback is much appreciated! Bonus question, is it normal to tweak that much in the early stages of having a reef aquarium? I just can't seem to let it be, instead, I am wondering if the light schedule is alright, what about the placement of the frags....Flow, wondering if the return nozzle is aimed alright and the KPS schedule is decent enough....Oooh, how about the turnover rate? 🤦‍♂️ (I am really enjoying it though, don't get me wrong, haha!)
  13. Hey gang, Been going through my equipment since I am gonna be starting a 5g Pico and found I still have a Koralia Nano 240. Would this be tooo much flow for a 5g Pico? Don't want to blow everything out of the tank when I set it up lol 😄
  14. LaraLouM

    Blowing Sand

    Hey everyone! I have a 6 week old Biocube 16G with the stock pump and a Jebao OW-10 Wavemaker. We have a 20-lb bag of the fine Fiji pink sand. No matter where I have positioned the powerhead the sand blows all over the rocks and coral. It creates drifts right now where there are low sand areas, and very high sand areas. I’m not sure how to position the powerhead to keep the sand from drifting and blowing everywhere.
  15. Hi. Newbie here. Freshwater for a long time, new to saltwater. I'm trying my best to read through before posting and although I have found what I think is my answer, I would like to hear some opinions/recommendations from experienced keepers before I stick my hands in my water prematurely. I have a BioCube32 and am 3 weeks in to cycle. I have two LFS that I am working with as I don't know what I'm doing so I don't know what to look out for in the way of mis-guidance, so I figure two LFS is better than one and I can take in more information that way. That being said...I had my water tested for the first time at 2 weeks in. I took samples to both LFS and then tested using my at home test after just to see how all the results came out. LFS No1 said no ammonia, no nitrite, no nitrate, I'm looking good, keep it up, if I wanna add CUC I can, but wait for fish for two more weeks. LFS No2 said ammonia is low, no nitrate, no nitrite, I'm looking good, keep it up, if I wanna add CUC I can, but wait for fish for two more weeks. So, since both LFS said I was safe to add CFC, I did. I have 10 hermit crabs, two nassarius snails, two trocus snails, two turbo snails, and 1 fighting conch. I came home, tested my water, same as LFS No2. So, I still have a few more weeks to wait before fish/coral will be introduced, but in the meantime I am wanting to go ahead and get my pumps added and my controller set up. I don't want to be sticking my hands in the water adjusting and readjusting my pumps, so before I do, I thought I would take this opportunity to introduce myself a bit and get some opinions about placement and then I can take it all into consideration. I am posting a front view and side view of my tank so you can see how much room I have on all sides of the rock. Currently, I am thinking/planning on placing a pump just to the left of the return and below, flow towards center of front glass and placing a second pump on the right side, about two inches above the lower intake slots, again, pointed toward the center front of the glass, with about a 6-7 second alternating pump cycle. (both pumps are Koralia Nano 425) Please feel free to give any pointers, let me know if you feel one or both of my LFS are steering me incorrectly. As I said, I'm trying to read and absorb as much as possible, but appreciate experienced opinions as well.
  16. Over the past several weeks my Duncan and Frogspawn coral don't seem to be happy. The duncan has a few heads open, but most are somewhat or completely retracted. The one's that are open don't have their fingers extended as far as they had been in past. The frogspawn hasn't been as full/extended either. All corals are being spot fed every other day (reefroids and Mysis for the duncan). I've checked my water parameters and everything is in the normal ranges as far as I can tell. Calcium - 400 Phosphate - 0.5 Nitrate - 0 Salinity - 1.024 My inhabitants are all acting normal. The other corals seem to be fine. It leads me to think I have a flow issue. The Duncan and Frogspawn were relatively normal before I added a large rock of zoa and had to change the flow some because the clove polyps looked like they were in a category 5 hurricane. I changed the direction of one of the powerheads (from front right to front left-middle) and the direction of the pump return (slightly lower on the front glass) and while the cloves are okay now, the others aren't. Both the frogspawn and duncan are getting flow, but it's less than before, so I thought that would be okay since low to moderate flow seems to be the common recommendation. First pic is what the Duncan looks like most of the time the past few weeks. Please forgive the nighttime shot, I forgot to get a current one with the day lights on. After it's under the LED's only, like in the picture, it will become full retracted until the lights come on in the morning. So now, I don't know where to put these stupid circulators to make everyone happy. The second pic is where they are now and roughly where flow is going. I have a Hydor 240 and Hydor 425 for powerheads. All three are bouncing off the front glass. The second and third pic were taken the day I moved the circulator. You can see the duncan and frogspawn looked normal at that point. The third pic is a thought I was having based on a lot of other tanks I've seen with similar placement. I know that placement varies depending on the aquascape and inhabitants. It's driving me nuts, and I could use some experienced reefers advice.
  17. Hello, please let me know if you are selling an MP-10 QD IN GOOD CONDITION ONLY!!! I am in Canada
  18. Hello, I had a circulation pump, which stopped working a few days ago. I'm thinking to buying a return pump, because it's more cheaper! For my aquarium with soft corals how many gallon per hour would be better? Maybe 130 gph? Bye
  19. Hi Peeps, Just want some advice really - I have 2 Koralia Nano powerheads for my 14 Gal reef, one @ 204 g/ph and the other @ 422 g/ph - I want the water to sway for better surface agitation and thinking of replacing the 204g/ph with a 845g/ph Koralia Evo, would this be ok for my tank? I'd be really grateful for any advice! Cheers!
  20. NanoRox

    pumps and flow

    Hi guys. Hoping you can provide me some direction. I have a 14g nano with a total of two pumps...the return pump cobalt mj900 and a Current USA 6000 eFlux wave kit (660 gph max). I have the wave maker set to pulse and I am getting some coral movement but when I watch videos of larger tanks there is a much more flow and back and forth motion. I have my eflux pump on the left side pointing across the tank (so water flow bounces back). My total turnover is a little over 40x/hour so that's great (assuming my flow is what is actually reported on the product boxes)...probably a little less though...my wave maker pump is not turned all the way up. Issue is I have some dead spots I just cant reach. Anyway, I am considering getting another pump so I can lower the flow of both but have alternate flow patterns across the tank. does that sound ok to you guys or just overkill?
  21. pacificdiver

    Syncra 1.5 for 20G?

    I'm setting up an Innovative Marine 20G (not the fusion). I'm going to run it with a 10G sump. Would a Sicce Syncra 1.5 be overkill, with about 220GPH at a 3ft head? I'm factoring in some loss at the two elbows for the dual return outlets into the tank, so I'm guessing each outlet into the tank would pass about 110 GPH. Does this setup sound reasonable? I'm also planning on running a small powerhead inside the tank, for battery backup and additional flow. Thanks in advance.
  22. Hello everyone! I currently have a fluval evo 5 set up with a jebao pp4 wavemaker. I do not have any issues when I run the wavemaker in terms of sand sand going everywhere or water splashing, but I just added a Black Ice Clown today (he is small, and I will eventually be moving him to a larger tank!) and I can't seem to tell if he is struggling or not with the flow. I have attached a video, but basically when the wave maker is on, he is in that corner and when I turn it off, he swims everywhere. I feel like he is struggling? I want to eventually add some soft corals in this tank and will need flow, but is this too much flow and if it is, any recommendations for a different powerhead? https://media.giphy.com/media/DF5eUeiX55oXe/giphy.gif SETTINGS: Jebao PP-4 Lowest power, W1, and two notches above midline. Stock EVO Pump, Its at full power so about 80gph is what it says.
  23. Lugmos12

    Nano Flow

    Alright, so I did some searched and didn't really found something that I found helpful per se. I'm just wondering what kind of setting I should use for a Jebao SW-2 wave maker on 13.5 gallon nano (EVO). I currently have softs corals and 1 SPS in it. I also found out that the stock powerhead is WEAK as f*ck so I'll probably have to upgrade that for more circulation.
  24. With great excitement I ordered the Hydra Aquatics Nano Vortex Flow Spinner to put in the Fluval Sea 5. No luck - it is a screw in and there aren't adapters to make it work. I decided to try it in my Fluval Sea XII. It fits. But does it spin?? NO. Not a millimeter. I have the Hydor spinner thing and it sticks out of the water and spins like a champ. This thing sticks out of the water just a bit and doesn't spin a bit. So, I'm not griping I just wanted to save others who own the aforementioned tanks time and money by posting this here as a searchable thread. Marine Depot was great and refunded my money and told me to toss it.
  25. thespinningsadhu

    Please Pass Judgment

    I discovered (by exploring the nooks and crannies of this hallowed forum) that we can embed Instagram videos and photos. So cool. I recorded a minute video of my frogspawn and the new duncan and would like for you to tell me what you think about the flow they get. I have the Fluval 13.5 with the stock output thing but I added a nano 200 gph with the rotating head so that there is a "pulse". I would like to see what you guys think about the flow and tell me if it's good. I have looked and I can't find any definitions to "high flow" or "medium flow" (that might be a great sticky for the beginner's forum if someone defined each of those with a video!). I don't want to move the corals much but I have seen the frogspawn way longer in my tank but he was in a stronger, laminar flow. To see the water "pulse" the duncan you'll have to watch for a minute. As a bonus there is a tiny, tiny sexy shrimp towards the end. Also, what is all the white schmootz on the inside glass? I can't figure it out. I think it may be sediment from the live sand? I don't have a mag float yet. I appreciate, as always, any judgment passed. *can't figure out how to embed Instagram video... it's not auto-doing like I read it should. @Christopher Marks **shit. I can't even figure out how to get the plain ol' link. I'm worthless. You may pelt me with live rock. *** hot diggity dog! I did it! You may continue to pelt me with live rock as long as it is fully cured and is beautiful with coralline and teeming with life.
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