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  1. Amphrites

    Amp's 20L Fortress of Fluff

    Well, it's a little late to start a build thread now seeing as the tank is mostly put together, if anything I suppose this will be more of a "polishing up" stocking and grow-out... thing... I do have some pictures I've taken of the process though and some little stories about how one thing or another got thrown together, but at this point I like the scape and stock enough I wanted to share it. Hope you enjoy! About 8 months ago I bumped into the opportunity to purchase a used Nuvo Atoll and AI prime light for $150 and I just couldn't say no. I'd been really wanting to get back into the hobby after moving off the big island of hawaii for ongoing health-reasons after a bout of myocarditis. It came in pretty scratched but I polished it up within an inch of the factory using the three-step Novus polish kit and some microfiber towels. Unfortunately I no longer really have any before and after pictures of the 6 or so hour process of getting everything nice a bright again, but I definitely learned I never want to deal with an acrylic tank again. I can't believe how easily these tanks scratch and how deeply at that... Next up was grabbing some rocks, I didn't want to deal with all the pests and unknowns which can hitchhike on live rock so I went with dry, instead figuring I would cycle the tank using ammonia, bottled Tim's, and some time. I couldn't really think of a fantastic scape Idea and had too many plans laid out, so I just ended up walking out of the LFS with a 30lb or so pile of Dry rock. I figured I could do some kind of really vertical scape to take advantage of the cylinder-shape of the tank, and I grabbed enough flat pieces that I felt like I could easily make a cove or island layout if I wanted to down-the-road. I replaced the stock pump with a Sicc nano 120 gph and bought a Sicc Voyager 240 for circulation alongside Brightwell N03 cubes, about "50 gallons worth" of Matrix and No3-out media, some chemi-pure blue nano satchels, phosguard, carbon, and egg-crate to hold it all in the AIO section. Underneath the overflow is filter-floss, carbon/phosguard, and then a chemipure satchel, to the right of it in the section which gets essentially no-flow is the NO3 seachem media, then in the large-middle section is half-a container of the brightwell NO3Out media and the Seachem Matrix. I also fashioned a little DIY lid out of Lowes scrap acrylic to keep evaporation down, though I really should have used some rods to keep it from warping, I still can't say I'm unhappy with the results. Bought a continuous power-supply UAC, which doubles as a backup for the nebulizer-compressor... And a Finnex 100W heater. Next-up the protoscaping while the tank cycled, I really wanted to try to maximize the amount of space I had for corals and livestock, while working with keeping a kind of full-tank-gyre action going. I was never really happy with the initial-concepts but couldn't quite figure out what I wanted to do, shy of keeping things bare-bottom, either. I managed to skip any huge algae or cyano breakouts and ended up with a 0-ammonia 10-nitrate tank within two moths, though I did get a few diatom blooms they always cleared up as fast as they came on. (That said I still get the occasional bloom after playing with my rockwork >_>) After two months wet, and about 1 month of feeding an empty tank, I decided to test the waters with a small clean-up crew, four nerite snails and a dwarf cerith. I never really took any pictures of them, but my wife and I both love watching the nerites zip all over the tank despite supposedly being "nocturnal", and have enjoyed trying to figure out where on earth the cerith is hiding during the day. Shortly thereafter we decided to grab a maxima from a local LFS, at the time it looked almost opal-white and was barely two or three inches across. I placed it towards the top of my rockwork and woke up the next morning to find that the little bugger had jumped into a hole and quite-firmly attached itself, prompting a "quick" re-working of the tank. Unfortunately working in the tank and scaping is much less pleasant than I had expected, certainly nowhere near as enjoyable as it used to be for me. Because of my various conditions I've lost most of my postural muscles over-time and have swinging electrolyte-imbalances which can cause shaking, spasms, and pain at just about any angle or weight. Needless to say working in the tank can at times be incredibly frustrating and physically-unpleasant, that said I still love aquascaping dearly and will probably end up with a planted bookshelf-tank or jar in the future. A shot of the clam and a Photo-bombing pair of nerites a few weeks-in. About a month later I decided it was time to start adding some corals when I chanced upon a bunch of indo euphyllia about to run out its' timer on Ebay, I picked up an unknown piece which I think is Baliensis, a bi-color frogspawn, and a yellow-ish hammer; plus a Florida-ricordea, chalice, and blasto-merletti colony for about $15 a piece after-shipping. Here's a grumpy shot of everyone after shipping, dipping, and dropping into the tank: And everyone a few days later: After an ongoing, impressively-successful, feeding regimen of sera-marin-granules (once a week) and 1/4 the recommended dose of RedSea AB I decided to order some plastic-coated neodimium magnets to replace the frag plugs, with the plan of epoxying and gluing their pairs into the rockwork, this way I can remove, swap, and frag the colonies without tearing apart my scape or worrying about much of anything. Unfortunately I think I went overkill on their strength as I can pretty much pick my rocks up by the corals XD Shot of the Maxima and Pink-green chalice after about a month settling-in and my dialing in the two-part dosing to keep alk and cal stable. The longer I had the scape up the more I realized the flow levels just weren't working out for the euphyllia or the chalice. The water coming off the voyager was getting deflected down directly onto the colonies and buffeting them, so I bought a timer to turn the powerhead off a few times a day as a temporary-solution until I felt ready to begin more re-scaping. After a week or so I decided breaking up the rock the Maxima was attached to was a great starting place as its' size and awkward shape left itself and the entire scape unsteady and prone to constantly coming apart while I tried to work with the coral. A few days ago my wife fell in love with this dark black-purple and rich-green anchor coral we found at a LFS, it reminds me of a truffula tree or some goofy fairytale-plant. Which leads me to the current iteration of the scape, overnight the new anchor coral decided to go cliff-diving and fell off its' plug entirely, to fish it out I pretty much had to tear apart the whole tank. With that said it did give me the opportunity and excuse I needed to completely-redesign my rockwork into something that would work better for my animals and for me. Four hours and a very sore back/core later and we have this beautiful little lagoon/cove which keeps the euphyllia sheltered from harsh flow and light, keeps the clam high-and center toward the Prime-puck, and the chalice in highish-flow and medium-ish light. The plan from here is to get a Lobo/Favia/Acan colony for the center and some bubblegum Digitata for the back-right of the wall (to be suspended by magnets) and decide on a small fish which won't harass the clam (No clown gobies, no damsels, I've heard clownfish can be mean...) maybe an assessor? I would love to try a yellow-stripe clingfish, but I know you're not supposed to keep pipefish with clams and am not sure if there's a similar rule. On top of that they're very difficult to keep and, while I would be willing to make it a little-feeding dish and shelter and go the extra-mile, even those who seem to do everything right tend to have their fish die within 3 years... Since there's no real information about their actual lifespan in the wild, I don't know how comfortable I am with the idea of potentially doing that to an animal when other species seem to adapt or even thrive in captivity by contrast. Anyway, that's pretty much the whole process of setting up this 13g nano, it has been a really long time since I've been able to play around with this hobby and honestly this tank has been jumping back into the deep-end for me. I'd love to hear any suggestions on livestock, but I want to keep it light and 10% every-other week or even monthly water-changes in the realm of possibility because of my condition (I test every three days to make sure nitrates are undetectable). Hope you enjoyed the read as much as I've loved browsing around the community and admiring all of your tanks and projects, hope you have a great day!
  2. Gravity

    Gravity’s Biocube 14

    Just getting started on my first reef tank. I have had freshwater tanks in the past but it has been a couple of years. I have been researching how to setup a reef tank for over a year now. Just didn’t have the time or money to set something up, until now. MY SETUP Tank: CoralLife Biocube 14 Heater: Cobalt Neotherm 50w Lighting: Stock Lighting - 24w Actinic - 24w 10K - 1x Blue LED Bar Filtration: Chamber 1: False Bottom Removed/Heater Chamber 2: InTank Media Basket (4/29/19) - Top: Filter Floss - Middle: BRS Carbon ROX0.8 and GFO (5/14/2019) Chamber 3: Stock Pump/Temperature/ AutoAqua Smart ATO Micro Circulation: Hydor Koralia Nano 240 Sand: 20 lbs Caribsea AragAlive Special Grade Rock: BRS Reef Saver Water: BRS 6 Stage RODI System Salt: Red Sea (Blue Bucket) Dosing: BRS Kalkwasser- 2g/gal Testing: Refractometer API Saltwater Masters HI736 Ultra Low Phosphorus HI775 Alkalinity Salifert Calcium Salifert Magnesium Fish: - ORA Gladiator Clownfish A. ocellaris (LA 4/18/2019) - Randalli Prawn Goby (AA 6/8/2019) “Timon” - Black Ice Clownfish [QT] “Columbus” A. ocellaris (BLC 10/12/2019) Invertebrates: - 1x Nassarius Snails (LA 4/18/2019) - 2x Cerith Snails (LA 4/18/2019) - 1x Trochus Snails (LA 4/18/2019) - Blue Legged Hermit (AA 6/8/2019) “Jack” - Blue Legged Hermit (AA 6/8/2019) - Red Banded Pistol Shrimp (BTR 6/15/2019) “Pumbaa” - 3x Nassarius Snails (BLC 10/12/2019) - 5x Cerith Snails (BLC 10/12/2019) Corals: Soft Fire and Ice Zoanthid (WWC 5/24/2019) Green Star Polyp (WWC 5/24/2019) Weeping Willow Toadstool (BLC 6/8/2019) Blue/Green/Yellow Zoanthid (AA 6/15/2019) Purple Monster Zoanthid (BLC 10/12/2019) LPS WWC Candy Striped Lord (5/24/2019) WWC Red Comet Lord (5/24/2019) WWC Blue Dragon Favities (5/24/2019) WWC Swamp Thing Favia (5/24/2019) Lavender Duncan (WWC 5/24/2019) Duncan (AA 6/15/2018) Pink/Purple Blasto (AA 6/15/2019) Purple & Pink Acan (BLC 10/12/2019) The Dearly Departed: - 1x Trochus Snail (LA 4/18/2019-5/5/2019) - WWC Grapevine Lord (5/24/2019-5/30/2019) - 1x Scarlet Hermit (AA 6/8/2019-6/21/2019) *Jack - Misbar Clownfish (BLC 6/8/2019-7/9/2019) *clownfish aggression - 1x Nassarius Snails (LA 4/18/2019-??) - 1x Nassarius Snails (BLC 10/12/2019-10/13/2019) *Jack Startup 3/16/2019 5/21/2019 9/25/2019 12/04/2019
  3. I'm pretty new to all of this. I had freshwater tanks for a while, many years ago, but didn't really understand the hobby and I didn't take the time to learn. I've always wanted a salt water tank, but stayed away because I was afraid of the the time and money commitment. A friend of mine owns a pet store. For years he's been trying to get me into the hobby because I'm always hanging out at his shop looking at his saltwater stuff. In December he finally got me. He gave me a Coralife 29 biocube. Oh boy, I had no idea what I was in for. It's been just under 6 months and it has been a hell of roller coaster, both good and bad. There's a lot to recap in just 6 months, but I'll start with where I am now. Then I'll recap everything I can recall going through/doing along the way to this point. Hopefully others can make use of all of the things that have and have not worked well for me. Attached is what my tank looks like as of April 8, 2018. Hardware: Coralife biocube 29 Stock hood/lighting: CF daylight, Actinic Blue, Blue LED bar x2 Stock Pump Upgraded ultra quiet hood fans Hydor 425 & 240 powerheads EHEIM Jager 150W heater Filtration: stock bioballs, carbon filter cartidge, Chemipure Elite Blue biobag 2 digital electric outlet timers to control lights Livestock: 2-Picaso Clowns 1-Yellow Wrasse 1-Purple goby firefish 1-Redstripe cleaner shrimp 1-Sand sifting starfish 6-crabs (3-red, 3-blue) 2-Nessarius snails 3-Turbo snails 2-Trochus snails 4-Astrea snails 1-Zebra snail 1-Bumblebee snail Corals: Duncan Frogspawn Hammer Kenya tree Zoanthids Blue star polyps Hollywood stunner
  4. If you read the title, I am not paraphrasing. I've had this duncan colony for roughly 2 years, and for more than 6 months, this coral has not opened or even come close to fully opening during this time span. The coral has been through two different tanks (a jbj 28g LED nano cube and then transferred to a jbj 45 gallon). I've tried changing light parameters, water parameters, positions, flow (all within large spans of time because quick changes can shock the coral) but I've had little results. The closest I've gotten to "open" was a slight protrusion from the skeleton, with a few tentacles showing up (Happened after a water change, so there is something in the water that is bothering it in my opinion.) I've also noticed a few aiptasia anemones appearing, so I'm wondering if one is wedged underneath the coral and is stinging it. The flesh of the coral still looks good, full neon green color. I'll post a photo of the colony a little later, and I'll list my current parameters (Currently high because I've been changing my dosing amounts in accordance with the duncan, only been doing this for roughly 3 weeks), as well as my tankmates, equipment, etc. Any help would be appreciated, and thanks for stopping by. Tankmates: 1 Bonded pair of Clownfish (Ocellaris & Black Photon) 1 Yellow tail damsel Various crabs & snails 1 large green/red trachyphillia 1 large elegance coral 2 small acan colonies 1 large kenya tree 5 blue mushroom colony 1 green/purple tip bubble anemone 1 medium frogspawn colony Equipment: 45 Gallon JBJ cube tank Radion XR15 (set to 60% max light, fast growth standard setting, primarily a blue spectrum) Aquamaxx HOB skimmer Dosing 2 Part B-ionic & Magnesium (currently changing dosing, but most recent schedule is 2ml of both calcium & alkalinity parts 3 times a day every 3 days) Basic ceramic rings, sponge, bio ball mechanical filtration. 2 - 264 gph pumps Parameters: Temperature: 78 Fahrenheit Salinity: 1.026 pH: 8.3 Calcium: 490 Alkalinity: 8.9 Magnesium: 1290 Nitrates: <.25 Phosphates: ~0 Ammonia: 0
  5. Hey there's, so my tank is about 3 months old. So very new and I have been staying on top of everything very well I think. Always making sure my water is good and levels are where they need to be. After reading a lot on here and other places I think I have a decent grasp on what needs to be done to keep the reefs I have healthy. But my Duncan who was thriving for the past 2 months has closed now for a while ( approximately 8 days now). Every other coral in my tank is thriving. So I changed spots from up on the rock with high flow to the bottom of the tank with lower/medium flow. It never opens up more than about 15% I'd say. I have been spot feeding it reef roids 2-3 times a week. My next thought would be to move it basically out of the light but I don't think that's the issue because it was doing amazing before for a while. Ammonia: 0 Nitrite: 0 Nitrate: 0 pH: 8.2ish Specific Gravity: 1.025 Alkalinity: between 8. 2 Calcium: 420ppm I'm doing about 25% water changes every week. This started when I had a massive bloom of copepods a couple weeks ago from the live rock. The first picture is right now and the second was just over a week ago.
  6. This is not a cute little 'all in one' aquarium, this is a Frankenstein, a diy monster that is going to offend some with its lack of interest in traditional reefing. This is a hands on, built not bought reef. Most of you won't respond or comment, it's expected, but you will look because you must, it's your nature. So here for your enjoyment (quiet, unresponsive enjoyment) is a reef tank that has undergone changes, that has evolved since the first post and is flourishing. Here is the beginning, if you can make it to the end you might find that you enjoy it instead of skipping to the end now and not understanding what you are looking at... ... So this is my current Pico... 2.5 gallons... (this is a crappy picture that I murdered even further with a photo editor...) 6/26 new tank fts 9/20 fts Fts 10/12 Fts 12/3 And things are starting to get cramped, when the Duncan is fully extended he really takes up a lot of space on his own, not that he cares. He's just like that, but is also my favorite coral in the tank. (he's also growing 2 (maybe 3) new heads. I also want to spread out the zoas, move the Kenya tree further away and put the xenias in their own area. The anthelia I mowed down already but know it will come back which is fine. So enough of the why, let's get to the point. The new tank is going to be 6.5 gallons. (it's gonna be huuuge). I'm currently working on the hood and stand. I will be using my sump and canister filter from the smaller tank still. It's a semi hex and it was a gift. The wood is rough cut cedar I had left from a gazebo I built for a customer. So here are a few things I'm planning to do differently this time, because I have been paying attention : Better flow! I mean way better, turbulent! alternating! flow flow flow! My entire scape will be mounted to a removable background to make it easier to add new corals, move corals, treat algae or pests (should they appear from thin air or awaken from hibernation). This will also allow me to dip the entire scape if the corals require it. I will be adding violet and turquoise leds to my lighting and switching out my 10k whites for neutral whites for a better blending of color and spectrum. Ok, so here are a few things I want to do but won't really know how they will work until I get it set up. I plan to have a set of return lines behind my Live rock scrap and a set up top facing down. These lines will be powered by separate pumps that will alternate via a wave maker. I'm hoping that will be much better for keeping detritus from settling. My canister filter will be a sort of closed loop set up. Two returns coming up from the bottom with heads/nozzles designed to sweep the bottom of the tank and the drain mounted in the bottom as well to (theoretically) catch any debris. I plan to hollow out two small pieces of rock to hide these nozzles. Will my green star polyps hate this constant flow? They will be spread out on the bottom of the tank. I still have a lot to do and decide on, like most things I will probably change my mind about a dozen times before it is all said and done. So this is the beginning, I post pictures as I go, maybe you will find it interesting or maybe you won't (boooo) if you have tried any of the things I've said please let me know how or if they worked out for you. Thanks (fingers crossed I don't just screw this up :p)
  7. spazizz

    Glow sticks

  8. Mike P

    Duncan

    My Duncan is getting larger but one of the heads isn’t growing as much and is not even open in this picture.
  9. Mike P

    Duncan

    Duncan frag
  10. So today is finally here, today I move from the original Pico to the new one. I figured I would start a new journal and detail it from now as well as go into more detail about the setup, what was built and what was bought. FTS 3/14/18 FTS 10/8/17 More to come... Set up consists of : -2 X 2.5 gallon aquariums (Total tank volume after rock and media displacement is roughly 3 gallons) -Roughly 5lbs of live rock -256gph pond pump with two outlets - one up top for surface tension, one lower for flow through middle of tank -Diy led, 4 blue, 6 royal blue, 4 warm white and 3 cool whites on 3 channels powered by laptop power supplies and dc motor dimmers. -LEDs are 3 w, 3v ordered off ebay, non branded -Tank was drilled with a dremel and Bulkheads are made from male and female pvc adapters (After tank was drilled and bulkheads were siliconed in I mixed and poured a two part epoxy resin about 1/4 inch thick to reinforce the glass and pcv) -Sump is a simple 2 chamber design, water flows through filter floss-chemipure-a box of MarinePure biofilter media-purigen-return pump -DIY ATO - Float switch connected to DC 12v relay which controls a 40gph pump in the reservoir -Temperature controller is a 5$ board bought off ebay, set temp and a fan will kick on when needed, it sits directly over the return side of the sump. Keeps the temperature between 79-81 Coral list: Hammer Candycane /trumpet Kenya tree Pink xenia Duncan GSP Clove polyp Purple gorgonian Orange rhodactis mushroom Green rhodactis mushroom yellow/green plate coral five kinds of palys - will update closeup pictures for help with identification eleven different types of zoas - will update closeup pictures for help with identification *when it comes to zoas and palys I have come to learn that most of them have made up names. My 'laser lemons' were actually purple people eaters... * Any questions about the setup, feel free to ask.
  11. I've been on the periphery of the hobby for over a year now. As soon as I stumbled into it I was hooked. The combination of science, art, and living pets inspired me deeply. I instantly went from not even knowing about the hobby to suddenly wanting to know everything! To make sure I didn't jump into anything to hastily I gave myself a solid year to seriously contemplate things and do my homework. I mean seriously doing my research, not just masturbating to coral porn. Build a 10g Nano Reef for JUST $275 Then a few months ago I saw a YouTube video from Marine Depot that was something like, "Build a Nano Reef for just $275." They built a bare-bones system with an IM Fusion 10 that would probably be fine for the easiest softies. I don't care for softies. I know everyone starts with them, but I'm just not even interested in bothering. My favorite corals are Montipora (digitata) and Acropora (vermiculata, tenuis). I like a lot of LPS too. Zoas are the closest thing to soft corals that I have any interest in, but even they would languish under their light. But this Marine Depot build got me thinking about getting off the fence. I loved the form factor of the Nuvo 10, since that would fit perfectly next to my desk. So let's do it right, and start by adding a zero to the budget. Build a 10g Nano Reef for JUST $2,750 I despise conspicuous consumption so please do not take me for some rich kid showing off. I'm a grown man who will make rational investments for personal edification. See that shit? I just used "edification" correctly in a sentence. Grown man! If I want to learn to keep SPS, I need to make the investment in keeping these critters alive and healthy. So forget all that piddly nonsense Marine Depot was trying to sling, here is the package I put together: Hardware Tank: IM Fusion Nano 10 Lighting: Kessil A80 (I was tempted by the Nanobox Lights popular here, but this needs to be a silent build!) Skimmer: IM Ghost Skimmer Return: Sicce Syncra Silent Main Powerheaad: Aqamai KPS Controller: Neptune Apex 2016 Hardware Regrets The IM SpinStream nozzle was hugely unnecessary in this tank with a powerhead. And ****ING LOUD! Hardware Extravagances I wrestled for a solid week on whether or not I should get the Apex 2016; or any of the much cheaper options. I think it is over-priced by about $300, and I hate getting bilked. I want to keep this all as stress-free as possible, so I ultimately decided it would be an insurance policy for the tank and a sleep aid for me. The ORP is probably the only thing on here I won't use. I'm comfortable with coding and was instantly coming up with my own schemes in the controller. I also really like the features in the upgraded EB832 powerbar. With such a small water volume I need to know the second something fails. I really want to keep this hobby as stress free as possible. First Month I'm primarily going to be documenting my experiences on my YouTube channel, but I'll use this thread for supplemental stuff. If you like what you see, please subscribe! I'm nearing 5,000 subs and want to hit that milestone! Let's find out if a newbie can just show up and pull off a SPS Nano Tank if he's done his homework! August 2017 Update: I finally got to add corals to the tank this month! There were a lot of ups and downs along the way, but I'm still engaged in the hobby! September 2017 Update: Despite having no fish in my fish tank, I had a very eventful September in reefing! This video also includes reviews for the Aqamai KPS powerhead (an affordable programmable powerhead) as well the Seneye Reef ammonia & pH monitor. October 2017 Update: Things are doing great in the tank this month! No coral deaths! I didn't even lose a single Zoa polyp! My parameters are all stabilizing nicely. In this month's video I complete my review for the Seneye Reef Monitor, and talk about how I supplement with Kalkwasser and Vodka. November Update It's happening! It's all finally coming together for me. I've got the water chemistry stabilized to the point that I think I can start adding Acros to the tank! January 2018: The tank has been going for 6 months, and has managed to keep fish alive for the last 2 of those! I'm now out of the woods yet though and continue to have some challenges keeping the water chemistry stable in this 10 Gallon Nano!
  12. Micro

    Duncan eating cleaner shrimp.

    No, this is not a shrimp eating my duncan situation. I came home from work today to find my duncan was eating the shrimp! I suppose I'm glad I saw it happen rather than fruitlessly trying to figure out where the shrimp had gone. I seriously doubt the duncan killed the little guy, but that coral won't be hungry anytime soon.
  13. Over the past several weeks my Duncan and Frogspawn coral don't seem to be happy. The duncan has a few heads open, but most are somewhat or completely retracted. The one's that are open don't have their fingers extended as far as they had been in past. The frogspawn hasn't been as full/extended either. All corals are being spot fed every other day (reefroids and Mysis for the duncan). I've checked my water parameters and everything is in the normal ranges as far as I can tell. Calcium - 400 Phosphate - 0.5 Nitrate - 0 Salinity - 1.024 My inhabitants are all acting normal. The other corals seem to be fine. It leads me to think I have a flow issue. The Duncan and Frogspawn were relatively normal before I added a large rock of zoa and had to change the flow some because the clove polyps looked like they were in a category 5 hurricane. I changed the direction of one of the powerheads (from front right to front left-middle) and the direction of the pump return (slightly lower on the front glass) and while the cloves are okay now, the others aren't. Both the frogspawn and duncan are getting flow, but it's less than before, so I thought that would be okay since low to moderate flow seems to be the common recommendation. First pic is what the Duncan looks like most of the time the past few weeks. Please forgive the nighttime shot, I forgot to get a current one with the day lights on. After it's under the LED's only, like in the picture, it will become full retracted until the lights come on in the morning. So now, I don't know where to put these stupid circulators to make everyone happy. The second pic is where they are now and roughly where flow is going. I have a Hydor 240 and Hydor 425 for powerheads. All three are bouncing off the front glass. The second and third pic were taken the day I moved the circulator. You can see the duncan and frogspawn looked normal at that point. The third pic is a thought I was having based on a lot of other tanks I've seen with similar placement. I know that placement varies depending on the aquascape and inhabitants. It's driving me nuts, and I could use some experienced reefers advice.
  14. Hoping someone might have an idea as to why the tentacles on my Duncan have suddenly started getting shorter over the last few days. Don’t think anything changed other than iÂ’ve been broadcast feeding pure mysis for months (of which the Duncan always got a couple bits), but the last week iÂ’ve been broadcast feeding marine cuisine feed (still mysis in it, but much less compared to other food types).  Image one shows how it looked when it was new, and itÂ’s looked the same for months just with many more heads then it had originally. Second image shows how it looks now.  thanks in advance!Â
  15. 10/8/17 - Tank has been moved into a new setup, link to new journal is here: New Tank So here is my little Pico reef. Including the AC70 filter mod the tank is right around 2.7 gallons. When I first started it this was my first attempt at saltwater and the tank was a plain glass aquarium and a cheap 6 X 3watt led fixture I bought off ebay. I had to remove the optics because you could clearly see the blue and white light in the water. I knew when I started this I didn't want a tank with a light hanging high above it or I would never be happy. The LEDs are currently about 2 1/2"s above the water level, it works, the tiny zoa Frag I first added has grown considerably from 10-12 heads to over 30. One of the two hammer corals I first added is still there, the other was eaten by a peppermint shrimp. It of course was the more attractive of the two. The remaining one was also torn up pretty good but is slowly coming back. I spent days reading forums from all over the net, anything to do with picos and decided that like a lot of others I wanted the tank to look like a piece of furniture instead of a glass box full of water. So after some measurements and several bad cuts I had the basic frame work finished. I had to empty the tank into a bucket and then paint the back of the glass and attach the wood to the framework. Everything survived in the bucket for about a two days while I worked. Here are some pictures of the original tank and some variations of the rockwork that have changed over the past couple months.
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