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Found 14 results

  1. Tangina20

    New vs aged live rock

    I know aged live rock is better than new but why? I have about 40 pounds of 3 year old rock and I’m looking to upgrade to a bigger tank and use all dry rock. Would I be missing out on a lot of benefits my aged rock has to offer?
  2. CaptainIchigo79

    Brand new 10 gallon nano tank

    This tank will be getting a clown or two very soon
  3. skaerber

    Hypothetical set up

    Hello all! I've been lurking on the forums for a few months, researching a future build for a first reef tank. That said I have a hypothetical build is like to bounce off of more experienced members. Equipment: Traditional rimmed 20 gallon long Diy stand (I already have these from an old planted tank) Eheim 100 watt heater Current USA orbit IC light Current USA 660 gph wave pumps x2 or Koralia equivalent wave pumps x2 Finnex hob refugium with fugeray and water pump RO buddie ATO Livestock: GSP Mushroom Algae barns pod starter pack Firefish x1 and Banggai cardinal x1 or Firefish x2 An appropriate clean up crew (still Researching) Dry rock This is the current list. I still have about 8-10 months of research to conduct, but I wanted to put this out there to get some feedback to help focus my research. Thank you!
  4. slooye

    SLOOYE'S NUVO 10 BUILD.

    SLOOYE'S 10 GALLON NUVO FUSION BUILD OVERVIEW: Decided to start up a small nano again after being away from the hobby for a bit. I was 16 at the time I set up my first tank (20 now), so iv'e been able to learn a substantial amount of information since then. Along with being able to learn from my mistakes. My budget has also increased so that will definitely help with setting up more of a sleek looking setup. The plan is to track my progress weekly (or whenever something worth talking about comes about.) The tank is currently in its cycling phase and is set up in my bedroom on my dresser. THE PLAN: The plan for this tank is to keep everything pretty simple. Since I only have 10 gallons to work with I want to work with keeping the bio load quite low. With that being said I want to keep only 2-3 fish stocked at max. Fish wise, I'd like to go with a designer clownfish. Thinking a snowflake most likely. (There is a facility that breeds designers about an hour from my house.) Also maybe a blenny eventually. I figured since there won't be many fish in the tank, I want the ones that are to really stand out. For corals, I'm thinking LPS at the moment. Want to keep this tank as bright colored as possible. EQUIPMENT: -Nuvo fusion 10 -Kessil A80 tuna blue -Kessil gooseneck -Sicce 0.5 (upgraded the stock return pump) -Nuvo spin stream nozzle -Tunze nano ATO -50w eheim jager -Chinese digital thermometer off amazon OTHER SPECS/INFO: -8 pounds of dry rock (From Bulk Reef Supply) -Bio active live sand -Using Dr. Tims ammonia and Instant Ocean Bio Spira to fishless cycle the tank. -Chemipure blue nano (added filtration) -Instant ocean reef crystals for mixing -Hydrometer (Need to order a refractometer) -API Saltwater Test Kit PROGRESS: Before Adding Water: 10-18-18 Water added: 10-21-18 Current: 10-27-18
  5. sapling

    Sapling's Nano

    Hey everyone so I've been on here a while but never documented my DIY 25g since I started it back around march last year, well I regret not documenting it, and lately I've been wanting to start up a smaller tank, so I thought, why not make a thread so I can record it so I can look back on it? I figure this way I can also learn from others and try to keep my questions in at least a lesser amount of threads. So its been official, I took the plunge on buying 14 ibs of BRS reef saver along with some hanna reagent about an hour ago. I made my tank DIY last time, and although I am still interested in doing that since I can tailor it to my needs, Im not the best craftsman wise. So I am currently looking into a couple tanks before I pull the trigger later tonight. it seems I have a couple options Im most interested in; the waterbox 7g or 10g IM nuvo fusion 10 I am a bit torn between the nuvo 10g or waterbox 10g. the fact they are plug and play is a nice bonus, compared to when I did my DIY, as doing a false wall is a bit frustrating when attempting not to shatter acrylic from drilling or scoring. the two are essentially the same price, although the IM nuvo comes with the lid, so I am leaning towards that. How does everyone who has one of these feel about the back chambers? I am currently debating between a Bare bottom tank or at least shallow sand. I never tried a Bare bottom tank and I think I'd really enjoy the look and cleanliness of it since Im already bad at vacuuming my sand in my tank. what do you guys suggest? my planned inhabitant will be either my Rainford's Goby or my Tail Spot Blenny from my 25g. Lately I've seen some random aggression from the blenny towards the Rainford, and Im planning to take one of them out, leaning towards the Rainford. I feel conflicted about putting the rainford in the 10g if its a Bare bottom, since he hasnt taken prepared food (live BBS, frozen, pellet) yet but picks at rocks and sifts the sand. I'm not sure if its refusal of prepared food or rather him being so passive, my other fish take it from him before he has a chance to eat? Besides hopefully the goby once cycled, I do plan to stock with coral, although Im not sure which yet, I know I have a few frags of zoas in my 25 without a home yet, but I also do really like the look of euphillia, and ricordeas. maybe euphillia on the top with zoas and rics mid to low? the lighting will be my finnex 12" Planted+ until I am sure about which Light i want, I am currently thinking of a par LED bulb to hang over, but I might get another nanobox light, just depends what I end up doing, and feels better to me. For my Filtration, I feel like I dont have too much space to play with like I did in the 25g. what would you guys suggest here? I imagine a skimmer would be useful for phosphates, plus a small bio pellet reactor for nitrates, but I am interested to see what others would say instead. maybe purigen and phosguard? not sure yet, but plenty of time to think. Maybe just cut a portion of my chaeto and carry it over, with activated carbon. ~~ anyways Im sure that might be TLDR but thanks everyone who read, I love seeing other peoples journals for reference, and learning from their experiences with their tanks, I'm hoping mine can help someone elses once it matures.
  6. Hello NR community, I am reaching the end of my dry-rock cycle and starting to put thought on how I introduce livestock into my tank. My goal is a low-maintenance reef tank as far as algae and other unwanted growth. I have a 16gallon biocube. As my rock is not fully mature yet, how have you all been successful introducing livestock into your tanks that maintained biological filtration, and not to overwhelm the system. I know fish will introduce the most consistent ammonia source, but also want to consider a slower approach to introduce livestock. I am thinking 1-2 snails that can find some glass algae that has been accumulating on my tank. My gut is telling me I will end up adding a snail, or snail + hermit to get something live started. At the same time, there is not too much algae growth, so considering a hermit crab that I can spot feed more easily. - Fish first? - Snails first? - Hermits first ? - Spot feeding pellets? Any thoughts?
  7. RyanShore

    Fast Rock ?

    I am starting out my first nano "reef" and want to know what type of rock would be ideal for a quicker setup. Obviously the tank still needs to cycle; however, I would like a rock that will not need to be cured for a long time. I don't plan on putting coral into the tank initially, FOWLR to begin. Having the rock be dry would be fine by me. The options I have seen are the following: Reef saver rock from BRS, Life rock from CaribSea, and Walt Smith Pukani Live Rock - Cured / Cleaned from Premium aquatics. I also was looking at basic caribsea base rock as an option. I just want to be able to set up the tank as fast and hassle free as possible. With the live sand helping a lot in getting bacteria to begin in the tank. I also will use bio spira to help kickstart the tank as well. So far I will be setting it up in a 20 gallon hex tank. Using ocean direct live sand, a hob filter I have laying around (rated for 40g), and some cheap pumps. I plan on stocking with: 2 clowns, a clown goby, and a firefish (and some snails and hermits)
  8. My tank is a 16 G cube, and I want to avoid having a giant pile of rock right in the middle of the cube, so the fish will be behind the rockwork 50% of the time. Is it advisable to create a rock wall, by cutting each dry rock piece into two halves and cementing several halves together, each piece being stacked on the top of the other? The wall would then be made to lean against the back glass of the tank. The weight would be supported by the bottom of the tank though. I'm afraid the tiny cavity wall between the back glass and the rock wall might get dirty over time and become a source of nitrates. My idea would be to achieve something looking like the image below, using CaribSea Life Rock. Obviously my tank is much smaller than the one in the image.
  9. Hallo forum! Finally got the Fluval Evo 13.5 and I'm trying to make a plan for getting it up and cycling while I'm waiting to be able to afford, you know, sand, rocks, a powerhead, salt, RO/DI unit, ha ha ha (crying) After consideration I want to go with dry sand and dry pukani rock rather than start with live, and then I get a bit confused with overthinking. Should I cure the pukani before adding it to the tank and then cycling the tank? Or should I take advantage of the dead matter in the pukani to help me cycle the tank? I've read that you shouldn't cure rock in the DT? I AM leaning towards curing the rock and then adding it to the tank to then cycle the tank, just so that I can be thorough and make sure everything is clean and stable from the ground up - I don't mind waiting around so much because saving money for each little bit is going to be a slow process for me, plus I like to make sure I have everything laid out from scratch. That said, I don't want to do everything twice if I don't have to. I'm not THAT patient. Another point that I'm not sure about is this: when I've cycled FW tanks in the past I've always used done so by dosing 4ppm 'pure' ammonia and testing from there. It's taken some time but it's always given me a good cycle and a stable BB culture at the end of it. Reading about dry rock cycling online, I've only really seen the 'dead shrimp' method, which, no. I just wanted to find out if I can cycle a dry sand/dry rock tank with the pukani by dosing with bottled bacteria and then feeding with 'pure' ammonia, and if so, what ppm would be needed. I've seen 4ppm and 2ppm recommended? I like to get a large culture of BB going, esp because I think I might be on the heavy side of stocked at the end of it (I'll be using a mini fuge with chaeto and copepods and won't be using a protein skimmer so) I'd love to hear your input, especially from anyone who's done the above before, and if anyone can let me know on curing the pukani before and out of the tank or in the tank while it cycles I'd really appreciate it Thanks for your help nano forum!
  10. I started a Biocube 29g in March and almost as soon as I had it setup I wanted something a little bigger. We've all been there I decided that a 40 breeder would be a good size in an apartment, and got to work getting the pieces together. I've gotten everything ready now except the tank itself ! Weighing a few final local options. I'm not in a rush so I want to do things right. I started cycling some old live rock that had been sitting dry in the heat for 6+ months. I placed it in a tub with 1.025 saltwater, a cobalt accutherm 250w, and maxijet 400. Dosed to ~10ppm ammonia (Trying it high again after my first tank cycle went so well). I probably should have washed the rock off but I'll do a 100% water transfer before putting it into the tank later on. Currently it has been cycling for 2 weeks. I tested a very small nitrite presence 2 days ago and did a 30% water change with 5g from my Biocube. Nitrites are now at .75 and rising. Once the ammonia is completely processed I'll do the 100% and redose a small amount until I have the tank I want. edit: tested this morning 10/08/17: What do the nitrates look like? I am partially colorblind and the purples are hard for me.
  11. I picked up two bins of dry, old live rock that I want to start prepping for the future. I already have a batch of rock cycled for the 40g breeder I am building now. But I imagine I will want to upgrade even bigger in a year or so. I'd like to do everything right so I'm taking my plan to the forums before enacting it. 1st Stage - Cleaning 2nd - Phosphate Removal 3rd - Cycling 4th - Coralline Growth 1st: Cleaning will involve washing the rock off and scrubbing any old life that I can find. Bleach or vinegar solutions seem to be a common choice. 2nd: I am already using Lanthanum Chloride to remove phosphates on my cycled rock, I believe I will use this to remove it from this new batch. So far it has been working well. And it seems to be the most efficient method, combined with large water changes. 3rd: I prefer to do Cycling fishless, so I will be using a janitor's solution to provide ammonia to the bacteria. I want to get it heavily seeded and will dose ammonia multiple times to build up the bacteria 4th: Coralline Growth, what may be the hardest stage. If I could do everything I want, I would culture some coralline in its own aquarium first in order to get a clean sample. Probably won't have the resources to do that and will just scrape some from one of my tanks. I will also be adding a CUC to manage other algae during this ~1year process of growing out the coralline. The algae starter and CUC will be the first possible entrances of pests and something I would like to work on. Did I mess any secret techniques or is this a pretty solid plan?
  12. So I have a Fluval 13.5 gallon tank running since August of this year. I have this scape but ended up not holding due to it not being glued. So I had to take out at least 70% of LR. In my sump, has 2 bags of Matrix which has been there since the set-up. Today my dry rock arrived and I did a scape and put them on the tank where the 30% of LR was. The plan is to totally get rid of the old rock and start with the new one. Now the question is, will it be safe for my 5 fishes and corals if I take the live rock put the new dry scape in there at the same time? I have Matrix and live sand. Will it be okay? Original Scape No Scape New Scape
  13. JBolt

    Starting a new 24g.

    Hello, fello reefers I am looking for some advise from some experienced reef keepers. So I am starting my first as tank and I haunt slacked in my research but the problem is conflicting arguments and different variables so I figured I ask about my particular sinario. I aquasscaped about 28 to 30 lbs of dry rock, got my temp right, salinity, and good flow going, I let the tank run for 3 days and just added a 3 lb price of live rock and plan on adding sand from an established tank to help ad a variety of good bacteria. My main question is that the rock was said to have been curing for a year, the rock went strait into the tank only being out of water for 5 min. So I guessing minimal die off. I want great biodiversity and am not in a hurry at all I want a stable long term system. So instead of asking should I do "this or "That" I'll ask what should be my next step be? All levels are still zero but it has only been 10 hours since the live rock went in. Thank you in advance.
  14. GenericReefer

    Reef Epoxy

    I've been going on a spree to get answers to all my questions, but this is something that I haven't regarded as much. My rockwork isn't that stable, and if left by itself, will definitely collapse. I am looking for a durable, low-cost, and non-colored epoxy. Some people have also reported a smell and water becoming cloudy because of the epoxy, so what is up with that? I am going to finish the rockwork out of water, so whether or not epoxy can be used in the water will not really matter. Thanks!
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