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Found 46 results

  1. This is not a cute little 'all in one' aquarium, this is a Frankenstein, a diy monster that is going to offend some with its lack of interest in traditional reefing. This is a hands on, built not bought reef. Most of you won't respond or comment, it's expected, but you will look because you must, it's your nature. So here for your enjoyment (quiet, unresponsive enjoyment) is a reef tank that has undergone changes, that has evolved since the first post and is flourishing. Here is the beginning, if you can make it to the end you might find that you enjoy it instead of skipping to the end now and not understanding what you are looking at... ... So this is my current Pico... 2.5 gallons... (this is a crappy picture that I murdered even further with a photo editor...) 6/26 new tank fts 9/20 fts Fts 10/12 Fts 12/3 And things are starting to get cramped, when the Duncan is fully extended he really takes up a lot of space on his own, not that he cares. He's just like that, but is also my favorite coral in the tank. (he's also growing 2 (maybe 3) new heads. I also want to spread out the zoas, move the Kenya tree further away and put the xenias in their own area. The anthelia I mowed down already but know it will come back which is fine. So enough of the why, let's get to the point. The new tank is going to be 6.5 gallons. (it's gonna be huuuge). I'm currently working on the hood and stand. I will be using my sump and canister filter from the smaller tank still. It's a semi hex and it was a gift. The wood is rough cut cedar I had left from a gazebo I built for a customer. So here are a few things I'm planning to do differently this time, because I have been paying attention : Better flow! I mean way better, turbulent! alternating! flow flow flow! My entire scape will be mounted to a removable background to make it easier to add new corals, move corals, treat algae or pests (should they appear from thin air or awaken from hibernation). This will also allow me to dip the entire scape if the corals require it. I will be adding violet and turquoise leds to my lighting and switching out my 10k whites for neutral whites for a better blending of color and spectrum. Ok, so here are a few things I want to do but won't really know how they will work until I get it set up. I plan to have a set of return lines behind my Live rock scrap and a set up top facing down. These lines will be powered by separate pumps that will alternate via a wave maker. I'm hoping that will be much better for keeping detritus from settling. My canister filter will be a sort of closed loop set up. Two returns coming up from the bottom with heads/nozzles designed to sweep the bottom of the tank and the drain mounted in the bottom as well to (theoretically) catch any debris. I plan to hollow out two small pieces of rock to hide these nozzles. Will my green star polyps hate this constant flow? They will be spread out on the bottom of the tank. I still have a lot to do and decide on, like most things I will probably change my mind about a dozen times before it is all said and done. So this is the beginning, I post pictures as I go, maybe you will find it interesting or maybe you won't (boooo) if you have tried any of the things I've said please let me know how or if they worked out for you. Thanks (fingers crossed I don't just screw this up :p)
  2. Hi, The skimmer is noisy, hard to maintain (Fluval PS2) and eats coral's food. I found a better solution - (UAS) Upflow Algae Scrubber. Your water will be crystal clear and maintenance is very easy. You will need (upd. you don't need an airpump in AIO chamber area). Innovative Marine AUQA Gadget Chaetomax 2-in-1 9W Refugium LED 1$ basked from the dollar store (just find any basket that will fit) Plastic mesh screen (I rub it on asphalt to make it rough) Airpump (I think is not necessary, but I use one for "Micro and nano bubble tank treatment" and for this scrubber too). I use Fluval Q2 (stay away from noisy Q1). Airline tubing with many holes (I drill with 1/16 drill). Always use Check Valve and stay away from "Hagen Elite Check Valve". Airline Gate Valve for air control One Suction Cups (I use "Marina Black Thermometer Suction Cups") I attach the mesh screen on each side of the basket (using tie wraps, but you can use reef safe glue). Use a drill to make the hole in the airline tubing - if not, all the air will out from the biggest holes: Scrubber test: I put it in the middle chamber: Result: UAS in working (at night when light off): Future upgrades: I need to install this for better airline tubing: Good luck!
  3. Established: October 2017 Disclaimer: It's a long one! (that's what she said?) Hello everyone! My name is André, and I'm from the Azores (a somewhat hidden piece of paradise). This is my second saltwater tank, but the first built on actual experience and purpose. The goal of this tank (yet to be achieved) was to house a small species of Mantis Shrimp. Sadly, Capitan Hook died prematurely during a shipping misstep. Sad times. Anyway, the tank is now an actual reef, and the mantis shrimp idea is on hold. One main idea with this tank (coming from a 50g) was to reduce the equipment and maintenance needed and increase the overall enjoyment of the actual tank. In my case because I collect my own NSW that meant that reducing the total volume of the tank would have a pretty significant impact on the time put into my weekly routine. Also, I wanted it to have a clean, minimalistic look and feel. Especially in a small tank that meant hiding the equipment, so an AIO became an obvious solution. Finally, it had to be cheap. Unhappy wife would mean soon-to-be-dismantled tank xD. Bought some glass, aquarium safe silicone and some acrylic sheets. As I had access to a laser cutter from a jewelry store, all the pieces were custom made to fit the tank. That being said, on to the original setup: Equipment Tank: DIY 10g AIO Lighting: Chinese Par 38 LED Bulb Circulation: Sicce Syncra Silent 1.5 Filtration: Filter floss, sponge and purigen Temp. Control: Small 50w heater ATO: Tunze Nano Osmolator Skimmer: Air stone diy water bottle skimmer Corals Utterchaos Zoas Scrambled egg Zoas Gorilla nipples Zoas Playboybunny Zoas Sunny D Zoas Rastas Zoas Orange Bam Bams Zoas Ring of Fire Zoas Blue Hornet Zoas Purple Bee Zoas Keds Reds Zoas Red Hornet Zoas Green Mushroom ————————–————————————— Below, a visual time-line of some of the phases the tank went through until reaching its current state: October 2017 It's safer than it looks... Back of the AIO Custom media basket Finished!! Acrilic top helped cut down evaporation and paved the way for the removal of the ATO. November / December 2017 Used some Frieda rock to seed new one, but it starts getting some bad air algae. Had no snails to counter it at the time. Ricordea Florida January - June 2018 - New rock structure made using reef glue added for a hair algae free start. This structure (or rather, part of it) would make it to present day! One of the "legs" broke and the structure had to be adapted. Tailspot Blenny, who sadly died a few days after coming in. Aiptasia eating monster! Tank born little trochus snail. New additions! Couple clownfish, torch, montipora, digitata and hydnophora corals. Top view Side view Simple "refugium" with some chaeto strands added to the back of the tank. July 2018 - changes to lighting and circulation AI Prime HD added! Spin Stream arrived! Unexpected hitchhiker... After light and flow adjustments August 18 Zoa island Current Equipment Tank: DIY 10g AIO Lighting: Ai Prime HD Circulation: Sicce Syncra Silent 1.5 + IM Spin Stream Filtration: Filter floss, sponge and purigen + Tunze 9001 Temp. Control: Small 50w heater Skimmer: Tunze 9001 Current stock - Occelaris Clownfish x 2 - Trochus Snails x 4 - Zoas (same as above) - Blue, orange and green ricordeas - Green and blue mushrooms - Torch Euphyllia - Red Montipora - Pink Digitata - Green Hydnophora - Purple and green Clavularia After a lot of changes and my fair share of challenges, I finally feel like it's on the right track. Feel free to offer insight or ask questions. Abraço, ffoott
  4. teatimecrumpet

    Automatic Top-off help

    Hi, I'm new to NR and want to start off by saying thank you and looking forward to helping where I can and soaking up all the available knowledge! I'm looking to build an ATO using a 12VDC relay, a float switch, and an extension cord for an air pump to a sealed reservoir. I just have a couple of questions before I buy the parts on ebay. I noticed that the relays I keep finding show 2 of the 8 pins offset one on each side. The ones I've seen in the guides and from kingofdiy on youtube show them aligned in perfect squares. Am I missing something or is it the same in just a different layout https://www.ebay.com/itm/12VDC-Coil-Power-Relay-10A-DPDT-LY2NJ-HH62P-L-JQX-13F-2Z-with-PTF08A-Socket-Base/372497925221?hash=item56ba9b4465:m:m6tI55ExbILUQP5twtNrSdg:rk:3:pf:0 Which is better air pump or water pump? I chose an air pump over a pump because I'd rather an air pump run dry and break than an overflowing tank (though I'm thinking I'm going to put a float switch in reverse in the reservoir maybe or in reverse at the top of the tank). Is there a limit to what I plug into the modified extension cord in terms of wattage? I noticed the guides mention getting DC vs AC equipment when the relay is going directly into the equipment but since this is going into the extension cord do I even have to worry about that? Thank you all!
  5. Hey Nano-Reef! I've decided that I'd like to take a shot at a cold water reef, and after digging in the old equipment a little, I realized I have most of the parts lying around. Chillers are expensive, and I love to make things, so decided to take an old office water chiller and turn it into an aquarium safe water chiller. I had some titanium tubes from another project, and they were pretty cheap, 3$ each from ebay. They're a little short and a little thin, 1/4 OD and only 12 in long. Most in tank coil chillers use a Titanium coil where the cooling end filled with gas is directly in the tank, But I don't have the tools (or Licences), to work with the whole soldering and welding/ weird refrigeration gasses it would require, Instead, I'm using the cold water from the chiller and pumping it through the titanium tubes I've bent. The benefit from this so that I can use multiple 1/4 tubes in order to move heat in a smaller area, as well as having the force from the pump have a little more room than just 1/2 to 1/4, now it'll be 1/2 to two or three 1/4s at 80 GPH, as well as being able to disassemble and reconfigure everything, or even add more coils alter on. The main tank itself will be a 2.5 gallon tank with a tiny cheap HOB filter and Macroalage until I can acquire some cold water organisms like strawberry anemones. I'm not sure of the lighting yet, But I think I might do DIY LED strip. It's cold water, so the only organisms for a while will be low light. Cold water usually needs more water changes than warm, from what I've read, so the size may be a little easier to keep up with. I may upgrade to a 7.5 Gallon rimless i've been saving for something nice. Opinions are always welcome and always appreciated, I'm new to cold water and any help in the form of advice or constructive criticism is awesome. Here's the mount for the Titanium tubes in CAD to be 3d printed: (if anyone wants the STL file em lemme know)
  6. I have a fluval evo 13 that is almost full of corals, some zoas are already reproduce a lot and i need somewhere to place them. I wanna buy bigger tank but not right now because i have a lot of expenses. So i bought 20 gallon long from petco $1 per gallon. I was thinking about drilling the tank and have sump, but then i don't want to make this frag tank simple. I read about HOB filter, so i bought Aquaclear 50, but then it was too small, so i returned it and get 110 for replacement. Attached is the tank and the HOB filter. With aquaclear 110 i will have space to make it as refugium.
  7. Aquademiksreef

    Aquademiksreef

    Nano Reef: personalizado (feito em casa) 60x30x30 cm Luminária: Current USA Orbit Marine Led Termostato: Ocean Tech 50w Skimmer: Bubble Magus QQ Bomba de Recalque: SB 1000lh Bomba de circulação: Continua...
  8. This is a 60litre tank purpose built DIY for use with the triton method. I will run this aquarium journal I will log weekly my successes and failures and water parameters. With weekly photos of this tank as it matures. The tank will be a mixed reef with ULM in mind.
  9. Well everyone, It's time I finally get some jellyfish going, I've gotten some polyps of cold water moon jellyfish and have begun setting up a polyp culture. The polyps are acclimating at the moment and we'll see how this goes. I'm still figuring out posting images, so bear with me. This thread will follow any progress I make and tips or tricks for these gelatinous critters are much appreciated.
  10. Hello, I am finally starting up another 10 gallon nano-reef after a couple of years out of the hobby. I am building my own LED system and was hoping to get a couple of knowledgeable/experienced forum members to check off on my design. Specifically, I think my drivers and power supply should be sufficient to handle the load of the LEDs in this configuration, but I would be more comfortable getting another opinion. My hope is that this system can support a bubble tip anemone and SPS corals. Thank you for any help you can offer. There are three "strings" of LEDs, each one controllable by a PWM-dimmable driver. The three drivers are then powered by a single power supply and controlled by an Arduino Uno. Below are links to the components followed a screenshot of the schematic. LEDs Royal blue, blue, and red Violet Neutral Whites Driver LDD-L Series Mean Well Step-Down Mode CC DC-DC LED Drivers ("Wires", 700 mA, 9-36 Vin, 2-32 Vout) Power Supply LRS-150-24 Mean Well LRS Series Enclosed Style Switching Power Supply (24 Vout, 150 W)
  11. So today is finally here, today I move from the original Pico to the new one. I figured I would start a new journal and detail it from now as well as go into more detail about the setup, what was built and what was bought. FTS 3/14/18 FTS 10/8/17 More to come... Set up consists of : -2 X 2.5 gallon aquariums (Total tank volume after rock and media displacement is roughly 3 gallons) -Roughly 5lbs of live rock -256gph pond pump with two outlets - one up top for surface tension, one lower for flow through middle of tank -Diy led, 4 blue, 6 royal blue, 4 warm white and 3 cool whites on 3 channels powered by laptop power supplies and dc motor dimmers. -LEDs are 3 w, 3v ordered off ebay, non branded -Tank was drilled with a dremel and Bulkheads are made from male and female pvc adapters (After tank was drilled and bulkheads were siliconed in I mixed and poured a two part epoxy resin about 1/4 inch thick to reinforce the glass and pcv) -Sump is a simple 2 chamber design, water flows through filter floss-chemipure-a box of MarinePure biofilter media-purigen-return pump -DIY ATO - Float switch connected to DC 12v relay which controls a 40gph pump in the reservoir -Temperature controller is a 5$ board bought off ebay, set temp and a fan will kick on when needed, it sits directly over the return side of the sump. Keeps the temperature between 79-81 Coral list: Hammer Candycane /trumpet Kenya tree Pink xenia Duncan GSP Clove polyp Purple gorgonian Orange rhodactis mushroom Green rhodactis mushroom yellow/green plate coral five kinds of palys - will update closeup pictures for help with identification eleven different types of zoas - will update closeup pictures for help with identification *when it comes to zoas and palys I have come to learn that most of them have made up names. My 'laser lemons' were actually purple people eaters... * Any questions about the setup, feel free to ask.
  12. I have taken down my tank and am looking to sell my DIY led/t5 hybrid light. This is a housing from a Coralife 4x 24" T5 lunar fixture. I removed 2 of the T5s, as well as the lunar LEDs, and mounted a 4 channel Nanobox Duo M inside of it. So total it has 2 24" T5s in the front and back each with individual reflectors, and a Nanobox Duo M (4 channels, moonlight channel, & lime LEDs) mounted in the middle. 4 channel Bluefish controlled with the t5s on a separate outlet. I'll also include the old nanobox duo gooseneck in case you want to restore it. The nanobox fan is burnt out. It is an easy fix, but works fine without it since the t5 has a fan and the housing is looser around the nanobox than the original housing. It also needs a cover for the nanobox fan hole I cut into the top. It also could use a better plexiglass protector, I couldn't find a single piece big enough. With a little TLC this could be a really clean fixture, but it's currently a bit rough around the edges. That being said, this thing works great for growing corals and has a great mix of flashy led and natural fluorescent spread. I really like the colors, and look of this light. I am selling because I have taken down the tank, sold all my stuff, and am moving across the globe. Looking to get $200.00 USD shipped.
  13. GraniteReefer

    Hugo Stiglitz the Mantis Shrimp

    Recently I purchased some beautiful rocks off KP Aquatics(epic Gorgonians and rocks) and had mentioned that I hoped a mantis shrimp would hitchhike its way to the granite state. Sure enough within minutes of unpacking I noticed Hugo Stiglitz slipping through the rocks being a creature of the black lagoon. Having not fully thought about the rocks then housing a villanous murderer I realized the rocks he resided in where permanently his and he would need his own tank. He was already in an IM10 I was using to QT the rocks and cycle them but the depth between the panes allows him too much hiding space for decent viewing. So I bought the Mr.Aqua serene 3 gallon tank. The tank is seriously my favorite tank ever! At 17.7"x 5.5" x 7.1" the dimensions on this thing are a dream! I want a nice clean look so I am going with a toothless overflow, tempted to call it a coast to coast but is that only on tanks that crest over the length of the aquarium not the width? Always wanted a white back wall but never found one for sale so I will be fulfilling that dream too. In this thread I plan on chronicling the build process of the tank and also Hugo, Who I hope turns out to be half as cool as another murderous sea wench nanoreef knew so well. It's my first time working acrylic and designing my own AIO insert, and also my first predator tank. Also would love to have some comments that could even make the guys in lawns lounge blush so speak freely. And I will copy one of the other posters who make such nice first posts showcasing equipment and such, at the Chris Marks guy that yells at me for being political can we maybe get a template so I don't have to spend time figuring it out? I have included a picture of a cardboard mockup of my simple plan.
  14. Marine Tank Journey

    Marine Tank Journey

    Hi fellow reef keepers, My name is Slade and I am a reef keeper here in South Africa. Please can I ask you all for your support in my journey by subscribing to my YouTube channel linked below? The content and videos will get better I promise! there are major plans in the works and I would like to share all of it with the world. We will see you there! https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCNbTEaeFCsoxCvdSJU9CMOQ?view_as=subscriber
  15. Started this tank on March 30, 2017 with stock pump and filter sock, koralia nano from previous tank, and 5 lb of LR, and about 8.5 gallons of saltwater to start. The tank is almost a year old now and some upgrades have happened. (will take some better pics with the camera later) Equipment -IM Ti ATO (going to tunze nano ato) -Ran a kessil a80 for 11 months before going to a radion (diffusion kit/rm -Jbj 1/15 hp Chiller with 1.0 return -Sicce 0.5 return - inTank Media rack with 2 filer floss on top, seachem matrix, bottom two filter flosses -inTank universal media skimmer -was running a IM desktop Media Reactor with carbon but since the RMS mount is fairly big i had to remove the reactor (don't mind that because its freaking study!) So in turn I have a Fudge basket that I might run with more matrix in it if the tunze 9001 doesnt work out (coming) -MP10 wQD -inTank Frag rock (2) - 5 lb LR -3 lb Sand (going to take down to less lb's till its barley covered probably -Cobalt Aquatics Neotherm 100w heater - 6.5 chemipure Live Stock: - Rainbow Acans - Duncans - Walking Aussie Duncan - Purple Tipped Frogspawn - Young Maxima Clam - Rock anemone -3 nassarius snails -3 Trochus Snail -3 Aussie young scolymia/s? LOL -Side plant is one of 3 succulents I got at a baby shower and decided to try to grow it under the XR-15 instead of my bedroom window lol, so if they switch out ever that why. Let me know if you have any thoughts on the tank! Plan on upgrading to a Lagoon 25 at some point this year I hope!
  16. Hi all, I'm disassembling my custom LED fixture and selling the 48W LED super spectrum pucks. I worked with Yann to develop this specific flavor after significant testing. These are PCBs with premium LEDs intended for a DIY assembly. Yann sells my mix here: https://blueacro.com/acrostar/ for ~$85 shipped. These are custom chips with what I consider to be the absolute best spectrum for coral growth, fluorescence, and color mixing. Channel 1: 4x Royal Blue (450nm), 1x Warm White (2700k, 80+CRI); 1A max current, 15V required Channel 2: 2x Royal Blue (450nm), 1x 425nm Violet (Luxeon UV), 1x 415nm Violet (Luxeon UV); 1A max current, 12V required Channel 3: 1x Lime, 1x Warm White (2700k, 80+CRI), 1x Royal Blue, 1x Neutral White (4000k, 80+CRI); 700mA max current, 12V required Channel 4: 1x Blue (485nm), 1x Royal Blue (450nm), 1x Cyan (500nm); 1A max current, 9V required. A lot of thought and experimentation went into this configuration. It's cost me buckets of LED's to figure this out... but I feel like this is the PERFECT mix . At 100% it should result in something like 19-22k light (depending on your perception). It's focused on growth over unused accent colors but does include one Cyan and one Lime. The lime is too cool to not include and really allows a whiter look when called for - I feel that it does harm the overall color rendering, but it is an extremely efficient way to get a whiter light when you want it. If possible, I would run a 5th channel with just the lime. Cyan (~500nm) also doesn't do much for the coral but is necessary to compensate for the gap in phosphor converted white. This light leans towards warm white over neutral white - more warm white gives a very rich coloration that is less "sterile. Channel one, with one WW and 4 RB's is perfect for dawn and dusk viewing. You can see how it causes a reef tank to fluoresce here: You can see more of the coral growth and color rendering here http://bostonreefers.org/forums/index.php?threads/fresh-build-the-clean-white-stage.154756/page This is a bit of a specialty item - so let me know if you have any questions. They are sold with solder pads (not solderless headers) and are used, but have only reached about 1/10th of their usable life. Send me a text 978-502-7037 (preferred) or respond to this post. Best, Rob
  17. Hello guys, Just added a clown pair to my previously coral only setup. I already feed my corals reef roids regularly. This got me thinking about how practical feeding the fish and coral the same thing, in one go, would be. I know a lot of you probably have their own DIY recipe of sorts for feeding the tank. Care to share? My thoughts were something on the line of: - Seafood mix - Garlic - Bit of reef roids (for good measure) Blend and freeze. What are your thoughts?
  18. So I've been reading around on how to improve my evo, and I read I need to plug the hole in the false wall. Any idea on how I can do this safely? My tank has been up for a year and is already stocked.
  19. Hello, I'm now to this hobby. Been lurking this site for a couple months and finally ready to make the plunge. I've been reading up on rocks, cycling, livestock, power heads and everything else. I've actually started to accumulate supplies for this like a RODI, refractometer, rock, containers, wave-makers and other supplies I feel confident I could apply to whatever tank I end up choosing. And that brings me to where I'm stuck at, the tank. I've had a Biocube 32 LED in my cart for a couple months but can't seem to pull the trigger. I really love the look, I like that as a newbie and can kind of jump in with few additions (to start). I read the arguments against the Biocubes but I also see the incredible things people have done with even stock lighting; even somehow keeping a healthy anemone in a stock tank where it shouldn't be possible. However, the arguments against starting with a Biocube seem valid but the problem I have is finding an alternative in the same price range. For $400 I have a stand and a tank that is *close* to ready to cycle and then stock coral and fish plus I also dig the look. People say you can build your own tank for the costs of a 32 but I'm having trouble finding the info I would need to do this. So thats why I wonder if there a resources available on this site for this? I tried searching and will continue to so but so far I haven't found quite what I'm looking for. I'm looking to start a coral tank 40g or under with LPS and softies. Haven't really been hooked on SPS but I would however like an anemone (I imagine some experienced users ask "why would you want one?"). Then just a few fish like clown pair, a watchman goby and when the tank is established and I have cultivated enough pods on a separate tank, a Green. Mandarin Finally a CUC made up of snails, a pom pom, hermits and micro brittles depending on tank requirement. Part of my reservation is you don't know what you don't know. Like type a glass seems like something that becomes import but I'm just building the foundation of my knowledge and while you can read and research a component of that is time and experience. But still, I'm afraid I'm going to find out the hard way why something is important and end up regretting my purchases. If you made it this far, thanks so much for reading and I appreciate any tips. ~Danny
  20. This guy is extra salty

    This Salty Frag Tank

    So I have been thinking of doing this build for quite some time. mainly figuring what would be beneficial, and not having to upgrade just to “add” on to it. At the time I got a 60 gallon frag tank and stand at my LFS for an extremely great price. Now I’m probably going to be spending roughly 400(usd) for lights. I found that I can do a LED diy build for about 300$. Unless someone can convince me that there is a better option for under that price. (I’m going to be needing a high enough PAR to grow SPS) Next is the sump, I have a 20 tall boy. Which I’m going to “make” my 3 or 4 chambers with refugium included. (Planning on doing the Triton method) as for a mechanical filter, I’m going to have two filter socks that water will spill into the first chamber in the sump. And for biological filter I’m putting in 3 or 4 marine pure or the Brightwell bricks..maybe one powerhead will be sufficient, I haven’t decided. I’m open to any suggestions
  21. Ok, so my ato will be arriving on Thursday, and now I am on the hunt for a top off container that's not hundreds, and not a random bucket hanging out I'm my office. Ideas? I would want it to be at least a gallon( so I can get at least a week between fills) easy to get( i.e. target, Wal-Mart, home depot ect) and nice enough to not look outta place in an office. Send me ideas
  22. The River

    Biocube Hood Mod Rear Chamber

    I recently saw a post of someone that took the rim off their biocube and used the factory hood to cover the rear chamber area. They basically cut the hood front and removed the middle and attached the front section to the rear section so that it only covered the rear chamber area. It looked amazing and I want to give this a try on my system but can not find the post where I saw it. Does anyone know where I can see any info on doing this?
  23. Scalion

    120L DIY Scalion's tank

    Hello everyone, my name is Nicolas Marion, i'm from Montréal. So sorry if my english might sound off sometime I decide to use nano-reef.com has main platform to put the history of my tank, i realy enjoy the community here and the website. Background : I had a salt aquarium 12 years ago, i enjoy it, spend too much but boy i learn some lesson ! The reason i stop back then it was because of the heat and i couldn't control the heat correctly (Metal Halide) without spending huge amount of money for a chiller, i felt so guilty to lose fish/coral and i decide to stop. So life goes on, and recently i started back with aquarium, fresh water, i love it, plants, green, is my stuff, i felt like i didn't have anymore challenge and it was time go back with salt water. I read a lot before starting and i finaly decide my plans. I will use this first message with current update of the aquarium. I just bought my first coral couple hour ago, but i didn't do the aquascape wich for me is a very big deal, i think i need some help to figure out the best visual scape possible visible through 3 side. Also my real light will come tommorow (AI Prime HD), for now i use time to time my Kessil 360 WE Tuna sun from my freshwater. Live stock : Macro Algea Red Gracilaria hayi Caulerpa Racemosa Caulerpa Mexicana Caulerpa Serrulata Snails 2 Astraea tecta 2 Banded Trochus 5 Nassarius Shrimp 3 Sexy Shrimp (Thor amboinensis) Fishs 2 Adult/Pair Amphiprion Ocellaris 1 Damsel Springer (Chrysiptera springeri) Coral Clavularia sp. White Clove Polyps Sympodium sp. Blue/Green Sympodium Polyp Pachyclavularia violacea - Green Star Polyp (Metallic?) (Need help to ID correctly) Pseudocorynactis caribbeorum ? In a shell Xenia sp. White Pulsing Xenia (Need help to ID correctly) Euphyllia glabrescens sp. Peach Torch Entacmaea quadricolor sp. Rainbow Bubble Tip Anemone (Have around 7) Briareum asbestinum, Gorgonian Corky Sea Finger Acanthastrea echinata Red Seriatopora caliendrum (Green Birdsnest) Montipora Capricornis Red Platygyra Maze Brain Green Sponge Haliclona specimen (residue of) Zoanthids Armageddon Velociraptor or Dang Ding or Yellow mamba ? Yellow Road Block or Orange Bang ? Bam Bam Orange Beta Eyes ? Mushrooms Actinodiscus sp. Turquoise Pinstripe Discosoma sp. Blue Tonga Ricordea Florida sp. Green Dead stock : Fishs 2 Chromis viridis 3 HUGE Star Snail Money spent : (intial start evaluated around 1500$) Now 2600+ CDN
  24. Hey all, I was noticing that there seems to be very little forum post about BlueAcro, so I thought I would add my two cents and share my experience with their products. I decided to take the plunge and try their led's since I've been a little dissatisfied with Par38 lights, not that they didn't grow corals, but the corals never had good color since I had to sell my AI Prime (awesome light BTW) and I never really liked the spectrum (tried CoralCompulsion and a cheap Lumentek par38 from amazon). Plus not having control over intensity is a real draw back, especially the coral compulsion 24w 22k model over my 10g tank, I almost bleached my rockflower nem, had to remove the reflectors to fix that, plus I hated the disco ball effect. Now i'm not saying that Par38 lights are junk, they did the job and they grew corals, but they didn't satisfy my needs or wants. Now onto my review of BlueAcro The Good: This Led chip is the BEST I've used so far, my corals and I love the spectrum that this led provides. I can say this confidently because they are coloring up like the used to be under the AI Prime and are super lush ( if I can use that expression ). And the shimmer from this chip, by far the best shimmer I've every seen yet from a DIY led, almost like a kessil, not quite there but close. Color blending was exceptional (except when your using the their reflector, I'll get into that in the UGLY section), the blending was crisp and there was not a hint of disco ball affect, none that my eye's could see anyway. The chip itself is very small and compact, very impressed that those tiny diodes can throw out so much light, it also fit perfectly on the a Par38 heatsink that I retro fitted the Acrostar into. I also got their 2 channel driver, that thing was also tiny and worked very well with Manually adjusting the current to the channels, plus when I got the Coralux storm controller they just worked great with each other. The Bad: I hate to add this to my review but I felt it was worth mentioning, while the products were great the customer service is lacking. When I had made my order, which was fine, I had waited two weeks and had not received my order or got a shipping confirmation. I thought they had a lot of orders and were making more chips, but I didn't hear anything from them, so I emailed them what was the status of my order. I was emailed back three days later ( 3 days is just too long) and was informed that they some how missed the order and marked it shipped in their system. They apologized and refunded my shipping, which was $4 dollars. I got my order a few days later and when I had opened the box, they forgot to send the thermal paste I had bought (its $0.50, so I was not crying over this) and they forgot to send a wire disconnect tool that their video says is shipped with all their products, now these things are not the end of the world, I modified a paperclip so I could release the wires from their chips, but I was starting to become annoyed with the mistakes. The last thing is instructions for their products, there is almost nothing online and nothing was shipped with my order. Now the chips are not complicated and led was easy to figure out, but their driver took more guess work, particularly when hooking up the storm 5v PWM controller. There are 4 input connectors on the driver: Vin, Ground, Dim 1 and Dim 2. There was no information on were to hook up the pwm Ground wire, and being a poor man in a rich mans hobby, I didn't want to hook up the brand new controller wrong and fry it. I again emailed them and they took 2 days to get back to me, in which apparently the p/s ground and pwm ground are shared. I think this would have been important to give instructions for, because every driver I've seen online that take pwm signals have a separate ground from the power supply. Now I'm not trying to bash BlueAcro, maybe they have great customer service and I got the short end of the stick, but I didn't like the short end of the stick and I hope they read this review, make needed adjustments and be great company, because they make a great products. The Ugly: There only one thing I want to add here and it is the reflector that you can buy with the chip. I bought the 1/2 Acrostar and added the reflector/ diffuser to my order, the reflector seemed like a great idea to give the light more versatility on what corals I might want to have, but when I attached it to the chip it made half of my tank blue and the other half white. Now the reflector has these pegs sticking out of it and it can only fit flush with the led chip in only two positions, I tried both position and still my tank color all over the place. It seems that for whatever reason the reflector was ruining the color blending of the chip, even when I tried the diffuser and color blending was just bad. Maybe reflector was defective, but didn't feel like emailing them and waiting again. Conclusion: blueAcro makes great led chip and I would totally order another one when I have a need, even thinking about changing my 20g long tank to these led's. customer service is lacking but to me not a deal breaker, just hope that they can make some improvements and they will be a great option to the reefing community. I don't have any pictures yet of my light setup or the tank but I will post some soon. Peace out
  25. chaostactics

    I did a thing!

    I was too lazy to put together the right combination of search terms to find the "IM 40 thread". Built this with a circular saw and a dremel tool. The tank is now silent >6" away, nearly zero light spill from the fuge at night, looks SOOO much more clean, and reduces salt creep on the walls (probably reduces evap too). Before you count on your own there are 7 wires and 3 pieces of tubing in/out of my rear chambers.
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