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  1. Amphrites

    Amp's 20L Fortress of Fluff

    Well, it's a little late to start a build thread now seeing as the tank is mostly put together, if anything I suppose this will be more of a "polishing up" stocking and grow-out... thing... I do have some pictures I've taken of the process though and some little stories about how one thing or another got thrown together, but at this point I like the scape and stock enough I wanted to share it. Hope you enjoy! About 8 months ago I bumped into the opportunity to purchase a used Nuvo Atoll and AI prime light for $150 and I just couldn't say no. I'd been really wanting to get back into the hobby after moving off the big island of hawaii for ongoing health-reasons after a bout of myocarditis. It came in pretty scratched but I polished it up within an inch of the factory using the three-step Novus polish kit and some microfiber towels. Unfortunately I no longer really have any before and after pictures of the 6 or so hour process of getting everything nice a bright again, but I definitely learned I never want to deal with an acrylic tank again. I can't believe how easily these tanks scratch and how deeply at that... Next up was grabbing some rocks, I didn't want to deal with all the pests and unknowns which can hitchhike on live rock so I went with dry, instead figuring I would cycle the tank using ammonia, bottled Tim's, and some time. I couldn't really think of a fantastic scape Idea and had too many plans laid out, so I just ended up walking out of the LFS with a 30lb or so pile of Dry rock. I figured I could do some kind of really vertical scape to take advantage of the cylinder-shape of the tank, and I grabbed enough flat pieces that I felt like I could easily make a cove or island layout if I wanted to down-the-road. I replaced the stock pump with a Sicc nano 120 gph and bought a Sicc Voyager 240 for circulation alongside Brightwell N03 cubes, about "50 gallons worth" of Matrix and No3-out media, some chemi-pure blue nano satchels, phosguard, carbon, and egg-crate to hold it all in the AIO section. Underneath the overflow is filter-floss, carbon/phosguard, and then a chemipure satchel, to the right of it in the section which gets essentially no-flow is the NO3 seachem media, then in the large-middle section is half-a container of the brightwell NO3Out media and the Seachem Matrix. I also fashioned a little DIY lid out of Lowes scrap acrylic to keep evaporation down, though I really should have used some rods to keep it from warping, I still can't say I'm unhappy with the results. Bought a continuous power-supply UAC, which doubles as a backup for the nebulizer-compressor... And a Finnex 100W heater. Next-up the protoscaping while the tank cycled, I really wanted to try to maximize the amount of space I had for corals and livestock, while working with keeping a kind of full-tank-gyre action going. I was never really happy with the initial-concepts but couldn't quite figure out what I wanted to do, shy of keeping things bare-bottom, either. I managed to skip any huge algae or cyano breakouts and ended up with a 0-ammonia 10-nitrate tank within two moths, though I did get a few diatom blooms they always cleared up as fast as they came on. (That said I still get the occasional bloom after playing with my rockwork >_>) After two months wet, and about 1 month of feeding an empty tank, I decided to test the waters with a small clean-up crew, four nerite snails and a dwarf cerith. I never really took any pictures of them, but my wife and I both love watching the nerites zip all over the tank despite supposedly being "nocturnal", and have enjoyed trying to figure out where on earth the cerith is hiding during the day. Shortly thereafter we decided to grab a maxima from a local LFS, at the time it looked almost opal-white and was barely two or three inches across. I placed it towards the top of my rockwork and woke up the next morning to find that the little bugger had jumped into a hole and quite-firmly attached itself, prompting a "quick" re-working of the tank. Unfortunately working in the tank and scaping is much less pleasant than I had expected, certainly nowhere near as enjoyable as it used to be for me. Because of my various conditions I've lost most of my postural muscles over-time and have swinging electrolyte-imbalances which can cause shaking, spasms, and pain at just about any angle or weight. Needless to say working in the tank can at times be incredibly frustrating and physically-unpleasant, that said I still love aquascaping dearly and will probably end up with a planted bookshelf-tank or jar in the future. A shot of the clam and a Photo-bombing pair of nerites a few weeks-in. About a month later I decided it was time to start adding some corals when I chanced upon a bunch of indo euphyllia about to run out its' timer on Ebay, I picked up an unknown piece which I think is Baliensis, a bi-color frogspawn, and a yellow-ish hammer; plus a Florida-ricordea, chalice, and blasto-merletti colony for about $15 a piece after-shipping. Here's a grumpy shot of everyone after shipping, dipping, and dropping into the tank: And everyone a few days later: After an ongoing, impressively-successful, feeding regimen of sera-marin-granules (once a week) and 1/4 the recommended dose of RedSea AB I decided to order some plastic-coated neodimium magnets to replace the frag plugs, with the plan of epoxying and gluing their pairs into the rockwork, this way I can remove, swap, and frag the colonies without tearing apart my scape or worrying about much of anything. Unfortunately I think I went overkill on their strength as I can pretty much pick my rocks up by the corals XD Shot of the Maxima and Pink-green chalice after about a month settling-in and my dialing in the two-part dosing to keep alk and cal stable. The longer I had the scape up the more I realized the flow levels just weren't working out for the euphyllia or the chalice. The water coming off the voyager was getting deflected down directly onto the colonies and buffeting them, so I bought a timer to turn the powerhead off a few times a day as a temporary-solution until I felt ready to begin more re-scaping. After a week or so I decided breaking up the rock the Maxima was attached to was a great starting place as its' size and awkward shape left itself and the entire scape unsteady and prone to constantly coming apart while I tried to work with the coral. A few days ago my wife fell in love with this dark black-purple and rich-green anchor coral we found at a LFS, it reminds me of a truffula tree or some goofy fairytale-plant. Which leads me to the current iteration of the scape, overnight the new anchor coral decided to go cliff-diving and fell off its' plug entirely, to fish it out I pretty much had to tear apart the whole tank. With that said it did give me the opportunity and excuse I needed to completely-redesign my rockwork into something that would work better for my animals and for me. Four hours and a very sore back/core later and we have this beautiful little lagoon/cove which keeps the euphyllia sheltered from harsh flow and light, keeps the clam high-and center toward the Prime-puck, and the chalice in highish-flow and medium-ish light. The plan from here is to get a Lobo/Favia/Acan colony for the center and some bubblegum Digitata for the back-right of the wall (to be suspended by magnets) and decide on a small fish which won't harass the clam (No clown gobies, no damsels, I've heard clownfish can be mean...) maybe an assessor? I would love to try a yellow-stripe clingfish, but I know you're not supposed to keep pipefish with clams and am not sure if there's a similar rule. On top of that they're very difficult to keep and, while I would be willing to make it a little-feeding dish and shelter and go the extra-mile, even those who seem to do everything right tend to have their fish die within 3 years... Since there's no real information about their actual lifespan in the wild, I don't know how comfortable I am with the idea of potentially doing that to an animal when other species seem to adapt or even thrive in captivity by contrast. Anyway, that's pretty much the whole process of setting up this 13g nano, it has been a really long time since I've been able to play around with this hobby and honestly this tank has been jumping back into the deep-end for me. I'd love to hear any suggestions on livestock, but I want to keep it light and 10% every-other week or even monthly water-changes in the realm of possibility because of my condition (I test every three days to make sure nitrates are undetectable). Hope you enjoyed the read as much as I've loved browsing around the community and admiring all of your tanks and projects, hope you have a great day!
  2. This guy is extra salty

    Made of acrylic

    So I’m participating in the contest and I’m deciding to build EVERYTHING from scratch well except the acrylic which will be pulled from the scrap bin (my ole lady said,”You can participate if you don’t spend any money.”) Aka “TEAM BUDGET” FTS 10/31/19 Proposed equipment: 1-12x6x8 (2.5 gallon tank) 1-8x3x4 hob filter(acrylic) (didn’t work as planned) 1-160gph pump(for HOB Filter) 20$ (😭) 1-2.5x7.5 surface skimmer(acrylic) 1-AI prime HD w/mount 1- custom stand (for AI prime hd) 1-controller board (I’m debating this) 1-50w heater 1- hydor nano 240gph wave maker (too much flow) 1-90gph pump 1-Hydor water deflector 1-6ft water proof warm white led string (didn’t need it) 1-24hr timer 1- 🎁 auto aqua smart ATO/AWC (g 1- 🎁 Brightwell Aquatics Xport mini cubes (Gift) 2- 🎁 VCA random flow generators Total spent: -20$ I didn’t even need it 😭 Livestock: candycane pistol shrimp (pew 🔫 pew) moved to 160g ♾Bristle worms (who’s counting?) 4-cerith snails 4-astrea snails 4-trochus snails ♾majano anemones ♾aiptasia anemones Coral list: compliments of Corallivore Corals jedi mindtrick montipora (1 polyp is holding on) mystic sunset montipora didn’t make it Blue discosoma Teal discosoma blue spot discosoma orange ricordia rainbow ricordia reverse rainbow ricordia kedds red zoanthid rasta zoanthid eagle eye zoanthid nuclear waste zoanthid bam bam zoanthid rainbow infusion zoanthid armor of god zoanthid green finger leather Brown toadstool GSP blue clove polyp green Ricordia pink moon zoanthid BOP stylo Didn’t make it gorilla nipple zoanthid Pulsing xenia cove polyps cespitularia out grew the tank moved to 160 purple hammer moved to 160 macro algae dragons burp( compliments of @inland_reef) bubble algae GHA (it’s finally dying! 10/2/19) The beginning picture “4/2/19” with dehydrated apple rings and cuppy cakes Here is a shot of it empty
  3. MikeLNewell

    New tank plans - ADA 60-P

    I am in the process of planning a new reef tank and thought I would share my plans with the community. The plan is for an ADA-60p and, for the sake of planning, the associated stand. The space is a fireplace set inside a chimney brest in my dining room that has an arch around the top - it's fairly modest space size but would benefit from having something there to add value to the room. Here are a range of plans below. They are near enough to scale relative to one another. Red arrows indicate water direction. On to more specifics of the sump: There is a primary and emergency return from a narrow overflow box (which is based on something like this: https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/eclipse-s-overflow-box-600-gph-eshopps.html The primary return will then be split into two... There will be a bubble tower (inspired by Melev's designs) for one of the split returns. The water exits the bottom into the 1st section of the sump where the skimmer is housed. Along the front of the sump is a long thin refugium which is fed by the second of the split returns. The refugium runs the whole length of the sump and exits in the return chamber. The internal baffle will be black acrylic which will extend above the height of the sump to stop light leakage and algae growth in the other compartments of the sump. Here is a side on view of each of the compartments of the sump from L-R: split returns into bubble tower and refugium; skimmer section and first baffle; refugium outlet into return section and small probe holder. The return pump will join to flexible reinforced tubing to reduce noise then into a single return (likely with an anti siphon valve somewhere... something I've missed off). The specifics of components are yet to be decided. The skimmer size is based on something like this http://www.eshopps.com/products/proteinskimmer/midlevelline/x120/ I plan on building the sump myself from acrylic so open to suggestions regarding design. The biggest missing compartment is an ATO section - thinking of shortening the refugium and return section to accommodate for one. Space is a touch tight! Any feedback would be warmly received, particularly around the plumbing plans. Cheers, Mike
  4. RedCrow

    RedCrow's AIO 4.5 Gallon

    I've been out of the reef game for a bit of time (which was killing me), so I finally decided to set up a pico to satisfy the urge. My goal with this tank is to keep it as low maintenance as possible while still being able to keep some more demanding corals. I've always liked the appearance of peninsula style tanks, and I really wanted an AIO so I could grow chaeto. I ended up buying a Lifegard Aquatics 3.8 gallon rimless with built in side filter. I wasn't happy with the lack of space behind the false wall (there was only about 2.5"), and the glass was fogged rather than being opaque. I liked the quality of the tank itself, so I bought a regular rimless tank from them. Marine Depot lists this tank at 5.4 gallons; it's right around 4.5 gallons with nothing in it. I bought some black acrylic and built a rear chamber. The rear chamber is split in two; the left side is for chaeto, and the right side has a Finnex titanium heater and an MJ mini. I wanted the get an A80 for lighting, but wasn't quite ready to spend that much. I found this Chinese light on amazon for 50 bucks Here is the tank set up with no water And here it is after getting wet. I also cut some black acrylic to make a cover around the rear chamber. Live rock added And here is a full tank shot after the water had cleared. I added a couple zoas, and accidentally got a half a dozen blue leg hermits with the live rock. Now i just have to wait out the cycle.
  5. Wonderboy

    Project Xenia

    I don't even know the volume of this thing. It was important for it not to be too volumous, though. I set this up mainly because I wanted there to be some existing reason for making that ATO I retired from use for my 2.5G a while back. This is going to be my special little xenia experiment. I am not sure of all demands that this thing may need to be powered by xenia instead of any kind of pump, but I have some ideas and am willing to fail if not figure it out. This is what I've done so far: Start-up was 8-22-19 Ingredients: dry rock, water most from my 10G reef some RODI (for a salinity of 1.0205), 1/2mL Microbe-Lift Special Blend, fauna, macro, and a dash of Reef Roids Fauna introduced (same day): 1 blue leg hermit crab + shells, 7 tiny dwarf cerith snails, 1 asterina sp. starfish (which immediately split over night, so kind of 2), tisbe copepods, munnid copepods Macro: pretty sure it's a titanophora sp.? - it responds well to low or bright light - there's many little free floating pieces placed under the rock intentionally) Equip: jar, thrift shop stand/cabinet thing, air pump, acryllic top, DIY ATO bottle, little centrifugal fan, blue and pink LED lights strips (wattage: not a clue), 15min increment analog timer, and emergency didgeridoo I was aware already that these LED strips produce a good amount of heat from using them on my 2.5G - so I knew I would need to cool this thing. The fan is wired so that it is on with the LEDs. I had the fan mounted to the inside of the box at first - it pulled air from outside and pushed it up throught the LEDs - the water temperature was not being reduced (running at 83 - 84F) - swapped the fan to the outside (would have done it in the lower compartment if there wasn't a hole already) water temperature has been stable at 78 - 80F Adding the xenia soon - thanks for checking this nonsense out!
  6. Tom@HaslettMI

    Arch-Scape Reef

    Hello all. Finally starting a journal to share and document my reef. I’ve been a reef aquarist for a long time. I set up my first reef tank in the early 90’s, and I have had one ever since. This tank is an upgrade from a Marineland 25 gallon rimless tank. My goal for this thread is for pictures to do the talking... so I’ll try to keep the words to a minimum. Enjoy! May 2018. DIY stand being built. Empty tank just there to dream a bit. August 2018. The stand is mostly done. September 2018. Tank moved! Rock and coral just dropped in. Pile-o-rocks! October 2018. A peak under the hood. Wire organization mostly there. A de-rimmed 10 gallon as a temporary sump. November 2018. Arch complete! Thanks for looking! Tom
  7. Psilopsych

    12x12 diy cube

    So here it is. I built this tank from some free shelves I got from a couple on Craigslist. It’s 12x12 inches. I have a 250gph return and a 110 gph in the display for flow. An aqueon 10w heater, coralview 3” smart fan and inkbird to run them. Smart auto top off with a 5g rodi storage container. Filtration is tanken care of by foam, filter floss, chaetomorpha and an ns80 reef octopus skimmer. Great lil unit! There is around 9lbs live rock and a 2” sand bed. The tank is lit by a nanobox mini. Big upgrade from the Chinese box light. Livestock includes a oscilaris clown, pajama cardinal, Randall’s goby, margarita snails, astrea snails, electric blue hermit, red hermit, and left handed hermits. Corals. Chicken pox discoma and a red and blue dot disco. Green branching hammer. Blue branching hammer. Green octospawn. Eagle eye, gobstopper, and Rasta Zoas. Montipora setosa. Sunset montipora. Green palys and utter chaos paly. Birds nest. Some sad ass trumpets and acan that burned up with a crappy Chinese box light. And a green and purple Favia. I have had a lot of success’ and failures with this tank. I have lost fish,inverts ands corals. I have also brought corals back from the dead. I fought and beat bubble algae and bryopsis. All in all this tank has been a rollercoaster but I feel like I am finally getting on the right path. I do weekly 3-5g water changes. Clean the glass daily and test weekly to bi weekly. Hope yall like like what you see and happy reefing.
  8. This is not a cute little 'all in one' aquarium, this is a Frankenstein, a diy monster that is going to offend some with its lack of interest in traditional reefing. This is a hands on, built not bought reef. Most of you won't respond or comment, it's expected, but you will look because you must, it's your nature. So here for your enjoyment (quiet, unresponsive enjoyment) is a reef tank that has undergone changes, that has evolved since the first post and is flourishing. Here is the beginning, if you can make it to the end you might find that you enjoy it instead of skipping to the end now and not understanding what you are looking at... ... So this is my current Pico... 2.5 gallons... (this is a crappy picture that I murdered even further with a photo editor...) 6/26 new tank fts 9/20 fts Fts 10/12 Fts 12/3 And things are starting to get cramped, when the Duncan is fully extended he really takes up a lot of space on his own, not that he cares. He's just like that, but is also my favorite coral in the tank. (he's also growing 2 (maybe 3) new heads. I also want to spread out the zoas, move the Kenya tree further away and put the xenias in their own area. The anthelia I mowed down already but know it will come back which is fine. So enough of the why, let's get to the point. The new tank is going to be 6.5 gallons. (it's gonna be huuuge). I'm currently working on the hood and stand. I will be using my sump and canister filter from the smaller tank still. It's a semi hex and it was a gift. The wood is rough cut cedar I had left from a gazebo I built for a customer. So here are a few things I'm planning to do differently this time, because I have been paying attention : Better flow! I mean way better, turbulent! alternating! flow flow flow! My entire scape will be mounted to a removable background to make it easier to add new corals, move corals, treat algae or pests (should they appear from thin air or awaken from hibernation). This will also allow me to dip the entire scape if the corals require it. I will be adding violet and turquoise leds to my lighting and switching out my 10k whites for neutral whites for a better blending of color and spectrum. Ok, so here are a few things I want to do but won't really know how they will work until I get it set up. I plan to have a set of return lines behind my Live rock scrap and a set up top facing down. These lines will be powered by separate pumps that will alternate via a wave maker. I'm hoping that will be much better for keeping detritus from settling. My canister filter will be a sort of closed loop set up. Two returns coming up from the bottom with heads/nozzles designed to sweep the bottom of the tank and the drain mounted in the bottom as well to (theoretically) catch any debris. I plan to hollow out two small pieces of rock to hide these nozzles. Will my green star polyps hate this constant flow? They will be spread out on the bottom of the tank. I still have a lot to do and decide on, like most things I will probably change my mind about a dozen times before it is all said and done. So this is the beginning, I post pictures as I go, maybe you will find it interesting or maybe you won't (boooo) if you have tried any of the things I've said please let me know how or if they worked out for you. Thanks (fingers crossed I don't just screw this up :p)
  9. New Steves Led Hurricane pwm controller Comes with extra wire $40 plus shipping
  10. Hey everyone Quick note: i've never used silicone or sealed anything I purchased a used fish tank and attempted to reseal all the silicone (the silicone was really old and loose). I'm not sure if I did the silicone too thin.? Tank is 60g I have attached images of the job I did. Will this hold okay or should I re-do it ?
  11. I have taken down my tank and am looking o sell my DIY led/t5 hybrid light. This is a housing from a Coralife 4x 24" T5 lunar fixture. I removed 2 of the T5s, as well as the lunar LEDs, and mounted a 4 channel Nanobox Duo M inside of it. So total it has 2 24" T5s in the front and back each with individual reflectors, and a Nanobox Duo M (4 channels, moonlight channel, & lime LEDs) mounted in the middle. 4 channel Bluefish controlled with the t5s on a separate outlet. I'll also include the old nanobox duo gooseneck in case you want to restore it. The nanobox fan is burnt out. It is an easy fix, but works fine without it since the t5 has a fan and the housing is looser around the nanobox than the original housing. It also needs a cover for the nanobox fan hole I cut into the top. It also could use a better plexiglass protector, I couldn't find a single piece big enough. The mounts for the T5s are VERY rough, and it wasn't a finished project when I took it down. With a little TLC this could be a really clean fixture, but it's currently a bit rough around the edges. That being said, this thing works great for growing corals and has a great mix of flashy led and natural fluorescent spread. I really like the colors, and look of this light. I am selling because I have taken down the tank, sold all my stuff, and am moving across the globe.
  12. Hi, The skimmer is noisy, hard to maintain (Fluval PS2) and eats coral's food. I found a better solution - (UAS) Upflow Algae Scrubber. Your water will be crystal clear and maintenance is very easy. You will need (upd. you don't need an airpump in AIO chamber area). Innovative Marine AUQA Gadget Chaetomax 2-in-1 9W Refugium LED 1$ basked from the dollar store (just find any basket that will fit) Plastic mesh screen (I rub it on asphalt to make it rough) Airpump (I think is not necessary, but I use one for "Micro and nano bubble tank treatment" and for this scrubber too). I use Fluval Q2 (stay away from noisy Q1). Airline tubing with many holes (I drill with 1/16 drill). Always use Check Valve and stay away from "Hagen Elite Check Valve". Airline Gate Valve for air control One Suction Cups (I use "Marina Black Thermometer Suction Cups") I attach the mesh screen on each side of the basket (using tie wraps, but you can use reef safe glue). Use a drill to make the hole in the airline tubing - if not, all the air will out from the biggest holes: Scrubber test: I put it in the middle chamber: Result: UAS in working (at night when light off): Future upgrades: I need to install this for better airline tubing: Good luck!
  13. MrGlass1024

    Dirt Cheap DIY Pico Peninsula

    Dirt Cheap DIY Pico Peninsula How it happened: I've been keeping fresh water aquariums for an year now, mostly pico and nano planted tanks, while they are great fun they are now all mature and pretty much take care of themselves, so I've been looking for a new challenge. Since my house is pretty much strapped for aquarium space and we have a baby on the way the only option was a nano/pico reef. Luckily during a random trip to a big box hardware store I found the perfect little 2.5 gallon (10 litter) tank. Well 3 months of research and bargain shopping this is the result: The Gear (approximate price in dollars) Aquarium: 2.5 gallon (10 litter) 12$ Filtration: Old noname HOB that happened to fit the aquarium perfectly ~15$ Filter Media: Seachem Matrix leftovers from fresh water aquarium bought it bulk so i'd say it's about 3$ worth Lights: 2 noname white and blue led lights 6W each 18$ 1 strip of 18 high powered blue actinic leds 6$ Heating: Aquael Slim 25W 20$ Cooling: Single 60mm 12W pc fan 3$ Thermometer: JBL slim 3$ ATO: Airtight cereal box 3$ Air tubing & 2 valves 2$ Timers: 3 digital timers 15$ Aquascape; 2 small pieces of dry Zanzibar rock 8$ 2 litters of dry Zanzibar 3mm sand 5$ Other random bits & bobs: wires, plexiglass, super glue etc. 7$ GRAND TOTAL: ~120 $ The setup Lighting Since the 2 LED lights I found in a LFS didn't have blue and white channel controls and seemed a bit under powered, I decided to augment them a bit with a led strip I found in a hobby shop. The strip is SMD2835 12V and claims that each LED outputs 100 lumens also it's IP67 water resistant and comes with double sided tape pre-attached, should be more then suited to light this little tank. All I did is solder a power connector to the led strip made sure it's covered thoroughly with shrink wrap, plugged it in to a 12 power supply I had laying around. I've mounted them to a thin piece of transparent plexi (wish I had a white piece but what can you do), glued some standoffs and then glued the whole thing in between the two lights I already have. Job done, now I can have the blues on one timer and the whites on another. What I would have done differently is add a switch to the LED strip cable so I don't need to unplug it to turn it off and use a white piece of plexi to match the LED lights. ATO For an ATO I decided to go for a simple gravity fed drip system to keep the cost as low as possible. I got an airtight cereal box container, used my soldering iron make two holes the size of the air tubing. I threaded 2 pieces of tubing one that goes close to the boom and a short one that goes in about one inch into the container. Because the tubing tended to curl up I threaded the long one in a plastic straw to stiffen it up. After I made sure that the lengths of the tubing are right I super-glued around the holes to make a seal as air tight as possible. (inert silicone would have been a lot better but I didn't have any at hand) At the end of the tube that runs to the aquarium I put two valves for a more precise control of flow. In order to figure out how many drops per second I needed to keep up the evaporation I let the aquarium run for 24 hrs then measured how much it evaporated. As it turns out it evaporates exactly 0,5 litters... lucky me the maths will be easy. Assuming a drop is 0,05 ml I end up needing about a drop every 8,3 seconds roughly. That was the easy bit getting the valves closed just right took me about 45 minutes of trial and error, my phone timer never had as much use. The drip rate will most likely have to be adjusted as the seasons change and the light schedule will be set. After two days I'm satisfied with the results the level is pretty much unchanged. The container is big enough that I don't need to refill it for 4 day and It also has a handy dandy flip cap so I can re fill without removing the lid. What I would have done differently is get a "prettier" container as the wife doesn't approve of this (and I quote) "ugly ass bottle of water in between my beautiful plants" Cooling Since my house is basically a sauna all year around, a cooler is a must. I went with a small 12V, 60mm processor fan, as quiet as I could find. I cut a usb cable and spliced the fan the power cables to the USB cable again making sure to carefully shrinkwrap the finished product. Then all I did is plug it in in a old mobile phone usb power brick. Pro tip: use a 5V power supply the fan will work at approximately 40% speed and it is inaudible. I used double sided tape to fix the fan to the HOB filter with some hot glue added for extra safety. The fan is plugged into a timer after some fiddling with duration of on time I got stable temperature 26C (78F) with one hour on one hour off time, as with the ATO the schedule will have to change to account for seasonal temp fluctuations and lighting schedule. What would I have done differently is spring for a 30$ JBL temp sensor to have precise control but unfortunately the sensor only supplies 12V so the fan would be considerably nosier. Filtration & Flow As it stands the filter witch is 400l(100gl)/h is over kill, I'm pretty sure even on the low setting it could easily provide flow for SPS, even on the lowest setting but I intend to fit in a filter pad and possibly a light over it to make it into a mini refugium which would slow down the flow considerably. Heating Heater barely fits in the HOB filter wohoooo! Aquascape I wanted to go for something very simple and that looks good on all sides because the pico-reef sits in between my wife and my desk, so I spent hours looking through the box of rock and measuring each piece till I found the combination we both liked. After I washed the sand and the rocks in RODI water I dried them thoroughly, mocked the layout and proceeded to use gel super glue to fix the rocks to the bottom of the aquarium again silicone would have been muuuuch better. The damn glue takes ages to cure, being a bit impatient and a colossal moron, I thought let's use my wife's blow-drier on blister hot to speed up things ... WRONG! ... Do not do this! not only did it not speed it up significantly, the hot air evaporated the glue making a irritating toxic fume, my eyes were watering and my sinuses were on fire for a couple of hours! Current Status (21.03.2019) Tank has been cycling using Seachem Stability, a bit of seeded Seachem Matrix and daily small ghost feedings for about 3 days. Ammonia is starting to show up so the sit and wait phase of the process is on it's way. It's the first time I use any bacteria in a bottle and I'm really curious if it has any impact. Chemistry: Salinity; 1.025 Ammonia: ~1ppm Nitrite: 0 ppm Nitrate: 0 ppm Temp: 26C/78F I will start test alk/cal/ph as soon as my Saliferst tests arrive. Which reminds me... "Hidden" Costs: RO unit: Aquamedic 2,5gl/hr 50$ Various water tests: Salifert NH4 NO2 NO3 Calc Alk ~50$ Refractometer: Red Sea 50$ Salt: Red sea coral pro 7kg/15lb 25$ (should last me for ages even with 100% water changes) Total: 175$ Future Plans Make a Plexiglas lid, I already have some supports left over this should be easy to do. Make a mini refugium in the HOB filter, might need some further research for this, as I what I gathered it might have low to no impact in such a small space. Define a maintenance schedule: weekly water changes, ato refilling, glass cleaning etc depending on the stocking. Planed Livestock CUC: one blue legged hermit one snail (astrea?) one/two shrimp (I'm quite partial to the cleaners, wife likes the red ones with white dots) Coral: Zoas Mushrooms Palys GSP (on the back wall) Xenia (wife's favourite) Hammer (my favourite) That's about it, I'll make sure to update as things evolve and I'll leave you with a few more pics of the tank:
  14. ryn_keeto

    IM Mesh Kit Question

    Hi there, I’m setting up a Fluval Evo 13.5 and used the Innovative Marine DIY Mesh Kit to make an open lid as one of my upgrades. My measurements and cuts were just a hair off on one side so i stupidly tried to sand down the frame and corner plastic to get it to fit (which it did), rather than disassembling it, trimming the piece, and hoping the mesh would last through removal and reinsertion. During the sanding I exposed some of the metal (aluminum) beneath the paint on one side. My question is, do I need to worry about condensation from the tank reacting with the aluminum in a negative way? I’d rather not re-do the project, but I also want to make sure I’m not leaving something in place that will leech harmful somethings into the tank. Thanks for your help!
  15. (I posted this same post in the corals forum) Hi. I'M new to the forum and was hoping some experienced reefers could offer some advice on my coral health! I have a 20 gallon DIY mixed reef tank that has been running for about 6 months. I have about 1 year experience running a 75 gallon reef tank that I took down about 6 years ago when I left for college. Everything I have added (soft corals, LPS, fish, inverts, nem) seems healthy and has been a pleasure to watch. Up until now I have never tried any SPS corals. 5 days ago I decided to venture into some "beginner" SPS. I don't have very accurate water testing kits so I am not looking to advance any further with difficult corals until I can at least better monitor my water parameters. I have a very large amount of live rock for the tank size and two hang-off-the-back filters (in case one ever fails). My heater is a decently stable and my digital thermometer always reads 78.4-78.8. My lighting is not very strong: Marineland LEDs rated at about 100 par at 12 inches and 6000K. It is also not diffuse at all and has almost spotlights of higher intensity throughout the tank. (yes, I plan to upgrade my lighting when I have the funds in about a month). I bought two montipora frags 5 days ago, one large orange monti cap and one small sunset monti. Both came from my LFS and were not shipped (at least not any time recently). To compensate for my low lighting I placed them about 5 inches down in the water directly under the "spotlights" from my LEDs. I really don't know enough to tell if they're doing ok or not. given that my situation is atypical bordering on stupid (I know it sounds bad) I want to make sure Im not killing the frags. I have a friend with a very successful SPS tank who will take them if I'm hurting them and I just don't want to see them die! I think they might be doing ok. I'll be watching for long term signs of health but I just wanted to ask if there are any issues visibly indicating immediate shock from new/bad tank conditions. Please don't be too hard on me. I know you'll want to know my water parameters and more details than I can probably measure. I don't want advice on keeping them alive as much as advice on how to tell if they're healthy (although all input is appreciated). If they aren't healthy I will rehome them at the first clear sign they're declining. I have attached pictures.
  16. Fisker

    DIY Skimmer!

    Hello! So, I've recently put together a janky skimmer for use in my 10 gallon - it's definitely ugly, but it seems to be getting the job done. I do have a few questions, though. I used a well-rinsed Powerade bottle for the body of the skimmer, and used an old gravel vac hose to connect the skimmer to the collection cup. I'm just using a cheap Whisper pump for air, along with a wooden airstone meant for use in a Biocube skimmer. I pretty much copied one of the DIY MAME skimmer designs that you see floating around. It collected over 700 mL of skimmate during the first night, and it was all the color of urine. Kinda smelled like it too. I did some adjusting, and collected nothing yesterday (I had it way too far out of the water, I guess), and today, I've collected around 75-100 mL of yellow-brown liquid. Doesn't have too much of a smell, but it's definitely darker and a bit thicker than what I collected the first night. From what I've gathered online, 75 mL of skimmate in a 12 hour period is still super wet skimming for a ten gallon, is it not? What can I do to skim a bit drier, besides lifting the bottle up farther (because then it seems to stop collecting anything at all)? I've read that some people absolutely LOVE wet skimming, and that others despise it. From what I've gathered, wet skimming removes more from the water, but at the cost of removing saltwater and requiring that you empty the collection cup more often - is that correct? If not, what exactly are the pros and cons of wet skimming? I plan to revisit this project soon, and to try and make it look nicer and more efficient. I have a pretty limited skillset (and toolset), so keep that in mind while you're suggesting - but what can I do to make this better? So far, I definitely plan to use a clear, smooth water bottle next time. Probably a Smart Water bottle, for the shape. I also plan to shorten the airline that goes to the airstone, as I'm pretty sure my airpump isn't pushing quite enough air through the airstone - not a huge problem, but I think I can improve on that pretty easily. Thoughts?
  17. Established: October 2017 Disclaimer: It's a long one! (that's what she said?) Hello everyone! My name is André, and I'm from the Azores (a somewhat hidden piece of paradise). This is my second saltwater tank, but the first built on actual experience and purpose. The goal of this tank (yet to be achieved) was to house a small species of Mantis Shrimp. Sadly, Capitan Hook died prematurely during a shipping misstep. Sad times. Anyway, the tank is now an actual reef, and the mantis shrimp idea is on hold. One main idea with this tank (coming from a 50g) was to reduce the equipment and maintenance needed and increase the overall enjoyment of the actual tank. In my case because I collect my own NSW that meant that reducing the total volume of the tank would have a pretty significant impact on the time put into my weekly routine. Also, I wanted it to have a clean, minimalistic look and feel. Especially in a small tank that meant hiding the equipment, so an AIO became an obvious solution. Finally, it had to be cheap. Unhappy wife would mean soon-to-be-dismantled tank xD. Bought some glass, aquarium safe silicone and some acrylic sheets. As I had access to a laser cutter from a jewelry store, all the pieces were custom made to fit the tank. That being said, on to the original setup: Equipment Tank: DIY 10g AIO Lighting: Chinese Par 38 LED Bulb Circulation: Sicce Syncra Silent 1.5 Filtration: Filter floss, sponge and purigen Temp. Control: Small 50w heater ATO: Tunze Nano Osmolator Skimmer: Air stone diy water bottle skimmer Corals Utterchaos Zoas Scrambled egg Zoas Gorilla nipples Zoas Playboybunny Zoas Sunny D Zoas Rastas Zoas Orange Bam Bams Zoas Ring of Fire Zoas Blue Hornet Zoas Purple Bee Zoas Keds Reds Zoas Red Hornet Zoas Green Mushroom ————————–————————————— Below, a visual time-line of some of the phases the tank went through until reaching its current state: October 2017 It's safer than it looks... Back of the AIO Custom media basket Finished!! Acrilic top helped cut down evaporation and paved the way for the removal of the ATO. November / December 2017 Used some Frieda rock to seed new one, but it starts getting some bad air algae. Had no snails to counter it at the time. Ricordea Florida January - June 2018 - New rock structure made using reef glue added for a hair algae free start. This structure (or rather, part of it) would make it to present day! One of the "legs" broke and the structure had to be adapted. Tailspot Blenny, who sadly died a few days after coming in. Aiptasia eating monster! Tank born little trochus snail. New additions! Couple clownfish, torch, montipora, digitata and hydnophora corals. Top view Side view Simple "refugium" with some chaeto strands added to the back of the tank. July 2018 - changes to lighting and circulation AI Prime HD added! Spin Stream arrived! Unexpected hitchhiker... After light and flow adjustments August 18 Zoa island Current Equipment Tank: DIY 10g AIO Lighting: Ai Prime HD Circulation: Sicce Syncra Silent 1.5 + IM Spin Stream Filtration: Filter floss, sponge and purigen + Tunze 9001 Temp. Control: Small 50w heater Skimmer: Tunze 9001 Current stock - Occelaris Clownfish x 2 - Trochus Snails x 4 - Zoas (same as above) - Blue, orange and green ricordeas - Green and blue mushrooms - Torch Euphyllia - Red Montipora - Pink Digitata - Green Hydnophora - Purple and green Clavularia After a lot of changes and my fair share of challenges, I finally feel like it's on the right track. Feel free to offer insight or ask questions. Abraço, ffoott
  18. Hey Nano Reef! I'm looking for a way to make bulk food for herbivorous invertebrates and possibly fish at home. Living where I am I have a lot of access to various washed up kelp and macro algae and I was wondering if i could process them and turn them into food pellets or sheets for urchins and such, maybe drying/ freezing them. If anyone has any ideas please pitch in! A side note is that I could probably use the scraps to make reef and garden supplements as kelp contains most everything needed. Thanks!
  19. This DIY is intended for a pico or small nano mixed reef tank that's around 1-6 gallons. Could also be used as a refugium light or other small scale need. I'm trying to get this DIY our there because pico tanks are super fun and they're becoming much more popular too. They also have very simple lighting requirements despite what some people might say. You don't need to spend $100+ on a pico light! Many of the commercially available lights are simply overkill for a typical mixed reef pico. On the flip side the cheap Amazon/eBay lights can have sketchy quality, bad color rendering, or low PAR. The cheap lights can also be overkill because they're so cheap that we tend to overbuy. So rather than spending a ton on a light that's overkill or buying a light that you don't know if it will even work take a look at DIY. This light has exactly the features needed for a typical mixed reef pico or small nano. Also it's super easy. I'm tempted to buy these parts again and have my 7 year old try to build it - I actually think she could with some practice soldering. FYI I'm using this light on my Fluval Spec III and it works much better than the stock light! Still to do: Design a simple mounting solution. I'll update with that video when I've made one. Materials list - total cost: $25. $5 Meanwell LDD-700 HW https://www.ledsupply.com/led-drivers/mean-well-ldd-h-series-cc-step-down-mode $8 2x Royal Blue XT-E https://www.ledsupply.com/leds/cree-xlamp-xt-e-royal-blue-leds $4 1x Neutral white (4000-5000K) https://www.ledsupply.com/leds/cree-xlamp-xt-e-white-leds $3 12-24v LED PWM dimmer https://www.amazon.com/XtraLED-Dimming-Controller-Lights-Ribbon/dp/B00H8KTXNU (can get it prime for $6) $5 12v 2A DC power supply https://www.amazon.com/Choose-Nice-TM-Switching-Regulated/dp/B00LPCX2BQ/ref=sr_1_34?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1509556333&sr=1-34&keywords=12v+power+supply includes plug adapter You'll also need some wire, thermal paste, epoxy, and an old computer heatsink or something similar. Credits: I did not come up with this idea, just modified the information found on thePlantedTank.net.
  20. Hey everyone I made a diy mount for my two hydra 26 lights and it only cost about $25 to make both mounts which is a lot cheaper than the store bought ones, feel free to ask any questions on how I did it! I still need to paint them and drill holes to hide the wires.
  21. teatimecrumpet

    Automatic Top-off help

    Hi, I'm new to NR and want to start off by saying thank you and looking forward to helping where I can and soaking up all the available knowledge! I'm looking to build an ATO using a 12VDC relay, a float switch, and an extension cord for an air pump to a sealed reservoir. I just have a couple of questions before I buy the parts on ebay. I noticed that the relays I keep finding show 2 of the 8 pins offset one on each side. The ones I've seen in the guides and from kingofdiy on youtube show them aligned in perfect squares. Am I missing something or is it the same in just a different layout https://www.ebay.com/itm/12VDC-Coil-Power-Relay-10A-DPDT-LY2NJ-HH62P-L-JQX-13F-2Z-with-PTF08A-Socket-Base/372497925221?hash=item56ba9b4465:m:m6tI55ExbILUQP5twtNrSdg:rk:3:pf:0 Which is better air pump or water pump? I chose an air pump over a pump because I'd rather an air pump run dry and break than an overflowing tank (though I'm thinking I'm going to put a float switch in reverse in the reservoir maybe or in reverse at the top of the tank). Is there a limit to what I plug into the modified extension cord in terms of wattage? I noticed the guides mention getting DC vs AC equipment when the relay is going directly into the equipment but since this is going into the extension cord do I even have to worry about that? Thank you all!
  22. Hey Nano-Reef! I've decided that I'd like to take a shot at a cold water reef, and after digging in the old equipment a little, I realized I have most of the parts lying around. Chillers are expensive, and I love to make things, so decided to take an old office water chiller and turn it into an aquarium safe water chiller. I had some titanium tubes from another project, and they were pretty cheap, 3$ each from ebay. They're a little short and a little thin, 1/4 OD and only 12 in long. Most in tank coil chillers use a Titanium coil where the cooling end filled with gas is directly in the tank, But I don't have the tools (or Licences), to work with the whole soldering and welding/ weird refrigeration gasses it would require, Instead, I'm using the cold water from the chiller and pumping it through the titanium tubes I've bent. The benefit from this so that I can use multiple 1/4 tubes in order to move heat in a smaller area, as well as having the force from the pump have a little more room than just 1/2 to 1/4, now it'll be 1/2 to two or three 1/4s at 80 GPH, as well as being able to disassemble and reconfigure everything, or even add more coils alter on. The main tank itself will be a 2.5 gallon tank with a tiny cheap HOB filter and Macroalage until I can acquire some cold water organisms like strawberry anemones. I'm not sure of the lighting yet, But I think I might do DIY LED strip. It's cold water, so the only organisms for a while will be low light. Cold water usually needs more water changes than warm, from what I've read, so the size may be a little easier to keep up with. I may upgrade to a 7.5 Gallon rimless i've been saving for something nice. Opinions are always welcome and always appreciated, I'm new to cold water and any help in the form of advice or constructive criticism is awesome. Here's the mount for the Titanium tubes in CAD to be 3d printed: (if anyone wants the STL file em lemme know)
  23. kopilatte

    Jed's 20G Long Frag Tank DIY

    I have a fluval evo 13 that is almost full of corals, some zoas are already reproduce a lot and i need somewhere to place them. I wanna buy bigger tank but not right now because i have a lot of expenses. So i bought 20 gallon long from petco $1 per gallon. I was thinking about drilling the tank and have sump, but then i don't want to make this frag tank simple. I read about HOB filter, so i bought Aquaclear 50, but then it was too small, so i returned it and get 110 for replacement. Attached is the tank and the HOB filter. With aquaclear 110 i will have space to make it as refugium.
  24. Aquademiksreef

    Aquademiksreef

    Nano Reef: personalizado (feito em casa) 60x30x30 cm Luminária: Current USA Orbit Marine Led Termostato: Ocean Tech 50w Skimmer: Bubble Magus QQ Bomba de Recalque: SB 1000lh Bomba de circulação: Continua...
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