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Found 15 results

  1. I've been a bad hobbyist. I haven't QT'd - I know, I know! I'm terrible. But I'm repenting for my reefing sins before anything too bad can happen. I've got a juvenile yellow tang in my 55 FOWLR that's showing signs of ich (I'm relatively confident that it's not velvet, as I'm not seeing any dusting on the body, just a few spots on fins) every now and then. It'll flare up after some sort of stress, and then once the parasites drop off, they don't seem to come back for a second round - not visibly, at least. The latest incident was caused by me adding a molly to the tank, I think. She had no previous immunity, so she was covered in ich for a few days, which I guess could have caused the amount of parasites in the tank raise, which caused an outbreak on the tang? I'm not sure - but it sounds smart to me! Regardless, I'm now trying to figure out the best way to treat all of my tanks, as most of them have had some sort of contact (shared fish, rock, nets, etc...), and none have been QT'd. Basically, I'm asking what you guys would do in this situation, and am trying to figure out the best way to proceed without crashing and burning. Here's what I'm doing for each of my tanks: 55 Gallon FOWLR: Stock List: 1 Juvenile Yellow Tang 1 Clarkii Clownfish 1 Yellowtail Damsel 1 Green Spotted Puffer 1 Molly 1 Banded Snake Eel Symptoms: Tang has been showing ich spots. Minor outbreaks caused by stress - I'm pretty confident that it is ich, and not velvet. Molly has previously shown ich, but seems to have built up some resistance to it. No other fish appear ill. Treatment Plan: Hyposalinity in my DT. I know this isn't everyone's favorite anymore, what with velvet and strains of hypo-resistant ich, but I've only got 10 gallon hospital tanks. I do have three of them available, but I'm afraid cramming some relatively aggressive fish into small tanks will do more harm than good. With the amount of fish I have (and my current work schedule) I doubt I could make the TTM work. I could use copper, as I have some Copper Power, but then I'd have to leave all the fish in the small tanks while I let the tank run fallow - which, per @Humblefish's latest suggestion, could be done in around 2-3 weeks at a high enough temperature. What do you guys think? I'm open to suggestions. The snake eel is also a burrowing species, and I doubt I could keep enough sand for it to borrow with absorption issues with copper, right? Or no? I've started lowering my DT from it's normal 1.023, and have made it to 1.020 over the past day. I'm basically taking out a bucket of saltwater and replacing it with freshwater - from the reading I've done, I think if I do it slow enough, I should be able to preserve most of my biofilter. I'm not in a massive rush, either, as all of my fish have proven to be resilient to this so far, so I think I have the time to slowly lower the tank into hypo. I'm also confident that I can hold it at 1.009. However, if the consensus from you guys is that hypo-resistant strains of ich are common enough to make hypo obsolete, I'm willing to give copper a try somehow. 40 Gallon Macro Tank: Stock List: 1 Molly 2 Orange-line Chromis (AKA Spiny Chromis) 1 Scissortail Dartfish Symptoms: None. No fish in this tank appear ill, although I'm looking to have entirely "clean" tanks by the end of this. Treatment Plan: I figure that once the 55 is dealt with, and my hospital tanks are free, I'd just put these guys into a 10 gallon and follow Humblefish's QT method on his website. I'm in no rush to do this, as these fish seem completely healthy - but, I'd like to include it here just in case, as I'm in uncharted territory. I know that new macros can host disease just as coral can, so I assume I should QT my new macros in a fishless tank for around 16 days to make sure any velvet is dead, right? 37 Gallon Wyoming White Tank: Stock List: 2 Wyoming White Ocellaris Clownfish Symptoms: None. This pair has been showing breeding behaviour, so this tank is set up as a breeder. Bare bottom, basic equipment, and just a small piece of rock that can be removed to a separate tank in the event of eggs. Treatment Plan: I think I could probably just remove the rock and follow Humble's QT protocol in this tank, and eventually add the rock back in afterwards. Again, I see no issues with this, but does anyone else? 20 Gallon Pseudomugil Cyanodorsalis Breeding Tank: Stock List: Empty, although 6 pairs of P. Cyanodorsalis will be arriving on Wednesday or Thursday from Gary Lange. Symptoms: Duh, none. I don't have the fish yet! Treatment Plan: These fish are kin to freshwater dwarf rainbows, but are from marshes in Australia where they experience hypersaline water for part of the year. Awesome fish, and I can't wait to have them - I had cycled this tank with media from my 55 gallon, as this tank was running at around 1.020. So I probably introduced plenty of ickies when I moved that media over. Since these are euryhaline fish, would it be reasonable to introduce them to this tank, and begin to lower the SG to around 1.002? I know velvet begins to die off around 3 PPT, which is about 1.002. How long would I have to hold it that low for velvet to die out? I know most other marine disease would probably die along with velvet, so I guess this is my plan. Unless someone sees a flaw in it, of course. So, yeah, that's what I'm currently stressing about. It helps me to write it out, and to get input from people who know more than me. I truly appreciate the read and any advice you guys can give me. And yes, I will be QT'ing from here on out. Lesson learned!
  2. Hi anything helps here, I’ve had my tank setup for almost two years and bought a new zoanthid frag a week ago. The tank parameters are in check and all of the other corals are doing great but a few days ago some of the polyps turned pinkish/white and have not opened since. If anyone has any suggestions to please let me know!
  3. chris_pull

    Clownfish white poop

    Hi all, I've recently set up my first reef aquarium (80L). I've been cycling for a month and the parameters looked good, so I added a pair of frostbite clowns from a local LFS. Yesterday, I noticed the male had white stringy poop. A quick google and it looks exactly like all the other forum posts that say this is an intestinal worm. I also think his stomach looks a bit plump, but he did eat a lot yesterday morning. I happened to already have esha -ndx on hand, which is supposedly one of the best worm treatments we can get in the UK, and so I dosed the aquarium. Given the price tag of these fish I didn't want to wait and see in case things got worse (he currently seems okay). This morning, about 12 hours after dosing, I noticed what looked like a wiry, long hair wriggling around in the water. I can't tell if it was alive or just moving in the current. I eventually lost sight of it. I wondered, could this have been the worm inside the fish? It was sort of brown/white and looked like a very thin worm. I hope I did the right thing jumping right to treating the fish and that this indeed was the worm that has now been expelled. Cheers, Chris
  4. Hi there guys! I hear this group is very helpful and I definitely could use some help. Testing parameters: 0.0 ammonia 0.0 nitrites 0.1 nitrates 7.6 dkh 420 calcium 0.15 phos 1350 mag 1.025 salinity My clownfish has been swimming around and laying at the bottom. It’s like his back half doesn’t want to swim. He can’t go up even with the flow turned off. He tries to eat. White stringy poop. I dosed prazipro and it doesn’t seem to be helping. This has been happening since Thursday night. The first video is of last night. The video in the breeder box was about a two days ago when I was trying to feed him and made sure he wasn’t picked on. That didn’t help. When I released him back into the DT he seemed less stressed so I left him be. I also have tried feeding hexsheild and he doesnt seem to take that - but he will go after baby brine shrimp since they swim in front of his face. I'm at such a loss. I ordered Seachem Focus, Metro, and Kana but that wont arrive until friday. Their diet is: TDO Chromaboost Live baby brine shrimp Frozen mysis So in total so far I have done: Dosed prazipro on Friday June 12, 2020 Attempted to feed Hex Sheild Did a freshwater bath / epsom salt bath What can I do? Videos are below:
  5. CosmicCorals

    Can you ID this disease?

    I apologize in advance for the photo quality. I have a clownfish and a chromis in a 20 gallon. I’ve had both fish for 6 months and no new fish have been added. However, I did add a few new corals frags and 2 red scarlet crabs about a week ago. Today, I noticed that the chromis developed a white bump on it’s head. The bump looks slightly elevated. Can anyone ID what this is and what I should do? I appreciate any help I can get. Thanks.
  6. Hey guys, my first post here and a novice to saltwater tanks. I've been wanting a saltwater tank for probably the last 8 years and finally convinced the wifey and got one up and running! Did tons of fourm searching on here and others about set up, after talking with my LFS and searching the forums (as well as watching Mr. Saltwater Tank and others on youtube) I decided to go with bottled bacteria (bio-spira and seachem stability) along with arag-alive sand to start the cycle and have clowns in for the ammonia source. (I know cycling with fish is a hot topic and it seems there are strong arguments on both sides so I deduced it as more of a preference than a rule.) Anyways, Got my two clowns yesterday and they looked great but now one of them has a milky white smudge on his tail and I'm worried hoping not to lose my expensive designer clown already. After tons of research on the topic I read up on clownfish disease, ich, flukes, bacterial infections, ammonia poisoning and an assortment of others. A lot of them have overlapping symptoms so I hope some of y'all can help me out before I do any drastic medicating. I'm leaning towards possibly a bacteria infection. Both fish don't really like the pellets and flakes I've tied but they love frozen mysis shrimp, so they aren't showing signs of not eating. Tested water today ammonia is .25 ppm and almost no nitrites or nitrates. Please take a look at the TOP BACK FIN in the PICTURES and diagnose for me as I can't seem to tell what exactly it could be. Also what treatment you would recommend, I'm leaning towards doing a freshwater dip along with a bacteria medication and a small water change, only thing is I didn't want to do a water change this early so as to not disrupt the tank cycling. Any help (preferably ASAP as some diseases kill quite quickly) would be immensely appreciated!!
  7. TalonlV

    Ich prevention

    I have a disease free Biocube 32 gal freshwater setup. Can someone or hopefully many of you weigh in on my idea to use Cupramine as a prophylaxis to prevent ich entering my aquarium along with a new arrival. I understand well the ich cycle and feel there can be no downside to treating for ich as I introduce new fish. After the treatment period I would add activated carbon to filter to remove the copper. If you believe this is not a good idea please tell me why and please be specific. Thank You
  8. Recently i bought a clown for a nano 8 gallon aquarium i made, but recently i have seen some little spots on him, i have it for 2 days now, ammonia is on 0, nitrate 0, and nitrite 0 too, he is on 24-25 Celsius, and he hasnt eat too much yet, he just eat some frozen brine shrimp, im not that afraid of the eating issue, i had a pair that eat on the 5th day i got them, but im really worried about this spots i saw on him, i try to take a photo, this is the best ones i got. Im new to the hobby, i just got one 20 gallon FOWLR tank with 2 clowns and a firefish, and i didnt have these issues with them. Thank you in advance for the help 😞
  9. So my 20g tank just finished cycling a few days ago. On Sunday I went and got a pair of clownfish. Monday morning I noticed small white spots on both. Needless to say, i believe it's ich. I didnt QT them (i dont even have a QT tank, but I definitely will in the future), just acclimated and dropped em in. I'm reading about running the tank fallow for 76 days, but my question is what should be my course of action? Is that best with a small tank? I only have a hermit and snail in the tank, no coral yet. Most likely I will have 4-5 total fish, so what would you do??
  10. Jake6193

    What is this on my yellow tang??

    I’ve had my yellow tang for about 4 months and he’s been doing great. We have a kole tang, tomato clown, and two small clownfish and of course our yellow tang. We’ve recently moved out 90 gallon tank from upstairs to downstairs and put all of them in a tank to keep them there until we put them back in the 90. The 90 is all set up and everything is good, but I’ve noticed some extremely small brown spots near my yellow tangs eyes, going down his head. It’s not white, or black so I don’t know what this could be!! If someone could please respond I would greatly appreciate it!!!
  11. So I did a water change yesterday and siphoned our the sand a little. I did my best to make sure sand wasn’t covering any of the coral but missed a spot on the open brain. My cleaner shrimp was on an area of the coral and I saw some sand on the coral so I moved the sand and found a black spot. Did I just ruin my open brain? tried my best to get a pic but the blue lights can be tricky.
  12. I got home today to find my Wyoming White fish with a white speck near its mouth. I sat there and examined the rest of its body to trey to detect any other speck since its mostly white itÂ’s a little hard to tell but it seems that the one near his mouth is the only one. I have another clownfish that shows no signs of ich as well as a yellow watchman goby. I do have a 10 gallon tank but have no equipment for it. Not even a light. At the moment I canÂ’t afford to buy the equipment so my question is, is there a good way to test him without a quarantine tank. What IÂ’m thinking is soaking the fish pallets with garlic and seeing if itÂ’ll ride out on its own with the fish gaining a stronger immune system. I also heard vitamin C would help too but donÂ’t know how people soak the pallets with that, if you can give me some tips on that too I would grately appreciate it. I just tested the water and have been testing frequently and my levels are all fine, I do regular water changes. The clownish is eating very well, as a matter of fact heÂ’s the first to go For the food. He doesnÂ’t seem to be rubbing himself or anything other than the white speck heÂ’s demonstrating normal healthy behavior.  If the garlic doesnÂ’t work I will try to gather the funds for a quarantine tank as soon as I can to treat with copper but donÂ’t know how long that will be. IÂ’ve also been reading about freshwater dips but IÂ’m not sure if theyÂ’re too risky. Does anyone have any experience with that??  Please help with any advice you can give!!!  Â
  13. Hey everyone! I just noticed some "flaking" on my oldest clownfish and i'm really nervous! i dont want to lose her, what does she have?! I have posted a pic so everyone can see. water parameters: ammonia 0 nitrite 0 nitrate 5~ i recently changed salts (if that matters) i did a 20% water change. I was using aqua forest, and now i changed to frits rpm. please help! I really want to act fast in hopes of saving her. Last night, i fed her and she ate no problem. Its only been 1 day that i've seen this flaking of her scales on her (its on her right side). I added some stress guard that i had in hopes of calming her down and healing abit until i can find out what i really need to do! thanks
  14. Hey, noticed a big red pinkish spot on the side of my blenny today. anyone have ideas? How should I treat?
  15. Three months ago I bought some gumdrop Coral Crouchers and I decided this time around to do everything as "right" as I could. I have been Quarantining my fish for the past year. I used my frag tank as the Quarantine site for my Gumdrops as there was live food available to them in there - such as tiny shrimp like things. I figured they would fare a better chance in there with that along with subsidised feeding - I had to train them to eat frozen. So at the end of the month I was considering to add them to display, but when I took them out I noticed small white spots. UH OH! ICH! What I had done was add a couple snails to the tank during their quarantine - without thinking - New lesson learned - quarantine everything. My frag tank does not have the best light so not all corals can do well in there. So I cannot treat that tank with anything (as it is a frag), but after some googling, hyposaline seemed to be okay, if i kept it at 1.009 (I think that was the numbers) So I put the gums into the hospital tank and immediately dropped it to 1.009. They did not have the spots at this time, so I was banking on I left the issue behind in the frag tank. Due to the hypo conditions, I had to seriously feed these guys and well they were still being a bit difficult about accepting frozen. I had to deal with my PH and alk swinging everywhere too. Due to fearing for their lives due to lack of available food at the third week I started to increase the tank from Hypo to display conditions. Ordinarily I would have kept them in the hospital for two weeks to a month after to observe, but I felt like they would starve. I decided to risk it and put them into the display as soon as the parameters matched. That was a month ago - actually about a month and a half. SO far, no one has developed any disease and the gumdrops are still doing okay. Where they hide means I can feed them only once a day - since the corals they hang out in (trumpet and hammer) are full and fluffy during light hours. What I am saying is, Quarantine - and observe, and treat if necessary - preventive treatment is okay too. But I did not bring in the disease into my display. It may be good to also quarantine the inverts as well - if that was the case of the ich getting in on snail shells. This to me was proof that Quarantine and hypo worked and it should be adopted by everyone. Just keep an extra tank, heater, and filter handy.
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