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  1. 8 days ago I put live sand, live rock, and a premixed saltwater into my 24 gallon tank. It has a built in sump in the back with various media and a skimmer. I have been regularly testing salinity, ph, ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, and alkalinity. PH always reading between 7.8 and 8.0 ammonia hasn’t budged from .25ppm nitrate and nitrite are both 0 alkalinity at 180 I noticed my salinity was low which surprised me since the water came from my local fish store. I played around, taking about half a gallon out and adding more concentrated mix of Red Sea salt and regular RO water. It’s at 1.0235 Per the advice of someone at the fish store I added chemi pure elite to my filtration media tonight. What am I missing here? Should I put a piece of raw shrimp in there? Am I just being impatient? I didn’t expect my tank to be cycled already, just some noticeable changes in ammonia at least. Any suggestions?
  2. Azreil13

    Azreil's Aquarium Journal

    So. I ended up going to a few pet stores today. I couldn't actually find a 2.5 gallon tank in stock or the EVO I was looking for. But, I did end up with a 5.5 gallon. Just waiting for the sand to settle and i'll post a picture!
  3. Hi Folks, I'm currently in the cycling process of my Red Sea Reefer 170. This is my third tank. I started this tank with BRS Dry Rock, and live sand from BRS. I added a shrimp 3-4 days ago. It's beginning to disintegrate in my filter sock, still no ammonia readings. I added a small live rock and some chaeto yesterday. Before adding shrimp I began with Red Sea Mature Pro cycling kit however my readings using API & Salifert show to be 0 on everything Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite. This is after seven days... 77.3 *F 8.17 ph 34.2 salt 233 ORP Visually, the tank looks clean. No signs of diatoms. Where the $#%* is my ammonia haha?! Either this tank is cycling very efficiently and it's undetectable or Red Sea's Mature Pro cycling kit is pure snake oil. Prove me wrong. What to do next... Edit: I added the live sand and dry rock one week before beginning the cycling product from Red Sea.
  4. They came on my live rock. Are they problematic? If not, how do I keep them alive? Are they going to die as my tank cycles? Thanks!!
  5. I started my new reef tank earlier this week (a fluval evo 13.5) and I added live rock, live sand (about 1.5 inches), and premium reef saltwater that my LFS mixed up for me. I’ve also been adding fluval cycle concentrated biological booster at the rate they suggest for a new tank. I have some questions regarding cycling. A lot of the videos I have watched online suggest first adding live rock, sand, and water, the next week adding a clean up crew, and then once the cycle is completed to add fish. However I’ve spoken on the phone with three of my LFSs and all three have told me to start my cycle by adding a fish. There is a lot of conflicting information out there, I was hoping that you guys could weigh in and give me some pros and cons with each option. If I decide to cycle with a fish, can I add a banggai cardinal fish? Additionally, when can I add coral?? This tank is primarily for coral, i'm just adding a fish or two for fun. A lot of articles that I have read say that I can add my coral now if I want, and that they won't be impacted by my tank cycling. Is this true? Lastly, if anyone has some suggestions on easy to care for corals, i'm always happy for more suggestions. Thanks so much!
  6. hey guys, started cycling almost 2 months now. i used dr tims fishless method with dry rock and dry sand . i may have overdosed ammonia on the 1st time and dosed too soon for the 2nd, misread the instructions. (my bad) . (never got to measure my real water volume too) got a nitrite spike. did a water change once or twice. after a couple of weeks added some marine pure spheres and added one more bottle of dr tims. nitrites just kept sky high, even bought a second set of test kits just to be sure. (1st API then Salifert) then i read i could do a almost 100% water change and bacteria would still be there, which i did, and dosed a little bit less of the recommended ammonia dosage. now im sure there is bacteria present because tests detected presence of ammonia then none after a couple of days. but now my nitrites are skyhigh again. should i just leave it be or do daily small water changes? i'm also trying to break in my santa monica ats 22 hrs a day schedule.so far, a week or so later no algae growth. i also have my display lights on a schedule. no algae growth also. any thoughts? thanks
  7. My ammonia has been a 0.0 for the past two days, and this morning my nitrites were also 0.0. Of course nitrates were sky high so I did a 75% water change, and lowered it to 10-15. My pH is at 8.2. Does it seem like my tank is done cycling? If it is, this may be a stupid question ,but do I have a certain amount of time to add livestock before the nitrifying bacteria start to die off?
  8. Having had my Biocube 32 running for almost week without an ammonia spike, I resolved to "jump start" the process by buying ammonia and live bacteria from my LFS, and adding it to my tank, following the instructions. I will test my water soon to make sure the initial spike has happened, but my question is, do I need to continue adding a small amount of ammonia everyday to make sure the bacteria has something to feed on? Or is that not necessary? Sorry is this is a rookie question but i'm still most certainly a newbie and am just curious what the best course of action is.
  9. Hey guys I’m almost a week into cycling my 10 gallon. I have 10 pounds dry rock and 10 lbs or live sand. I added some Dr. Tim’s ammonia as well as some nitrifying bacteria to jump start the tank. Everyday I’ve been testing ammonia, Nitrite, and pH. I’ve noticed small bubbles on my dry rock, today I came home to see a lot more than yesterday.. should I be worried?
  10. Hey guys so my tank has just finished cycling after 5 weeks.. Now I have a few questions.. My tank has 0ppm ammonia, 0ppm nitrite, and rougly 5-7ppm nitrates, I did a 70% water change and was curious how long I should wait before adding the clean up crew? Also.. while my tank was cycling I developed some red slim algae, should I be worried? Another question I have is: In my aquarium I have a very coarse sand (my tank is a 10gallon cube) the return pump I have is at 125gph and does a good job of keeping the bottom free of detritus, I have a power head that is at 257gph and it makes the tank a sand storm.. Do i need a power head for corals and keeping a healthy tank with the current return pump?? And last question.. In the 10 gallon tank I understand its 1 fish per 5 gal. Im curious if I got 2 fish, 5 nassarius snails, 10 hermits, and possibly a skunk shrimp? I appreciate you guys taking the time to read through my questions. I'm very excited to get in the hobby! Thanks in advance guys!
  11. So...just set up everything last night. Rocks, sand, RODI, filter floss only in the media rack.... Poured the whole bottle of BioSpira into the tank, put some pure ammonium chloride (literally a pinch approximating 1/10 tsp), and let it swirl overnight. Tested this morning showing 4+ppm of Ammonia, 0 nitrites and didn't bother testing for nitrates. Came home from work and ran the full set of tests...and I am pleased to report that my tank is already showing signs of cycling... Temp at 81F Salinity ticked up to 1.027 pH at 8.1 Ammonia down to 2ppm Nitrites at 5ppm Nitrates at 40ppm Is it normal to see levels change this quickly? Plan to let this keep cooking....let me know if any of you advise anything else (e.g. partial water change)
  12. anniebanana267

    Damsel and Chromis questions

    Hello, I’m cycling my tank and the ammonia’s ranging between 2-4 ppm. I bought a damsel fish and a chromis from my local fish store because the worker said they were hardy and would be fine through the cycle. I purchased a bottle of “complete bioculture - for establishing biological filtration and rapidly improving water quality in all marine and freshwater aquaria”. I also purchased a small container of fish pellets. Picture of both included. I just want to make sure I’m doing everything right. Please help! (I also have a trochus snail, 2 stomatella snails, and a baby peppermint shrimp.)
  13. Hallo forum! Finally got the Fluval Evo 13.5 and I'm trying to make a plan for getting it up and cycling while I'm waiting to be able to afford, you know, sand, rocks, a powerhead, salt, RO/DI unit, ha ha ha (crying) After consideration I want to go with dry sand and dry pukani rock rather than start with live, and then I get a bit confused with overthinking. Should I cure the pukani before adding it to the tank and then cycling the tank? Or should I take advantage of the dead matter in the pukani to help me cycle the tank? I've read that you shouldn't cure rock in the DT? I AM leaning towards curing the rock and then adding it to the tank to then cycle the tank, just so that I can be thorough and make sure everything is clean and stable from the ground up - I don't mind waiting around so much because saving money for each little bit is going to be a slow process for me, plus I like to make sure I have everything laid out from scratch. That said, I don't want to do everything twice if I don't have to. I'm not THAT patient. Another point that I'm not sure about is this: when I've cycled FW tanks in the past I've always used done so by dosing 4ppm 'pure' ammonia and testing from there. It's taken some time but it's always given me a good cycle and a stable BB culture at the end of it. Reading about dry rock cycling online, I've only really seen the 'dead shrimp' method, which, no. I just wanted to find out if I can cycle a dry sand/dry rock tank with the pukani by dosing with bottled bacteria and then feeding with 'pure' ammonia, and if so, what ppm would be needed. I've seen 4ppm and 2ppm recommended? I like to get a large culture of BB going, esp because I think I might be on the heavy side of stocked at the end of it (I'll be using a mini fuge with chaeto and copepods and won't be using a protein skimmer so) I'd love to hear your input, especially from anyone who's done the above before, and if anyone can let me know on curing the pukani before and out of the tank or in the tank while it cycles I'd really appreciate it Thanks for your help nano forum!
  14. I started a Biocube 29g in March and almost as soon as I had it setup I wanted something a little bigger. We've all been there I decided that a 40 breeder would be a good size in an apartment, and got to work getting the pieces together. I've gotten everything ready now except the tank itself ! Weighing a few final local options. I'm not in a rush so I want to do things right. I started cycling some old live rock that had been sitting dry in the heat for 6+ months. I placed it in a tub with 1.025 saltwater, a cobalt accutherm 250w, and maxijet 400. Dosed to ~10ppm ammonia (Trying it high again after my first tank cycle went so well). I probably should have washed the rock off but I'll do a 100% water transfer before putting it into the tank later on. Currently it has been cycling for 2 weeks. I tested a very small nitrite presence 2 days ago and did a 30% water change with 5g from my Biocube. Nitrites are now at .75 and rising. Once the ammonia is completely processed I'll do the 100% and redose a small amount until I have the tank I want. edit: tested this morning 10/08/17: What do the nitrates look like? I am partially colorblind and the purples are hard for me.
  15. I picked up two bins of dry, old live rock that I want to start prepping for the future. I already have a batch of rock cycled for the 40g breeder I am building now. But I imagine I will want to upgrade even bigger in a year or so. I'd like to do everything right so I'm taking my plan to the forums before enacting it. 1st Stage - Cleaning 2nd - Phosphate Removal 3rd - Cycling 4th - Coralline Growth 1st: Cleaning will involve washing the rock off and scrubbing any old life that I can find. Bleach or vinegar solutions seem to be a common choice. 2nd: I am already using Lanthanum Chloride to remove phosphates on my cycled rock, I believe I will use this to remove it from this new batch. So far it has been working well. And it seems to be the most efficient method, combined with large water changes. 3rd: I prefer to do Cycling fishless, so I will be using a janitor's solution to provide ammonia to the bacteria. I want to get it heavily seeded and will dose ammonia multiple times to build up the bacteria 4th: Coralline Growth, what may be the hardest stage. If I could do everything I want, I would culture some coralline in its own aquarium first in order to get a clean sample. Probably won't have the resources to do that and will just scrape some from one of my tanks. I will also be adding a CUC to manage other algae during this ~1year process of growing out the coralline. The algae starter and CUC will be the first possible entrances of pests and something I would like to work on. Did I mess any secret techniques or is this a pretty solid plan?
  16. Menidia

    Moving up

    A few years ago I started here and got lots of great information on my 20 gallon fish only, which I greatly appreciate! I did something very stupid about 6 months ago when I failed to quarantine a new banggai cardinal and my 4 year old clownfish died of amlyoodinium. I felt and still feel very bad about that. I kind of lost interest for a while but still took care of the cardinal who pulled through and has tripled in size. Anyways I decided to upgrade to a 75 gallon, though I have a few questions: If I move the existing live rock, sand (also started running an AquaClear with some ceramic media again a few months ago, move that too) will the tank be "cycled enough" to move the banggai over immediately? I'm using dry base rock. Is a 75 gallon big enough for a coral beauty angelfish or a flame angelfish? I've been looking around and have seen some yes's and no's, but not much explanation. I have no corals in this tank so nipping won't be an issue. My ideal stock would be a pair of ocellaris clowns, my banggai cardinal, a dwarf angelfish, and maybe two or so more fish under 4". Any suggestions? Just needs to be cleaner shrimp friendly. Thank you for any advice!
  17. (Original Post and replies below...) So I've performed two 3 gallon water changes and have brought my nitrates down to 20ppm. I plan on doing a few more to get them down below 10ppm or less. Starting to see hair algae on the live rock. Because of the holiday weekend I am not planning on adding the clean up crew until the following weekend as I would like to be home when adding livestock. Question is, should I add something in the interim to feed the bacteria or should i just leave things as they are? Hello all, Shawn from Connecticut here. New to the forum and have been having a lot of fun browsing through all the posts! I have been keeping fish for well over 20 years (mostly fresh) and my current main tank in the house is a 65 gallon African Cichlid tank. Not a total noob in the marine world as I have had a couple of small tanks in past. I just set up a Fluval Evo 13.5 a little over a week ago (11/5/17) and am currently cycling. I am used to cycling freshwater tanks...Ammonia spike, Nitrite spike, Nitrates up, water change, add fish. I'm a little rusty on the reef side. On the Evo....stock lighting and pump. 50w heater added along with an In-Tank basket in the center chamber just running floss in the bottom for now. 1.5 inches of live sand (about 15lbs) and 17lbs of cured live rock. I started the cycle by adding a raw dinner shrimp and kept the lights off until Sunday 11/12/17 and am now keeping the lights on for 10 hours/day. Current parameters: pH: 8.0 Alk: 9dKH Calc: 360 ppm Salinity: 1.026 Ammonia: 0 Nitrite: 0 Nitrate: around 80ppm! (pic attached) No algae or diatom growth yet. Tiny tube worms just opened up today on one of the rocks but no other critters that I can detect. Where am I at at this point and what should be my next steps? Should the nitrates be this high at this stage? Any comments or advice appreciated!
  18. bbetta

    Ready Yet?

    Hello everyone! I’ve been in the FW hobby for more than a decade and these are my first steps to SW tanks. My 20G has been cycling for two weeks now. I started out with 2.5kg (5.5 pounds) dead rock and added about 0.5 kg (1.1 pounds) of LR the second week. Equipment includes a 2000l/h wavemaker, a 500l/h canister filter filled with carbon and phosphate absorbent , and a 75w heater - no skimmer yet. I’ve been using live bacteria from Aquaforest and I’ve been adding 1-2 pellets every 3-4 days to help with the cycle. I’ve got 0 Ammonia and Nitrites, around 5-10 ppm Nitrates. There’s a thing that looks like a small feather duster on the LR along with something like a spaghetti worm, and they both seem to be fine. Do you think the tank’s ready for the first fish (2 Ocellaris Clownfish)? I’d do a 30% WC before adding anything to the tank. Here’s an FTS before I added the LR. Thanks
  19. I'm Batman

    CaribSea Rubble Zone question

    I bought this CaribSea Rubble Zone to attach frags to and something just dawned on me... I'm wondering if this is going to cause a cycle by putting these directly in the water without turning these into live rocks. Ive had traumatic experiences adding live rock to my tank from other people's tanks, but the dry rock like on BRS I know you're supposed to "cycle" or "cook" by letting them develop their biology before adding to the tank. If I glue a frag onto one of these and place it in my 20g, what kind of reactions can I expect? PH imbalance? A complete crash? Any input is always welcome and much appreciated
  20. Lugmos12

    Ammonia dosing

    How much ammonia should I dose for Fluval EVO 13G with live rock and sand? I'm going to use bacteria and (from what i know they need a food source), which is where the ammonia comes in.
  21. Hello, I am cycling my first nano tank, which is a fluval sea evo 13.5. I've got 12 lbs of LR, 10 lbs of live sand, and 5 lbs of regular sand. I went to the fish store yesterday to pick up a test kit and a few other small things, and the worker gave me advice on cycling the tank. He told me to put in 2 damsels, which he said are hardy enough to take the cycling okay (after coming home and researching I have found that this is not advisable). He also gave me a bag of water from the tanks at the store that was super dirty (very very brown). He told me this would provide enough to kick the cycle and allow for the good bacteria to build up off eating it. I put that dirty water in the tank, and acclimated the damsels and put them in as well. It has been 24 hrs since I put these in, and I'm still getting perfect readings. The tank has been up for 4 days, so I figured between the LR/LS and the damsels and gross water I should be getting some ammonia reading. But it's still zero. Why is that? Also, I would love to hear you guys opinion on this guys method. Should I just return the damsels and not use them in the cycle? And if the dirty water is not something I should have put in the tank? should I drain all the water in the tank and just restart and fill it back with new r/o water? I was skeptical on putting the dirty water in the tank, but this guy seemed to know more then me. My water is already crystal clear again with good readings. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
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