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Found 30 results

  1. DaveMc

    Skimmer while cycling

    Afternoon everyone, Been out of reefing for a couple years now due to some life changes. Getting ready to finally start a new nano AIO tank. The tank I purchased I also got the skimmer fr the back chamber. Is it wish to run the protein skimmer during cycling or wait until it is a little more established? With older tanks I use to have I never put the skimmer in/on until after the cycle and live stock was added. Any assistance would be awesome. Many thanks
  2. Join Matthew of My First Fish Tank to cover everything that you need to know about Reef Sand. Feel free to explore more of The Ultimate Beginner Series along with hundreds of other videos on our Marine Depot YouTube Channel.
  3. Phycostatic

    Cycling Help Needed for Pico

    As the title says, I need help cycling my pico tank. I messed up the original cycle by removing every last bit of phosphate somehow, so I tried to add it back by putting some dry fish flakes in. The problem now is that, within roughly 12 hours, the food disappeared, Nitrates spiked, ammonia stayed at 0.5, and nitrites at nearly 2. However, the phosphates did not increase in the slightest bit. I only dosed two things in that time period: aquavitro's remediation (since there was a lot of seemingly organic things floating around) and Seachem's prime (to see if it would help the ammonia level). I have been adding Seachem's stability as well, but not within the 12-hour period that the food was in the tank. Also, I used live sand and live rock in the tank set up, and it's still in there of course. I'll upload a picture of my test results here so anyone may be able to interpret them. They look a little lighter in person, so consider that bit. I also increased the temp to about 82 to help with the bacteria effectiveness. Is that wrong? Did that throw off the whole cycle again? Also, any ideas what happened with the flakes? From left to right (not considering depth) is: ph - ~8 | Nitrates - ~40 | Ammonia - ~0.5 | KH - ~14 | Phosphates - 0.00 | Nitrites - ~2.0 Edit: Just did about a 50% w/c and ammonia dropped properly to about 0.1. Nitrites are at 0.4. The phosphates are actually at 0.1 roughly, I believe. Nitrates are at 20 now, KH at 12. I plan on getting my water digitally tested today, so I'll come back later with those results.
  4. Hello nano-reef community I recently made my dream transition from fresh to saltwater. My setup is a 14gallon (52L) IM peninsula with dry rock and live sand on day 34. The current equipment on the tank is an ato, biopure gems and recently added my skimmer to begin nutrient export and breaking it in. Lighting also got turned on recently for 6hrs a day, AI Prime 16hd. I am also running floss right now. I also make my own ro/di water and there is also no fish yet. Cycled with Dr.Tims+Ammonia and supplemented with microbacter7. Also covered the tank for 3 weeks with lowered salinity and raised temp to grow the beneficial bacteria. Levels: NH3/4: 0 N02: 0.25 N03: 10 Phosphate: 0.0 My question is about identifying the growth that is on my entire tank(-sand)(it was on the glass but recently cleaned it, doesnt look malicious but i want to know if i should take action. Some forums i have found suggest it might simply be the bacteria, as it is slimy to the touch. Or that it might be bryozoans or foram, or possibly hydroids. They are invisible until you get close, they are tiny white growths that move in the water flow, i will attach some images and a video. Have I just been successful in colonizing the bacteria (and it will die off with time and scavenging) or is this a pest i should take action against?
  5. Hello, I am semi new to this hobby. I started a few years ago when I purchased used aquariums in Hawaii. The cycling process had already been completed and I just had to learn to maintain the fish. This time I’m starting new. Years down the line after I had let go of the tanks and move with the army. Now I’m back and I want to learn all I can about cycling my tank. I have a 32 gal coralife BioCube. I thought since the sump was already built in it wouldn’t be too much of a problem to get started back up. So far the tank has been put together with carab sea arag live-sand and life rock. I have done lots of research on what’s best to help jump start the cycle. I also added This Fritz-Zyme turbo start bacteria. The only thing is I’m still confused on what media I’m supposed to use. I seen a bunch of in tank videos and love to watch BRS. But I feel like they only tell you about what to use after the cycling is complete so what type of media do you use? I’m pretty sure the media I am using is for after the tank is cycled. Right now I have chemi-pure elite and Purigen in media bags my sump I also bought a comline doc 9000 skimmer but I’m not running it right now. What should I use to cycle with and do I keep my skimmer off like I have been doing? My parameters have not really changed except for my nitrites which went up to .50 and it’s been about a week. PH Range 8.2 Ammonia .50ppm Nitrite 0 Nitrate 10ppm
  6. FishPolice275

    Noob with a cube

    Just another Salt noob with a biocube I haven't had an aquarium for 10+ years, but I'm ready to get back in the game. Had plenty of freshwater setups, so I want to give salt a go this time. I decided to start with a biocube 32, with the hope of some day starting a 150 G + tank. I have been reading forums and watching YouTube for weeks, and I finally got my cube started on Monday night (June 29 2020). I may have bought more than I needed right away, but I figure why not start with a few extra bells and whistles. I live about 3.5 hours from any salt shop, so I am pretty much figuring all this out online. I started the cycle with API quick start and a couple small pieces of Argentina Red shrimp (it's what I had in the freezer). The ammonia is starting to rise and I can see some small white hairs growing on the live rock piece. No immediate questions at this moment, but I am sure to come up with some here soon. For now I will post my set up and a few pics. Let me know if you see any problems here. Biocube 32 LED Home built stand - Walnut with Koa stain. (I have a young child, so I needed something extra sturdy - not the stock junk) Aquatic Life twist in RO/DI system CaribSea Alive Special grade sand 20# Natures Own 40# coral base rock (amazon stuff) - Two huge chucks, broke one up into smaller pieces. I swapped a few pounds of the dry with one live rock hunk from a shop to help seed the rest. Instant Ocean sea salt Jebao OW-25 Wavemaker w/controller (currently running at about half power on wave setting 2) RFG random flow generator InTank Media basket - Only running some filter floss at the moment, but I have chemi blue for later, as well as a small LED light/timer - with chaeto coming once the cycle is complete. Tunze 9001 skimmer - It's in the tank next to the media basket but not running yet, waiting until the cycle finishes Eheim Jager 100w heater, running through a inkbird digital thermostat w/ sensor AutoAqua Smart ATO - hooked up to a 4g portable water container Salinity refractometer API saltwater test kit API reef test kit Python vacuum Biocube algae magnet and some other random things.... 7/1 - Day 2 stats Ammonia between .5 and 1 Nitrite - 0 Nitrate - 0 PH - 8.0 Salinity 1.022 Temp 79
  7. Jmach08

    New Reefer- BioCube 16

    Hello everybody, I’m looking for help/advice in setting up a brand new nano reef tank. So I allowed my daughter to bring some hermit crabs home from Florida and turns out they were marine thin stripe crabs. After much groaning, I find a Fluval 13.5 online and it arrives broken. I’ve already had these crabs is a makeshift container for over a week so I bought a Coralife BioCube 16 from a local fish store at a great price. I set up the cube last night with Arag-Alive Bahama sand and Imagitarium Pacific Ocean water and set the crabs inside. This morning the water has cleared up and I have some CaribSea life rock coming today. The heater is working well and has the water at 80 degrees. I tested the water and got the following with my API master saltwater kit. PH: 7.9 Amonia: .25-.50 Nitrite: 0 Nitrate: 0 Is this normal? Do I need to add any of these additives I see? Thanks in advance. Any feedback is greatly appreciated.
  8. bruinhd

    9 gallon Pico LPS Reef

    Alright guys. I've been out of the hobby for 8 years and was fully inactive. I had been doing pico reef tanks in grad school and then sold off everything when I moved out-of-date. Now I'm married, employed, and ready to get back into the hobby. This time around, I am remembering all of the things I used to do wrong. I'm building a 5g pico reef that will be very low tech and minimalist. I will focus on biostability over filtration whenever possible. I got a Fluval Evo V tank. I'm upgrading the stock pump to an MJ 606 (180gph). I'm going to avoid any more power than that because my old experience was that it stressed fish out and I had jumpers, etc. I'm avoiding an electronic ATO because I once had one overflow and It was no bueno. I also just hate having wires everywhere. In my photo you can see that I have a gravity evian bottle ATO that works perfectly. There's a 100 watt Aqueon preset heater in the back. I have a custom glass cover with rubber risers to allow gas exchange and to limit evaporative losses. I found that a 4-5mm gap also avoids condensation buildup on the lid from the heat of the light source (also learned from experience). The glass piece was cut at Ace Hardware and cost $11 total for the glass and risers. I got some live rock from my local LFS Golden Aquarium In Chicago. I'm on day 4 and my ammonia level has been chilling at 0.25 for 2 days and I'm starting to register a little bit of nitrite so cycling is underway. I might keep filtration very low tech. Probably just carbon once soft corals go in. I'm planning just a juvenile clown and a small cleaner shrimp once everything is established. There is one nasarius snail and an emerald crab that hitchhiked in the middle of the big live rock. The emerald crab emerged yesterday I assume because it was sick from the cycle and died almost immediately. The snail feasted on his corpse today. I hope the snail survives the cycle. I am certain he is stressed. Im going to say one more controversial thing. I used to do all my top-offs with RO/DI. However I'm going to be adventurous this time around and do them with....tap water. I checked parameters on my tap water yesterday and found the following: CaCO3 hardness: zero (impressively) Chlorine: zero (shockingly) Carbonate ppm: zero Alkalinity ppm: 120 pH: 7.2 Ammonia, nitrite, nitrates all zero as well of course. Hit me with your thoughts. And thank you for visiting.
  9. Hi everyone, My name is Baptiste, i’ve been in freshwater aquarium since a while now and wanting to start a pico reef, i heard this is not ideal to start with a pico but as i had a Dymax iq5 i wanted to give a try :). Before that i’ve been researching a lot, watching videos, reading books and forum ... I bought a RODI filter set it up and tried it, all good. Come the time to buy sand, live rocks and salt. So i went to the nearest store (30mins drive) and bought all. When i came back home, i realised i forgot to buy salt so i decided to go back quickly but took time. My live rocks were in a bag closed at home without water. When back home, i started setup everything but took me at least 2h. So basically the live rocks were sitting during 3-3.5h in bag without water. I setup the aquarium, water at 1.025 ppm salinity, temperature 26degrees and i have a small protein skimmer wich i start it. 2 Days after, the water got very cloudy and the aquarium was smelling really bad like rotten eggs . A lot of worms and little shrimps died from the rocks. i’ve searched online to fix it and saw i needed to cure the live rocks to eliminate the died and start again the cycle. I cured it in a bucket closed with a pump during one week and after one week rocks were not smelling anymore and water was pretty clear. I’ve decided then to start again the cycle and put everything back in the aquarium. So here we are, it’s been 4 days since i’ve started again and my live rocks doesn’t look normal ... Again i’m a beginner so maybe everything is ok but i haven’t seen anything like that on internet ... i’ve done 1 water test and got : 1.0 ppm Ammonia 0.25 ppm Nitrite 0 ppm Nitrate 8.2 PH I haven’t done any other test as i don’t think it matters now ... Do you think my live rocks are dead and will never cycle ? Should i buy new one or wait and see ? Thanks for your advices :) Baptiste Ps: Sorry for the picture not the right side :/
  10. 8 days ago I put live sand, live rock, and a premixed saltwater into my 24 gallon tank. It has a built in sump in the back with various media and a skimmer. I have been regularly testing salinity, ph, ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, and alkalinity. PH always reading between 7.8 and 8.0 ammonia hasn’t budged from .25ppm nitrate and nitrite are both 0 alkalinity at 180 I noticed my salinity was low which surprised me since the water came from my local fish store. I played around, taking about half a gallon out and adding more concentrated mix of Red Sea salt and regular RO water. It’s at 1.0235 Per the advice of someone at the fish store I added chemi pure elite to my filtration media tonight. What am I missing here? Should I put a piece of raw shrimp in there? Am I just being impatient? I didn’t expect my tank to be cycled already, just some noticeable changes in ammonia at least. Any suggestions?
  11. Azreil13

    Azreil's Aquarium Journal

    So. I ended up going to a few pet stores today. I couldn't actually find a 2.5 gallon tank in stock or the EVO I was looking for. But, I did end up with a 5.5 gallon. Just waiting for the sand to settle and i'll post a picture!
  12. Hi Folks, I'm currently in the cycling process of my Red Sea Reefer 170. This is my third tank. I started this tank with BRS Dry Rock, and live sand from BRS. I added a shrimp 3-4 days ago. It's beginning to disintegrate in my filter sock, still no ammonia readings. I added a small live rock and some chaeto yesterday. Before adding shrimp I began with Red Sea Mature Pro cycling kit however my readings using API & Salifert show to be 0 on everything Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite. This is after seven days... 77.3 *F 8.17 ph 34.2 salt 233 ORP Visually, the tank looks clean. No signs of diatoms. Where the $#%* is my ammonia haha?! Either this tank is cycling very efficiently and it's undetectable or Red Sea's Mature Pro cycling kit is pure snake oil. Prove me wrong. What to do next... Edit: I added the live sand and dry rock one week before beginning the cycling product from Red Sea.
  13. They came on my live rock. Are they problematic? If not, how do I keep them alive? Are they going to die as my tank cycles? Thanks!!
  14. I started my new reef tank earlier this week (a fluval evo 13.5) and I added live rock, live sand (about 1.5 inches), and premium reef saltwater that my LFS mixed up for me. I’ve also been adding fluval cycle concentrated biological booster at the rate they suggest for a new tank. I have some questions regarding cycling. A lot of the videos I have watched online suggest first adding live rock, sand, and water, the next week adding a clean up crew, and then once the cycle is completed to add fish. However I’ve spoken on the phone with three of my LFSs and all three have told me to start my cycle by adding a fish. There is a lot of conflicting information out there, I was hoping that you guys could weigh in and give me some pros and cons with each option. If I decide to cycle with a fish, can I add a banggai cardinal fish? Additionally, when can I add coral?? This tank is primarily for coral, i'm just adding a fish or two for fun. A lot of articles that I have read say that I can add my coral now if I want, and that they won't be impacted by my tank cycling. Is this true? Lastly, if anyone has some suggestions on easy to care for corals, i'm always happy for more suggestions. Thanks so much!
  15. hey guys, started cycling almost 2 months now. i used dr tims fishless method with dry rock and dry sand . i may have overdosed ammonia on the 1st time and dosed too soon for the 2nd, misread the instructions. (my bad) . (never got to measure my real water volume too) got a nitrite spike. did a water change once or twice. after a couple of weeks added some marine pure spheres and added one more bottle of dr tims. nitrites just kept sky high, even bought a second set of test kits just to be sure. (1st API then Salifert) then i read i could do a almost 100% water change and bacteria would still be there, which i did, and dosed a little bit less of the recommended ammonia dosage. now im sure there is bacteria present because tests detected presence of ammonia then none after a couple of days. but now my nitrites are skyhigh again. should i just leave it be or do daily small water changes? i'm also trying to break in my santa monica ats 22 hrs a day schedule.so far, a week or so later no algae growth. i also have my display lights on a schedule. no algae growth also. any thoughts? thanks
  16. My ammonia has been a 0.0 for the past two days, and this morning my nitrites were also 0.0. Of course nitrates were sky high so I did a 75% water change, and lowered it to 10-15. My pH is at 8.2. Does it seem like my tank is done cycling? If it is, this may be a stupid question ,but do I have a certain amount of time to add livestock before the nitrifying bacteria start to die off?
  17. Having had my Biocube 32 running for almost week without an ammonia spike, I resolved to "jump start" the process by buying ammonia and live bacteria from my LFS, and adding it to my tank, following the instructions. I will test my water soon to make sure the initial spike has happened, but my question is, do I need to continue adding a small amount of ammonia everyday to make sure the bacteria has something to feed on? Or is that not necessary? Sorry is this is a rookie question but i'm still most certainly a newbie and am just curious what the best course of action is.
  18. Hey guys I’m almost a week into cycling my 10 gallon. I have 10 pounds dry rock and 10 lbs or live sand. I added some Dr. Tim’s ammonia as well as some nitrifying bacteria to jump start the tank. Everyday I’ve been testing ammonia, Nitrite, and pH. I’ve noticed small bubbles on my dry rock, today I came home to see a lot more than yesterday.. should I be worried?
  19. Hey guys so my tank has just finished cycling after 5 weeks.. Now I have a few questions.. My tank has 0ppm ammonia, 0ppm nitrite, and rougly 5-7ppm nitrates, I did a 70% water change and was curious how long I should wait before adding the clean up crew? Also.. while my tank was cycling I developed some red slim algae, should I be worried? Another question I have is: In my aquarium I have a very coarse sand (my tank is a 10gallon cube) the return pump I have is at 125gph and does a good job of keeping the bottom free of detritus, I have a power head that is at 257gph and it makes the tank a sand storm.. Do i need a power head for corals and keeping a healthy tank with the current return pump?? And last question.. In the 10 gallon tank I understand its 1 fish per 5 gal. Im curious if I got 2 fish, 5 nassarius snails, 10 hermits, and possibly a skunk shrimp? I appreciate you guys taking the time to read through my questions. I'm very excited to get in the hobby! Thanks in advance guys!
  20. So...just set up everything last night. Rocks, sand, RODI, filter floss only in the media rack.... Poured the whole bottle of BioSpira into the tank, put some pure ammonium chloride (literally a pinch approximating 1/10 tsp), and let it swirl overnight. Tested this morning showing 4+ppm of Ammonia, 0 nitrites and didn't bother testing for nitrates. Came home from work and ran the full set of tests...and I am pleased to report that my tank is already showing signs of cycling... Temp at 81F Salinity ticked up to 1.027 pH at 8.1 Ammonia down to 2ppm Nitrites at 5ppm Nitrates at 40ppm Is it normal to see levels change this quickly? Plan to let this keep cooking....let me know if any of you advise anything else (e.g. partial water change)
  21. anniebanana267

    Damsel and Chromis questions

    Hello, I’m cycling my tank and the ammonia’s ranging between 2-4 ppm. I bought a damsel fish and a chromis from my local fish store because the worker said they were hardy and would be fine through the cycle. I purchased a bottle of “complete bioculture - for establishing biological filtration and rapidly improving water quality in all marine and freshwater aquaria”. I also purchased a small container of fish pellets. Picture of both included. I just want to make sure I’m doing everything right. Please help! (I also have a trochus snail, 2 stomatella snails, and a baby peppermint shrimp.)
  22. Hallo forum! Finally got the Fluval Evo 13.5 and I'm trying to make a plan for getting it up and cycling while I'm waiting to be able to afford, you know, sand, rocks, a powerhead, salt, RO/DI unit, ha ha ha (crying) After consideration I want to go with dry sand and dry pukani rock rather than start with live, and then I get a bit confused with overthinking. Should I cure the pukani before adding it to the tank and then cycling the tank? Or should I take advantage of the dead matter in the pukani to help me cycle the tank? I've read that you shouldn't cure rock in the DT? I AM leaning towards curing the rock and then adding it to the tank to then cycle the tank, just so that I can be thorough and make sure everything is clean and stable from the ground up - I don't mind waiting around so much because saving money for each little bit is going to be a slow process for me, plus I like to make sure I have everything laid out from scratch. That said, I don't want to do everything twice if I don't have to. I'm not THAT patient. Another point that I'm not sure about is this: when I've cycled FW tanks in the past I've always used done so by dosing 4ppm 'pure' ammonia and testing from there. It's taken some time but it's always given me a good cycle and a stable BB culture at the end of it. Reading about dry rock cycling online, I've only really seen the 'dead shrimp' method, which, no. I just wanted to find out if I can cycle a dry sand/dry rock tank with the pukani by dosing with bottled bacteria and then feeding with 'pure' ammonia, and if so, what ppm would be needed. I've seen 4ppm and 2ppm recommended? I like to get a large culture of BB going, esp because I think I might be on the heavy side of stocked at the end of it (I'll be using a mini fuge with chaeto and copepods and won't be using a protein skimmer so) I'd love to hear your input, especially from anyone who's done the above before, and if anyone can let me know on curing the pukani before and out of the tank or in the tank while it cycles I'd really appreciate it Thanks for your help nano forum!
  23. I started a Biocube 29g in March and almost as soon as I had it setup I wanted something a little bigger. We've all been there I decided that a 40 breeder would be a good size in an apartment, and got to work getting the pieces together. I've gotten everything ready now except the tank itself ! Weighing a few final local options. I'm not in a rush so I want to do things right. I started cycling some old live rock that had been sitting dry in the heat for 6+ months. I placed it in a tub with 1.025 saltwater, a cobalt accutherm 250w, and maxijet 400. Dosed to ~10ppm ammonia (Trying it high again after my first tank cycle went so well). I probably should have washed the rock off but I'll do a 100% water transfer before putting it into the tank later on. Currently it has been cycling for 2 weeks. I tested a very small nitrite presence 2 days ago and did a 30% water change with 5g from my Biocube. Nitrites are now at .75 and rising. Once the ammonia is completely processed I'll do the 100% and redose a small amount until I have the tank I want. edit: tested this morning 10/08/17: What do the nitrates look like? I am partially colorblind and the purples are hard for me.
  24. I picked up two bins of dry, old live rock that I want to start prepping for the future. I already have a batch of rock cycled for the 40g breeder I am building now. But I imagine I will want to upgrade even bigger in a year or so. I'd like to do everything right so I'm taking my plan to the forums before enacting it. 1st Stage - Cleaning 2nd - Phosphate Removal 3rd - Cycling 4th - Coralline Growth 1st: Cleaning will involve washing the rock off and scrubbing any old life that I can find. Bleach or vinegar solutions seem to be a common choice. 2nd: I am already using Lanthanum Chloride to remove phosphates on my cycled rock, I believe I will use this to remove it from this new batch. So far it has been working well. And it seems to be the most efficient method, combined with large water changes. 3rd: I prefer to do Cycling fishless, so I will be using a janitor's solution to provide ammonia to the bacteria. I want to get it heavily seeded and will dose ammonia multiple times to build up the bacteria 4th: Coralline Growth, what may be the hardest stage. If I could do everything I want, I would culture some coralline in its own aquarium first in order to get a clean sample. Probably won't have the resources to do that and will just scrape some from one of my tanks. I will also be adding a CUC to manage other algae during this ~1year process of growing out the coralline. The algae starter and CUC will be the first possible entrances of pests and something I would like to work on. Did I mess any secret techniques or is this a pretty solid plan?
  25. Menidia

    Moving up

    A few years ago I started here and got lots of great information on my 20 gallon fish only, which I greatly appreciate! I did something very stupid about 6 months ago when I failed to quarantine a new banggai cardinal and my 4 year old clownfish died of amlyoodinium. I felt and still feel very bad about that. I kind of lost interest for a while but still took care of the cardinal who pulled through and has tripled in size. Anyways I decided to upgrade to a 75 gallon, though I have a few questions: If I move the existing live rock, sand (also started running an AquaClear with some ceramic media again a few months ago, move that too) will the tank be "cycled enough" to move the banggai over immediately? I'm using dry base rock. Is a 75 gallon big enough for a coral beauty angelfish or a flame angelfish? I've been looking around and have seen some yes's and no's, but not much explanation. I have no corals in this tank so nipping won't be an issue. My ideal stock would be a pair of ocellaris clowns, my banggai cardinal, a dwarf angelfish, and maybe two or so more fish under 4". Any suggestions? Just needs to be cleaner shrimp friendly. Thank you for any advice!
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