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Found 2 results

  1. Hi Folks, I'm currently in the cycling process of my Red Sea Reefer 170. This is my third tank. I started this tank with BRS Dry Rock, and live sand from BRS. I added a shrimp 3-4 days ago. It's beginning to disintegrate in my filter sock, still no ammonia readings. I added a small live rock and some chaeto yesterday. Before adding shrimp I began with Red Sea Mature Pro cycling kit however my readings using API & Salifert show to be 0 on everything Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite. This is after seven days... 77.3 *F 8.17 ph 34.2 salt 233 ORP Visually, the tank looks clean. No signs of diatoms. Where the $#%* is my ammonia haha?! Either this tank is cycling very efficiently and it's undetectable or Red Sea's Mature Pro cycling kit is pure snake oil. Prove me wrong. What to do next... Edit: I added the live sand and dry rock one week before beginning the cycling product from Red Sea.
  2. Hallo forum! Finally got the Fluval Evo 13.5 and I'm trying to make a plan for getting it up and cycling while I'm waiting to be able to afford, you know, sand, rocks, a powerhead, salt, RO/DI unit, ha ha ha (crying) After consideration I want to go with dry sand and dry pukani rock rather than start with live, and then I get a bit confused with overthinking. Should I cure the pukani before adding it to the tank and then cycling the tank? Or should I take advantage of the dead matter in the pukani to help me cycle the tank? I've read that you shouldn't cure rock in the DT? I AM leaning towards curing the rock and then adding it to the tank to then cycle the tank, just so that I can be thorough and make sure everything is clean and stable from the ground up - I don't mind waiting around so much because saving money for each little bit is going to be a slow process for me, plus I like to make sure I have everything laid out from scratch. That said, I don't want to do everything twice if I don't have to. I'm not THAT patient. Another point that I'm not sure about is this: when I've cycled FW tanks in the past I've always used done so by dosing 4ppm 'pure' ammonia and testing from there. It's taken some time but it's always given me a good cycle and a stable BB culture at the end of it. Reading about dry rock cycling online, I've only really seen the 'dead shrimp' method, which, no. I just wanted to find out if I can cycle a dry sand/dry rock tank with the pukani by dosing with bottled bacteria and then feeding with 'pure' ammonia, and if so, what ppm would be needed. I've seen 4ppm and 2ppm recommended? I like to get a large culture of BB going, esp because I think I might be on the heavy side of stocked at the end of it (I'll be using a mini fuge with chaeto and copepods and won't be using a protein skimmer so) I'd love to hear your input, especially from anyone who's done the above before, and if anyone can let me know on curing the pukani before and out of the tank or in the tank while it cycles I'd really appreciate it Thanks for your help nano forum!
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