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Found 61 results

  1. TheonlyDaan

    Acclimating new corals

    Hi all, I got a question about acclimating corals.... I don't really understand the concept of acclimating corals to a specific light intensity? For example in new cycled tank, the first corals you put in have to be acclimated to the light above your tank. I read alot of forums saying to start of slow, for example 30% and work your way up to the desired intensity... Thus far I get it. But what about the corals you put in after that first period? Let say 2 months after the first ones went in, I decide to put in a couple more, and my light is at that time running at 60%. Which means the new corals experience a bigger light output then the first ones that went in. Do I have to adjust my lights again to 30% and start all over again? Or how does this work? Isn't it possible to say for example that when running a LPS tank with a light at 75% intensity we keep it that way from the start. BRS said in one of there latest videos about the AI Prime 16HD that for LPS the light should be 75%: Can anyone please explain this to me? Thanks!!
  2. Hey guys I bought an already established tank (nano reef) in the fluval evo 13.5g. I have 2 questions one more important than the other but wondering on both. so I transported the aquarium with a few inches of water in it and the inhabitants in bags (1 hermit crab, 2 slugs, 2 bubble tip anemone, 1 anemone shrimp, tile of gsp, some zoas, live rock and live sand) the live rock was in a 5g pain with the tanks previous water. I also picked up 2 clownfish and 1 blue damselfish my brother bought me a hammerhead coral. so got home and added the previous water to the tank, then let the bags all float and acclimate. Then made more salt water and checked salinity, all salinities of previous, new and the fishes marine store water similar within .01-.02 of each other. I slowly added the anemones clean up crew etc. I added a bit of the tank water to the fish bags then sat for 5 min or so and then just let them sort of swim out when they were ready. I tried following the directions best I could. so In the tank things look good, the coral is slowly opening one anemone moved completely and the other is ok same spot bit open but closing up maybe because it’s night now? Do they do that? my main concern is that the 2 clown fish are staying primarily in the one top corner. The blue damsel is sort of swimming back and forth from one rock arch to another rock cave and seems fine not going to the top at all. I don’t see anything particularly concerning about the clowns except they are mostly at the top and more in one corner. First question is should I be concerned? I want them to acclimate well and be happy and healthy I’m so paranoid can’t sleep. Is there anything specific I should watch for to catch any warning signs and help? second question I can’t seem to keep the back chamber same level as the main, it’s about an inch or more lower. Is this normal? Am I doing something wrong? Bonus question should I have the pump nozzles aimed more at the anemones and coral or above them, away from them? I feel like I did so much research and now I’m the moment I’m just panicked on night one praying everyone is happy inside! Help 😮
  3. Hey, so first things first, I live in a country where reef keeping is extremely difficult as i practically have to order everything internationally which take 2-4 weeks to arrive. So, I have a 36L nano tank that has been running for 6 months now or so. I have 2 clowns, 1 yellow wrasse and 1 blenny. For cleanup crew I have 1 nassarius snail, 1 turbo snail, 1 hermit crab and 1 fire shrimp. For corals I have a zoa colony (bottom) consisting of 2 colorations, 1 elegance coral (mid) and 2 frogspawn (top) heads. I do a 25% water change every 2 weeks, I dont dose anything due to my small tank size and small number of corals, I have a protein skimmer that runs 8 hours a day and I run white light 3 hours and blue light 7 hours. The only tests allowed to be shipped in via personal shipping are ammonia, nitrate and nitrite and pH tests. My parameters as of today are 0 Ammonia, 0.1 Nitrate and 5 Nitrites. I feed once every 2 days and I have zero algae issues. My elegance and zoas has been closed for 2 months and counting, while my frogspawns are florishing and growing and even small babies started forming around the base. My temperature is 25 celcius and the water I use is from a store pre mixed because it's super hard and super expensive to find salt here to mix yourself, so unfortunately I am stuck with the options I have. I would appreciate any tips or help regarding my corals, I am afraid they would die, especially the elegance as it cost me a fortune getting it where I live. Thanks in advance!
  4. iProShot

    Biocube 32

    I Recently started a Biocube 32g this is my current light schedule 1. 1:00pm-6:00pm 2.11:30am-7:30pm 3. 8am-10pm I don’t know if this light schedule is good enough?? I have been running the tank now for 42 days. Before starting the cycle I swap out the stock filter system the Biocube 32 comes with and got InTaNk media basket Poly Filter Floss Biological Ceramic Filter Rings Chemi-Pure Elite de-nitrate InTaNk Fuge Basket Chaeto- LeD 10 hours When Reef Asleep 💤 Live Copepods 12 pounds of live rocks Live sand Coralife Protein Skimmer Eflux Wave Maker (2) 660 gph day temp at 79f never exceeds 80f at 7pm my heater stops and tank cools temp down close to 75f through out the night at 7am heater turns back on again repeats Daily Kinda to give it that hotter temp by day cooler temp at night. I have a UV sterilizer connected to pump but only using when adding new fish or coral in case has any parasites I keep off otherwise today I started adding the ESV Bionic 2 part I added 8ml of each I will probably just add this same amount 1-2x a week or as needed looking to invest later on into a dozing system. currently have 1 clown & 1 purple dottyback gsp,candy cane coral, Zoan, 4-5 Herman crabs 1 starfish Slowly trying to add mainly corals and a few other fishes I’m Doing weekly water changes of 5-10g I’m using Red Sea Coral Pro Salt I’m Making My Own RO water using a 4 stage Please feel free to give me Feedbacks If Im doing something wrong or what I can do to improve the aquarium to make it better. Thank You Guys 😃🐠🐠
  5. EasyReefs EasyDose: A Collection of Phytoplankton Foods In Fluid Bags That Attach to Your Dosing Pump for Feeding Soft and NPS Corals, Clams, & Inverts Phytoplankton, or marine microalgae, are microscopic vegetable cells that are found in the sea. Phytoplankton is at the base of the food chain in aquatic ecosystems. It serves as food for higher organisms, like zooplankton, filter feeders, and plant-eating corals. Marine phytoplankton is considered a superfood because it contains vitamins, essential fatty acids (EPA, DHA, ARA, GLA), essential amino acids, proteins, carbohydrates, minerals and bioactive compounds involved in the metabolic activities of all living beings in general, and of marine organisms in particular. EasyDose by EasyReefs is one of the most game-changing product lines to hit the hobby. They've been thoroughly tested and proven safe and laboratory environments They are clean and ready to use. a veritable advancement for aquariums and aquarists. EasyDose is suspended in gel form and comprised of marine microalgae and marine minerals that can be preserved at room temperature for over 18 months. Easybooster. Liquid phytoplankton that is ready to use, easy and clean. Easyart. For culture, growing and maintenance of artemia, molluscs and other crustaceans. Easyroti (Prof.). For rotifer culture Easyrich (Monodosis y Prof.). For zooplancton enrichment. Easyconnect. Adaptor for Easydose prof formats. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xsNMUfA60yA Do corals feed off phytoplankton? Not many coral species feed directly on phytoplankton. However, all coral species feed indirectly off of it. How does EasyBooster affect the aquarium? The proliferation of microfauna and its subsequent reproduction produces an increase in the availability of zooplankton in the water column and rocks. This provides food for the corals, completing their nutritional requirements, and feed for fish that capture their prey between the rocks or in the sediment (Synchiropus, Valencianea, etc.). How do I know if EasyBooster is working correctly in my aquarium? The first symptom that it’s working correctly is the intensification of the color of SPS corals. Non-photosynthetic plant-eating corals swell and open their polyps to feed. Other filter feeders like Tridacnas, Seballestraei, etc. show increased growth and activity. In a short amount of time, there is a significant increase in the microfauna present in the aquarium, and fans and sponges appear soon after. Does EasyBooster increase the amount of phosphate in the aquarium? Yes, as do all foods in more or less measure. Phosphorus is an essential nutrient for life. However, the bioavailability of phosphorus associated with phytoplankton makes this quickly turn into biomass that does not disperse along the water column like a residual nutrient. Is it important to begin using EasyBooster in increasing doses? It is not only important; it is vital for the aquarium’s balance that you begin using it at a low dose and gradually increase it according to the instructions. This is to ensure that the bacteria, filter feeders and microfauna present in the aquarium increase gradually so that most of the phytoplankton we provide gets consumed. At what moment in the photoperiod should I add EasyBooster? If adding it manually, we recommend spacing out the doses, ideally two hours after the lights are turned on and one hour after the lights have been turned off. If you will only be dosing once a day, you should do it one hour after the lights have been turned off. If using a dosing pump, you should program it do provide a dose various times a day. Once opened, how long does EasyBooster 14 or 28 (single-use bags) maintain its properties? If only using a portion of the contents of the bag, the rest should be used in the following 24 hours. Once opened, how long does EasyBooster 25 maintain its properties? The product will not be altered if you are careful to maintain the bag well closed and sealed, extracting all the air that may have entered the bag. If using EasyBoster 25 as shown in the image, it will be maintained intact during the same period indicated by the expiration date. This is because the suction from the dosing pump compresses the bag preventing any air from entering. Once opened, how long does EasyBooster prof maintain its properties? EasyBooster prof properties are not altered with respect to its expiration date because the packaging is designed specifically so that oxygen and humidity do not come into contact with the product. Can EasyReefs corals and EasyBooster be used for the same purpose? Yes, both products have been developed as feed for the base of the aquarium food chain. Are there any advantages to using EasyBooster or EasyReefs Corals? Yes! Currently, EasyReefs Corals are comprised of a blend of 3 microalgae with a highly effective nutritional profile. However, EasyBooster contains 4 microalgae that guarantee an optimum nutritional profile. EasyReefs Corals is only lyophilized phytoplankton, whereas EasyBooster is phytoplankton suspended in a mineral solution that contributes to the re-establishment of some compounds that are necessary for the aquarium, like magnesium and potassium. EasyBooster can be added to the aquarium automatically through a dosing pump, making it very easy to use compared to preparing the lyophilized product. Can I pour EasyBooster directly over corals? No. Easybooster is designed to be dispersed in water and act as an activator of the food chain, not as feed for corals. The mineral solution is too concentrated and could damage the animal’s tissues.
  6. Unit 91

    New corals

    Hi guys These are the first corals I've placed in my marine tank (hopefully I made a good purchase). My tank is well established and running for 6 months, all water parameters are good. I got two live rocks packed with corals of all sizes, the corals on one rock are lighter then the other but they might be the same species. They seem like blue elephant mushrooms, but i might be wrong. Also there is an orange corral growing right next to one of these blue corals, do I need to be worried about the distance between them and what is it? Does anyone know what that geen stuff is growing between my corals? It does not seem like an algee
  7. Cladius_galen

    Candy cane coral care help

    So I need some help to not make mistakes with my new candy cane frag. How do I take care of them and what should I feed them? I fed my old ones fish pellets and mysis but these don’t seem to want to eat. They’re in the process of splitting and when I just went to blow some sand off I think I may have damaged the tissues between the heads a little. I need to nnow what you guys recommend and how to keep these guys healthy and happy unlike my last set. also if you wouldn’t mind telling me if what I think is damage between the heads is something they’ll recover from? I’d appreciate it
  8. SCA Starfire 50g cube with sump Started (4/16/19) Equipment: Current Orbit Marine LED w/ Eflux wave pump 660gph x2 Inkbird temperature controller Smart ATO micro Atman 2500 return pump Atman 1100 skimmer pump SCA 301 skimmer In Tank Fluval Chamber 2 media basket Filter Media: Seachem Purigen 100gm x2 bag Seachem Phosbond 100gm bag Fluval 100gm carbon x2 bag Seachem Matrix Carbon 300gm Seachem Matrix 150gm Seachem De*Nitrate 300gm In Tank Filter floss x2 Substrate/Aquascape: Carib Sea Hawaiian Black Live Sand x 50lbs Purple live rock from LFS~ 20lbs Fiji live sand from LFS~ 14lbs Maori live rock from LFS- 26lbs Livestock: Electric blue hermit crab x2 Halloween hermit crab x2 Dwarf blue hermit crab x2 Dwarf red hermit crab x9 Randall's shrimp (red banded pistol) Bumble bee snails x3 Trochus snails x 4 Cerith snail x1 BRISTLE WORMS!!!! Star polyp x 2 (one split into two sections thanks to hermits, so there’s three-ish) Palys x1 (nebula) Hairy mushroom x3 (all on one big rock) Hammer x 1 Torch x1 Superman Montipora x1 Strawberry shortcake Acropora x1 Zoa x3 Sun coral x1 Red and white gorgonian x1 Bubble tip anemone x1
  9. Corydork

    5 gallon pico tank

    Hi! Just a brief background on me: I've kept discus, I actively breed corydoras and I have over 1,500 gallons worth of aquariums, and I've been keeping fish for 5 years now. I've always just had freshwater and brackish water, but I'm interested in starting a 5 gallon pico tank (it's the only free tank I have after my betta passed at 8 y.o.). I've a few questions that I'd like to have answered. 1.)What fish/inverts would be good for a pico tank at my level of saltwater knowledge? 2.)What would you estimate to be the baseline price for the tank? I've already got aragonite, the tank, a skimmer, and a sump. 3.) Would it be possible to keep corals in the tank?
  10. Snow_Phoenix

    20200526_192516.jpg

  11. Snow_Phoenix

    20200526_191657.jpg

  12. Snow_Phoenix

    20200526_192647.jpg

  13. Hey guys! So I've dipped into getting some beginner softie and lps corals and I'm a complete noob to all this lighting jargon and was wondering what y'all would reccomend. As the title says I have an orbit marine IC Loop lighting fixture (this guy right here: https://www.amazon.com/Current-USA-Marine-Aquarium-60-Inch/dp/B00GFTNG3S?th=1). I'm aware it can keep softies lps and some lower light heartier sps if placed at the top, however what exactly should I keep the lighting at. It has a standard mode with the RGB that has everything at 100% which is super bright and white, and I like it for the most part but the corals don't really pop. I tried a setting with 70% blue and 70% red and it makes a really nice purple color that make the corals look awesome and fluoresce. I would like to keep this kind of lighting all the time so the corals always look that good, right now I've just been switching to the purple color at nighttime. My question is if I leave it at the purple color 24/7 is that enough light for the corals to grow? I'm a little confused about how the par works in with this light. Current USA (the company) has a diagram giving general par at certain depths, but they don't say how much light is being put out. Am I to assume that just means the light has to be on full power with all led colors maxed out to get those outputs, or could I receive the same par if I just did all blues? Anyways if anyone could help clear some of this up and suggest led percentage combinations that would be great! Thanks!
  14. Pretty much straight jacked from Snow's question about fish. What's the most you've spent on a single coral? What's your max budget for coral? Explain if you want to. Post a picture of said coral if you have one. For me, the most I've spent is probably $1,300 on a ER lineage Colorado Sunburst. My RRC Jawdropper comes in a close 2nd.
  15. coryscritch

    corys IM 14 gallon

    hi guys about 10 years ago i had a 65 gallon reef that i loved! since moving to nyc i haven't set one up until now. which began as a very basic 10 gallon tank. a month in she started leaking which forced me to upgrade to something a little bigger but much nicer. so heres what i have. tank -IM nuvo 14 gallon heater-cobalt 100w lighting -current orbit marine led (light works great for the price and what i have for now) -finnex light (for refugium) filtration -purigen -chemipure -phosnet i also have the algae barn nano refugium kit. -finnex hob refugium i have about 17lbs of live rock i got from my LFS (pacific aquarium) 5lbs of live sand flow -sicce .5 silent pump (stock pump was too loud) nano koralia weekly water changes (about 2 gallons) the old tank is pictured first. i liked the rock work much more in the first tank. all together the tank is about 3 months old.
  16. Penguin Reef

    8 Gallon Peninsula

    Hey fellow Reefers, I'm Pedro but everyone calls me Chris! I've been in and out of the hobby for acouple years now and I recently got the reefer fever. I was looking for something small and bumped into the 8 Gallon JBJ Rimless desktop. The filter is moveable so I thought why not give a peninsula style reef a shot. JBJ 8 Gallon Rimless Desktop came with the Lyra Led Light, Removable Bio Filter, and Pedestal. Looking into upgrading the light soon. Any suggestions or tips?!?
  17. Isalei

    Help!

    What is going on with this coral and how do I stop it dying? Its always been white but seems like the brown is creeping upwards- I had two frags and they were growing fine but now this has happened to both. Everything else in the tank is growing well. I did see the tentacley coral(technical name;) ) stinging so I've had to move stuff about a bit. Wondering if I damaged them.
  18. Toufiqul Islam

    Unidentified Species

    Dear all I am doing my thesis on this selected Marine species that haven't been identified. Literally I have no idea whether it is a Marine plant or invertebrate. There is no such related Marine Biologist or Marine Expert in our country whom I can seek assistance. So, I am desperately seeking your kind assistance to identify this species.
  19. I need help determining what the best kind of coral would be in the middle of this structure thank you.
  20. merickson45

    Coral ID

    Hi all! I'm completely new to the hobby, and after doing a bunch of research I just got my first reef tank from a local shop. They gave me a bunch of rock, and a few corals came along for the ride. Below is an image of one I'm having trouble identifying. Does anyone know what this is? Let me know if better quality pictures are needed. Thanks! Michael
  21. ConawayCorals

    watermelon zoas 29 gal.

    was told they was watermelon zoas (dont at me if they aren't lol ) Took with Canon T6 rebel
  22. Since joining the Old School Pico Contest I've been feeling nostalgic and looking to set up a bigger reef system like it was 1999. Metal halides, T5's, Kalkwasser you get the picture. I've been thinking about an upgrade tank for sometime now, but had a hard time picking a system that I will be happy with for sometime that's inexpensive, bigger but not huge and easy to manage. I wanted the same ease of use that I get from my EVO 13.5 but with more space for corals,fish, and more room in the rear chambers. Most of the AIO's out there didn't quite check all the boxes or out of the budget. I will be keeping this build on a tight budget, but also try and make it as nice as possible in the process. That being said I will be using most of the equipment I already have or in use. My vision for this build will be lots of flow, light, and mainly sps dominant. I think it will be cool to have a nano still running metal halide/t5/led. It will be interesting to see colors and growth from all three lighting options at same time. I'm very excited to see this build come together, here are the specs. Tank 40 gallon breeder peninsula with an AIO insert custom made by @This guy is extra salty This way I get the best of both worlds, keep cost low and get the much needed space I was looking for. Stand Petco Brooklyn stand I will make a custom skin with pvc board Lighting Floating canopy made with pvc board T5/led fixture I made for my EVOreef 4-24watt T5 bulbs with a dsuny eBay led. 400 watt radium metal halide fixture. Flow Ice cap 1k Aqamai KPS Return pump TBD This is all I have for now will update as this build progresses.
  23. Hg23

    Pico Reef

    Hi everyone, I'm thinking of starting a Pico Reef project, but I'm missing information about this type of project, I'd like you to help me with this work by answering my questions: 1- Is it possible to create a totally natural saltwater aquarium? (without heater, mechanical filter, etc.) 2 - Is it possible to make a natural aquarium in these proposals with less than 1 gallon? 3 - Would you like to make an aquarium in these terms only for resistant corals? what do you think?
  24. So i noticed that an aussie lord I have is not as healthy looking as my other two frags, so I inspected around it for any Aiptasia. I noticed somethings growing on its side. Not really sure what they are, I don't see any tentacles, however I do see movement when my damsels swim by it. Some purple looking things. Also noticed qhat looks like the same thing starting grow on the side of my Frogspawn, which is definitely no bueno. Anyone know what these are? Should I be fine just dipping both frags, do i need to scrape these things off, rely on some critter that eats whatever these are? Any help and advice is greatly appreciated.
  25. Hello, I've been lurking here for quite some time while I planned and set up my tank. Excuse the mobile pics. It's similar to a reefer E-170. I took alot of time choosing and scaping my live rock which I am quite happy with, got some blue/purple mushies bottom left, 2 hammers, one back right doesn't get much flow but opens up nicely, I've moved the green one to front/center close to my elegance. My green devils hand is constantly moving and changing shape, the clowns love it. I got a nice frogspawn wall that I stuck in the cave and a white frogspawn on the top left. I'm not sure what the green coral on the rock over the mushies is? Can supply more pics for ID if required. CUC consists of : 1 strombus snail. 6 peppermint shrimp 4 zombie snails I will get a blood shrimp when they are available at my LFS, they got redline cleaners in but in AUD they cost $150 😞 Hitch hikers: Some tiny brittle stars? A selection of snails (turbo I think) Possibly 2 small crabs, kinda hairy, small claws. Hairy slug snail (no idea what it is, like a flat snail with hair) Fish: Pair of clowns Royal Gramma Flasher wrasse Carpet blenny Yellow Coral goby (deceased) female clown is an asshole... I do 10% water changes 3 times a month and 25% once a month with sea water @1.025. Im wondering what other fish I can add before I'm fully stocked, I like peaceful and colourful? Also with regards to coral should I take it easy for now and see what happens with my current colonies? Any advice really is appreciated. Thanks!
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