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Found 14 results

  1. Summer is just around the corner and its time to prepare for the heat! If you are on the hunt for an aquarium chiller then come checkout this weeks blog: Beat The Heat: Reef Edition Our free blog is also full of other great content to help hobbyists grow their aquarium knowledge. Please feel free to check it out HERE.
  2. The weather is coming in hot and so is the savings on JBJ Chillers! Save 15% off JBJ Aquarium Series Chillers! Shop now!
  3. My Biocube 16 has been running in the 80 - 84 F range since summer hit and I’ve been dealing with what seem to be more diatoms, algae, and unhappy corals, so I decided to get a chiller. Decided on this one from Chill Solutions, which came out to less than $300, including the installation kit, wall mounting bracket, and shipping. Very happy with the decision so far - great customer service via their chat feature when I ordered it, fairly easy to install with their kit that includes u-bend connectors, it’s compact, and seems to work well so far. Temp went from 81 to approximately 78, which is what I set it to. It’s only been up and running since last night... I hope it proves to work well and gets me through the summer with less tank temp anxiety!!! Here’s a link to their website, if you want to check it out. You can order it from Amazon too, but they didn’t have the install kit on Amazon when I checked. https://www.chillsolutions.com/
  4. A.m.P

    Indirect Pump water-heating

    Read through some more horror stories from heater-failures today and it made me want to attempt a solution. I was thinking of using 15 or so feet of H2 PTFE Fluerotherm run into a cheap-insulated lunchbox or cooler (maybe just one of the cheap styrofoam boxes with a water-proof coating or bag inside) of around 1-2 gallon capacity which would house a 50-100gph pump and the heaters from the display. The line would then be run out to the rear-chamber of the display-tank and through a dozen or two feet of coiling, as you would see in a chiller, before returning to the reservoir to be re-heated. I see no reason why the material wouldn't be reef-safe (since it's food-safe and used to coat pans) and it's getting in the ballpark of having the same thermal-conductivity as some metals (while still being an inert electrical-insulator). I figure the relatively-small volume and flow-rate means that the tank wouldn't just be protected from shorts, but also from overheating - with the potential to actually probe the reservoir-itself to a kill-switch for redundancy. And since I only need to keep things around 6-10F above ambient I'm not exactly trying to boil things. My two main Ideas for operation would be: -Keep the reservoir hot, around 85+ F and run the pump on a temp-probe in the display, the downside to this of course is that it would react sluggishly and potentially-cause consistent, small temperature-swings. -The second idea is, if possible, to match the display-tank's goal-temp (75F) and run the pump 24/7 during the winter. If there is enough mass and energy being imparted into the system then I wouldn't have to worry about swings at all. The downside is that this method would likely need to approach the peak flow-rate for airline tubing (around 150 gph) and has the potential to underheat the system if the ambient temperature falls too low (in which case I could run my redundant heater on a probe and have it kick-in to further heat the reservoir's water). Any insane folks out there care to entertain my crazy ramblings for a second lol? Would love feedback, couldn't find too many folks trying to DIY heater-coils, just allot of chillers haha. And, while I could probably set up the math for mass-flow-rate --> heat transfer, it doesn't really take into account the liquid cooling in the system itself and is an absolute-headache, so I would probably go the trail-and-error route instead. @Wonderboy Your tanks are DIY haevens, what do you think?
  5. Hey Nano-Reef! I've decided that I'd like to take a shot at a cold water reef, and after digging in the old equipment a little, I realized I have most of the parts lying around. Chillers are expensive, and I love to make things, so decided to take an old office water chiller and turn it into an aquarium safe water chiller. I had some titanium tubes from another project, and they were pretty cheap, 3$ each from ebay. They're a little short and a little thin, 1/4 OD and only 12 in long. Most in tank coil chillers use a Titanium coil where the cooling end filled with gas is directly in the tank, But I don't have the tools (or Licences), to work with the whole soldering and welding/ weird refrigeration gasses it would require, Instead, I'm using the cold water from the chiller and pumping it through the titanium tubes I've bent. The benefit from this so that I can use multiple 1/4 tubes in order to move heat in a smaller area, as well as having the force from the pump have a little more room than just 1/2 to 1/4, now it'll be 1/2 to two or three 1/4s at 80 GPH, as well as being able to disassemble and reconfigure everything, or even add more coils alter on. The main tank itself will be a 2.5 gallon tank with a tiny cheap HOB filter and Macroalage until I can acquire some cold water organisms like strawberry anemones. I'm not sure of the lighting yet, But I think I might do DIY LED strip. It's cold water, so the only organisms for a while will be low light. Cold water usually needs more water changes than warm, from what I've read, so the size may be a little easier to keep up with. I may upgrade to a 7.5 Gallon rimless i've been saving for something nice. Opinions are always welcome and always appreciated, I'm new to cold water and any help in the form of advice or constructive criticism is awesome. Here's the mount for the Titanium tubes in CAD to be 3d printed: (if anyone wants the STL file em lemme know)
  6. An Bollenessor

    red sea max reefer 170 chiller plumbing

    Hi all, I will be replacing my RSM 130d with a RSM 170 to have a sump. I have a coldwater tank so run a chiller, which is currently placed outside the cabinet (behind the back wall, had some holes drilled for tubing). I am unsure how to combine a chiller with a sump (I found an RSM manual online but could not visualise the description!). Do you recommend I have the chiller in a separate loop, with a tube from sump to chiller to return pump to sump? Seems a bit of a waste of energy and also will have two pumps draining a relatively small sump at the same time. Or can I have a tube leave the sump into a chiller, into a return pump and then plump back to the aquarium? Might need a quite powerful pump to pull water through sump then chiller? Any suggestions much appreciated! cheers Mick
  7. Biocubelife

    Biocube 14 heat problems

    Soooo just got into a recent issue with heat on my biocube 14. I know the kid doesn’t help the issue but I don’t want to take it off. Temps have hit 86 degrees so I’m in defcon 2 right now. Opened the feeder lid to get some flow. Only thing I can think of is I upgraded the return pump to the cobalt mj series. Ideas on cooling it down? i thought about connecting the ballasts and turning the fan on but I upgraded to led and the old light bulb sockets are still there. I don’t want fried fish... HA
  8. Just broke down my tank (65g) and want to unload just about brand new equipment I purchased about 2 mos ago - I have two Hydra 26s HD both as pair $500 1/6 Chiller by Coralife with digital display - $550 From Ny been In the hobby for 15yrs and have a new home, no time anymore for tank Also have my RSM 250 which I customized for the hydras available with black matching cabinet , skimmer, heater and extra koralia pump $300 - this weekend only
  9. Marine Depot

    ❄ 0% APR Financing on CHILLERS ❄

    ❄ 0% APR Financing on CHILLERS ❄ Chill out and make easy monthly payments over 3, 6, or 12 months!
  10. Started this tank on March 30, 2017 with stock pump and filter sock, koralia nano from previous tank, and 5 lb of LR, and about 8.5 gallons of saltwater to start. The tank is almost a year old now and some upgrades have happened. (will take some better pics with the camera later) Equipment -IM Ti ATO (going to tunze nano ato) -Ran a kessil a80 for 11 months before going to a radion (diffusion kit/rm -Jbj 1/15 hp Chiller with 1.0 return -Sicce 0.5 return - inTank Media rack with 2 filer floss on top, seachem matrix, bottom two filter flosses -inTank universal media skimmer -was running a IM desktop Media Reactor with carbon but since the RMS mount is fairly big i had to remove the reactor (don't mind that because its freaking study!) So in turn I have a Fudge basket that I might run with more matrix in it if the tunze 9001 doesnt work out (coming) -MP10 wQD -inTank Frag rock (2) - 5 lb LR -3 lb Sand (going to take down to less lb's till its barley covered probably -Cobalt Aquatics Neotherm 100w heater - 6.5 chemipure Live Stock: - Rainbow Acans - Duncans - Walking Aussie Duncan - Purple Tipped Frogspawn - Young Maxima Clam - Rock anemone -3 nassarius snails -3 Trochus Snail -3 Aussie young scolymia/s? LOL -Side plant is one of 3 succulents I got at a baby shower and decided to try to grow it under the XR-15 instead of my bedroom window lol, so if they switch out ever that why. Let me know if you have any thoughts on the tank! Plan on upgrading to a Lagoon 25 at some point this year I hope!
  11. BTBarney

    Preparing for a heat wave

    Hello Nano-Reef! I'm a newbie to the forums (not necessarily a newbie to aquariums), but I have a nano-reef temperature control question I live in California, where it can get quite hot - temperatures are expected to get up to 110F in my area this weekend (Boo!!!). I have a new (~2 months) IM Fusion 10, with no chiller. Nor do I have air conditioning in my house (another Boo!!). I expect the temp in this tank to skyrocket over the weekend, and I'm sure the Zoas, Frogspawn, Cyphastrea, and Acans will be, shall we say, unhappy about this. Does anyone on this forum use some sort of short-term cooling system ideas, be they makeshift or store-bought, that would get me through this heat wave? Freezer packs in the back sump? watching the temperature like a hawk? I'm up for ideas, as I'd rather not wipe out the tank before it really gets started. Thanks! -Bryan
  12. I have a year old Teco TK 150 for sale that I no longer need. If you know anything about Teco, you know they are well made, quiet, and reliable. The 150 is good for up to 60 gallons, I had it on my Fusion 20 running with just a maxijet 1200 power head. The fittings are for 1/2" tubing. This thing retails new for $475, I'm only asking $250. Product Info I'll get pics of it up later today.
  13. SelectedByNature

    Hooded AIO Getting Hot

    Any suggestions for keeping my hooded biocube cool this summer? I noticed it started getting warm yesterday (normally 79) it was 81.7 (it was 33 outside). I never thought it would be an issue since it's in the basement but there's no AC down there. I lifted the hood last night to allow more air exchange cooling through the night and it was back down to 79. But by the time I left for work it was creeping up again. Since I have a hood is it a bad idea to leave it open at night and closed during the day causing constant fluctuations? Any thoughts?
  14. I've gotten hold of a used Nova Tec Iceprobe chiller, but the paint/coating on the probe itself is flaking and the exposed probe is oxidized. It appears to be a simple aluminum rod, so I assume it could just be repainted. I know this isn't uncommon for these units, so I'm curious what others have done to coat the aluminum without insulating it too much. Since it's already oxidizing, do you need to use special primers and paints? And how do we know which are reef safe? Alternatively, would it be OK to simply use the naked aluminum probe unpainted? Will it just augment my phosguard?
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