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Found 11 results

  1. Hello all, I have lurked forums for a long time, have learned lots, but am at an impasse as to why I keep killing corals ... Tank info is as follows: Biocube 29 with LED hood Tank is 2.5 years old with live rock and sand I have a home-made protein skimmer in chamber 1 I have filters and chaeto fuge in chamber 2, with chaeto lights on alternate schedule from tank I run a 50 gpm wave pump in addition to the tank pump 2 misbar clowns, and a happy CUC Parameters: Temp 81 Salinity - 1.026 SG Nitrate, Nitrite, Ammonia - 0 Calcium - 440 ppm Mag 1365 ppm pH 7.9 Alkalinity 7.0 kKH (a touch low, yes?) 25% Water changes every 7 - 10 days with RO/DI water from LFS. I use Crystal Sea Bioassay salt. I have a small zoa colony that is happy, but not going gangbusters or anything. I have managed to kill a torch and an acans in the past few months, and the favia I picked up 10 days ago is not happy - it has receded into its skeleton. If it follows the pattern of others, I will never see it again. I drip acclimate all my new corals. I realized magnesium was low (900 ppm) when I brought the favia home, and I raised it less than 100 ppm per day to the current level.... I gave the favia an iodine dip ... What are the chances the favia will rebound now that mag is higher? The bigger question ... what am I missing / doing wrong? I have a little algae, but the CUC and the skimmer along with water changes keep it in check with nothing taking over. Many many thanks for your time and info! -Alan
  2. Hey guys! So i'm approaching 3 years with my fluval m60 (24 gallon all in one). Like most I have been through struggles and learned a lot and finally have a great looking tank full of beginner coral (and my clown fish). My next move is getting an anemone which i'm pretty much sure i'm ready for since the tank is established, and water chem. is overall decent which seems like the most important for anemone including good lighting which I have. Once I get my anemone and it becomes settled I want to move into caring for stoney corals, which is what this post will be about. Right now I honestly don't tell parameters much. Only time I will is when a problem occurs and want to get a understanding of what could be causing it. Testing only includes pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. I rely heavily on weekly/bi-weekly water changes ranging from 5-20% depending on various factors, to just hope my parameters are in check. So with what I want to do I know I will have to start checking parameters more frequently as well getting a more wide spreed of what parameters to be checking for. Since checking parameters can be time consuming using chemical testing(?) compared to digital testing I'm looking to invest in digital testing for parameters that should be checked more often. What do you guys recommend testing for weekly (while doing wc). For these parameter testing I'd like to purchase digital testing so save time. Then since I want to care for advanced species what else should I test for. This is a list off the top of my head I should be testing for so please inform me if more should be include. pH ammonia nitrite nitrate calcium dKh(alkalinity) magnesium I'd love any feed back for what I should do, personal opinion, or tips/purchases that could be helpful as I will be moving to a more advanced reef system.
  3. Allyyy

    Testing Hydrometer

    Hi! I am in a chemistry 3A class and we are doing an investigation on water sample from our local zoo. My group has decided to show the possible differences between two different hydrometers but we need a reference number to compare to. I found an article saying that the standard salinity of aquariums should be 35 PPT. I also need to prove the accuracy (trueness & precision) of the hydrometers. Do I use a refractometer? I am really not sure what to do, help is very much appreciated.
  4. nanoreefer1985

    my nano-reef tank is gone...

    I dropped my food in my nano-tank a few days ago, well, my cat pushed it and the food container fell in the water. I didn't know about it, until it was too late. Usually, I measure my water quality every week, so I couldn't have noticed the chemistry got out of control in such a short time. Is there a way to automatically test your water everyday, so I could react rapidly? If there was a solution to fully automate your chemistry testing, would you use it?
  5. chathurai

    TDS 34 ppm is it bad ?

    im from srilanka its really hard to find ro/di water from LFS here.today i tested my tap water , reading was 34ppm , is it ok to start my new tank setup with these TDS reading ? chathura
  6. Atarius

    Experiences with NO3PO4X?

    Hi guys I've had continuous slight algae issues (cyano on the sand and hair on live rock; I also have a sulking Duncan which made me try to improve params) since taking over this tank, and have decided to do something about it. I'm using NO3PO4X consistently at the suggested dose and have seen my nitrates fall to around 10ppm from 20+ppm. However, I don't have any detectable phosphate or nitrite. At this level, should I still be getting algae growth? I would think that 10ppm nitrate and 0 nitrite/phosphate should be good enough. I'll keep aiming to bring the nitrate down with NO3PO4X until it stabilises, as per the instructions. Anyone have any ideas if I'm barking up the wrong tree or should be doing something different? Tank size (volume) - 16 gallons Tank age - 2 years (moved and rescaped 6 months ago) Lighting - AI Prime Nitrate - 10 (fallen from 20 2 weeks ago) Nitrite - 0 Phosphate - 0
  7. Lugmos12

    10ppm nitrates

    I'm pretty sure I overfed with reef chili this week; just tested nitrates at 10ppm. My water changes is tomorrow. Is it safe to wait? It's a 13.5G fluval.
  8. Hello Everyone, I've been working on a little project and wanted to know your opinions and thoughts. In our tanks, water movement is essential for a healthy system. The air being mixed into our waters by surface movement and protein skimmers and the like is used by our coral, fish and inverts, but what would happen if instead of water movement, we used pure oxygen? Or some kind of SCUBA breathing gas like trimex? I know its much more practical and probably more natural to use flow, but just for the sake of curiosity I'd love to see. If one used a water splitter to get hydrogen and oxygen gas and injected the 02 into the water, I wonder if the oxygen would allow the polyps to grow larger, much like insects in a more oxygen rich atmosphere. The limiting factor concerning insect size is the ability to move gasses throughout their systems, and that's why they're much smaller today, does that apply to all invertebrates that rely on ambient gasses to breathe?
  9. tofer

    Question

    My DKh is staying steady yet my calcium and magnesium drop is this normal ? I do have 2 Duncan's which are growing Nicky and a hammer which is happy fully extended . shouldn't the DKH also drop some as well or can the weekly water changes keep it steady ?
  10. I couldn't find this on another thread so... when is it safe to add a product like Clear FX Pro to a tank? The Fluval EVO 13 came with carbon but I haven't used it either. I have 225ml of Clear FX Pro unused and thought about adding it to the tank.
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