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Found 25 results

  1. Bearnadian

    Starting New Waterbox 10 Cube

    Just starting out my new Waterbox 10 Cube. 10 lbs Direct Live Oolite Sand 10 lbs Dry Rock MarcoRocks Floss Pad Black corse sponge (came with Waterbox) Original AI Prime Light with Flex Arm Eheim thermocontrol e75 sicce nano return pump Autoaqua smart ATO lite Aquaticlife Twist 4 stage Seachem Ammonia Alert Chemipure (original) Red Sea Coral Pro Salt SeaChem Stability SeaChem Prime (only as needed) Purple Helix Coralline Algae ARC Reef
  2. meanduck124

    Does my RBTA dying?

    So my RBTA has been shiverled up like this for a while now. From time to time, it would expand normally, but about a week ago, it hasn't expanded once. Maybe it is dying or it just something they do. I'm currently put it in a quarrantine box so the clown won't bother it.
  3. I picked up a rock from my lfs today and was shocked to find a small hitchhiker in the form of an anemone which i think is a bta... Hard to tell from the picture. The foot is a dark red and the tentacles look teal and purple. Right now, I'm trying to dislodge it from the rock. I was just wanting to add some more rubble to my fuge Should I take it back? I don't know if my tank is stable enough to handle an anemone.
  4. Clown79

    Clown's Nuvo20

    I lucked out to get a 10g IM with the Skyye light used for $50. It had been used for 6mnths for a freshwater tank. It was in excellent condition. We made a pedestal stand for it out of 2x4's and special grade plywood used to make tractor trailers. This stand is solid and very heavy! Equipment 10g Im Stock pump Spin Stream Nozzle Skyye Light 10k 50/50 Caribsea black hawaiian live sand 80% dry rock/20% liverock I cycled the tank with just the liverock, no dosing of anything. The tank took 6 weeks to cycle. I had a favia brain in the tank because it had been in my 15g but was attacked by peppermint shrimp so I had to remove it. It was in bad shape. After the first waterchange we added a few hermits and snails. After a month we added a leather which was a carnation leather. Upon finding out the difficulty in success with this coral I brought it back to the store. I didn't want to take the chance and lose a coral in such a new tank. My first fish was a purple firefish. it was added about 2 months after start up. It was absolutely beautiful and such a great fish.
  5. FTS: 08/25/2020 FTS: 08/06/2020 FTS: 08/04/2020 FTS: 07/19/2020 FTS: 07/09/2020 FTS: 06/29/2020 FTS: 06/26/2020 FTS: 06/04/2020 FTS 05/22/2020 FTS 04/09/2020 FTS 02/27/2020 Top Down 02/27/2020 Actinic FTS 02/15/2020 FTS 02/04/2020 FTS 01/04/2020 Top Down 12/04/2020 FTS 12/17/2019 FTS: 12/02/2019 Top Down: 12/02/2019 FTS:11/17/2019 Top Down 11/11/2019 Well here it is. I picked this bad boi up for a whopping $25! Had calcium all over so needed a good scrub. Bought a nice entertainment center, restructured it a little to make sure it can hold weight and custom made light hanger built from local reefer. The Goods: IM Nuvo 40 Stock media basket with filter pads, carbon, Purigen, and a mini refugium with chaeto IM AQUA Gadget 2-1 Chaetomax LED IM MightyJet 538gph w/ 1x Spin Stream IM Medium Size Nuvo Skimmer AI Nero 5 EcoTech MP10 ATI SunPower 4x Bulb 3x Blue + and 1 Coral + while running 2x Actinic LED ProLumen Strips Tunze Nano ATO ATO Reservoir 5g Soy Sauce Bucket 300 Watt Ceramic Heater Externally Controlled w/Finnix Thermostat The Wet Goods: Lighting Maroon Clown Pair & Rainbow BTA Yellow Tail Goby & Pistol Tiger Shrimp Pair Flame Angel Purple Dottyback Cleaner Shrimp Harlequin Shrimp Pair Mix Reef (lobos, scolys, btas, favias, zoas, palys, pavonas, torches, shrooms) CUC (trochus, turbos, nerites, red/blue legged hermits)
  6. I'm Batman

    20g AIO DIY Peninsula

    Alright so here goes the ultimate adventure! Transfering my 15g tall to the new 20g Long I put together. Shout out to Cromag who cut the acrylic I needed for this project. 3 Years ago... 11/22/20 - Orphek 15,000k filter 2/28/21 - Dino’s again 3 months strong (literally the next week after the photo above I had yet another annual outbreak.
  7. Hi! I'm planning my new tank for after I move, and I'm looking at getting the WaterBox Peninsula Mini 15 and doing a BTA tank. The display dimensions are 16.6"×13.8"×13.8" and I'm trying to decide if a Kessil A80 would work. It's just a tiny bit over the recommended dimensions for the A80. Also, planning to have the tank right next to my desk and would like to minimize light spill/height - would the A160 be better for that? Appreciate any input, thanks guys!!
  8. 👋🏻 hello! This is my first saltwater tank, and with not much of an aquarium culture in my little mountain town, I’m hoping to share and learn with some other obsessed aquarists! I’ve got a nice 55 gal South American freshwater planted tank that’s been going great for about 2 years. I got this biocube 29 used with all of the stock equipment, but have upgraded to the following -eheim 100 watt heater -inkbird temp controller -duetto ATO -IM wavelink wave maker -stock skimmer -dry rock from Bulk Reef Supply -inTank media basket with filter floss and bio media plate pieces -stock lighting (for now) I’m just now cycling, entering week 2, so feeding and testing for ammonia/nitrites. I seeded with seachem stability. Running with lights off. I will run a small Refugium with chaeto in the back sump when I get some nitrates and phosphates going. Would love to hear advice or encouragement! Thanks for letting me join the forum 👍🏻 Ps follow me on Twitter @JulieReefer
  9. Clownnem05

    Clownnem05’s bta tank

    Hey:) this will be a thread documenting my journey creating the BTA tank of my dreams. Feel free to give constructive criticism at anytime!!! livestock: -pair of Ocellaris Clowns - two green bubble tip anemones - 5 blue legged hermit crabs - assorted snails lighting: 2 Kessil a80s tank info: IM 25 gallon lagoon filtered with marine pure bio filter gems. Water changes are done once a week. Normally I do 5 gallon changes. Feeding: the clownfish get fed pellets once a day and the nems get mysis shrimp every 3-4 days Pictures:
  10. Grimm_Medic

    G_M's 20 Gallon Nem Garden

    Hey everyone! Im new to this site and nanos in general and figured I would share my progress (hopefully) with you all. A little background about myself, I have been in the SW hobby for a little over five years now and currently have a 75 gallon mixed reef which is quickly becoming SPS dominate and a 40 gallon BTA tank. I have had my eye on the Waterbox AIO tanks for a while now and after seeing some of the builds on here I decided I needed to blow some money and get one for myself! 😉 This will be a new build from the ground up, but I will be moving the livestock from the 40 breeder into it once it has cycled. Equipment Waterbox 20 gallon cube AIO AI Prime HD Stock return pump (will upgrade to sicce down the road) Hydor nano powerhead ATO from 40 gallon Apex Jr from 40 gallon Getting this tread started a little late, but here are a few pictures to get started!....I may have forget to take pictures while I was building the cabinet. I placed an order for 25lbs of live rock from Tamp Bay Saltwater which I am really looking forward to getting. The supplied bioballs are marinating in the the sump of the 75 until the rock arrives. Not too shabby for a DIY stand, need to build the door....eventually amazed by the clarity of the starfire glass. Kicking things off with the good stuff!
  11. My 5g pico has been running since March and I’ve used an Asta 20 on it. My frogspawn and pocillopora did well under it along with the miscellaneous zoas and other lps. The remote broke so the light is stuck at 60-80% and on the whiter side. Would this be sufficient for a BTA? I do have a 30g but it’s only been running for about a month. Most of the livestock from the 5g has been moved to the new tank and is tanking the transition well but I’ve heard mixed things about anemones in new/moved tanks so I’d probably start it in the pico. Would the current lighting work? If not, what would be a good cheap alternative or would it be alright in the new tank? Thanks!
  12. Considering options for a nano tank setup with a pair of clownfish, bubble tip anemone and CUC. My current idea is a 16 gal Biocube with light upgrade (Steve’s/NanoBox LED). Saw a few post that may suggest this is too small. What do you all think?
  13. booscam

    advice on BTA!

    I purchased a used biocube 14 and have had it up and running for about 4 months now. As of right now i have a few snails/ hermit crabs, a cleaner shrimp, a clownfish, a few beginner corals, and a BTA. I’ve had my bubble tip for about a month now and he was doing fine until about a week ago. I live in texas so it gets pretty hot here, so even w the AC on my tank was getting up to 83 degrees. It took me a few days but i was able to finally control the temperature. My BTA anemone started to look like he was about to die but once i was able to stabilized the temperature it seemed like he was starting to look healthier. I did some maintenance on my tank and i ended up moving a rock he was on a a little bit & i adjusted my wave maker and it caused him to move again. For the past 2 days he’s been moving every night and looks like he is about to die. I know if they die in a tank it is very bad for the water and you must get the BTA out immediately. I really don’t want it to die, and i don’t know if i’ll be able to be around to get it out in time in case it releases any toxins that could kill my fish/ coral. Any advice on what to do about my bubble tip? For my tank, all my parameters have been normal and stable. My fish and coral are doing fine again, but my BTA is not looking too good.
  14. I know it's best to let BTAs find their happy place and deal with it as best you can to accommodate. Issue is my BTA is currently attached to rock facing the back wall of my tank and can't be seen from my front display or side display -- sad because I love it so much! I have not tried to move the BTA or encourage it to move at all yet. I've read tons of literature on ways to encourage a move -- from blasting with powerhead, using a credit card, using a piece of ice, gently massaging the foot area to get it to release. I'm sure I can try some of these, but they all seem quite invasive! Only active strategy/plan right now is to patiently hope it will decide to move from its current location to a place it can be seen -- where it is now, it still receives great lighting, proper flow and can be accessed from the top of the tank for spot feedings (slice of silverside about 1x/week). Has anyone tried to block light from a BTA to encourage it to move? It would be incredibly easy for me to place something on top of my tank lid and block light from hitting my BTA while still allowing light to hit the rest of my corals/tank. It seems the least invasive way to encourage a more natural move. I'm no expert though. Anyone tried this before? Any red flags/concerns/reasoning I should not try it? Regardless, I'm still hoping it will make a move on its own without me changing or physically encouraging it at all -- but its been in this location a few weeks and it is killing me I can't see it!! Any thoughts on when I should start trying to encourage a move?
  15. Chris's Fishes

    BTA (?) Needs your Help!

    Hello! I've gone as far as I feel comfortable without trying to get some more help with this anemone. Long story short, I received an anemone that I wasn't expecting yesterday. I'll link you to the thread I made somewhere down below. I think it's a BTA, but I'm not sure on that. Here's a pic of it attached to the rock that it shipped with: Well, shortly after that picture, it began expelling zooxanthellae, and then deflated. Whatever - I expected it to do that. I didn't expect it to completely detach from the rock and start floating around, though. I turned off all flow in the tank, and tried to get it to attach in three different spots over a four hour period. No luck. It'd inflate, start moving around, and then just sit there. I finally got worried about the lack of flow in the tank, and started the pumps back, and put the nem into a container with some rubble, hoping that it'd attach overnight. A few minutes before lights-out, it had inflated and was moving around quite a bit - I was hopeful. This morning, it's managed to flip itself upside-down onto the rocks. Tentacles-down. Which is interesting, because it seemed like it'd always flip itself onto it's side yesterday. Am I going about this wrong? I'm just going to leave it be for now. But here's the thread, detailing what happened:
  16. Joevember

    BTA help

    I picked up a Flame RBTA (thats what the seller called it, idk) last saturday. I temp and drip acclimated it for about half an hour, then out it in my tank. It was looking fine before the lights went out. The next day it was shriveled up, and let out a brown string from its mouth, I assume it was nem poop. Today it is looking better, but it is still not nearly as inflated as it was when I first saw it. My question is: what should I be doing for it? I might try feeding half a krill tonight to help it out. Lighting is a radion xr15 at 50%. Nem is on a piece of candycane skeleton at the bottom of the tank. Flow is from an mp10, enough flow to have tentacles swaying.
  17. docshipwreck

    Lighting and BTA

    Does anyone have a NON HD prime and keeping a BTA? I have a biocube 14 and non hd prime and trying to find a successful program to keep my bta healthy ( currently residing higher in the tank) and not bring all the algae.
  18. My IM20: Who needs friends when you can have Anemones? I started my saltwater aquarium in June 2011 with a thirty gallon breeder and equipment that I bought second hand from a Kijiji advertisement. I have made a lot of mistakes over the years; the largest one has been allowing apathy takeover the maintenance of the system. In the fall of 2016, I decided that once my YWG passed on I was going to downsize my aquarium to either an IM10 or IM20 and dedicate it to the only thing really thriving in the aquarium – bubble tip anemones. People will tell you that BTAs need pristine water and no fluctuations in various levels to survive. Empirical evidence suggests that it isn’t necessarily true since my BTAs are thriving where other coral have not with nearly no water changes or testing. In regards to levels, I can’t tell you any specifics other than I always mixed my new water at a temperature of 26’C and to a specific gravity of 1.025. All of my test kits had expired even by fall of 2016 which might make you infer to the frequency their use. In setting up my new tank, I am using Seachem’s Ammonia Alert device, but eventually, I had to go buy an Ammonia test kit too. Sometime in January, I noticed that my YWG was no longer coming out during feeding time. He usually greeted me when I would walk up the aquarium. His face wore a grumpy scowl often mirroring my own which is something I always found endearing. After a few weeks of not seeing him at all, I figured he had passed on. It wasn’t a fantastic feeling realising he was gone, but I know he was an old fish. He was three inches when I acquired him so nearly grown then. He was my first saltwater fish and I had him since July 2011. I believe that is a fairly long time for that species. I ordered an IM10 and when it arrived, I got about getting it cycled. I had decided to use dry rock in this system again so I started out dosing ammonium chloride and MicroBacter7. When I was setting up the thirty gallon breeder, I ordered fifty pounds of Marco Rock from BRS. I wanted variety and since I live in Canada, I didn’t want to order twice. This left me with a lot of leftover rock sitting in a tote someplace in the basement. For this project, I ended up breaking up a bunch of the larger pieces to get a pile of rock that I was still not overly impressed with. Unfortunately, it is pretty hard if not impossible to get pukani reef rock here so I am just going with what I have. I really like the look of the rock in RockRynos tank as well. This thread is about my IM20, so why am I talking about the IM10? Well, I started the cycling process with the IM10 on the 1st of February but when I began toying with the aquascape; I realised the aquarium wasn’t going to be big enough for two clownfish and about twenty-four-ish anemones. Additionally, I came to the realisation that I don’t care for cube shaped aquariums. I decided to order the IM20 about a week later. I left the IM10 running thinking that the sand and water can still keep growing bacteria in the mean time. On the 25th of February, I transferred the sand and water from the IM10 to the IM20 and topped it up with saltwater. During this time I kept up with dosing MicroBacter7 and ammonium chloride to build up the bacteria in the sand and water. I also moved the filter floss from the IM10 to the IM20 for this purpose. Starting on the 13th of March, I began to add Seachem Stability as well. I am not sure if the tank was nearly cycled or that Stability works really well but by the 17th of March, ammonia was being processed very quickly. And by the 19th of March the tank was completely cycled. I had been soaking the Marco Rock that I planned to use in RODI water. I changed the water often thinking it would help leach out any Nitrates or Phosphates in the rock. On the 23rd of March I added the rock I plan to use in order for it to establish a bacterial film. This tank is going to focus primarily on symbiotic relationships with anemones but I will be keeping a few corals from my current setup. I am aware that the general theme and stocking list are not going to be accurate in terms of species which cohabitate in the wild. I had considered a biotope of the specific region where my BTAs would have been collected from but I have since passed on that idea. I am also considering expanding the fish selection to include a goby/pistol pair or a blenny. I have some barnacles that bought a few years ago which I could mount to the back wall. In that case, I would look for a small blenny that would occupy them. I will need to add more sand for the goby/pistol pair though. As for the corals, I have made a list below. I’m guessing on the Gorgonian identification but I am pretty confident that one is a purple brush gorgonian. Equipment: Innovative Marine Fusion Nano 20 Innovative Marine Custom Caddy Fusion 20 (x2) Innovative Marine FishGuard (x2) Cobalt Aquatics Neo-Therm 50W heater (sized for the IM10... so we shall see about this) Ink Bird ITC-308C temperature controller with removable probe CaribSea Arag-Alive Special Grade Reef Sand – 10 lb Marco Rock – some amount AquaForest Reef Salt Salifert NH3 ammonia test kit Seachem Ammonia Alert badge Dr. Tims Ammonium Chloride Brightwell MicroBacter7 Seachem Stability Livestock: Amphiprion ocellaris (captive bread) – QTY 2 (a male and female pair) Entacmaea quadricolor (All green with purple tips) – QTY 22+ Entacmaea quadricolor (Green and indigo base, red tentacles with orange-yellow tips) – QTY 6 Entacmaea quadricolor (Neon green base with white stripes, orange-yellow tentacles and with purple tips) – QTY 1 Tubastraea micrantha (Black Sun Coral – NPS) Pseudopterogorgia Sp. (Purple Willow Gorgonian)? Muriceopsis flavida (Purple Brush Gorgonian)? Favia Sp. (Christmas Favia) Snails? Crabs? Future stocking possibilities: Ancylomenes pedersoni (Pederson Cleaner Shrimp) Anclyomenes venustus (Venus Anemone shrimp) Periclimenes brevicarpalis (White Spot Anemone Shrimp) Neopetrolisthes ohshimai (Porcelain Anemone Crab) Pistol/goby pair or small blenny It is my hope that with twenty-five plus anemones, the clownfish won’t push the shrimp or crabs out. The female is quite aggressive so this will be a possibility; in that case, I will be sure to have some caves available.
  19. I have green BTA. She/He eats frozen pe mysis and krill. It also eats NLS pellets. What else can I feed it? I usually feed 2-3x/week but I don't want to overfeed and pollute my tank with nutrients, however, I also don't want to deprive the BTA of 'good' food sources.
  20. I have been feeding my BTA a little piece of frozen shrimp weekly. It accepts food from me but hasn't been looking as healthy as it was when I first purchased it. I'd like to feed it a good diet so I am looking for recommendations for: 1) best types of seafood to feed it 2) a good feeding schedule (BTA is about 2in in diameter) 3) any particular brands that I should look out for I'm asking for brand recommendations because I initially purchased a bag of frozen shrimp to feed the anemone. Since I only used one shrimp to feed the anemone, I cooked with the rest and realized that the quality was pretty bad (not very fresh tasting and also tasted of chlorine).
  21. bageezus


  22. I have a designer clownfish $80, anthias $20, 3 bubble tip anemone $5 for medium (left or right each) and $25 for the middle. PM me if interested. Pick up in West Los Angeles area only. Thanks.
  23. mitten_reef


    The original nem was bought as rose BTA, but it was never a solid pink/red color as a typical rose, always have the gradient of green base to orange mid/bubbles (when they occasionally form bubbles), and red tips. It since had grown and split multiple times. I had already traded in two to LFS in the past, and I now have these three BTAs sitting on a fairly large rock in my tank. The rock and all the nems are taking up too much real estate in the tank - need more room for my SPS. I want to keep just one nem for the clownfish. one nem $50; two nems $80. To prevent any injury, I'll break up the rock and give you the nem & whatever broken-off rock it's attached to. PM preferred. Might be able to meet in Grand Rapids, MI depending on timing. NO SHIPPING iPhone pic from this past weekend. a close-up shot from a little while back with real camera and some white balance
  24. rsucre

    BTA ID

    Hello, Can you help me ID this BTA? It looks orange-green to the eye under my lights (mostly actinics + white) and looks more reddish when the lights are off. It is very small, around 2". Looks healthy, has not moved since I got it a week ago, eats daily (small part of a freeze dried jumbo shrimp, small pellets and/or fauna marin coral pellets). My two perculas are not being hosted yet. I have seen names like: Sunburst, Lemon Drop, Rose, ... Which one is this?
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