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  1. Real-time Review Using VIBRANT, by Underwater Creations, Inc. This thread will not document a controlled scientific experiment by any means, but will be a real-time look at the treatment of two separate tanks of mine (a 40 gallon, and a 100 gallon with 40 gallon sump). I don't see Vibrant as a quick fix that will show results after only a few doses; but instead, I anticipate the process will take months. My main goal is to clear my tank of unwanted algae; so I'll likely be doing some manual removal and increased maintenance (potentially affecting the results). But in the end, I'd like this thread to demonstrate how this product affects both of these tanks. Also, keep in mind that every tank is different, so your mileage may vary. Available Reviews: This is not a new product by any means, and I've seen a number of positive videos like: Others have reported that it didn't work for them (like these reviews from respected Nano-Reef members, HarryPotter and Sancho). There is even a Vibrant thread (that was started by the manufacturer, on another site) that's 300+ pages long. But while reviewers may have gotten mixed results, I am looking forward to seeing if this helps either of my tanks. In this thread, I plan on sharing my real-time experience with using Vibrant, posting: opinions, impressions, relevant information, and pictures whenever possible. If you would like additional information or pictures, be sure to let me know. My Past Unsuccessful Attempts Using Other Methods: I'm not unlike everyone else in this hobby that has fought algae issues at one time or another. I've certainly tried manual removal, more herbivores, and nutrient restriction. I've even tried more radical approaches like hydrogen peroxide. Here's an attempt that I made using manual removal, rock scraping, and multiple hydrogen peroxide treatments. This FTS was taken in January 2016: The bag contains the algae which I manually removed. After two weeks of manual removal and multiple peroxide treatments, the improvements where undeniable. However, the closeup shows remnants of stubborn algae. I continued additional treatments, making even more progress; however, I eventually lost this battle and ended up fragging the remaining livestock off of the rocks. I'm sure a lot of you can sympathize. I'd hate to think about how many corals (and $$$) I've lost due to algae problems. Current Tanks Being Treated: Both of these are mature tanks with notable algae problems. Also, I've just completed a DrTim's Re-Fresh and Waste-Away regiment on the 40gal consisting of: Day 1: Wrap tank in black plastic. Turn off lights. Dose Re-Fresh. Day 2: Dose Re-Fresh. Day 3: Dose Re-Fresh. Day 4: Remove black plastic. Restart light cycle. Remove organic material. Add a 1/4 dose of Waste-Away. Day 5: Add a 1/4 dose of Waste-Away. Day 6: Add a 1/4 dose (or more) of Waste-Away. Day 7: Add a 1/4 dose (or more) of Waste-Away. Day 8: Add a 1/4 dose (or more) of Waste-Away. Day 9: Partial water change. The 100gal is currently on Day 6 of this same program. The 40gal utilizes a HOB skimmer, while the 100gal has an in-sump skimmer. For dosing purposes, I figure the 100gal tank, with its sump, has a total water volume of about 120 gallons. Here's the 40 gallon tank, taken on 9/21/20: And the 100 gallon tank, taken on 8/13/20: Note that both tanks have a good amount of decorative macroalgae. Obviously that's not the problem that I'm trying to solve. I will be removing the macro prior to dosing (taking some new pics to be used as a reference). Anticipated Potential Issues: Some people have reported large cyano blooms, loss of macroalgae, SPS tissue necrosis, and other losses. I speculate that SPS tissue loss could be due to a combination of low nutrient levels along with intense lighting and higher than NSW alkalinity levels. So I will attempt to monitor nutrient levels (and alkalinity) even though I don't keep acropora or other more difficult SPS corals. It is also recommended to maintain regular maintenance and not to overdose. As this video warns, at 2:19 into the video, overdosing Vibrant may cause a relatively rapid increase in organics: In addition, Underwater Creations states, "It can make your aquarium look so clean that you will think you can skip your regular routine aquarium maintenance of filter changes and water changes. We highly recommend that you do not skip this but that you use Vibrant in conjunction with your normal aquarium routine for a happy vibrant aquarium." I feel that this disclaimer is to encourage people to continue to export organics (including the additional organics caused by the breakdown of algae). I have stated in a number of threads, that I believe that the number one contributor of cyano is organics in the system (detritus on the rock and within the sand bed, as well as dissolved organics in the water column). Considering the potential amount of organics resulting from the breakdown of a large mass of algae, you can easily imagine why people have reported cyano blooms after dosing Vibrant. In addition, the breakdown of algae will also release substances which were previously taken up by the algae. It's possible that some of the negative effects, which have been reported, are due to the release of these potentially harmful substances. Treatment Plan: My plan is to dose the recommended amount twice weekly, on Mondays and Thursdays (with water changes prior to dosing). And while Underwater Creations indicates that there is no need to discontinue skimming after dosing, I plan to temporarily adjust each skimmer so that aeration is not interrupted but nothing is actually skimmed out of the system (as recommended with DrTim's bacterial products) for a few hours just after dosing. EDIT: I'll start with weekly dosing for three weeks, then switch to dosing twice a week starting on week four. Also, I ultimately decided not to disrupt skimming right after dosing. One 16oz bottle should be enough to treat both systems; but I purchased two just in case I wanted to continue dosing. And even though I read it was alright, I was still hesitant to have bacteria shipped during the winter months. The two 16oz bottles add up to 946ml; and I'll be using 16ml each time I dose both tanks. That provides for 59 doses for each tank. At two treatments per week, that's more than 29 weeks of dosing. I've seen where different kinds of algae take much longer to be affected; and even BRS's video seemed incomplete after a total of 9 weeks. So I should have enough to fully treat the algae, and even switch to maintenance dosing. Underwater Creations claims that the bacteria has a shelf life of well over a year, so I don't anticipate that will be an issue. I plan to monitor alkalinity, phosphate, and nitrate. I don't have a way to monitor dissolved organic matter; but as indicated above, I anticipate that control of organics will also be important. Prior to dosing, I plan to transfer most of the macroalgae to another tank. I may or may not decide to reintroduce the macroalgae after treatment is complete. I hope to start dosing my 40 gallon tank this week, with my 100 gallon tank following a few days later. I'll try to be transparent about the treatment methodology that I take, and the results achieved. Feel free to follow along in real time, and let me know if you have questions, or have a request for additional pics or information. Notes: The bottle states that Vibrant "BRIGHTENS AND CLEANS AQUARIUMS IN AS LITTLE AS 12 HOURS!" However, I feel that the bottle and website should state, as they have elsewhere: • Cloudy/hazy Water- 1 dose • Diatoms - 1-2 doses • Cyanobacteria - (Yes, it will outcompete another bacteria) 1-5 doses • Dinoflagellates - 2-5 doses • Bubble algae - 3-8 doses • Hair Algae - 3-5 doses (depending on species of hair and how bad the infestation is) • Turf Algae - 8-20 doses ( again, depending on species and how bad the infestation is) • Bryopsis - 6-30 doses ( again, depending on species and how bad the infestation is) Don't expect immediate results. Plus, the release of nutrients might even fuel additional algae blooms. Algae uptakes a lot more than just inorganic nutrients. Other contaminants may be bound by the algae (which can be suddenly released back into your system as algae is broken down). Unlike most meds and chemical treatments, use of activated carbon is recommended while dosing Vibrant, as dissolved organics, toxins, and other undesirables previously taken up by algae are being released as it's broken down. Use of a protein skimmer (set to wet skim) is recommended to help remove dissolved organics. I recommend that people perform a deep clean (removing organics from the sand bed and rocks where applicable) prior to dosing Vibrant. This might help the effectiveness of Vibrant, and will help you keep up with the additional organics produced from the breakdown of algae. Even though they claim that Vibrant treats cyano (and even dinos), reports of increased cyano blooms are relatively common. Maintaining nitrate at a minimum of 5 ppm (for cyano) and 0.03 ppm of phosphate (for dinos) is frequently recommended by other users. Personally, I feel that other methods are likely more effective at treating either cyano or dinos, and Vibrant is better suited for typical algae blooms. Nutrient testing is important while dosing, as the breakdown of algae can release nutrients. On the other hand, make sure that you keep up with the demand for nutrients (especially nitrate). Maintaining adequate nutrient levels is important while dosing Vibrant, and nutrient dosing might be necessary. Low nutrient levels can contribute to cyano and dinos; plus, along with high alkalinity and intense lighting, low nutrient levels are a recipe for SPS problems. Experienced aquarists may be better equipped to handle issues resulting from changes due to dosing Vibrant (which could require additional maintenance, testing, and dosing). Ingredients listed on the bottle: • 95% Cultured Bacteria Blend • 1% Amino Acids (Aspartic Acid) • 0.5% Vinegar • 3.5% Other Ingredients Conclusions: Reserved for post-treatment comments. I've noticed a decline in biodiversity (sponges, micro brittle stars, and pods). Due to similarities in dosing amounts, frequencies, side effects, and number of treatments required, assuming the ingredients listed on the label are accurate, I suspect that the "3.5% Other Ingredients" might be dimethyliminoethylene dichloride, ethoxylate (the algaecide used in products like API AlgaeFix). It is also known as: Poly[oxyethylene (dimethyliminio) ethylene(dimethyliminio) ethylene dichloride], Polyquaternium 42, or Polyquaternium WSCP, which is a cationic polymeric biocide (algaecide, fungicide, and bactericide); although it might not be as effective/destructive at recommended dosing levels. The post Vibrant plan is to reintroduce some biodiversity (phyto, bacteria, and pods). I'm hope all has not been wiped out and can recover. However, I'm hesitant to reintroduce new algae pests, so I plan to be careful.
  2. afcajax73

    Algae "Bloom" help required :(

    Morning all! (here at least) So if you've seen my tank thread, you'll probably know I'm having water issues and some nice algae... but! I've got a "proper" breakout now but I just can't seem to get it under control. I tested the following parameters last night: Temp: 26'C Salinity: 1.025 NO2: 0 NO3: 0 PO4: 0.01 dKH: 6 (This was way down at 3.5 but I'm slowly raising it using the Red Sea kit) Mag: 1470 Ca: 600 NH3/NH4: 0 I'm running a Prime HD with the following settings; on 20% acclimatisation mode, here's a few images of the tank with "lights off" last night, as you can see.. it's wild! I did a 30% water change yesterday, and plan on doing another Friday/Saturday. I'm wondering whether my test kit is WAY off and giving me false readings, and my params need lowering rather than raising, I tried to get my LFS test for me yesterday but due to the current situation and in an attempt to reduce the amount of people in there at any one time, they're offering limited services. I really don't want to go rushing out to buy a whole new load of test kits if I can avoid it, but I'm probably running out of options. In regard to CUC, I'm currently stocked with the following; 2x Algae hermits 1x Conch 3x Nassarius snails 2x Astrea 2x Rounded Turbo 4x Cerith 1x Cleaner Shrimp Live Stock/Coral: 2x Clowns 1x Royal Gramma 1x torch (3 heads) 1x hammer 2x BTA 1x Duncan (3x heads) 1x green star polyp 5x Kenya tree (was 1 but recently fragged down due to crazy growth) 7x various mushrooms! It's worth noting that I'm getting crazy amounts of coral growth, and they generally seem to be doing well. I had one head of my torch melt, but I've got a feeling that was due to damage rather than issues with my water, although I did wonder if it's grown so much recently (past 2-3 months) has it effectively starved its self and now it's melting away?! I think I've covered all the main parts, but if there's anything else you need to know please do let me know! Thanks in advance!
  3. Reefer-begginer

    Is this good?

    Currently in my 125g sump I have a Aqueon Nano LED light on it that is on pretty much 24/7. I'm wondering if the different algae i have building up in the sump is a good thing?. I have pink, green, red and orange algae growing all within the sump and its chambers. Should I turn the light off to let it die off or keep it as a added filtration method( biological )?
  4. May Ly

    Algae growing on plants

    I bought a Red Scarlett Temple and a Mondo Grass a few months ago, and noticed that algae started growing on them. It not string algae, it's a green algae that grows on the sides of tanks. I have a ten gallon and just wondering if I can clean it off or what algae eater would be the best to help. Let me know if you need more info. Not at home but I can take a pic later.
  5. Ben Hosaflook

    How to get rid of my algae?!

    Hey guys! So I've had a NUVO 10 Gallon going consistently for about 2 and a half years. It's had its ups and downs, but one thing I've struggled with was algae. In the beginning it was due to over-feeding/inconsistent water changes, but now I've got things down. Nitrates at like .025, phosphates at 0, nitrites and ammonia at 0. Only livestock I've got is one small clownfish and on nassarius snail. I feed a quarter of a block of mysis/week, sometimes just once every two weeks. I run filter floss (changed weekly), Chemipure Blue, a protein skimmer. I have an AI prime 16HD that I run about half power. HOW DO I GET THE DANG ALGAE GONE??? I'll manually pick off algae, use a toothbrush, but it always comes back. I've heard vibrant works well? should I shoot for that??? I'd love a tang, but obviously, in a 10 gallon, that's impossible, SO, are there any potential substitutes for a pretty small algae muncher???
  6. Hi All, I may be criticized for my methods here but I really need some help. I came over from freshwater tanks in the fall to start my first 10g nanoreef (approx. 9 months ago). It's had it's ups and downs, but I really like it and want to upgrade. My current setup is: 10g aqeon tank HOB Seachem Tidal 55 (with sponge, matrix, and phosguard pad) AI Prime 50w heater Hydor Koralia powehead (240gph) Cobalt Micro UV sterlilizer I want to upgrade to an IM 20 Fusion Pro but I have yet to master the 10g tank. I seem to have a constant battle with algae that never ends. Once a week a spend 1-2 hours with a turkey baster blowing off purple algae (cyano?) and sucking it off the sand bed (with some sand too) during my 30% water changes. I also have to constantly blow off my GSP (which is recovering from a temperature/equipment failure) maybe twice a week. I'm learning a lot as I go and it's been a little rocky since I jumped head first but 4 weeks ago I switched to RODI but no improvements, it still seems to be the same issue. My current parameters are: PH: 8.4 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrate .25 Ammonia 420 Calc 6 Alk (low, I know. I can't get it to stay higher for some reason) Phosphates: 0 1.027 salinity 77 degree water AI Prime running for approx. 11 hours. 3 of which are at its max for the day. Posting pic of schedule below. The levels are what it looks like during peak hours. High Range PH, Nitrate, Nitrite, and Ammonia all measured using API Freshwater Master Kit. Other measurements are using API kits as well. If I move to the 20g I would think about seeding dry rock with the rock I have now, but I don't want to "infect" the new tank with the algae and problems I have now. Any advice? I'm thinking the HOB filter is causing issues with the sponge catching detritus but nitrates are reading 0 so I'm not entirely sure that's the issue. I completely washout the sponge and filter every 3 weeks or so (future tank I plan on filter floss so I can just replace easily every week). Thanks in advanced.
  7. Over the past few months this yucky brown algae has been growing over my sand bed. Can anyone identify it? It’s kind of hairy in appearance if you look at it up close and it sticks the sand together. My nassarius snails avoid it and just stay in a clean corner of the tank. How do I get rid of it?
  8. Gagej12

    Algae Bloom Help

    Hi everyone , I recently had a pretty bad algae bloom. After trying various methods I eventually bought a UV sterilizer. Thankfully the sterilizer cleared the water up in hours. However I still have algae on the rocks and parts of the glass. Should I add to my clean up crew to help or just give it time. I also don’t want to run the sterilizer for too long because it’s only a 10g and I’m worried about killing off too much. Not too sure what to do and need advice.All water parameters checkout and livestock is all doing well also.
  9. Hi- I'm new to this forum. I had a nano reef tank 20 years ago and it flourished - we were constantly having to sell frags because they grew so fast! I just bought a set-up from someone that was moving. Things have changed so much in 20 yrs in the hobby! I have 3 questions I'm hoping to get answers about so I don't mess anything up. I got the tank in January and the coral are growing / spreading and the 2 clowns haven't died. It is a 10 gal fusion nano with nemo light and chaeto for filtration with powerhead and barebottom- no substrate. I add BRS 2 part everyday and weekly water change 25%. Parameters are all right on (from what I can tell). Cleaning crew are various snails (don't know what kind), blue leg crab and 2 red legs, tiny red brittle star. The photo is from Feb. My camera doesn't take very good photos - the tank has much more color than it shows. The previous owner did not do much to the tank- He said it was maintenance free - he let the chaeto do the work. I like doing the weekly water changes. Will this be okay with the chaeto? I'm leaving the chaeto light on about 15 hrs/day. I've had some brown filmy type algae with some string algae that I've been trying to get rid of. I started using a bit of the chemi-pure elite in back filter and it has helped a little - it's not getting any worse, but some of it just does not seem to want to go away. The coralline now seems like it is growing at a faster rate than the algae. I also probably feed corals and fish more frequently than the previous owner did. My next question is about the bb - I've tried to read online to see what is recommended and it seems to be split. He has a white board on the bottom that has some coralline and some of the brown fuzzy algae. I'm thinking of removing the board and adding in a Carib Sea aragonite crushed coral/sand substrate. I think it is what we used 20 yrs ago. The tank is tight with not lots of vacuuming room around the rocks. Do you think adding the sand will be a problem, keeping the detritus out and able to keep it clean? or will it help if the beneficial bacteria can grow in it? Last is about dividing up some of my coral that are getting really big. I have some Trumpet/candy cane and a Duncan that are outgrowing their space. Can I cut them in the tank or do I need to remove the rock from the tank - maybe use my bucket of saltwater from the water change and place rock in bucket to divide. I've divided the stylos, and the leather corals and polyps, but I've never divided these other 2. any info on these 3 questions would be greatly appreciated.
  10. I’ve got an outbreak of this in our tank: I’m not worried about the layer of green beneath. The fuzzy, fluffy brown stuff over that is what I’m worried about.
  11. 505nano

    Coraline?

    Hello and sorry to post this, I'm sure it's been posted many times, but can someone tell me if this is Coraline? Tank has been up since July of 2019. I know I've had a slight nitrate problem in the past, but all my other levels are consistent and where they should be. Thanks in advance!
  12. Toufiqul Islam

    Unidentified Species

    Dear all I am doing my thesis on this selected Marine species that haven't been identified. Literally I have no idea whether it is a Marine plant or invertebrate. There is no such related Marine Biologist or Marine Expert in our country whom I can seek assistance. So, I am desperately seeking your kind assistance to identify this species.
  13. Product Link: https://www.coralvue.com/icecap-turf-scrubber These updated units are already on the market and on retailer shelves (pricing unchanged), but we wanted to take a moment to share some of the changes that have been made to the IceCap Algae Turf Scrubbers because a lot of the inspiration came from the feedback of early adopters on forums like NR. We value the opinions of all hobbyists and sincerely appreciate everyone who cared enough to share their thoughts. You've really helped us to build a better product! If there are any early adopters reading this that have experienced an issue with your scrubber, we invite you to contact us at support@coralvue.com so we can help you out!Some of the changes we've made include: The spray bar is slotted now (rather than a bunch of small holes) which helps water flow evenly down the mesh screen. A spray bar cover was added to prevent algae from growing in the drain holes and clogging. Leak guards were added on the sides so no salt creep comes out of the spray bar. Red LEDs were added to the lights for better hair algae growth. Thumb-locking screws were added to lock the water inlet pipe in position. Here are some quick photos that show these changes:
  14. Anyone know what this algae is? Kind of looks like grass and I was thinking green hair algae but this doesn’t really match and I have had that in the past. It’s not on the rocks but it’s starting to pop up in the sand, maybe it’s bryopsis
  15. Without going into water Params, does this look like Dino’s or diatoms? There’s coralline, hair algae and then the brown all mixed together. On some rocks it looks like Dino’s, on the sand bed it looks like diatoms and on the glass it looks like all of it. My 20G Long has been a swing of issues over the last 3 yrs. Mostly green hair algae. But this brown crap has been going on for a little while now. Thanks a bunch!!!
  16. Today is the final day to enter for your chance to win an IceCap Algae Scrubber in the size of your choice!All you have to do to enter is sign up for our email newsletter.* Here's the link to do so: CoralVue Contest: Win an IceCap Algae Turf Scrubber! IceCap Algae Turf Scrubbers use algae as a natural water filter to remove nitrate, phosphate, and other pollutants from your aquarium water. Rather than having algae grow uncontrolled inside your display tank, an algae scrubber allows you to grow algae in a controlled setting where it can be easily removed—thereby removing contaminants from your tank in the process. This all-natural form of water filtration can reduce and even eliminate the need for water changes!*There is no purchase necessary to enter or win. Ends 11/15/19. Winner will be contacted by email on Monday 11/18/19. Open to legal residents of the US age 18 or older. Void where prohibited.
  17. SantaMonica

    The Best Algae Swamp Beast Face

    Who can do the best algae swamp beast face? On the left is my version, just to show you where the face is. You can take the one of the right and make your own version which will hopefully be better than mine.
  18. adam_ducote

    Unknown Algae

    Can someone identify this algae? I’m not sure what it is. It’s like string or strands of hair. Nitrates are at 10ppm. Salinity 1.026. Alk:9.2. Doing a water change tomorrow. Thanks!
  19. These little anemone looking things with white dots at the center and little fingers around it popped up all over my new live rock on the coralline algae. Anyone got an id? I can’t find anything online.
  20. These little anemone looking things with white dots at the center and little fingers around it popped up all over my new live rock on the coralline algae. Anyone got an id? I can’t find anything online.
  21. What is this brown film that’s covering parts of my sand? None of my clean up crew seems particularly interested in eating it. I tried to siphon it out but it was kinda heavy and didn’t want to get pulled out of the tank.
  22. i have a 32 gallon biocube with some astrias and a olive snail alongside eith a bhangai cardinalfish, blue damsal and a clown. ive begun to notice whats been causing this dark green algae type stuff on some of my liverock , i know liverock will have coraline growth but this cant be that its really dark green and looks soft to the touch any ideas ?
  23. Marine Depot

    Get Rid of Cyanobacteria and Algae

    Get Rid of Cyanobacteria and Algae A Recipe for Success from DrTim's Aquatics!
  24. Hi Folks, When I doing routine weekly maintenance on my tank yesterday, I noticed I have Green Bubble Algae in two places. Luckily, they aren't on any live rock and/or coral but are on the frag disk of each coral. They are also not very prominent. On one disk, I see 3 bubbles and the other one I spotted just one. I have read and understood that manual removal is the first and the easy way to do it. But I just wanted to confirm it with everyone here before I do so. Thoughts?
  25. NuisanceAlgaeCultivator

    Gulf Coast Green Stuff

    Anyone know what this is and if it’d be safe to put in a refugium or even the display tank? I live about two miles from the Gulf Coast Ocean in a small town right outside of Houston Texas. Was on my way to the fish store just to browse and decided to just look along the shoreline instead and found some seaweed or algae or something...not really sure how this is classified. I glued a patch to a rock just to get some scale and show how it floats when submerged and anchored. Where I live there’s TONS of the stuff and it pulls right off the rocks. Thanks!
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