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  1. Real-time review using Vibrant, by Underwater Creations, Inc. This thread will not document a controlled scientific experiment by any means, but will be a real-time look at the treatment of two separate tanks of mine (a 40 gallon, and a 100 gallon with 40 gallon sump). I don't see Vibrant as a quick fix that will show results after only a few doses; but instead, I anticipate the process will take months. My main goal is to clear my tank of unwanted algae; so I'll likely be doing some manual removal and increased maintenance (potentially affecting the results). But in the end, I'd like this thread to demonstrate how this product affects both of these tanks. Also, keep in mind that every tank is different, so your mileage may vary. Available Reviews: This is not a new product by any means, and I've seen a number of positive videos like: Others have reported that it didn't work for them (like these reviews from respected Nano-Reef members, HarryPotter and Sancho). There is even a Vibrant thread (that was started by the manufacturer, on another site) that's 300+ pages long. But while reviewers may have gotten mixed results, I am looking forward to seeing if this helps either of my tanks. In this thread, I plan on sharing my real-time experience with using Vibrant, posting: opinions, impressions, relevant information, and pictures whenever possible. If you would like additional information or pictures, be sure to let me know. My Past Unsuccessful Attempts Using Other Methods: I'm not unlike everyone else in this hobby that has fought algae issues at one time or another. I've certainly tried manual removal, more herbivores, and nutrient restriction. I've even tried more radical approaches like hydrogen peroxide. Here's an attempt that I made using manual removal, rock scraping, and multiple hydrogen peroxide treatments. This FTS was taken in January 2016: The bag contains the algae which I manually removed. After two weeks of manual removal and multiple peroxide treatments, the improvements where undeniable. However, the closeup shows remnants of stubborn algae. I continued additional treatments, making even more progress; however, I eventually lost this battle and ended up fragging the remaining livestock off of the rocks. I'm sure a lot of you can sympathize. I'd hate to think about how many corals (and $$$) I've lost due to algae problems. Current Tanks Being Treated: Both of these are mature tanks with notable algae problems. Also, I've just completed a DrTim's Re-Fresh and Waste-Away regiment on the 40gal consisting of: Day 1: Wrap tank in black plastic. Turn off lights. Dose Re-Fresh. Day 2: Dose Re-Fresh. Day 3: Dose Re-Fresh. Day 4: Remove black plastic. Restart light cycle. Remove organic material. Add a 1/4 dose of Waste-Away. Day 5: Add a 1/4 dose of Waste-Away. Day 6: Add a 1/4 dose (or more) of Waste-Away. Day 7: Add a 1/4 dose (or more) of Waste-Away. Day 8: Add a 1/4 dose (or more) of Waste-Away. Day 9: Partial water change. The 100gal is currently on Day 6 of this same program. The 40gal utilizes a HOB skimmer, while the 100gal has an in-sump skimmer. For dosing purposes, I figure the 100gal tank, with its sump, has a total water volume of about 120 gallons. Here's the 40 gallon tank, taken on 9/21/20: And the 100 gallon tank, taken on 8/13/20: Note that both tanks have a good amount of decorative macroalgae. Obviously that's not the problem that I'm trying to solve. I will be removing the macro prior to dosing (taking some new pics to be used as a reference). Anticipated Potential Issues: Some people have reported large cyano blooms, loss of macroalgae, SPS tissue necrosis, and other losses. I speculate that SPS tissue loss could be due to a combination of low nutrient levels along with intense lighting and higher than NSW alkalinity levels. So I will attempt to monitor nutrient levels (and alkalinity) even though I don't keep acropora or other more difficult SPS corals. It is also recommended to maintain regular maintenance and not to overdose. As this video warns, at 2:19 into the video, overdosing Vibrant may cause a relatively rapid increase in organics: In addition, Underwater Creations states, "It can make your aquarium look so clean that you will think you can skip your regular routine aquarium maintenance of filter changes and water changes. We highly recommend that you do not skip this but that you use Vibrant in conjunction with your normal aquarium routine for a happy vibrant aquarium." I feel that this disclaimer is to encourage people to continue to export organics (including the additional organics caused by the breakdown of algae). I have stated in a number of threads, that I believe that the number one contributor of cyano is organics in the system (detritus on the rock and within the sand bed, as well as dissolved organics in the water column). Considering the potential amount of organics resulting from the breakdown of a large mass of algae, you can easily imagine why people have reported cyano blooms after dosing Vibrant. In addition, the breakdown of algae will also release substances which were previously taken up by the algae. It's possible that some of the negative effects, which have been reported, are due to the release of these potentially harmful substances. Treatment Plan: My plan is to dose the recommended amount twice weekly, on Mondays and Thursdays (with water changes prior to dosing). And while Underwater Creations indicates that there is no need to discontinue skimming after dosing, I plan to temporarily adjust each skimmer so that aeration is not interrupted but nothing is actually skimmed out of the system (as recommended with DrTim's bacterial products) for a few hours just after dosing. EDIT: I'll start with weekly dosing for three weeks, then switch to dosing twice a week starting on week four. Also, I ultimately decided not to disrupt skimming right after dosing. One 16oz bottle should be enough to treat both systems; but I purchased two just in case I wanted to continue dosing. And even though I read it was alright, I was still hesitant to have bacteria shipped during the winter months. The two 16oz bottles add up to 946ml; and I'll be using 16ml each time I dose both tanks. That provides for 59 doses for each tank. At two treatments per week, that's more than 29 weeks of dosing. I've seen where different kinds of algae take much longer to be affected; and even BRS's video seemed incomplete after a total of 9 weeks. So I should have enough to fully treat the algae, and even switch to maintenance dosing. Underwater Creations claims that the bacteria has a shelf life of well over a year, so I don't anticipate that will be an issue. I plan to monitor alkalinity, phosphate, and nitrate. I don't have a way to monitor dissolved organic matter; but as indicated above, I anticipate that control of organics will also be important. Prior to dosing, I plan to transfer most of the macroalgae to another tank. I may or may not decide to reintroduce the macroalgae after treatment is complete. I hope to start dosing my 40 gallon tank this week, with my 100 gallon tank following a few days later. I'll try to be transparent about the treatment methodology that I take, and the results achieved. Feel free to follow along in real time, and let me know if you have questions, or have a request for additional pics or information. Notes: The bottle states that Vibrant "BRIGHTENS AND CLEANS AQUARIUMS IN AS LITTLE AS 12 HOURS!" However, I feel that the bottle and website should state, as they have elsewhere: • Cloudy/hazy Water- 1 dose • Diatoms - 1-2 doses • Cyanobacteria - (Yes, it will outcompete another bacteria) 1-5 doses • Dinoflagellates - 2-5 doses • Bubble algae - 3-8 doses • Hair Algae - 3-5 doses (depending on species of hair and how bad the infestation is) • Turf Algae - 8-20 doses ( again, depending on species and how bad the infestation is) • Bryopsis - 6-30 doses ( again, depending on species and how bad the infestation is) Don't expect immediate results. Plus, the release of nutrients might even fuel additional algae blooms. Algae uptakes a lot more than just inorganic nutrients. Other contaminants may be bound by the algae (which can be suddenly released back into your system as algae is broken down). Unlike most meds and chemical treatments, use of activated carbon is recommended while dosing Vibrant, as dissolved organics, toxins, and other undesirables previously taken up by algae are being released as it's broken down. Use of a protein skimmer (set to wet skim) is recommended to help remove dissolved organics. I recommend that people perform a deep clean (removing organics from the sand bed and rocks where applicable) prior to dosing Vibrant. This might help the effectiveness of Vibrant, and will help you keep up with the additional organics produced from the breakdown of algae. Even though they claim that Vibrant treats cyano (and even dinos), reports of increased cyano blooms are relatively common. Maintaining nitrate at a minimum of 5 ppm (for cyano) and 0.03 ppm of phosphate (for dinos) is frequently recommended by other users. Personally, I feel that other methods are likely more effective at treating either cyano or dinos, and Vibrant is better suited for typical algae blooms. Nutrient testing is important while dosing, as the breakdown of algae can release nutrients. On the other hand, make sure that you keep up with the demand for nutrients (especially nitrate). Maintaining adequate nutrient levels is important while dosing Vibrant, and nutrient dosing might be necessary. Low nutrient levels can contribute to cyano and dinos; plus, along with high alkalinity and intense lighting, low nutrient levels are a recipe for SPS problems. Experienced aquarists may be better equipped to handle issues resulting from changes due to dosing Vibrant (which could require additional maintenance, testing, and dosing). Ingredients listed on the bottle: • 95% Cultured Bacteria Blend • 1% Amino Acids (Aspartic Acid) • 0.5% Vinegar • 3.5% Other Ingredients Conclusions: Reserved for post-treatment comments and pictures (treatments are currently ongoing) I've noticed a dramatic decline in biodiversity (sponges, micro brittle stars, pods, and even flatworms); although it's unclear whether this is due to a lack of food or something else. Assuming the ingredients which are listed on the label are accurate (and taking into account the similarities in dosing amounts, frequencies, side effects, and number of treatments required), I now suspect that the "3.5% Other Ingredients" might be dimethyliminoethylene dichloride, ethoxylate (which is the algaecide used in products like API AlgaeFix). It is also known as: Poly[oxyethylene (dimethyliminio) ethylene(dimethyliminio) ethylene dichloride], or Polyquaternium 42, or Polyquaternium WSCP; this chemical is a cationic polymeric biocide (algaecide, fungicide, and bactericide) when used in higher concentrations. My post Vibrant plan is to reintroduce some biodiversity (phyto, bacteria, and pods). I hope that not all the biodiversity has been wiped out, and populations can eventually recover. Going forward, I plan to be very careful not to reintroduce new algae pests.
  2. I’ve got an outbreak of this in our tank: I’m not worried about the layer of green beneath. The fuzzy, fluffy brown stuff over that is what I’m worried about.
  3. Hi, I have a 20 gallon tank cycled a few weeks ago. Regarding "Is sandbed clean a must?" the reason i ask is i have limited exposed sandbed after putting my toadstool on sand and will be adding a fungia in the future. It will be very hard to clean the sandbed without touching other corals. I have 2 clownfish and wont add any more fish. I also have a nassarius snail (which doesnt stir the sandbed) and a trochus snail and i dont think ill add anymore CUC as both are starved.... I'm doing 5% daily auto water change and dose only baking soda, can i get away without cleaning the sandbed? and what are the signs i would observe if the sand get way too dirty? Then it comes to the second question, how can i grow algae? i mean algae in general cuz i have starving trochus snail thats currently isolated on a flat rock and fed on dried seaweed. My water params: temp 25 ℃ salinity 1.025 sg ammonia 0 nitrite 0 nitrate 7ppm phosphate 0.06ppm ca 415ppm mg 1300ppm alkalinity 8.4 dKh ph 8.1 I have my light on 12 hours a day at ~33W for a week now but theres zero algae....my best guess is not enough white light? more details and timeline is in my build thread. Thanks
  4. Hi Everyone! This is my first post on this site I think so excuse me for any issues with formatting. A few months ago I kind of went on autopilot with my tank since I moved to Philadelphia and reef stores are no longer a thing. Stocking and Equipment I have a 10G tank, no sand, has been running for about a year. It's lit by an AI prime 16HD running all of the blue channels around 70 percent and the cool white channel at about 5 percent for 3 hours a day. Total light is on for probably about 8 hours a day. Flow is provided by the smaller Nero and another small hyger power head. There is also an ATO (water is provided by an RODI unit) Stocking is many zoas, small torch head, a few more LPS, a leather, a clownfish, a cleaner shrimp, a few snails and a single very happy millipora. I'm sure I'm missing a few random coral, no huge colonies though. Parameters To be honest since I do 50% water changes weekly, I decided not to invest too much into testing. I do have Hannah checkers for alkalinity and calcium, but that's about it. I also know testing for phosphates during an outbreak isn't very useful as GHA likely uptakes most phosphates The Problem I cannot get rid of GHA! I cleaned most of it manually and using some hydrogen peroxide on a few rocks and brushed most of it off, the main rock I scrubbed with H2O2 regrew GHA within a week. I only feed a few pellets every 2-3 days to my clown and shrimp so nutrients should not be high... water reads 0 TDS.... any help would be appreciated!
  5. Hi, So I have a 29 gallon tank that recently completed the cycle and I have now developed what I believe are diatoms. I had only very slight brownish orange growth on a very small corner of the tank of Friday and went out of town over the weekend. When I returned Sunday I found the algae had spread over most of the rock, sand, and on some of the glass. I know I read diatom blooms are common on a new tank after cycling, but I'd like to add some snails (I currently have none) to help clean it up. I currently have 3 hermits crabs that appear to be eating it, but they aren't making a dent. I'm looking to add some cerith, trochus, and astrea snails as I read they will all eat diatoms, but would like to see how many I should get. Also on a second note my ph has maintained a consistent 8.0 ph since I set the tank up and first started testing; however, when I checked this morning my ph was down to 7.4. Is this due to the algae growth?
  6. BGJames

    Algae on glass

    After some advice regarding my 110l reef. Tank has been set up a year now an houses 2 clowns and some cuc. Haven't added anything since March and have kept feeding the same amount. I'm running Berlin method with a Tunze 9001 and just recently I'm getting a dusty kind of algae growing on the glass much, much quicker than usual. It would hardly be noticeable after a week but now it's back within a day or so. The skimmer has also gone from being needed to be emptied 1x p/w to 2 or 3 times a week. The skimmer looks like its removing just water now even though I cleaned it on Sunday. Any ideas? Tia.
  7. jefferythewind

    Crazy Algae Issue

    I'd say I'm about an intermediate level reefer by now. My 29 gallon has been set up for about 16 months. By asking on this forum a while back I realized that my phosphate levels where very low. That was a few months ago. Since then I have been dosing NeoPhos for phosphate, since it kept dropping back toward zero quickly, so I would dose every day. I also started dosing some coral food with trace elements maybe 6 weeks ago. Also over the past 5 months I have added 3 fish, since I only had 3 to begin with, in hopes I could increase the phosphate levels "naturally". What I have noticed is that the corals seem to love the higher nutrient levels. Since learning how to test and dose Alk/Ca/Mg, Phosphate and Nitrate, and keeping the phosphate levels around 0.1, the corals have been doing great. I have a bonsai acro that has been in the tank for about 6 weeks or more, and has grown nicely around the base and continues to have good colors. A red monti which didn't do anything for about 6 months has finally started growing, and looks good. All the corals look good and have been growing quickly, especially the japanese toadstool and green montipora. OK, so now I'm starting to get all different sorts of algae covering the floor and pieces of live rock. I always had little specks here and there of algea, a bubble or 2, but now its like gross looking algae, and there are different kinds. Pretty sure there is some cyanobacteria in there too. I have been changing water every 3-4 days, I will continue to do that to try to control it. I am also lightening up on the nutrient dosing since I do see phosphates at the highest that I have tested ( 0.16 ), and nitrates seem to maybe be higher than 10, which hasn't happened so much before, but I never had a problem with nitrates going to zero. They seemed to stay around 5 for the most part but haven't tested so much recently. I'm afraid to stop dosing the nutrients since the corals seemed to have liked it so much, and previously i have had problems killing corals. I feel like I'm in a pickle. Does anyone know any good into regarding this algae, should I be concerned? As we can see though the higher rocks are still clean and even though there is some algae growing on the base of the hammer, it doesn't seem to mind.
  8. So, it’s been a long while since I’ve posted, and a lot has happened, most prominently, a persistent outbreak of hair algae and what I believe is Cyanobacteria (red-ish looking slime on a small part of my sand bed). I was informed that this was still part of the “ugly stage”, since my tank really isn’t that old quite yet. However, it has lasted since late March and I am noticing increasing problems arising with the outbreak, not all of them directly related to the algae, so I might need to make more posts to cover them all. The hair algae is the worst part- it’s unsightly and impossible to remove from the rock and it grew on the glass in a place that is also impossible to scrape off. I have also noticed some sort of strange creature that I may need to make another post on once I get good pictures. In short, all I can really see of it are these very long stringy tentacles that retract when disturbed. It doesn’t look like any pictures I have seen of anemones, but I can’t be sure. My trochus snails are dying. Just last weekend, I noticed that both of them were flipping over regularly, something that they never did before. They seem weak and their foot is irritated. This may be unrelated but I also have a large ricordea Florida in the tank that looks very bright and healthy accept for some weird white protrusions of tissue on its foot ending in little bristles. So what is your input? Are all these issues somehow connected? I have thought about some possible issues: bad source water, high nitrates, low calcium, problems with flow/light, dirty filtration, over feeding Here are the steps I have taken: water changes, parameter testing (as far as I can tell, everything is fine), bacteria dosing, Vibrant Aquarium Cleaner, lawnmower blenny, new filtration media, decrease lighting What I want to do: Replace carbon and evaluate filtration conditions, purchase new test kits, and I don’t know what I would do when all that fails Let me know if you need pictures or if you think I should create separate posts for some of the specific issues I have mentioned. That was a lot, but I have avoided posting about this for too long and need some solutions. Although I have a lot of problems with my tank, I don’t really fear a total collapse, but the little things can contribute to disaster in the future, so I was just concerned.
  9. Broseff

    Pest Tank

    Alright, so I'm trying to figure out how to setup a saltwater "tank" that is as little maintance as possible. I have another thread up where I'm trying to use macros similar to how FW tanks use plants, but this tank is just for things that people can't seem to get rid of. I'm hoping that pests and nuissance algae will survive me taking little to care of them. For the last month I've been using a Gelato container (less than 16oz) to house aiptasia and valonia. So far everything has been fine: The valnia does need dosing though. Aiptasia goes through sad periods where it doesn't open up. I don't test anything other than water salinity. I tried adding amphipods, I don't know where they are anymore (probably eaten?). I'll be updating the "tank" to be a little less than a quarter of a gallon. I post pics when the water clears. I would love to get some majano anemone and ball-tip anemone. I'll try adding asterina starfish and maybe some detravores too (most likely bristle worms? they might get too big though). Pest suggestions are welcome!
  10. Broseff

    What is this?

    I used dry rock in my tank, and didn't purposefully add any coralline algae, so I don't think it's that. Maybe it's Cyano? Anybody know?
  11. Hello, I recently just set up a 55 gallon. I started cycling my tank a week ago, i’m using a mix of Seachem Stability, A live fish, and live rocks used from my buddies tank thats been established for years. As of now my ammonia is still reading safe. But i have ALOT of different algae, green but mainly nasty brown. Is this normal? I’m using fluval 407 canister, and a fluval 3.0 marine light.
  12. ethanhh

    100% Water Change

    Hey there, I need some advice. For the pass month my fluval evo 13.5 has had some problems. I brought it home from college in November. I have no clue what it is. My assumption is that its an algae bloom, but that means it should have gone away by now. I tried dosing MB7 and my LFS told me to take out all the reds, whites, greens and yellows from my light. I have no idea what to do next. I was thinking what if i do a 100% water change and drip acclimate all of my coral and fish back in. I wanted to reach out to everyone on this form to get a second opinion. If there’s any other recommendations I am very glad to listen. I do a water change every week and change out my carbon along with it. Please HELP.
  13. Broseff

    FW vs SW

    I'm not like new new, but I definetly haven't been doing SW long enough. I've noticed in my general findings, research, and experience (only like 1-2 years of SW) that SW tanks are much harder to maintain in general than FW. And I do mean this in a general sense, so like FW vs SW in general (I don't mean FOWL FW tanks vs SW tanks with coral specifically, incase anyone thought that). It seems like SW tanks battle with nuissance algae a lot more than FW tanks. I've seen plenty of FW tanks with just spongefilters running and little to no problems with algae, but I can't say the same for SW. Is there any particular reason for this? Do SW tanks just have a more complex mix of nutrients than FW (which make it harder to balance/maintain things)?
  14. Tferr9599

    New nano set up pest?

    Hello, I am new to this forum, and new to nano reefing in general. I’ve just recently finished setting up a new tank that is still in the process of cycling. It’s been running for about four weeks, I have not put any fish or corals in it yet, the only thing I’ve put in it is live rock from my LFS. Yet somehow I am getting this odd brown growth (which I am guessing is some form of algae?), that is now covering a lot of the sand and rock (which started out totally white) See pictures. Any idea what that is?? Cant be ammonia related. Also, just found found the critter in the second pic, he must have hitch-hiked in the live rock. Looks like a tiny snail without a shell but dont really know. Ok to leave in, or should I get rid of it? Thank you in advance!
  15. Hello nano-reef community I recently made my dream transition from fresh to saltwater. My setup is a 14gallon (52L) IM peninsula with dry rock and live sand on day 34. The current equipment on the tank is an ato, biopure gems and recently added my skimmer to begin nutrient export and breaking it in. Lighting also got turned on recently for 6hrs a day, AI Prime 16hd. I am also running floss right now. I also make my own ro/di water and there is also no fish yet. Cycled with Dr.Tims+Ammonia and supplemented with microbacter7. Also covered the tank for 3 weeks with lowered salinity and raised temp to grow the beneficial bacteria. Levels: NH3/4: 0 N02: 0.25 N03: 10 Phosphate: 0.0 My question is about identifying the growth that is on my entire tank(-sand)(it was on the glass but recently cleaned it, doesnt look malicious but i want to know if i should take action. Some forums i have found suggest it might simply be the bacteria, as it is slimy to the touch. Or that it might be bryozoans or foram, or possibly hydroids. They are invisible until you get close, they are tiny white growths that move in the water flow, i will attach some images and a video. Have I just been successful in colonizing the bacteria (and it will die off with time and scavenging) or is this a pest i should take action against?
  16. Iamdasauce

    Algae I.D. Needed

    Good Afternoon, I went on a vacation for a week and when I came back, my tank was covered in this Algae. It sways in the water which makes me think it is some sort of Hair Algae. Could someone please confirm and give some advice on what to do to remove it? I have been reducing light and majorly reducing feeding to little or no effect. Thank you,
  17. Blenard the Blenny

    Is this coralline algae?

    Hello all, new to the forums. Have had my nanocube 24G for about 3 years. Had some ups, some downs 😕 Attached are a few pictures, my camera isn't the greatest, but can anyone tell me if what's on the glass and background is coralline algae? I understand it's a sign of good things (even though my blenny, Blenny Kravitz, passed while it was growing). I scraped a bit of it, you can see in the 3rd picture, and it's tough but can be scraped with a credit card or something similar, I used my nail. If it is, could i scrape it and just let it float in the tank to spread it? I just did a 5% water change last night, as well a changing my media (new activated carbon, washed bioballs and ceramic rings). And I'm working on that green hair algae, I think it's a phosphate issue so I picked up rowaphos to try. I didn't get a chance to pick it up until today, so I missed doing it during the water change last night, but I'll probably throw it in tonight. Awesome forum BTW, love this site.
  18. boogeydownbrown

    Help identify?

    So I have a almost 3week out 10gallon leader. Im new so just figured I would ask, is this the start of new tank syndrome? or should I actually be worried. Also a help with what this is would be awesome, Thank you!
  19. Was wondering what this white stuff is all over my aquarium, attaching a photo. I have a 30 gallon tank with under gravel filter, 250 model biowheel filter, and also a UV sterilizer light that treats up to 50 gallons, which they say to leave the UV off for now because the tank is new... I'm not sure if this is it in this video or not: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eVYs4VtZUD0 It doesn't seem to be affecting the fish at all, I do have some snails and a lobster (Australian Yabby), and a Pleco in here so was hoping they would eat it... I saw someone recommended Seachem on one site, I do have an anti fungal, but I only used it once and it turned the whole aquarium green for a day and then cleared up. I saw adding Hydrogen Peroxide even could help in small doses. But I just want to make sure what I'm dealing with first... What I've vacummed out with a suction over the weekend has already grown back. Thanks, Matt
  20. Morning all! (here at least) So if you've seen my tank thread, you'll probably know I'm having water issues and some nice algae... but! I've got a "proper" breakout now but I just can't seem to get it under control. I tested the following parameters last night: Temp: 26'C Salinity: 1.025 NO2: 0 NO3: 0 PO4: 0.01 dKH: 6 (This was way down at 3.5 but I'm slowly raising it using the Red Sea kit) Mag: 1470 Ca: 600 NH3/NH4: 0 I'm running a Prime HD with the following settings; on 20% acclimatisation mode, here's a few images of the tank with "lights off" last night, as you can see.. it's wild! I did a 30% water change yesterday, and plan on doing another Friday/Saturday. I'm wondering whether my test kit is WAY off and giving me false readings, and my params need lowering rather than raising, I tried to get my LFS test for me yesterday but due to the current situation and in an attempt to reduce the amount of people in there at any one time, they're offering limited services. I really don't want to go rushing out to buy a whole new load of test kits if I can avoid it, but I'm probably running out of options. In regard to CUC, I'm currently stocked with the following; 2x Algae hermits 1x Conch 3x Nassarius snails 2x Astrea 2x Rounded Turbo 4x Cerith 1x Cleaner Shrimp Live Stock/Coral: 2x Clowns 1x Royal Gramma 1x torch (3 heads) 1x hammer 2x BTA 1x Duncan (3x heads) 1x green star polyp 5x Kenya tree (was 1 but recently fragged down due to crazy growth) 7x various mushrooms! It's worth noting that I'm getting crazy amounts of coral growth, and they generally seem to be doing well. I had one head of my torch melt, but I've got a feeling that was due to damage rather than issues with my water, although I did wonder if it's grown so much recently (past 2-3 months) has it effectively starved its self and now it's melting away?! I think I've covered all the main parts, but if there's anything else you need to know please do let me know! Thanks in advance!
  21. Reefer-begginer

    Is this good?

    Currently in my 125g sump I have a Aqueon Nano LED light on it that is on pretty much 24/7. I'm wondering if the different algae i have building up in the sump is a good thing?. I have pink, green, red and orange algae growing all within the sump and its chambers. Should I turn the light off to let it die off or keep it as a added filtration method( biological )?
  22. I bought a Red Scarlett Temple and a Mondo Grass a few months ago, and noticed that algae started growing on them. It not string algae, it's a green algae that grows on the sides of tanks. I have a ten gallon and just wondering if I can clean it off or what algae eater would be the best to help. Let me know if you need more info. Not at home but I can take a pic later.
  23. Ben Hosaflook

    How to get rid of my algae?!

    Hey guys! So I've had a NUVO 10 Gallon going consistently for about 2 and a half years. It's had its ups and downs, but one thing I've struggled with was algae. In the beginning it was due to over-feeding/inconsistent water changes, but now I've got things down. Nitrates at like .025, phosphates at 0, nitrites and ammonia at 0. Only livestock I've got is one small clownfish and on nassarius snail. I feed a quarter of a block of mysis/week, sometimes just once every two weeks. I run filter floss (changed weekly), Chemipure Blue, a protein skimmer. I have an AI prime 16HD that I run about half power. HOW DO I GET THE DANG ALGAE GONE??? I'll manually pick off algae, use a toothbrush, but it always comes back. I've heard vibrant works well? should I shoot for that??? I'd love a tang, but obviously, in a 10 gallon, that's impossible, SO, are there any potential substitutes for a pretty small algae muncher???
  24. Hi All, I may be criticized for my methods here but I really need some help. I came over from freshwater tanks in the fall to start my first 10g nanoreef (approx. 9 months ago). It's had it's ups and downs, but I really like it and want to upgrade. My current setup is: 10g aqeon tank HOB Seachem Tidal 55 (with sponge, matrix, and phosguard pad) AI Prime 50w heater Hydor Koralia powehead (240gph) Cobalt Micro UV sterlilizer I want to upgrade to an IM 20 Fusion Pro but I have yet to master the 10g tank. I seem to have a constant battle with algae that never ends. Once a week a spend 1-2 hours with a turkey baster blowing off purple algae (cyano?) and sucking it off the sand bed (with some sand too) during my 30% water changes. I also have to constantly blow off my GSP (which is recovering from a temperature/equipment failure) maybe twice a week. I'm learning a lot as I go and it's been a little rocky since I jumped head first but 4 weeks ago I switched to RODI but no improvements, it still seems to be the same issue. My current parameters are: PH: 8.4 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrate .25 Ammonia 420 Calc 6 Alk (low, I know. I can't get it to stay higher for some reason) Phosphates: 0 1.027 salinity 77 degree water AI Prime running for approx. 11 hours. 3 of which are at its max for the day. Posting pic of schedule below. The levels are what it looks like during peak hours. High Range PH, Nitrate, Nitrite, and Ammonia all measured using API Freshwater Master Kit. Other measurements are using API kits as well. If I move to the 20g I would think about seeding dry rock with the rock I have now, but I don't want to "infect" the new tank with the algae and problems I have now. Any advice? I'm thinking the HOB filter is causing issues with the sponge catching detritus but nitrates are reading 0 so I'm not entirely sure that's the issue. I completely washout the sponge and filter every 3 weeks or so (future tank I plan on filter floss so I can just replace easily every week). Thanks in advanced.
  25. Over the past few months this yucky brown algae has been growing over my sand bed. Can anyone identify it? It’s kind of hairy in appearance if you look at it up close and it sticks the sand together. My nassarius snails avoid it and just stay in a clean corner of the tank. How do I get rid of it?
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