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TANK: 45g Shallow LIGHTING: 24" Reef Breeders V2+ w/2 Sunblaster T5's (ATI blue+ and ATI coral+) CONTROLLER: Apex Classic ATO: Tunze Osmolator FRESHWATER CONTAINER: Stock Cadlights 3 gallon POWERHEAD: Vortech MP-10QD RETURN PUMP: Reef Octopus VarioS-2 HEATER: (2) Ehiem 100w SKIMMER: Reef Octopus Classic 110s SUMP: Stock Cadlights 25 gallons (maybe) PLUMBING: Custom by yours truly. Added ball valves, check valve and break out unions. Bulk Reef Supply red pipe with grey and white fittings. I used 40lb of Billy's Reef Connection dry rock. For the cleaning method I used 1 week in RO/DI and bleach (10 gallons of water to 1 gallon of bleach). After that was 1 week in RO/DI and I added Seachem Prime twice. Then they dried out for 3 days in the sun before adding to tank. The rocks are said to have been "lab tested" and showed just trace amounts of phosphorus in the results so I trusted him and chose to not do muratic acid cure or the 2-3 months in Saltwater with GFO and water changes. Time will tell if I made a mistake or not. The sand bed is 30lbs of dry sand. I used Caribsea flamingo reef which was rinsed for about 1.5 hours until the water ran clear. So as of today the cycling process has been going on for 1 week. It's the usual......Lights off, skimmer off and 2 ppm of Dr. Tim's ammonia once and Dosing of Microbacter7 every day for the first 2 weeks and then wait. You know the drill............ i'll also be ditching the peg legs holding up my light right now. I just haven't bought the galvanized piping to build my own little arms to hang it from. FUTURE UPGRADES: Lighting for chaeto in the sump Salinity Probe and proper Apex module to run it More flow FTS: 11/14/18 FTS: 12/22/18