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Found 6 results

  1. AshleyH

    Light schedule for Biocube 32

    Hi all, I have some questions about lighting. I started my 32 G Biocube in October and everything has gone decently well so far. I've never had any aquarium before. I feel that I've grasped most concepts regarding reef keeping, however lighting is an area I can't seem to wrap my head around. Recently our brain coral has been pretty closed (ever since my husband decreased the # of hours the lights are on). It got me thinking the light schedule must be wrong. I've read to keep all 3 lights on for about 10 hours/day with a ramp up/down of the LC2 (sunrise/sunset) channel and ending with the LC3 (blue) for a few more hours before total darkness. This is not what I've been doing. I had my 2 white lights on for about 8-10hr/day then blue on for another 5 or so at night. If anyone has personal experience with their 32 gallon Biocube, which has the 3 different light stages (blue/moonlight, bright white, and color enhancing) LEDs, please share your light schedule if you feel you've had success with coral growth and survival. It would be nice to have a few opinions. I've been scanning the web for hours and can't seem to find any useful information. Thanks! Ashley
  2. If anyone is currently using a coralife biocube 32 with the InTank media rack and the InTank floss could you please help me out.... I am having some odd issues that they have never encountered and I wanted to see if anything similar is happening to you guys... Must be the 32 biocube, InTank media rack and InTank (white and blue) floss.... this has me and them stumped... lol
  3. Me again! Lol so we got our water in (nailed the salinity first try... not bad lol 1.024) At least I don’t think that’s bad for a first full up lol question- i am wondering if we have slightly over filled it? The lens cover for the light seems to be always covered in condensation... I’m wondering if this will go away? Or if it’s because we may have just a tad too much water in it? the description of filling it is a little confusing in the manual.... we were not sure if we should have filled it to the line you can see when looking into the tank or the line you see from the outside of the tank? i know there is a very very slight difference however im wondering if this slight amount may be what’s causing it to fog up so bad (and yes we have the lights off) i also just wanted to make sure we have the back chambers filled up correctly- 1st chamber full to tank level 2nd and third chambers are filled to just where the slide in green thing is under the filter floss..... i read about everyone having to change theirs when cycling like everyday, 2 times a day sometimes and we changed ours this morning (nearly 24hours) and it was just barely even dirty... tiny tiny bit of brown.... now we were able to pour in our water so the sand was nearly undistirbed so I’m wondering if that’s why maybe? We are still changing it daily... just to be safe but it doesn’t appear to be catching much... could that just be because there is nothing to catch? Right now we have the output pointing towards the rock and out KPS on at 80% (840 gph) right at the main part of the rock on the left side... when our other KPS comes I plan on pointing it on the right side at about 80% as well...(this is just for the cycling period as I know flow helps get things up and running faster.... we used dr tims ammonia drops and Bio-Spira.... we are due for our first test (using his chart as we always do) in about half an hour or so.... jusg wondering about the filling and if I should remove a tad bit of water... thanks
  4. Hi everyone... Long time reader (research lol) First time poster, I am a LONG time keeper of freshwater and brackish water tanks and critters of all- from Dragon Gobies to Mollies to ACF’s/ACDF’s to Axolotl’s lol However this is my first step into the full saltwater world.... well it’s actually my sons... he is 12 and has convinced me to buy him the Coralife 32 LED tank.... I have posted on other general forums and have gotten so many opinions my head is spinning... Other than the tank and stand I have the following equipment: -Cobalt Neotherm 150W - InTank media tray - InTank (cant remember what it’s called but the part that closes in the gap between the tank and the back - I plan to have a goby and have heard horror stories) -The Hydor KPS WiFi Wavemaker - a good thermometer - regular instant ocean salt (haven’t ordered yet but this is what I plan to get and use- unless someone convinces me otherwise - a good refractometer (bought the same one I use to double check my brackish tanks- and also have instant ocean hydrometer) -mag float glass cleaner - Caribsea 20lbs of the LifeRock Shapes (I don’t think I will be using all 20lbs... probably more like 15-17lbs (I don’t have the glue or whatever for these yet so opened to the best idea to make them stick and stay!!) - I also want egg crate (I am just going to cut it to go on the rocks that touch the glass on the bottom.... not going to cover the full tank floor) but I’m not sure where to get it... I am in Canada and can only find it online at places that don’t ship to Canada... so any ideas or substitutions would be great.... - Caribsea special grade reef sand- 15lbs (aiming for about an inch on bottom so may not need the whole bag or if I need more it’s easy to get) -Already have the API saltwater master kit for my brackish tank and have ordered the reef kit for when we add corals and to monitor everything just in case) - Purigen, Matrix, Phosguard and the appropriate bags for each made by seachem -Filter floss -bottle of biospira And I am probably forgetting something lol My plans based on what I have got the most consistent advice on is: - don’t waste my money on a protein skimmer.... for a tank this size and what I plan to keep it won’t be worth it as long as I do my weekly water changes... which we will be... now keep in mind that when recommendations come in... this tank will be set up and run by my son on his own... so we are going for as simple as possible... he’s very smart and looks after his own 64g axie tank and 406 canister himself... and also helps me with all my water changes and mixes the salt for the brackish tank so he’s not completely unfamiliar with stuff.... so: Again been advised to skip protein skimmer.... keep up with W/C’s instead my plans are to install the heater into chamber 1 chamber 2 will have the InTank media basket: from top to bottom: Filter Floss Purigen and Phosguard Matrix I have also been advised that in a tank this small there is no point in installing the InTank fuge basket.... (surely the Phosguard and purigen combo along with the matrix should keep things under control and if phosphates or nitrAtes get too high I’ll just add more (either purigen or phosguard) until we know how much we will need.... but I’m sure 1 bag of purigen will be fine as my tap water has natural occurring nitrAtes at like 60-80ppm and 1 bag brings my 75g tank down to 5ppm- so in theory it should be able to handle the 32g (which isn’t even quite 32g’s and less when I add sand and rock) so I had thought about just dropping in another bag of matrix beside the InTank media basket in the empty spot... just for more bio.... So hopefully so far so good lol Let me know if you have better ideas or changes... keeping in mind it will be a 12 y/o doing the work.... Really the only benefit (and no one has really convinced me as I have read many contradictions both by science and by peoples advice is that maybe I should run a fuge with Cheato to make pods My easy solution to this is why can I not just dose the tank with the line of pods made by seachem therefore avoiding another thing to buy plus something else for him to take care of.... right? We will only ever be keeping easy soft corals and obviously it won’t be for a while.... so the stock LED lights should be fine I’m assuming.... Now I would like to add an ATO but I am not quite sure where to start with this tank... from what I gather you can buy the whole kits (pump and all) but I have no idea which ones to look for or really where to put the sensors and such (I believe in chamber 3).... honestly I’m not quite sure how they completely work other than some of the ones I have looked at have like a storage container where you put your fresh water and it automatically tops up the tank from evaporation and such.... so some guidance there would be nice... again looking for something reliable but cost effective... it’s a dark room so no sunlight hardly at all only light really will be if he has his lamp or TV on... plus the LED’s (when on) but I still think it’s a good idea as I know it becomes annoying with my 100 tanks I already have constantly topping them off lol.... size is also going to be a component... so the more compact the better... also because we only have a brackish tank using a large spoon and 5g bucket has been sufficient enough for mixing salt (we just temp match the water and do the water change right away and it has never swayed much from 1.005... maybe up to 1.008 but that’s ok for brackish however not ok for swings with saltwater so I am looking for recommendations on a powerhead that’s decently priced but will not break after 2 months or what your guys preferred methods are for water changes... his plan was to mix it up in his room with temp matched water and then just use a smaller container like a juice jug or such to pour the water in (taking it out is not a problem as we have a separate python from the freshwater tanks) so if there is an easier way for him to get the water in the tank I’m all ears lol and again a brand of power head (be specific so I don’t screw it up lol) or something for better mixing.... and water changes ** (I have no choice but to use distilled water but I am absolutely sure it’s 100% actual distilled water... I have a family member in the plumbing business and I made them test it for everything and it’s got nothing- others had tried to convince me to use RO water but my tap water is so bad I would have to buy a large expensive one (I have nitrAtes, copper, a water softener and other crap) So I’m fine with the distilled water because again I am certain it’s 100% pure....plus my faucets are not the norm... I would have to like disconnect the whole thing (if I even could) to get it attached (and they are crazy expensive) and I’m assuming I’d be going through cartridges like crazy and it probably still won’t remove everything) next i I believe would be stocking: for our CUC and Fish stocking we have went back and forth and are not sure on numbers and we want a variety (of CUC) that will each kind of do their own thing... This is sort of where we are but not entirely sure on number or if this will be overstocking the tank (keep in mind I’m only using a max of 15lbs of sand- and around 14-17lbs of rock) - 1 x Royal Gramma - 2x Clownfish (these are the only MUST have) - 1x Watchman Goby - 1x pink line wrasse (this was suggested to me by many however I’m having a hard time finding out exactly what the real name is- when I put it into google I get a bunch of different things but they are talking about the smaller more docile one so if someone can help me out with a better name that would be great so I don’t end up with the wrong fish because (and I maybe should have mentioned this) I have a family owned chain store here... not like Wal-Mart or Petco... they started out with 1 store here in my town and now have about 5 in the surrounding towns as our Walmart’s and such don’t sell fish.... so when I place an order for anything it comes separate from their order in my own box and I grab it as soon as the shipper drops it off and go home with it... even if they order more of the same fish mine always are separated right from their shipper) sorry now I will continue.... 1x Randall’s pistol shrimp (choosing him because of the neat relationship between him and the goby) 1x Scarlet cleaner shrimp 3x Trochus snails 3x Cerith snails And wanting a 3rd snail... something that will accomplish what these guys won’t like eating certain algae’s or turning up the sand bed The one that was recommended but I am hesitant on is 2x Astraea Snails- my concern is that they will get flipped over and one of us won’t notice and he will get eaten by something else in our tank or die or something lol Now 1: would that be overstocking the new 32g Coralife? Should I choose something else over the Astraea snails that may accomplish more and I won’t have to flip over? I’m not looking for something that’s going to reproduce like crazy (I know some of those snails will but I’ve been told most of the eggs will die off or will be eaten... and once they grow I can always sell stuff back to my LFS as they know the care that goes into my fish.... I apologize that was so long winded (and I still probably missed stuff lol) but if anyone has the time and experience to read through my mess of a post I would love to hear any changes I should make and the reason behind it... and the stocking is a big thing... we don’t want to over stock etc (also if you could tell me approximately how many of the cuc to start with (and I know to add the fish sort of least aggressive to most aggressive- will save the 2 clowns or wrasse for last... unless someone has a better stocking list I am all for it... the only thing that CANT leave is the clownfish and I’d like to keep the goby and Randall’s shrimp combo because I think that would be cool to watch... other than that... fairly simply... although as I mentioned he has experience with all sorts of fish... like bumblebee gobies and our dragon goby to the frogs and his axies (we hand feed all 4 of our frogs and all 3 of our axies) so the fish don’t need to be the most simple... more looking for some hardy and nice bright stuff that will make the tank have different colors etc but again no idea if with this list if I’m over stocked or under stocked lol Brand new world to me.... If there is anything equipment wise that I have missed let me know (I may already have it and just forgot to list it lol) Thank you in advance for anyone who takes the time to help us.... just please note I have a brain Injury which makes it hard to read long posts (and write them! 😫) so if it’s not too much trouble when answering questions and moving on to the next topic could you put the spaces like I sort of did with my post... it helps me sort through and read it easier 🙂
  5. Lonet0618

    32 Gallon Biocube Cutouts??

    What is the purpose of these cutouts in picture? Also would it be okay if I covered those up to insure all water passes though the first chamber?
  6. Hello, I'm now to this hobby. Been lurking this site for a couple months and finally ready to make the plunge. I've been reading up on rocks, cycling, livestock, power heads and everything else. I've actually started to accumulate supplies for this like a RODI, refractometer, rock, containers, wave-makers and other supplies I feel confident I could apply to whatever tank I end up choosing. And that brings me to where I'm stuck at, the tank. I've had a Biocube 32 LED in my cart for a couple months but can't seem to pull the trigger. I really love the look, I like that as a newbie and can kind of jump in with few additions (to start). I read the arguments against the Biocubes but I also see the incredible things people have done with even stock lighting; even somehow keeping a healthy anemone in a stock tank where it shouldn't be possible. However, the arguments against starting with a Biocube seem valid but the problem I have is finding an alternative in the same price range. For $400 I have a stand and a tank that is *close* to ready to cycle and then stock coral and fish plus I also dig the look. People say you can build your own tank for the costs of a 32 but I'm having trouble finding the info I would need to do this. So thats why I wonder if there a resources available on this site for this? I tried searching and will continue to so but so far I haven't found quite what I'm looking for. I'm looking to start a coral tank 40g or under with LPS and softies. Haven't really been hooked on SPS but I would however like an anemone (I imagine some experienced users ask "why would you want one?"). Then just a few fish like clown pair, a watchman goby and when the tank is established and I have cultivated enough pods on a separate tank, a Green. Mandarin Finally a CUC made up of snails, a pom pom, hermits and micro brittles depending on tank requirement. Part of my reservation is you don't know what you don't know. Like type a glass seems like something that becomes import but I'm just building the foundation of my knowledge and while you can read and research a component of that is time and experience. But still, I'm afraid I'm going to find out the hard way why something is important and end up regretting my purchases. If you made it this far, thanks so much for reading and I appreciate any tips. ~Danny
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