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Found 42 results

  1. Floundering_Around

    Something's wrong

    We've got some trouble in paradise. So as some background, my most recent water change was this Saturday, three days ago. Ca was at 440 and all other parameters were fine (don't have my own test kit so I got my water tested at the pet store when I went to get more saltwater. Waiting for a good one to go on sale). Before doing the water change, all of my new zoas were acting up (Radioactive dragon eye, eagle eye, and utter chaos). They were all closed up or half closed, not fully opened and pretty. At this point, all of them have been in my tank for about a month; the UC was always open and it was the RDEs and the EEs that were giving me problems. On the advice of another zoa keeper, those two got a peroxide dip. Nothing had happened in the tank other than a hermit crab knocking my Fat Head Den on top of my UC; even then it was still open though. Following the peroxide dip, my UC polyp starts acting up, Mind you, it was fine before and didn't receive a dip. Now after the water change on Saturday, UC still has not opened up and the polyp looks likes it regressing? At the same time, my Monti cap (which was also fine on Saturday during the water change) has started bleaching?! The Monti has also been in my tank for a month and was totally fine. Its mounted on a magnet so I have it at the surface of the water where the par is the highest. It's directly across from my wavemaker so it's getting good flow. And, I feed the tank a mix of benepets and Reef Chili so there is food in there small enough for it to eat. I've been checking for flatworms on both but I see none or any eggs. Any clue as to what's going on? I don't want to lose either of these corals!
  2. hey Guys was wonder if anyone has any thoughts of what is eating my zoas water parameters are perfect and my SPS, Duncans, hammer, plays, mushrooms are doing great but......weird things started to happen three weeks ago after i added a few zoo frags and a skunk cleaner shrimp there is something bothering my zoas, and they are not always fully open as they used to be in one colony noticed one skirt was eaten from one side (regenerating now) my favourite and healthiest colony was all closed up for two days then slowly recovering i had a japanese leather frag attached with a toothpick/glue to a frag completely eaten up from the plug and floated away and today came from work after a 24 hrs shift a two weeks old frag of zoa is gone!!!!!! like nothing on it except glue! it had three small heads but was very securely glued and was starting to heal and doing great but there is no sign of it at all...I noticed most this happen when i don't feed for a day ( away for work) my livestock are 2 clowns tailspot blenny 2 nassarius snails countless torchus snails as they are having a party all the time may 4 big ones and hundred small ones i also noticed some big pods like 3-4 mm and they everywhere including these colonies... i do have an algae problem but not too too bad, hair algae and sea lettuce red sea max 34 gl AIO rebuilt i feed Mysis/ LS pellets/ reefroids... thoughts on skunk shrimp and or pods eating softies? looked for nudis and zoa pox, zoo eating spider and couldn't see anything,,, just pods some are tiny and dark in color some are big almost like a small ant should i get a wrasse to eat the pods? if so which wrasse is suitable for a 34 gl with crushed corals?
  3. I guess I'll start with a little bit about myself. I started keeping fish back in 1963 or 64; I don't remember which, it was so long ago. Back in those days FW was the only option, especially for a little kid. I was quite the entrepreneur, selling livebearer fry to Woolworth's and the local fish store for pennies apiece. It was enough to keep me well supplied with candy I continued to keep a tank or two going off and on (mostly on) right up until the present. When I started seeing marine tanks appear on the scene, I knew that I would eventually set one up, but it took me a while. Life in the military and the constant moving, often with almost no notice, isn't exactly conducive to the marine hobby. When I made my final military move back in 2007, I decided to make the switch to salt water. I had planned on going fish only, but after seeing the display tanks at the LFS my wife had other ideas. In the past 10 years, I have had a number of reef tanks - a 30G (for 1 year), a 75G (for 6 years), a 3G (for 5 years), a DIY 10G AIO (for 2 years), a 120G (for 2 1/2 years) and now my latest - a CADLIGHTS 28G bowfront AIO that has been running for a month and a half or so. I started the tank using about 20lbs of well established LR that I took from the sump of the 120G. I also snagged about a litre of Siporax from the sump and placed it into one of the chambers of the 28G. I used mostly new sand, but added a few cups of sand from the other tank to help things along. The cycle was virtually non-existent. I have a number of sponges in the 120 sump that I rotate through the back chambers to help with the pod population. I picked up two used AI Primes for lighting (one older version and one HD) and am currently running the Saxby low power schedule. I have a Tunze 9001 skimmer in the back, a Jebao SW-4 for additional flow, and a DIY dual float ATO. I've decided to make this a zoa/paly/pipefish tank. Thanks to a local fellow reefer (Sharbuckle here on Nano-Reef) and a recent frag swap, I managed to add quite a few specimens to the meager collection that I moved over from the other tank. As far as fish go, I have a Rainford's Goby, a Wheeler's Goby, a m/f pair of bluestripe pipefish, 2 male dragonface pipefish, and as of yesterday a garden eel. I created a pretty deep sandbed on one side of the tank for the eel, but of course it wants to be front and centre in 1 1/2 inches of sand. Go figure. Yes, I know that I'm moving fast and nothing good happens quickly in this hobby, but what can I say? I'm 60 years old and who knows how much longer I'll be around, so I plan on enjoying things while I can. I've always fed my tanks a lot, and this one is no different - it gets live bbs daily as well as probably 4 or 5 other feedings of various frozen and bottled foods. They're not huge portions, but I figure that in the wild fish are generally eating, sleeping, pooping, and making whoopie, so I do my best to make them feel like they are in the wild. Except for the 1 1/2 heads of Rastas, I don't know the names of the zoas or palys. I just pick ones that look nice. I know that this thread is useless without pictures, so here are a few for you. I am probably the world's worst aquarium photographer, so please be prepared to use your imagination. Jerry
  4. Kvasir

    Kvasirs' Fresh Start

    Edit - 10/22/2017 - A new plan based on cost and fit, but first, a new theory. The Previous Plan: A 25g Cube with a custom refugium, using AI Prime HD's and various other malarkey. Why a new plan: Since coming back with a renewed interest and wallet for nano/reefing, I've been reading a lot. Mostly about the revolution of LED lights since they were a few thousand for a questionable product, PAR levels and requirements, and refugium-only nutrient/phosphate filtration. Over the past couple weeks, the wife and I have been reading, discussing, looking, reading, and discussing more. They say with age comes wisdom - I have started to think wisdom is patience as had I been younger I would of jumped for the 25g Cube tank and went wild with setup without planning. Needless to say, I'm being more reserved and patient this time around, constantly reviewing information. So what's this all mean? A good part of this post is me putting the idea down somewhere, where I can come back read/review it and further contemplate (Over some quality tea in the AM and scotch or beer in the PM). I'm looking at this project as both a personal experiment in control and perseverance. As a younger reefer, I was too apt to tear down and restart or move to a bigger system to such a level it was unsustainable. A lesson learned and the method that will be applied here is the following: Consistency, Naturalism, and recycling what I can from my 10-years-ago youth. So what is the new plan? It's three simple principles: First and foremost, we're recycling what I may have left-over from my previous setups, should those pieces still exist. I'll have an itemized list below. I had three setups. A 3.5g Picotope, an 8g Biocube all-in-one, and a 20g long prop tank with a 2.5g rubble refugium/bubble-guard that I custom built from a 2.5g AGA tank. I think there's an old protein skimmer and maybe even an old Metal Halide light that had maybe a few months of use before it was broken down and taken to my parents basement after college, and various other odds and ends. Second, we are limited on size and weight. A younger me threw caution to the wind and used a TV stand for his first cube, thinking it was a perfect solution. However, I now realize that 8lbs per gallon of water and a multiple of two or three of total water weight is a good number to make sure your stand can hold. So we're going to size down from the initial size of 25g and stay around 8-10g for the display tank. If I have a leftover Biocube, that would be perfect as I'll be doing some DIY to make it better than what an all-in-one can offer. More on that later. Third, I want to go for a no-water-change tank to increase simplicity of maintenance from a physical requirement and time-requirement. Yes, this is including a larger-than-usual refugium. After a lot of research, doing many chemical formulas, and math I believe it should be possible. I had this epiphany when watching a "New to me" tank maintenance video. I'm going to elaborate, or at least try to, the best I can. I believe the core issue I'm seeing is that the idea that water changes are all a tank needs is mathematically incorrect. Most people say "20% water changes are very important! They replace trace elements and chemicals that are required for reefs and fish while removing nitrates and phosphates!" Now, stop and look at that statement - Speaking from a long-term standpoint, it's totally incorrect. I'm going to try to break this down next. Why I'm starting to believe water changes are total bunk when considering the long-term health and growth of fish and corals: Let's start with a simple concept of a hundred gallon tank. Most people suggest 20% water changes, which equates to 20 gallons of water. Simple, right? Well, let's complicate this. Let's say (for the sake of example) every gallon of water was a complete molecule of nitrate. If we do a 20% change of this water, we're still left with 80 gallons of nitrate! While we're reducing this to ppm in reality, you're still leaving room for a continual build of nitrates and phosphates. You're taking less than half on a regular basis. If the amount of nitrates accumulating over the course of a week is more than 80 in this example, then you're fighting a losing battle. Now sticking with this same theory, people say that water changes replace essential trace elements such as iodine, calcium and so-on. Again, for the sake of simplicity let's say that in that imaginary hundred gallon tank has a bunch of corals in it. Every week, they use 10% of the total trace elements within the tank. Now, if we remove 20% of water and replace it, we've replace 20% of 10% from a total of 100 gallons. What's this mean? What is the point of this? Well, to put it simply, a 20% water change is fighting a losing battle. You'll eventually reach a null point where you'll be fighting ZERO trace elements and a level of nitrates and phosphates that are all but lethal or encouraging for algae growth. This is why I believe I've seen over my history of reefing an eventual 'mini-crash' or a sudden bloom of basic algae and a loss of corals/fish. Even with weekly water changes, there is going to be that eventual "Event Horizon" where a tipping point is reached. So how do we combat this: I believe tanks that run refugiums have a natural 'ringer' in their corner. The nitrates and phosphates are kept in check by the macro-algae. It's possible to have a near zero or sub-whole tank with a good size refugium and the proper lighting to support the growth and process of photosynthesis. Secondly, dosing or reactors are a requirement! It's the only way to keep up with the loss of trace elements and other properties we need to keep in check so that we run as close as possible to seawater's parameters. If you're running a refugium to it's full potential, and regularly harvesting the algae from it to encourage growth and providing the proper lighting to ensure the process of photosynthesis can happen as efficiently as possible. Second, a close monitoring of all trace elements and dosing to make sure they stay well within parameters. I believe if this is done, then the only changing of water that needs to occur is the evaporation of the tanks water and the topping off of freshwater that should follow suit. After all, that's how it's done in nature. Up Next, the new plan.
  5. 150 for the 6p. Singles and doubles are 35pp.
  6. Hi, Just a bit of advice please guys. So I have put in my first corals, got them last Saturday, drip acclimated and up until today both are still closed tight, LFS said they will be for up to 48hrs after adding to tank, have contacted them again as now on day 4, they tell me not to worry, are they right? Tank is a AquaOne Nano 35, running since Nov 17 with live rock, weekly 10ltr water changes. Current livestock, 1 x Blue Damsel, 1 Blue Leg Hermit, 3 Nassarius and 1 Cerith Snail. Water - 1.025 PH - 8.2 Ammonia - 0 Nitrite - 0 Nitrate - <5 Any advice would be appreciate. Cheers
  7. The Reef Novice

    Please Help RBTA Stung Zoanthids

    Hello all, My anemone moved over night due to my stupidity (changed around the power heads) and has stung two of my zoanthid colonies. I am current focusing a power head on the BTA so it can move. However looking at the picture, will my Zoa’s be able to bounce back from this? If so how can I help them? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  8. Reefisgood61

    Zoas mysteriously dying

    I have had my tank up for about 6 months. Doing really well. All healthy. Soft coral, zoas, leathers fish and cleaners. I have had this zoa colony since the beginning. Maybe 3 months. All of a sudden the center section zoas start disappearing. My other zoa colonies are fine. On different rocks. But now I see a new spot where they are dying or disappearing. Any ideas on what is up? A friend suggested nudibranchs. But I can’t see any predetor. No evidence of the fish or hermits bothering them. Hoping you have ideas and advice. Should I remove it. Befor it spreads?
  9. Noinoi24

    Could Zoa kill my clowns?

    So, I have 2 clowns in the tank swimming happily, I’ve just removed a utter chaos zoa from a plug, unfortunately it has to indure a fall from the sink to the floor and was smashed a little bit (hope it will not die) after mounting in the rock, I placed it back on my tank where the clowns are. Now the clowns I noticed are doing some flashing movements, like trying to clear their eyes on the sand. It’s both of the clowns doing it. Also it was 10 minutes before light on my tank is turned off. So I’m wondering, could it be the zoa causing an issue? Or my timing as it was 10 minutes before lights out?
  10. Lugmos12


  11. Noinoi24

    SPS killing my Zoa?

    So I got a free red cap last night from a friend, I got a Rasta Zoa as well, which I love very much. I mounted the Red cap monti on time and accidentally fell on top of the open Rasta Zoa, the zoa has closed since. Will my Zoa be okay? Will it live? Â Â Â Â
  12. Friendly

    what's your favorite?

    not which...but what! what is your fav SPS? what is your fav LPS? what is your fav Softy? what is your fav Zoa? what is your fav Paly? why? reading up on my options and just looking to see what others like and why.
  13. Lugmos12

    Corals - need ID

    Some Zoas/Palys(?). I have no idea what the names are. I tried looking online but I'm still at a loss.
  14. JoeMan02

    First Reef Aquarium

    Hi guys! This is my first reef tank, It's a fluval evo 13.5 with the fluval SEA PS2 mini protein skimmer and a hydor koralina 240 pump. My first corals were a mushroom rock, kenya tree, and green palythoas. My tank has been set up for almost 7 months now and since I bought my first corals I have accumulated 14 more types and not my tank is really starting to look like a reef! My favorite corals include the multiple types of zoas i have collected, my red digi, my aussie green leather, and finally my orange galaxea. The tank is stocked with a green chromi, two ocellaris clowns, and a royal gramma basselet, along with the classing cleanup crew of hermit crabs and some snails. I would love to hear your feedback and suggestions! sorry about the poor picture quality, iPhone 6
  15. jstj0sh

    Utter Chaos Zoa

  16. thespinningsadhu

    Sexy on the Zoas

    I was having fun with my macro lens.

    © jagadeesh owens

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