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Found 23 results

  1. ahouseofscales

    Adjusting Powerhead Flow?

    Hi all, I need some help with my powerhead. I have two points of flow generation in my tank (a 10 gal nano reef w/ GSP, xenia, palys, zoas, and a mushroom): a 10 gal Aqueon Silentstream and an Aquatop MaxFlow CPS-1 Powerhead. The Silentstream has very minimal flow, which is why I added the CPS-1, which has a flow rate of 256 gph. However I find that this is a little bit too strong for my tank. Is there any way to adjust the flow of this powerhead?
  2. A.m.P

    Impeller Wear

    I bought a couple one-year old powerheads for a decent-enough price, but pulling one of them open I noticed the impeller is looking a bit suspect, I'm far from an expert on this but there were a few things I'm not certain I should trust going on. Obviously sand got in at some point and made a deep grove in the ceramic/epoxy coating on the outside of the impeller magnet, that's not ideal. Sand also seems to have etched the actual metal shaft of the impeller. BUT the end of the impeller looks pitted and almost defective, it's even showing signs of corrosion and discoloration which I was unable to brush off. Appreciate any input!
  3. chris_pull

    Help with flow...

    Hi all, I have searched around online but I'm massively overthinking the flow in my tank and can't seem to stop tweaking my wave maker in search of "optimum flow". Can anyone please help put my mind at ease?! I have an 80L (20g) aquarium that's about twice as long as it is tall. I have two rock formations with a "valley" in the middle. The rocks are placed up to the middle of the aquarium and there's plenty of space on all sides of them for water to circulate. In the larger rock pile, there's also a "tunnel" in the middle. I have a large canister filter (rated for an aquarium 5 times this size) with pretty good flow from the outlet in the right corner of the tank – manufacturers guidance says this produces 1100 l/h (250 g/h) of flow, but obviously take that with a pinch of salt. I also have a random flow nozzle on the outlet. On the left, I have an SW-2 jebao wave maker (the least powerful version). Both of these flow generators are in the back corners of the tank, pointing slightly at the surface and into the centre. Where these flow streams hit, they collide and push water down and left and right, so that it circulates back round to the top corners to be pushed out again. I am fairly happy with the "patten" of flow (two "circles" that flow around the two rock piles, essentially) but I can't decided on (1) the strength I should set the wave maker at and (2) what flow mode to use. Initially, I didn't think much about the flow and it was probably too strong, but since I've started adding corals, I can now visually see the effects of the flow in the movement of the corals. My question essential boils down to whether I should optimise flow for the corals or for the fish. I have two clowns, a yellow clown goby and a royal gramma. The clowns have decided to host the sand in the right backhand corner of the aquaria, which is great because I never see them. The clown gobby is a fairly new addition and sort of darts around but mostly hangs out near the clowns. The royal gramma has a cave that it hides in most of the time, also near the clowns. The result is essentially an empty looking tank with all the fish movement concentrated in the far right hand side of the tank. At first I put this down to fish being weird but I noticed when all the flow is off for feeding, the fish happily swim around the tank, including the gramma that is normally hidden. This has led me to question if my flow is too strong and so the fish are being restricted to the side of the tank with the least movement. It might also not be a coincidence that the fish are at the opposite end of the wave maker, which is undoubtedly more powerful than the canister outlet. On the other hand, I can't tell if I have enough flow for the corals. When I look at people's videos online, their corals are blowing around like crazy, whereas mine sort of gently move about, unless I really max the flow. Is coral movement a good indicator of flow? I believe I have good circulation, in that food moves all around the aquarium and I don't think there's any build up of detritus, but does good flow mean by corals should be swaying around loads? I've been fiddling around with the short pulse mode, constant mode, surge mode, and the strength of flow on the Wavemaker (it can do 500-2000 L/H) and can't really decide if one is better than the other. What I want is to ensure is that the corals move around enough in the water and that the fish aren't all piled up at one end of the tank. When I look on other threads people tend to joke that as long as the fish aren't flat against the glass, crank the flow up. But surely you want your fish to be able to swim happily around the tank? Having said that, I know the fish I have are not open water swimmers, and, if in the wild they would also generally stick to the rocks and have to "fight" the currents, then that's fine. It's just a shame that there's one half of the tank without any fish movement. Coral-wise, I have a mix of soft (zoas, leathers, gorgonian), lps (Duncans, goniopora) and "easy" sps (birds nest/pavona). I've only been adding corals for the last month or so and the tank is still pretty bare. Sorry for the long, rambling post. As I say, I've been massively over thinking this and just wish an expert could come and adjust it for me haha! Any advice would be most welcome! Chris
  4. Hey guys! Setting up my first saltwater tank. It's a 10 gallon IM Fusion nano. Wondering if this powerhead placement will be ok. It's a koralia 425 + 95gph stock return pump (top right of pic). Trying to hide the PH in the back left, with return outlet top right. Flow hits front glass and swirls around. Will this do for a mixed reef tank? Planning on getting SPS eventually down the line. Thanks!!
  5. The Aqamai I've had for about 4 or 5 months so far doesn't seem to be the best fit for my tank, I love the customizability but the flow is too intense and too-narrow for my tank, it also has an excessive min and max GPH for my setup, I'm really interested in trying out the re-branded coralbox RN-1 (Reefbreeder RP-M) as the less-intense, wider-flow pattern sounds perfect.
  6. Reefing009

    Aqamai KPS Powerhead

    I just set up my Fluval Evo 13.5 and been upgrading the equipments right away. I bought the Aqamai KPS pump. It’s a nice little pump that have many programing flexibility. However, every time the pump speed up or turn on an off for the wave mode, it produces a loud humming noise. Is everybody pump the same? From the review I’ve been reading on these pump it’s supposed to be near silent. Did I get a dud? Thanks for reading!
  7. puppetmaster

    Power heads

    Do I require a power head in a fish only tank?
  8. LaraLouM

    Blowing Sand

    Hey everyone! I have a 6 week old Biocube 16G with the stock pump and a Jebao OW-10 Wavemaker. We have a 20-lb bag of the fine Fiji pink sand. No matter where I have positioned the powerhead the sand blows all over the rocks and coral. It creates drifts right now where there are low sand areas, and very high sand areas. I’m not sure how to position the powerhead to keep the sand from drifting and blowing everywhere.
  9. If_Only

    Flow for a Nuvo 30l

    So I've narrowed down my potential AIO's to start back up again with and I have a moderate budget and I would like to get good equipment but can afford the great stuff (like a MP-10). I really like the USA current E-Flux 660 Because its controllable and I've heard pretty good reviews. Im basically wondering if I could provide all my flow in my nuvo 30l with one Current USA Eflux wave maker and the stock return pump. I will be keeping corals that prefer low to moderate flow. Thoughts??
  10. AI has always been at the helm of "lighting" for reef tanks. They have certainly accomplished great success with their current product line. Now they are coming out with their new power head. The NERO 5 Powerhead - http://www.aquaillumination.com/flow/nero/nero5.html Priced at $299.00 - this definitely doesn't fall in place for budget reefing. But for those who have been using the MP10 or MP40s . . . what do you think? I just wanted to learn what everyone thinks about this new little tech packed with so much power (it can push up to 3000 gph). Do share your thoughts!
  11. Today we are taking a look at the Aqamai KPM Powerhead. We are going to unbox the KPM and compare it to the Aqamai KPS Powerhead. Thanks for watching and don't forget to subscribe and hit the bell to stay up to date. Aqamai KPM Powerhead: https://goo.gl/SqozJ4 Aqamai KPS Powerhead: https://goo.gl/7USY9H https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-RUzURDEAAg Visit Premium Aquatics: https://premiumaquatics.com For a chance to win: 1. Watch video and hit Thumbs up 2. Subscribe if you haven't already to our channel 3. Post a comment on our YouTube video page
  12. Ok, so my MP10 wet side magnet is warped. It's still working but continues to get louder and louder. Should I replace the wet side or get either the IM or Aqamai power head? My tank is an Nuvo 10.
  13. Started this tank on March 30, 2017 with stock pump and filter sock, koralia nano from previous tank, and 5 lb of LR, and about 8.5 gallons of saltwater to start. The tank is almost a year old now and some upgrades have happened. (will take some better pics with the camera later) Equipment -IM Ti ATO (going to tunze nano ato) -Ran a kessil a80 for 11 months before going to a radion (diffusion kit/rm -Jbj 1/15 hp Chiller with 1.0 return -Sicce 0.5 return - inTank Media rack with 2 filer floss on top, seachem matrix, bottom two filter flosses -inTank universal media skimmer -was running a IM desktop Media Reactor with carbon but since the RMS mount is fairly big i had to remove the reactor (don't mind that because its freaking study!) So in turn I have a Fudge basket that I might run with more matrix in it if the tunze 9001 doesnt work out (coming) -MP10 wQD -inTank Frag rock (2) - 5 lb LR -3 lb Sand (going to take down to less lb's till its barley covered probably -Cobalt Aquatics Neotherm 100w heater - 6.5 chemipure Live Stock: - Rainbow Acans - Duncans - Walking Aussie Duncan - Purple Tipped Frogspawn - Young Maxima Clam - Rock anemone -3 nassarius snails -3 Trochus Snail -3 Aussie young scolymia/s? LOL -Side plant is one of 3 succulents I got at a baby shower and decided to try to grow it under the XR-15 instead of my bedroom window lol, so if they switch out ever that why. Let me know if you have any thoughts on the tank! Plan on upgrading to a Lagoon 25 at some point this year I hope!
  14. Hi everyone! I’m having an issue with my tank.. the water is pretty cloudy and I’m not sure what the issue could be. I recently bought an aquatop cps-1 power head for my nuvo fusion 10 tank. Right now I only have some live rock and dry rock with 2 clowns, 1 bicolor goby, 8 blue leg hermits, and 5 snails. The power head was so strong it was kicking up with sand and making a sand storm. It’s a 256 gph power head. Im also not happy with the current aquascaping I currently have, what can I do about that? Do I even need the power head? Should I get a smaller one? I was also curious if I should do a complete start over on the tank. I have 10 gallons of water ready for the tank and a bottle of bio-spera as well. Any suggestions on what I do? If I do end up redoing the water, etc. What do I do with my fish? Thanks!
  15. I've never had a powerhead controller (i.e. Hydor smart wave). Are there any advantages to using a powerhead controller rather than a programmable power strip ? (advantages other than having a physical button to turn off the powerheads for feeding time). Why shouldn't I get a programmable wi-fi power strip instead? It can be programmed to turn the powerheads on and off with a timer, isn't that what a powerhead controller does? It seems to me both devices are capable of the same functions.
  16. Hi Peeps, Just want some advice really - I have 2 Koralia Nano powerheads for my 14 Gal reef, one @ 204 g/ph and the other @ 422 g/ph - I want the water to sway for better surface agitation and thinking of replacing the 204g/ph with a 845g/ph Koralia Evo, would this be ok for my tank? I'd be really grateful for any advice! Cheers!
  17. weston.bechtold

    Flow for a Pico

    Hello all! I feel that I need more flow in my Fluval spec 3 2.6 gallon pico reef. It is a mixed reef with a monti cap some torches GSP zoanthids and candy cane. I was wondering if any of you could point me in the direction of a good powerhead that will be enough flow but not blow my corals off the rock and start a sand storm. I want something that has some controllability in order to create a sloshing or standing wave. Price is of no concern. Thankyou!
  18. Hey, looking to buy an MP10 powerhead in good condition, name your price (I live in Canada) we can discuss shipping after we make a deal. Thanks all, Happy reefing
  19. Hello everyone! this morning I decided to overhaul my tank and to my surprise, my powerhead's ceramic magnet fell out and released a cloud of black powder. all of my corals immediately began to shrink up little bits of magnet went everywhere. I don't know what the long term effects of this will be, has anyone had this happen to them? I think the seal broke and let salt begin to corrode the magnet. I've been fighting an algae outbreak for a while now, and was wondering if this could be a contributor.
  20. hooligan_78

    White Box MP10 For Sale

    Have a white box MP10 for sale. It's about a hear and a half old. NEW wetside with less than 10 hours. Asking $100. Not looking to ship yet.
  21. Lugmos12

    Nano Flow

    Alright, so I did some searched and didn't really found something that I found helpful per se. I'm just wondering what kind of setting I should use for a Jebao SW-2 wave maker on 13.5 gallon nano (EVO). I currently have softs corals and 1 SPS in it. I also found out that the stock powerhead is WEAK as f*ck so I'll probably have to upgrade that for more circulation.
  22. bageezus

    WTB : MP10

    Looking for a nice MP10. Let me know what you have. Thanks!
  23. JLynn

    Aqamai KPS Powerhead

    A couple quick caveats, before I dive in: my first and only other powerhead before this was a good old Hydor Koralia Nano 425, so in some ways, this is going to be a comparison of the two, simply because I have no other frame of reference. Also, I have literally only had this pump for about an hour, so what I'm writing here is my initial impressions. In probably a month or so I'll come back with any updates to my opinion about the pump. That way I'll have had time to really familiarize myself with the all the different controls and settings. So, what's my initial impression? I'm very pleased. The KPS is definitely the best controllable pump on the market for nano reefs. Price: The price of the KPS is $125 - this includes the pump, as well as the wireless hub that lets you program and control the pump through the app, which is free. That's substantially more expensive than it's non-controllable cousins, the Koralia Nano 425 and the Koralia Nano 240, both of which are about $25, but it's also substantially cheaper than it's controllable competition, the Vortech MP10 ($285+) and the Maxspect Gyre XF230 ($290), both of which are overkill on most nano tanks, anyways (especially soft-coral dominated ones, like mine). Size/Shape: As promised, the KPS is quite petite. Here's a side by side comparison with the Koralia Nano 425: It isn't a ton smaller than the Koralia, but when you consider that it is capable of pumping up to 1000gph, it's small size becomes more impressive. It also just looks a lot sleeker - there's none of the boxiness in the KPS that the Koralia has. The other excellent thing about the KPS is that it's design gives you a lot of freedom to direct the current where you want it to go. I can't think of any other pump that matches it in this respect. For comparison, the Koralia pointed as far to one side as it will go, next to the KPS pointed as far to one side as it will stay (for the record, it can be pointed directly perpendicular to it's mount, but the magnetism isn't quite strong enough to keep it there): As you can see, the KPS soundly trounces the Koralia in that respect. I'm particularly glad about that, because one of my chief complaints about the Koralia was that it can't point as far as I wanted it too. And it's controllable competition, the MP10 and the Gyre, can't be pointed anywhere at all, so that's another point in the KPS's favor. Safety: There are only a couple things to mention here. Firstly, the design of the KPS system allows for two drip loops - one between the pump and the wifi hub, and another between the wifi hub and the plug. The illustration included in the package shows that very nicely: The second thing shown on that diagram (marked: attention) is the other, more minor, safety feature. Basically, the connections to and from the wifi hub are threaded - one side has a movable rubber ring that screws down onto the connecting wire (also rubber). One nice this about this is that in the unlikely event that water spills onto those cords (maybe you get sloppy during a water change or something), those connections are very, very well protected. The other nice thing is that you can't accidentally pull out one of the connections (nor can your kids or pets). However, while one of those connections was very easy to screw in, the other one was extremely difficult - I eventually managed to screw it in to the point that the connection was made, but it's still only about 2/3rds of the way screwed on. I'm not sure why it is that one was so easy and the other was nearly impossible, but be warned: you might have trouble screwing these wires together. App/Controllability: The app is free, as I mentioned, and available for both Android and iPhone. When you first open the app, you have three options: create an account, login with your Google account, or login with your Facebook account. I chose Facebook, because it was the most convenient option for me. Then, (at least for iPhones) you need to go to you wifi settings and choose the network called Aqamai_KPS_random_string_of_letters_and_numbers. It will ask you for a password. The password is 12345678. That's in the instructions, but it's very easy to miss, so I thought I ought to include it here, too. The instructions call it the default password, which implies that you could change it. I'm not sure how you would go about that, though. I didn't see anything about that in the settings on the app. Anyways, the set-up process is very easy. Definitely a lot easier and quicker than setting up Bluefish for a Nano Box Reef light. Once you are into the app, there are six different settings for the pump: Constant, Smooth, Night, Feed, Wave, and Random. I'd be interested to know what exactly Night mode does, and how it's any different from the others. Anyways, within each of those settings you can go in and set the flow rate. For smooth, wave, and (presumably) random, you pick both a maximum and a minimum flow rate that the pump oscillates between. This pump can do anything from 370gph to 1050 gph, so you have a wide range to choose from. One of the best features is that you can program a full 24 hour cycle. If you feed at the same times every day, this will be particularly nice for you - you won't have to bother going into the app and changing into feed mode manually, and then waiting 30 minutes and changing back to another mode, you can just program it to do that for you. Your fish will probably also pick up on that pattern quickly and learn to anticipate that when Feed mode changes the current a certain way, food will soon follow. The 24 hour cycle is broken down into 30 minute chunks, which may be annoying if you don't want to leave Feed mode on for 30 whole minutes, but otherwise is probably a bit more precise than you need it to be. I suppose it would be better if you could choose the intervals yourself, but that would also make things more complicated for people uninterested in that level of control. And before you worry that you have to individual set each chunk of time, the app has a feature like Excel, where you can drag a certain setting down for as many of the time periods as you want. My one complaint about it is that while you can drag it down, you can't drag it back up, so if you go a bit too far down the list, you'll have to individually change all the accidentally set time slots to what you want. One other minor complaint about the app is that while it comes with pre-made programs for SPS and LPS, it doesn't have one for soft corals. Lastly, a weird thing about connecting to the device: instead of connecting to it as a device on your phone, you connect to it as a network. So you have to switch between your internet wifi and the device's network to be able to change settings on the app, and then switch back to normal wifi to use the internet. Presumably this also means that you have to be in the house to change the settings; you couldn't change them from work (though I don't see why you'd want to...). Performance: It's performed very well for me in the extremely short amount of time I've had it. So far I've only used the wave/pulse mode. I'll definitely update this section later with details on all the various modes, once I've had time to experiment with all the different combinations of settings and flow rates. It's very quiet, which is nice. Again, I don't have much to say about this yet, since I've only just gotten my KPS. All things said and done, while there are a couple minor issues with the app and I had a lot of trouble with connecting one of those wires, this really is a great powerhead, at a great price. With a flow range of 370-1050 gph, it's much better suited to nano reefs than any other controllable powerhead I know of. And if you upgrade from a nano to a larger tank, you could just buy one or two more of these, which would be a lot cheaper than buying multiple Vortechs. I don't think there's any way to link multiple KPSs together, which would be a bit annoying, but you'd save hundreds of dollars, so I think that evens out. Still, making a way to link up multiple KPS pumps for people with larger tanks would be a good thing for Aqamai to do in future iterations of this powerhead.
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