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Hey! So, I plan to upgrade my 10 gallon into a 20 long within the next few weeks, and have started buying stuff I'll need once I make the transition. The first thing I got was a new light, as one of my old PAR 38's had just burned out and I knew I wouldn't want to deal with a bunch of cumbersome PAR 38's over the tank anyway. I asked around on R2R, and got some good advice. Originally, I was going to build the light myself. Then, I was going to go a slightly less DIY route, but still build my own fixture using pre-made bulbs. I was researching that when someone recommended that I bite the bullet and look into some black boxes (which I had been avoiding), and that the Wattshine 140W was a great value. After some research, I ordered it, and it came in today. Right out of the box, I'm impressed. The fixture feels solid, and looks pretty sleek as well. Tons of ventilation slots, and the fan is nearly silent. For $70, it feels pretty unbelievable compared to the Odyssea T5 fixture I had on my first reef tank (my only other experience with iffy fixtures). The hanging kit sucks, like, a lot. But I knew that going into it, and I DIYed a stand out of PVC yesterday, and it's worked out fine. I had to get a bit creative with the hanging kit, and I think I'll eventually re-do the stand with some wood (as there is some bend in the PVC), but this is more than good enough for now. I got it hung around 8" above the tank, and powered it on - and the light isn't quite what I expected. I was definitely expecting something a bit more in the blue range (12000K+), but it's almost a white-purple color. I messed around with the blues and whites and got it to something I like better, but I'm not in love with the spectrum. That said, it's pretty bright, and my hammer immediately inflated and looks happier than he's been since I got him. So, it must be good for the coral - I'll get used to the spectrum, or add some aftermarket blues if I have to. My RFA is currently extremely pissed and is hiding in the shadows, but it's fluorescing quite a bit as well - so maybe once the tank has more coral in it I'll like the spectrum more. Or, my eyes just need to adjust. My question is about coverage. See, this is above a standard 10 gallon - 20" long. At 8" above the tank, around 16" are lit very well. 2" on either side are a bit dim. I pulled the fixture up to 12" for a bit, and the entire tank was lit, but, of course, I lost intensity. That's great an all, but I want to use this light on a 30" tank. How high do you guys think I'm going to have to hang this light to get maximum coverage? The optics are 90 degrees, and according to the Amazon page, this should light up to a 24" tank well. Could I swap out some optics to get more coverage, or am I stuck with the 24" max? Thanks!
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I need help with this project. I currently have the 12g nano cube LED tank, it has the following specs: 12-gallon Dimensions: 15.8" x 13.8" x 14.8" Capacity: 12 gallons LED Bulbs: 8 total: 5 blue, 3 white LED Total Output Wattage: 10.4W Pump: 8 W SP1-400 0.8 LIFT Power Supply: 110V, 60 Hz Weight: 29 lbs My question is, where do I find LED’s to replace the ones currently installed? I’d like to go more 50:50 on the color, maybe experiment with a red or purple in there as well. I have reached out to jbj customer service and was told they don’t offer replacement LEDs. This tells me I’ll need source them somewhere else. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you ?
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So I have had my evo since they first came out back in the middle of 2016 and recently I noticed some of my lights went out. Contacted fluval and they sent me a new light under warranty. It appears to be slightly different and the led’s seem to be better protected...... problem was that the freaking new light wouldn’t even turn on 😒. Fluval is sending me another one that should arrive today so hopefully that one actually works. But wanted to share some pics of the new light. The old one is on the right, new one on the left. Also the connectors are better and have a tighter fit
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I'm thinking of going lidless on my biocube 14. I have to replace the fluorescents and rather than spending 50$ on bulbs I am going to put it to new lights. I am looking for something budget friendly, under 100$. I have mostly soft corals, a few fish that I would like to have the colors pop on and some zoas and a duncan that fluoresce. I have read good reviews about this light. It has Cree LEDs and is only 60$. But it doesn't have as many LEDs as some others and isn't very adjustable. HIPARGERO LED Aquarium Light – Aquarium LED Lights 30W Saltwater Lighting with Touch Control and 3W Cree Chips for Coral Reef Fish Nano Tank My other option has some better controls and isn't much more expensive at $83. It doesn't have cree LEDs, but it has 100 LEDs and an app that I can adjust the lights on a 24hr timer. Fluval Sea Marine Nano Bluetooth LED (20 Watt) I have also read good things about the MicMol brand, but I don't know much about this nano light. It's more expensive than I like, but the options for timers and flexibility for colors is compelling. MICMOL - LED Reef Light – Aqua CC 30W Marine Aquarium LED Lights Programmable with Full Spectrum for Saltwater Coral Reef Fish Nano Tank … Anyone use these, or have other better suggestions? Trying to keep costs down, but still want something nice. I have no plans on keeping sps corals, but I will have some LPS. I have a firefish, and will be getting a clownfish and royal gramma later.
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The problem: I created a DIY led for my pico with 2xRB and 1xCW cree leds on the 20mm star boards. The leds worked fine but they created a disco ball effect that I really didn't care for. To make things worse I'm using a glass top to reduce evaporation on my pico and the condensation was acting like lenses to make the problem more pronounced. You can see the individual light beams in the top of the picture. I originally had the leds spaced to give more coverage but tried to bunch them as close as possible to eliminate the effect. It helped but didn't get rid of it. So i was looking through ebay and noticed there are Cree XM-L RGBW leds. All the emitters are in one package with one integrated lens. I figured it was worth a shot and ordered 5 to try out. If I still can't stand the effect I'll have to try something else... The plan: Wire up 4 channels of LDD 700's for each color. Drive the LDD with an arduino I'm already using for the current light. I'll remote mount the drivers and Arduino to make it more sightly and use a large scrap heatsink to cool the LED's. I'll thermocouple up the LED's to see if I can get away without a fan, but have one ready if that doesn't work.
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Hi all, I’ve been wanting to upgrade my light to something more powerful, but I really am split on what to get. Leaning more towards LEDs. Top contenders right now are the ai hydra 26, ecotech radion xr15 and the tmc v2lumenair compact 70w. But as I said, I just can’t decide. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Specific tank size is 60cm length, 40 cm width and height.
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Unfortunately, as I was moving back to college after winter break, all of my plugs and cords for my tank's equipment got wet. Some of the equipment just uses standard plugs so after drying off, they were able to be plugged right back in and continue working. However, my new aqamai kps and the adapter and timer for my light currently do not work. I am unsure if they'll start working after drying out some more but as of right now, my tank has had no light since Sunday (other than sunlight from a nearby window) and a backup pump for flow. Up until now, I've been using the stock light for the fluval evo 13.5 and it's was working out well. If I can't get a new adapter from fluval (the actual light is fine), then I will be looking into a different LED that's appropriate for the evo 13.5. I'll also need a lid for the tank as I want to 1) minimize evaporation, 2) keep my fish from jumping, and 3) keep my roommate's cat out of the tank. If this is cheaper than getting a new stock light or at least comparable, any suggestions would be appreciated!!! 🙂 I need to get a light back on my tank as soon as possible. current tank stock: - softies (GSP, mushrooms) -LPS (acans, duncan, torch, goniopora) -SPS (pocilipora) - inverts (RFAs) - NPS
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Hi everyone, I haven't posted for a long time, but am getting back into marine tanks after being tankless for many years after a move. I have an old JBJ Nano Cube DX, 12 gallon. It was retired, but I recently set it back up for a little mantis shrimp (who will likely be moving to a Fluval Spec V soon). The tank looks really nice, but I now remember why I retired it. The fans are VERY LOUD, and it runs hot without them. I'm looking to do one of two things: 1. Upgrade the lighting to LED in the existing top (retrofit), or 2. Remove the top altogether, find/make a cover (ideas or links to after market suppliers?) and put an LED strip light or gooseneck on top. I'm not looking for anything fancy. I'm looking to keep a lagoon type environment with zoanthids and soft corals, 1-2 smallish, hardy anemones (e.g., Florida flower anemone), small inverts/cleaners, may a couple tiny fish. I am NOT looking to have an SPS tank. I'm an experienced marine aquarium keeper, so I do understand stocking limits and won't be overstocking this tank. But I hate the lighting and the noise is driving me nuts. The canopy is ugly and dated too, IMO. I know this is the DIY forum, but I'd welcome suggestions for plug and play retrofit lighting for the hood OR a new top that I'll add an LED to. I have emailed Steve's LEDs, as they had an LED lighting upgrade for this system years ago, but don't list it now. All that said, I'm open to suggestions, so if there is a great build thread that is more FOWLR or LPS/Zoa tank, please post links. How I got back into the hobby: I have not had a marine tank since I moved in 2011 and sold or gave away almost all my tanks and livestock. Including 210. 44 pent, 55, several smaller tanks... I only kept a 29, 90, and the 12 gallon nano cube. I've been tankless since, about 7.5 years. I work at a mail order biological supply house (for educators). Our Florida Keys collector sent samples of live urchins for Biosmounts (museum quality preserved materials in a case) along with other living materials that department ordered. They couldn't use the two urchins, didn't want to just let them die, and came to me. I set up a tank for them in my office. Not long after, I sent our collector in the Florida Keys a request for THREE items for photography - yellow ball sponge, flower anemone, a mantis shrimp. He sent me a whole fish box of marine organisms, including five ball sponges and TWO mantis shrimp. I've had them set up in temporary tanks as I've found them homes locally. Some I'm keeping are in the simple 10 gallon setup in my office. But now I've got the bug again. 🙂 And would like to bring the 12 gallon Nano Cube (after upgrade) to work. Thanks in advance for any ideas!
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Picked up some equipment at my LFS. IM Fusion 10. 10 pound black sand( my son picked it out). 6 pound dry rock. Ehiem 50 watt. On order Rio 800 return pump Upgraded media rack IM Spinstream Micmol Gen 3 light More pictures to come in 2 days. Thanks to being a good ole Prime member. Lol Future livestock My snowflake clown(currently in my sump) Corals ACAN Garden (at least that's the plan)
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I decided I’m going to replace the stock lights on my evo. Considering the AI prime HD but I just saw Aqamai has a new model called the LRS coming out. Anyone have any experiences with the LRM?
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Hi, I was wondering if anyone had an opinion on the Hipargero Aquarium LED Lights https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B074STSMZC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1MMQF53V4XMW6&psc=1 I'm looking to upgrade from the current stock LED light fixture that was provided with my Fluval evo 13.5 nano tank, and I came across this fixture. Seems like a reasonable price, I was just wondering about output and the types of corals it can support. Thanks in advance
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NanoBox is excited to introduce a new color to the NanoBox lineup, Mint. The color was discovered after switching to the Luxeon C LED on the V3.1 array. We have been using Lime for three years and have had incredible success. The mint spectrum nearly mimics lime however has a peak under the 450nm ( wavelength ). As you can see in the graph below marked with light pink. What does this mean for reefers? A better overall color, better blending and a more ideal spectrum. We have tested this spectrum for over a year with amazing results. Our original Lagoon 25, IM Drop Off , Fusion 10 and now our Red Sea 170 have used the mint spectrum. Along with many of our loyal NanoBox customers. The mint color has a "greenish" tone however once you blend with royal blue, blue, cyan and violet you will see how it shines. Mint Only : Mix : When will this be implemented in the NanoBox lineup? We made the switch back in November! We started to hear more and more people talk about the color looking better and glad we made the switch. Mint costs a few cents more but is well worth it. Will we be able to run the mint channel independently? Yes, if you would like. When ordering I would need to know. If you currently have a Plus M model we can change the wiring to separate the mint. Experiments? We have been running all of our tanks without any white supplementation for sometime. The results have blown us away. While there still needs to be true testing done ( spectrograph ) we believe this is a step forward. Creating a "reef" spectrum without white. If you look at 90% of the LED lights out there the white channel is marginally used. NanoBox will be sending a unit out to be tested utilizing only mint, royal blue, blue, cyan and violet. Rainbow Chalice Under Above : Have questions? Ask away! Happy reefing! -Dave
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Hello, I am finally starting up another 10 gallon nano-reef after a couple of years out of the hobby. I am building my own LED system and was hoping to get a couple of knowledgeable/experienced forum members to check off on my design. Specifically, I think my drivers and power supply should be sufficient to handle the load of the LEDs in this configuration, but I would be more comfortable getting another opinion. My hope is that this system can support a bubble tip anemone and SPS corals. Thank you for any help you can offer. There are three "strings" of LEDs, each one controllable by a PWM-dimmable driver. The three drivers are then powered by a single power supply and controlled by an Arduino Uno. Below are links to the components followed a screenshot of the schematic. LEDs Royal blue, blue, and red Violet Neutral Whites Driver LDD-L Series Mean Well Step-Down Mode CC DC-DC LED Drivers ("Wires", 700 mA, 9-36 Vin, 2-32 Vout) Power Supply LRS-150-24 Mean Well LRS Series Enclosed Style Switching Power Supply (24 Vout, 150 W)
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Just set up my new nanobox led retro fit from intank ... Everything looks great other than I have no white lights ... I'm pretty sad ... I've mest with all the settings on bluefish2 app ... Everything is working fine other than the whites ... Dim everything to zero turn whites all up down and nothing ... UV light comes on ...??? Have I hooked something up wrong or is it faulty please help anyone
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So today is finally here, today I move from the original Pico to the new one. I figured I would start a new journal and detail it from now as well as go into more detail about the setup, what was built and what was bought. FTS 3/14/18 FTS 10/8/17 More to come... Set up consists of : -2 X 2.5 gallon aquariums (Total tank volume after rock and media displacement is roughly 3 gallons) -Roughly 5lbs of live rock -256gph pond pump with two outlets - one up top for surface tension, one lower for flow through middle of tank -Diy led, 4 blue, 6 royal blue, 4 warm white and 3 cool whites on 3 channels powered by laptop power supplies and dc motor dimmers. -LEDs are 3 w, 3v ordered off ebay, non branded -Tank was drilled with a dremel and Bulkheads are made from male and female pvc adapters (After tank was drilled and bulkheads were siliconed in I mixed and poured a two part epoxy resin about 1/4 inch thick to reinforce the glass and pcv) -Sump is a simple 2 chamber design, water flows through filter floss-chemipure-a box of MarinePure biofilter media-purigen-return pump -DIY ATO - Float switch connected to DC 12v relay which controls a 40gph pump in the reservoir -Temperature controller is a 5$ board bought off ebay, set temp and a fan will kick on when needed, it sits directly over the return side of the sump. Keeps the temperature between 79-81 Coral list: Hammer Candycane /trumpet Kenya tree Pink xenia Duncan GSP Clove polyp Purple gorgonian Orange rhodactis mushroom Green rhodactis mushroom yellow/green plate coral five kinds of palys - will update closeup pictures for help with identification eleven different types of zoas - will update closeup pictures for help with identification *when it comes to zoas and palys I have come to learn that most of them have made up names. My 'laser lemons' were actually purple people eaters... * Any questions about the setup, feel free to ask.
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Hello, I was recently gifted a IM 25g Lagoon that I will be setting up in a couple of months. I want to be able to grow everything (softies, LPS, SPS, & clams) I have started purchasing equipment for this tank, with the idea that I will likely want to get a larger tank in a few years. With this in mind, I can't decide between the Kessil a360w (with controller/mounting arm) and 1 Nanobox duo. I am currently leaning towards the a360w but I would love to hear opinions. Years down the road when I upgrade to a larger tank, I would use 2 Kessil a360w or 2 Nanobox duos'. I also got a Aquamaxx HOB 1.5 skimmer, which should be a beast on this small tank and will future proof me as long as I stay under 80 gallons in the future. 🙂
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Hello friends, i have tow kessil a150w (skyblue and ocean blue), recently i have noticed dimming of my ocean blue pendant , there should be 21 individual leds on metrix array, when i check carefully i have noticed 6 led's are out. can leds burned out itself or is it issue with driver ? if it is related to driver then i can give a try with local electronic shop to repair this ,if it is related to metrix array i dont think ill be able to find led array 😞
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Ended up breaking down my 4G cadlights nano and relocating inhabitants so I can have my desk back (starting a business and need for surface area...). I haven’t been following Nanobox developments since I bought it. Paid around $350 but see they’re now selling new for $299🙄. Never had a single problem with it! Black finish with blue metal cover. Willing to part with mine for $200 firm + shipping. Sorry, no trades please unless you’ve got drone parts😂. steve
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*NEW* iPhone / iPad app color corrects LED light in real-time
seahostler posted a topic in Photo & Video Discussion
Hey everyone, I wanted to reach out about a project I've been working on for some time now. Blue and actinic light from LEDs has been ruining my reef aquarium photography for a long time. Probably since LEDs became popular. I actually think it's one of the biggest problems with our hobby online. Everyone is sharing this brilliant pics but they're all so blueeee and either you have to spend a ton of time tweaking the hue and saturation of each photography (with mixed results) or you just post away. I love the idea of using DSLR and shooting in RAW to get your levels just right, but I just don't always feel like getting all my gear out and then doing all the adjusting in post. So, with that, I'd like to introduce the Aquarium Camera App (iPhone/iPad and Android I'm working on). I developed it to color correct the actinic light on your corals from LEDs in real-time. Most importantly, it works it's magic on the sensor BEFORE your iphone/ipad has a chance to compress the image and permanently mess up your tank photos. It works with video or photos and I think it's just what our hobby has needed. Version 1.0 had some great feedback and ReefBuilders.com said it was "...an essential tool for the reef tank photography". But a got a lot of aquarists emailing me saying that the blue light correction wasn't quite powerful enough. I went back to the drawing board (quadrupled the lines of code) and just this week released version 2.0 after getting 170 reef hobbiests to test it on every popular LED light we could muster: AI Prime's, Radions, Kessils, Coralife, etc. A few even got some good results when the whites were almost completely off. It's MADNESS!!! haha It's now live, and I've love a few of you to check it out as really this is something I feel like our hobby has needed for some time now. You can sign up for beta testing or download it off the store. All proceeds will go to the beers bought during "the making of" and if there's anything leftover, hopefully a couple frags (looking at you WWC).- 75 replies
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Started this tank on March 30, 2017 with stock pump and filter sock, koralia nano from previous tank, and 5 lb of LR, and about 8.5 gallons of saltwater to start. The tank is almost a year old now and some upgrades have happened. (will take some better pics with the camera later) Equipment -IM Ti ATO (going to tunze nano ato) -Ran a kessil a80 for 11 months before going to a radion (diffusion kit/rm -Jbj 1/15 hp Chiller with 1.0 return -Sicce 0.5 return - inTank Media rack with 2 filer floss on top, seachem matrix, bottom two filter flosses -inTank universal media skimmer -was running a IM desktop Media Reactor with carbon but since the RMS mount is fairly big i had to remove the reactor (don't mind that because its freaking study!) So in turn I have a Fudge basket that I might run with more matrix in it if the tunze 9001 doesnt work out (coming) -MP10 wQD -inTank Frag rock (2) - 5 lb LR -3 lb Sand (going to take down to less lb's till its barley covered probably -Cobalt Aquatics Neotherm 100w heater - 6.5 chemipure Live Stock: - Rainbow Acans - Duncans - Walking Aussie Duncan - Purple Tipped Frogspawn - Young Maxima Clam - Rock anemone -3 nassarius snails -3 Trochus Snail -3 Aussie young scolymia/s? LOL -Side plant is one of 3 succulents I got at a baby shower and decided to try to grow it under the XR-15 instead of my bedroom window lol, so if they switch out ever that why. Let me know if you have any thoughts on the tank! Plan on upgrading to a Lagoon 25 at some point this year I hope!
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Hi all, I'm disassembling my custom LED fixture and selling the 48W LED super spectrum pucks. I worked with Yann to develop this specific flavor after significant testing. These are PCBs with premium LEDs intended for a DIY assembly. Yann sells my mix here: https://blueacro.com/acrostar/ for ~$85 shipped. These are custom chips with what I consider to be the absolute best spectrum for coral growth, fluorescence, and color mixing. Channel 1: 4x Royal Blue (450nm), 1x Warm White (2700k, 80+CRI); 1A max current, 15V required Channel 2: 2x Royal Blue (450nm), 1x 425nm Violet (Luxeon UV), 1x 415nm Violet (Luxeon UV); 1A max current, 12V required Channel 3: 1x Lime, 1x Warm White (2700k, 80+CRI), 1x Royal Blue, 1x Neutral White (4000k, 80+CRI); 700mA max current, 12V required Channel 4: 1x Blue (485nm), 1x Royal Blue (450nm), 1x Cyan (500nm); 1A max current, 9V required. A lot of thought and experimentation went into this configuration. It's cost me buckets of LED's to figure this out... but I feel like this is the PERFECT mix . At 100% it should result in something like 19-22k light (depending on your perception). It's focused on growth over unused accent colors but does include one Cyan and one Lime. The lime is too cool to not include and really allows a whiter look when called for - I feel that it does harm the overall color rendering, but it is an extremely efficient way to get a whiter light when you want it. If possible, I would run a 5th channel with just the lime. Cyan (~500nm) also doesn't do much for the coral but is necessary to compensate for the gap in phosphor converted white. This light leans towards warm white over neutral white - more warm white gives a very rich coloration that is less "sterile. Channel one, with one WW and 4 RB's is perfect for dawn and dusk viewing. You can see how it causes a reef tank to fluoresce here: You can see more of the coral growth and color rendering here http://bostonreefers.org/forums/index.php?threads/fresh-build-the-clean-white-stage.154756/page This is a bit of a specialty item - so let me know if you have any questions. They are sold with solder pads (not solderless headers) and are used, but have only reached about 1/10th of their usable life. Send me a text 978-502-7037 (preferred) or respond to this post. Best, Rob -
Hi all. I've changed lights again and have 2x Kessil A360W E-series lights I no longer need. They are the saltwater Tuna Blue spectrum. Beautiful lights and I had great results with them. They have about 4 months of use on them, 7.5 hours a day. Full disclosure - one light has a little bit of pitting on the hanging ring (but the body/LEDs are flawless). I also have the controller (with magnetic mount) and a link cable for the lights. All are in perfect working order. Will sell separate or together. Free controller if you buy both! Price includes tracked/insured shipping to CONUS. International at your cost/risk. Message with any questions! Thanks! Kessil A360We Tuna Blue - $225 Each Kessil Controller - $70 Buy both lights and get the controller free!
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I'm selling a Current USA Orbit Marine Aquarium LED Light, bought in June of this year, because I am breaking down the tank that it was used on. Its in great shape, only in use since June, I can post pictures once I get home but besides a little dust its pretty much new. Heres the amazon listing for the fixture, its the 24''-36'' adjustable one. Im looking for $100 or OBO, willing to ship or Local Orlando Fl meet up.
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Hey all, question regarding coloration/“pop” improvement with Ecotech Radion upgrade options.I’ve been running a G1 Radion for something like 6 years over my 34 gallon Solana. I’m pretty satisfied with output, and the spread is acceptable, corals grow fine, so no real “problems.” But I’ve never loved the coloration it gives my tanks, compared to what I’ve seen on other tanks with different LED’s or newer Radions. So I’m considering an upgrade. Obviously the most affordable option is to send in the one I already own for Ecotech to upgrade to the G3. And of course since I’m thinking about it, I’ve also been checking out the G4 and G4 pro. I don’t need the G4pro for the increased output, but I do like the idea of more color channels. What I want to know is: is it worth the upgrade (any of them) in terms of visual appeal and making colors pop? Will I see a noticeable difference from G1 to G3? Is G4 way better than G3 (aesthetically)? Has anyone made any of these leaps and can talk to how the corals appear under the improved spectrum? Will the G3 upgrade be enough to see that new “pop”? Is the G4Pro way better than the regular G4 in terms of color/“pop”?I’d love some first-hand experiences with this. Thanks!
