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  1. Multifasciatus

    can we? Or can we not?

    So as the title states, can we? Or can we not? Being Reef hobbiest as a whole we all have many things we say can or cannot be done, from fish store employees, to hobby literature, , veterans, to beginners, everybody’s opinions are different. I’ve worked in the industry for years, and have heard many many things. What I’ve noticed is most of these have no bases in actual science. Some of which I’ve proven through expierments to be false and others true (gorgonians do not die if they touch air, some sponges however do) what I have found is a “you cannot unless you....” is more appropriate. So everybody post things that you think cannot be done or “rules” you have heard that you are unsure about and let’s discuss them. See if someone has evidence to the contrary. And maybe have some results for expierments proving if this to be the case or not. Please let’s not take unneeded risks with livestock, always be mindful and responsible of the creatures we care for. And please keep an open mind and remember some of the species we keep now would have been considered impossible not that long ago.
  2. Hobbs

    Hobbs's 8gal Nuvo Reef

    Hobbs's 8gal Nuvo Reef Chronicling the development of a pristine nano ecosystem. Goal: minimize weekly maintenance while maintianing a portable and hardy marine reef Specs: Tank: Nuvo Aquarium Nano Reef 0202 8 gallon capacity Filtrations: Mechanical Sponge, activated carbon sponge, phosphate sponge Light: 8 watt 14,000k (6 white diodes, 4 blue) Sand: Arag-Alive Bahamas Oolite Live Rock: 6.6 lbs of cured live rock, fairly porous but could be better. Coralline growth present Water: R/O with salt from LFS. Total water is 5 gallons Start date: 8/5/17 Reasoning: Wanted a small durable aquarium that would be easy to move every year. Modern and sleek design with LEDs was a massive plus. Wanted to maximize biological filtration so wanted as fine as sand as possible and as much rock that would asthetically fit in the tank Initial thoughts: The tank is too small for all the fish I want, the sand is too fine, the light needs to be stronger. Still looks super cool. Plans: Have 2 small fish, maximize symbiotic pairings, have lots of inverts and corals. Maybe future anemone or clam (need vast lighting overhaul first, I know )
  3. Hi Nano-Reef'ers, My name is Danny Tran and this will be the start of my reefing experience. My goal? To record every success and mistake and lessons learned through this forum. I'm located in Vancouver, BC Canada. A little about me, I'd been a freshwater aquarist for about 4 years, mainly focusing on aquascaping with easy to keep small fish. I've had marble angels, pleco of all types, tetras, and shrimp! I never thought that one day I would start a reef tank. My interest really started when I saw all these beautiful aquariums with amazing colourful corals and very few fish, feeding corals, growing up them, propragating them, it all was so fascinating. I also spent 2 hours reading this CRAZY incident of a bobbit worm taking over an entire aquarium and destroying everything in it's path, here is the link....http://www.michiganreefers.com/forums/advanced-topics/84173-bobbit-worm-chronicles.html So here we go.... I don't have anything in possession yet but I just wanted to begin with a Hello and get your best advice on getting started.
  4. Mike P

    Fish for my Evo 12

    I was wondering if a Royal Gramma Basslet would be okay in the Evo 12? The only other fish I currently have is a shark nose goby and I plan on purchasing a court jester goby. I’m really looking for an a more active fish other then a clown or firefish.
  5. Issani

    Sucker punched

    So I’ve been working at this aquatic shop for about 2 years, we specialize in freshwater, however I own many tanks and recently decided to start a saltwater tank at home. My manager and I are very good friends, he often comes over and helps me out with water changes and testing levels. However when I came into work today as I was changing in the break room I came across a bag. Inside the bag I discovered was a mantis shrimp, a freaking mantis shrimp. I closed the bag and went to investigate what the heck was going on. In the quarantine room I discovered my manger filling a stock pond with RODI water. I was alarmed because for one we only specialize in saltwater two, I had a bad feeling that shrimp was going to be used to cycle the aquarium. Low and behold 5 hours later we’re closing up for the night and my manger brings out the poor shrimp. He explains to me that the shrimp would most likely survive. I still had a bad feeling as I watched him dangle the bag over the pond. Next thing I know the damn shrimp has punched the damn bag and fallen to the floor. I felt sick as my manger picked the poor thing up and dunked it into the water. The water wasn’t cycled and i have no idea what the temperature was. I’ll keep you guys updated.
  6. Liambawden

    AquaOne 120L Stocking???

    In this tank I have a 3 inch Vlamingii Tang (Who got very distressed when I put her in my 450L reef) so she will be staying put until she gets a bit larger. I also have a Red Scooter Blenny, alongside a Paddlefin Blenny. I have lots of coral, ranging from Wall Hammers, Branching Hammers, Torches, Cornets, Duncans & Aussie Duncans. Kenya Trres & Colt Corals, Toadstool Corals, GSP & Glove Polyps. And my all time favourite Goniopora! There are a couple small mushrooms and my FeatherDuster garden too! What would people recommend trying to add to this tank as the only fish who does any swimming is my tang! The other two seem to stay closer to the sand bed or the rock work and aren't as active throughout the day as expected. Any advice or opinions are appreciated.
  7. Liambawden

    AquaOne Nano 40 Stocking???

    So, Recently my 6 line wrasse unfortunately died thanks to a spike in my nitrates... This has all been sorted now and many more precautions have been taken to ensure that this is not something that is likely to happen again at all. However, I now have no idea on what I actually want to stock this tank with? I am not a new hobbyist, and I have been keeping marine fish for about 4 years now, with many different tanks.. So I am rather stumped on what to add to this tank... So far I have some Xenia, Hammers, Duncans, A Featherduster & some leathers (Kenya Trees & Toadstools). I am looking to add quite a bit more coral wise to make the tank look like a little reef. But don't know what fish to add! Any advice or comments are appreciated.
  8. Hello guys, Just added a clown pair to my previously coral only setup. I already feed my corals reef roids regularly. This got me thinking about how practical feeding the fish and coral the same thing, in one go, would be. I know a lot of you probably have their own DIY recipe of sorts for feeding the tank. Care to share? My thoughts were something on the line of: - Seafood mix - Garlic - Bit of reef roids (for good measure) Blend and freeze. What are your thoughts?
  9. Current setup Tank Nuvo 40G AIO Oolite Ocean Direct Live Reef Sand 40 pounds 46 Pounds of Live Cured Rock Livestock 2 Blue Green Chromis 5 Hermit crabs, One got eaten for his shell:( Saw his legs this morning. Heater EHEIM Jager Aquarium Thermostat Heater Wavemaker/Controller Hydor Koralia Nano Aquarium Circulation Pump 425GPH Hydor Koralia Evolution Aquarium Circulation Pump 750-850GPH (comes in tomorrow) Hydor Smart Wave Circulation Pump Controller ATO Tunze USA 3152.000 Automatic Top off Nano Osmolator for Aquariums Under 55-Gallon Light Radeon XR15W Pro Gen w/stand Extra Stuff Innovative Marine - Gourmet Defroster Selcon Vitamin Fish Good Dr. G Brime Shrimp Guy Loaded Seachem Stability 2 Bottles of TurboSTart on day 1 One Media bag loaded with Marineland's Premium Activated Carbon put in 3rd chamber (left to right). Going to add another today. in 2nd chamber.
  10. Liambawden

    Reef Aquarium 120

    In my Reef 120, I was looking at what other corals would fit well, and even more so what fish?! At present I have the following. Corals: 1 Hammer 1 Torch 1 Kenya Tree 1 Gonoporia 1 GSP Frag 1 Mushroom Inverts: 1 Seabe Anemone 2 Feather Dusters CUC 1 Cleaner Shrimp 1 Blood Shrimp Fish: A Bonded Pair of Maroon Clowns A Fireball Angelfish (which is being sold to a friend) A Blue Cheeked Goby So what would you recommend to have in here? There is a lot of spare bare rock and plenty of caves and caverns, just not sure what will bring the tank to life in many aspects. Thank You in advance!?
  11. Bought a Radeon XR15W G4 Pro yesterday and im super happy with it, I was looking through the ecotech website and saw I could import custom made settings. Can anyone recommend where I can find some? Or if anyone knows any good ones. My tank is about 10 days old or so.
  12. Abeal1117

    Wrasse ID

    So I wen to a local LFS and noticed they had 2 wrasse. Both labeled as "flasher/ fairy wrasse". Now I can tell one is for sure not either a flasher or a fairy but appears to be closer to a Halichoeres Sp., but the other looks like a fairy but I couldn't ID it. Anyone know, or have a suggestion to what they could be?
  13. Jaybaum

    Ammonia outbreak

    Hey guys my tank has roughly 0.25-0.50 ppm ammonia, and I have 3 fish and 13 clean up crew members. To kick start the tank I used Bio-spira, then added fish 3 days later. I probably should've waited longer for the tank to cycle more. I tested the water parameters yesterday and all were fine. I did a 10% water change and added ammo-lock. Anything else I should do? I almost want to drain the whole tank and start the cycle over.. but where do i put my fish?
  14. Hi everyone, I'm new to this forum and also a beginner with handling fish My problem: I have a 10G tank which is currently being cycled with 2 live rocks and with Prodibio Startup. It has lighting, water heater, water flow mover, marine salt, and substrate. I want to have an anemone, a clownfish, a coral. 1. Can I put them all in a 10G tank? 2. Ideal sequence? Some say put the anemone first before corals and fishes. Some say put clownfish first then anemone. As usual when going online there's conflicting resources (and I'd guess they are all valid for specific scenarios) 3. How far can I go with stocking? I read there's the one-inch rule and also the floor area rule. My guesstimate for a 10G is 5 fishes (3 inch each). 4. Assume I can put 5 fishes, does a coral or anemone count as 1 "fish" (though they are not fish) I'm sure I will have follow-up questions. I have done my reading but as usual, there's not enough reading that can answer every scenario. I am trying to copy a couple of setups as my baseline, but these questions are lingering in my mind. Overall goal: I want to give life to our new apartment while considering the limitations of space and layout of this 1100 sq feet place. I and my wife want a minimalistic design of the place. The place has vegetation that are strategically placed in the apartment. We don't want to have huge tanks because of those reasons (at the very least) Just a bit of background about me: I'm a fast learner and like to gobble a lot of information. I'm a senior software engineer who values test driven development, a professional beauty photographer on par with the best in the industry, and a serious Internet of Things maker (I've created a lot of sensor-related things--monitoring everything in the house and also started with robotics). I'm also a master-level chess player. Thanks
  15. Kvasir

    Kvasirs' Fresh Start

    Edit - 10/22/2017 - A new plan based on cost and fit, but first, a new theory. The Previous Plan: A 25g Cube with a custom refugium, using AI Prime HD's and various other malarkey. Why a new plan: Since coming back with a renewed interest and wallet for nano/reefing, I've been reading a lot. Mostly about the revolution of LED lights since they were a few thousand for a questionable product, PAR levels and requirements, and refugium-only nutrient/phosphate filtration. Over the past couple weeks, the wife and I have been reading, discussing, looking, reading, and discussing more. They say with age comes wisdom - I have started to think wisdom is patience as had I been younger I would of jumped for the 25g Cube tank and went wild with setup without planning. Needless to say, I'm being more reserved and patient this time around, constantly reviewing information. So what's this all mean? A good part of this post is me putting the idea down somewhere, where I can come back read/review it and further contemplate (Over some quality tea in the AM and scotch or beer in the PM). I'm looking at this project as both a personal experiment in control and perseverance. As a younger reefer, I was too apt to tear down and restart or move to a bigger system to such a level it was unsustainable. A lesson learned and the method that will be applied here is the following: Consistency, Naturalism, and recycling what I can from my 10-years-ago youth. So what is the new plan? It's three simple principles: First and foremost, we're recycling what I may have left-over from my previous setups, should those pieces still exist. I'll have an itemized list below. I had three setups. A 3.5g Picotope, an 8g Biocube all-in-one, and a 20g long prop tank with a 2.5g rubble refugium/bubble-guard that I custom built from a 2.5g AGA tank. I think there's an old protein skimmer and maybe even an old Metal Halide light that had maybe a few months of use before it was broken down and taken to my parents basement after college, and various other odds and ends. Second, we are limited on size and weight. A younger me threw caution to the wind and used a TV stand for his first cube, thinking it was a perfect solution. However, I now realize that 8lbs per gallon of water and a multiple of two or three of total water weight is a good number to make sure your stand can hold. So we're going to size down from the initial size of 25g and stay around 8-10g for the display tank. If I have a leftover Biocube, that would be perfect as I'll be doing some DIY to make it better than what an all-in-one can offer. More on that later. Third, I want to go for a no-water-change tank to increase simplicity of maintenance from a physical requirement and time-requirement. Yes, this is including a larger-than-usual refugium. After a lot of research, doing many chemical formulas, and math I believe it should be possible. I had this epiphany when watching a "New to me" tank maintenance video. I'm going to elaborate, or at least try to, the best I can. I believe the core issue I'm seeing is that the idea that water changes are all a tank needs is mathematically incorrect. Most people say "20% water changes are very important! They replace trace elements and chemicals that are required for reefs and fish while removing nitrates and phosphates!" Now, stop and look at that statement - Speaking from a long-term standpoint, it's totally incorrect. I'm going to try to break this down next. Why I'm starting to believe water changes are total bunk when considering the long-term health and growth of fish and corals: Let's start with a simple concept of a hundred gallon tank. Most people suggest 20% water changes, which equates to 20 gallons of water. Simple, right? Well, let's complicate this. Let's say (for the sake of example) every gallon of water was a complete molecule of nitrate. If we do a 20% change of this water, we're still left with 80 gallons of nitrate! While we're reducing this to ppm in reality, you're still leaving room for a continual build of nitrates and phosphates. You're taking less than half on a regular basis. If the amount of nitrates accumulating over the course of a week is more than 80 in this example, then you're fighting a losing battle. Now sticking with this same theory, people say that water changes replace essential trace elements such as iodine, calcium and so-on. Again, for the sake of simplicity let's say that in that imaginary hundred gallon tank has a bunch of corals in it. Every week, they use 10% of the total trace elements within the tank. Now, if we remove 20% of water and replace it, we've replace 20% of 10% from a total of 100 gallons. What's this mean? What is the point of this? Well, to put it simply, a 20% water change is fighting a losing battle. You'll eventually reach a null point where you'll be fighting ZERO trace elements and a level of nitrates and phosphates that are all but lethal or encouraging for algae growth. This is why I believe I've seen over my history of reefing an eventual 'mini-crash' or a sudden bloom of basic algae and a loss of corals/fish. Even with weekly water changes, there is going to be that eventual "Event Horizon" where a tipping point is reached. So how do we combat this: I believe tanks that run refugiums have a natural 'ringer' in their corner. The nitrates and phosphates are kept in check by the macro-algae. It's possible to have a near zero or sub-whole tank with a good size refugium and the proper lighting to support the growth and process of photosynthesis. Secondly, dosing or reactors are a requirement! It's the only way to keep up with the loss of trace elements and other properties we need to keep in check so that we run as close as possible to seawater's parameters. If you're running a refugium to it's full potential, and regularly harvesting the algae from it to encourage growth and providing the proper lighting to ensure the process of photosynthesis can happen as efficiently as possible. Second, a close monitoring of all trace elements and dosing to make sure they stay well within parameters. I believe if this is done, then the only changing of water that needs to occur is the evaporation of the tanks water and the topping off of freshwater that should follow suit. After all, that's how it's done in nature. Up Next, the new plan.
  16. We are your official one stop shop for the best in aquarium gear, supplies and marine livestock. This is our new livestock section. Aquarium Specialty Live: http://www.aquariumspecialty.com/aquarium-specialty-live.html Here's a vid of Black Storm Clownfish getting ready to go into one of our aquariums. I love these fish!
  17. Recently, my parents took a long talk and finally let me get a fish (I couldn't get any other pet due to my cat). We've come to realize my cat doesn't care so, I have been saving up money and I want another fish. I was interested in a "cow" clown fish or a black moor goldfish, but as I did my research they both require lots of space and I don't wanna take in one if I don't have the proper housing area for it (that would be cruel). I was wondering if there are any other fish that I could take care of besides the betta I have at the moment? (Anything that can be held in a 5-10g tank, im fine if they need any chemicals, also fine if they need a heater, filter, etc.)
  18. I’m fairly new to the saltwater scene but do have quite a bit of experience with freshwater. I have a Fluval evo 13.5, I did fully cycle my tank and test frequently I even added a clean up crew before adding fish to make sure my tank is ready for fish. My local LFS had a Wyoming White clownfish and a couple of regular ocellaris fish separately. I loved the Wyoming Clown but wanted a pair and through my research I learned itÂ’s better to add the clowns in the tank together at the same time if i want better chances of them pairing so I got an ocellaris that was significantly smaller than the Wyoming. TheyÂ’ve been in my tank now for about 2 weeks. It took a couple of days for them to eat but after that theyÂ’ve been eating just fine. I alternate between feeding them palettes and mysis shrimp, sometime they even get a few bites of seaweed that I feed clean up crew. So my concern is IÂ’ve been noticing the Wyoming white striking the smaller clown which is typical pairing behavior BUT the small one doesnÂ’t do that ticking/twitching that I read theyÂ’re supposed to do. He just swims away and goes about his business. He doesnÂ’t show any signs of stress and he eats just fine. I do see them together at night most of the time by the power heads. (Not sure if they hosted on them). My question is does the male clown ALWAYS do the ticking when pairing? Are mine paired already but just not doing the ticking thing?? Should I be concerned? Maybe the small one or even both are still too young to pair? The LFS employee assured me that they are compatible because theyÂ’re both ocellaris, was he wrong and maybe theyÂ’re not????  Thanks in advance for any advice you may have.  Sorry for the shitty pictures. I took screenshots from a video so yÂ’all can see the size difference. Once again the small fish was not in a tank on his own. He was in a group of about 10+.  Â
  19. Hello, I had a circulation pump, which stopped working a few days ago. I'm thinking to buying a return pump, because it's more cheaper! For my aquarium with soft corals how many gallon per hour would be better? Maybe 130 gph? Bye
  20. iced chai

    Fish Movement

    So here is the deal. I have two tanks. I have a 20 gallon tank and a 5 gallon tank. I want to move 1 of the fish from the 5 gallon tank to the 20 gallon tank. Here is the parameters. In the big 20 gallon tank, I have 2 clownfish, 1 little yellow fish, and 2 shrimps. I would like to move a four striped damsel from the small tank to the big one. Could that work? Would the fish get into fights? Any help would be amazing Thanks, Trev
  21. Thatoneomahaguy

    Is my coral beauty bothering my corals?

    Hey everyone. I have a question about everyone's luck with coral beauty angel fish and coral. A few of my coral (blue acro, orange montipora digitata, and fuzzy millepora) never have polyps extended but others like my birdsnest, hammer coral, and rock anemone are doing great and constantly showing full extension. Today I saw my coral angle take a quick nip at my blue acropora and I realized that my issue could just be the coral beauty. I usually feed my fish daily but sometimes it's every other day. Is the fish likely the problem here? This was my first time seeing this behavior but it would make sense. Is it normal for fish to go after some corals but not all? Ultimately I am trying to figure out why some coral are thriving and others are just surviving and I think I may have found the culprit. Tank params: Alk 10.4 Mag 1440 Ph 8.2 Calcium 440 Nitrates ~ 0 Thoughts?
  22. squamptonbc

    Start of a 20L

    The start of my 20 long, it was my freshwater tank up until a couple of weeks ago when I decided to use my new 50 gallon for freshwater, so the 20 long will become a marine tank, not planning corals of any significance, maybe some softies but mostly just small fish. The stand is an aqueon metal stand and the aquarium is Tetra branded. Heater is an aqueon which I had been using previously. Lighting will be Current USA Marine Orbit although I have not yet purchased the light. I wasn't going to use a skimmer, but I got a good price on a new HOB skimmer that was too good to pass up, and will be needed when I start a saltwater lagoon in a few months, so figured may as well just use it on this tank for now. Skimmer is a reef octopus classic 100 hob. No substrate as of now, decided to try bare bottom. Bottom and back of tank painted black. Rock is previous live rock from several years ago. Rock is held together with a thermoplastic polymer I found at the local fish store, easier to work with vs epoxy and no chemical migraine inducing smells which is a plus living in an apartment where everything has to be done inside. Salt being used is just instant ocean. Just getting it filled today. Forgive my lack of nice photos, I don't have a modern camera so it's not as good as the phones most folks use these days...lol
  23. ZyleZuin

    Zyle's Evo Build

    Hi all, Quick background, I got into the hobby years ago with my first tank being an original Red Sea Max 130L. I eventually added on a 90g cichlid and an Innovative Marine Nuvo. Due to renting and regularly moving, I decided to get out of the hobby and take a break, selling all aquarium related supplies. That was 2 years ago and I decided to get my toe back into the water with a simple Fluval Evo 13.5g tank. I don't want to get sucked too heavily back into the hobby so I'm going to try and move slowly and avoid expensive upgrades if I can help it. CURRENT BUILD: Tank: Fluval Evo 13.5g Heater: Cobalt Aquatics Neo-Therm 50w Skimmer: Fluval PS2 Return Pump: Cobalt Aquatics Mini MJ 606 Filtration: Stock Fluval Foam Block, Ceramic Balls, and carbon bag Light: Stock Fluval Evo 13.5g LED light Testing Kit: Red Sea Marine Test Kit Fluval Evo 13.5g Selection: I chose this tank primarily on price and aesthetics. For $150 and Amazon Prime eligible, it is a very accessible tank including a powerful light, pump, and filter. Even if I end up replacing these items, they would serve as nice backups that are designed to work with the tank. Nothing like realizing a power head broke and not finding one locally that will fit your tank. And compared to some of the other tanks in its weight class I liked the overall looks with the base being smaller than the tank giving it nice depth and modern look. I also liked that it is a peninsula tank which I feel makes a bigger statement for nano sized aquariums than a cube. Unboxing: Despite Amazon losing track of my aquarium in transit and having to send a replacement, the Evo got here just fine. The outer box was a little bruised, but there were foam supports around the inner box which actually had a third (retail) box inside it. More foam and then the tank itself. Not indestructible, but I felt fine having amazon ship these around. Everything goes together like you'd think it would out of the box. Be careful snapping off the tabs on the lid for the cables. They did not come off easily for me and I actually snapped the lid close to the skimmer corner. A little super glue and you'd never know. My return pump hose was actually a little shorter than I'd like and as you'll see later needed to be longer after replacing the return pump. I wish the hood was machined a little more precisely. Where the two pieces come together isn't perfectly flush and annoys me. I think the light and hood are honestly just fine, but wouldn't be surprised if that was the first major upgrade I do (hopefully not for a while) and I don't have any compelling reason to mess with it just yet. Equipment: I picked up the M50 heater and PS2 skimmer to round out the equipment, having read some stories online I was a little nervous about the heater fitting or the need of a skimmer in this size tank, but my OCD won out and I wanted matching brand equipment. Well as everyone has more or less stated, the Fluval M50 (50 watt) heater does not fit in the third chamber with the return pump despite being marketed and pictured to do so. Shocking... I threw it in the first chamber and moved on with my life, but quickly ordered a Neo-Therm 50w. It is way shorter and thinner, easily fitting in the space provided. Plus it is fully submersible. The M50 has maybe 1-2" zone where it wants the water level to be and without an ATO is kinda rough. Not too upset, I ended up with a backup heater just in case. One of the other documentation blunders by Fluval is how the return pump is supposed to sit. How they have it pictured doesn't actually work. The pump is too big. Looking online I found a new pump from Cobalt Aquatics. On paper it seems great, it's tiny 2.25" x 1.5" x 2.25" and has a slightly higher overall flow at 159gph. Once I got it in hand I have to say it seems too good to be true to be more powerful and so much smaller, oh plus the power cord comes out the top instead of the back which again helps with placement. Once installed it is noticeably more powerful. I need to get some new 1/2" tube as this new pump is shorter and I really had to stretch my current cut to get it to reach. Haven't setup the Skimmer except to place it in the tank. Seems to fit just fine. My main concern right now is why the skimmer isn't in chamber two. I would think you'd want your foam filter right at the intake grate. When excess food or other things get sucked back they have a long way to go before hitting foam. I'll see how it goes, but I'll trust someone at Fluval had a good reason to do it this way.... and by Fluval I kinda mean whatever overseas company sold this to them to market. The LED is heavy and gets pretty hot. I shot it with my temp gun and it was maybe 112F. One of the undocumented aspects is that the light will resume the mode it was on if it loses power. So while it doesn't have a timer, you simply have to plug it into one. I happened to have been gifted a ConnectSense HomeKit Enabled outlet and finally have a use for it. I can plug in my light and set a timer in the app. I can even override it from the app anywhere in the world. The blue light mode is sorta useless except when you really want to use it. The blue is actually too bright for a night time setting. I turned off my room lights to watch a movie in the same room as the tank. I thought the blue light would be better when watching the movie but honestly it was actually worse. The blue light is at best a party trick to show off corals and their glow. But that's okay it was a cheap stock light, it'll do the trick and seems bright enough to support coral life. I got my sand at a LFS and they only had a 20lb bag of CaribSea Live Sand Special Grade (would have rather used a 10lb). I used a little more than half of it. For rock I ordered CaribSea Aquatics Life Rock 20lb on Amazon. The rock was clean and varied. There are nice different types of pieces. A lot of times you get different shapes and sizes but they otherwise are the same. This has pieces that had drastically different looks. I tossed majority of what I got into the tank. I'll mess with is more later, but it looks pretty good right now. It's been running for a little less than a week. Did my first test, high nitrates, and some lingering Ammonia and Nitrites. I think I skipped dosing one day using Fluval cycle, but it should be ready for livestock soon.
  24. Been trying to figure out what kind of fox face is this. Any clue?
  25. Mike P

    New Clown added

    Hello all, I just added a new clown and have notice he swims near the surface when lights go out. Is that normal? I’m new to salt water and have already cycled my tank before adding him and I did acclimate him with the drip method. He was added 2 days ago
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