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  1. Make moving Your Corals safe and Secure! The Transporter That Does Double Duty! So What makes this Coral Transporter special you might ask, well let me tell you the reasons why. First of all this coral Transporter has room for 8 coral frag plugs, inside each cutout there is a special membrane inside to lock your frags in place. No more scattered frags when you use this transporter! Let’s look at the stem/handle of the frag rack itself, made from a solid core of acrylic that is screwed and glued to the base, this is a solid piece of gear! The lid of the Frag transporter is also special with its internal gasket that will have your corals locked in safe and sound, no more worries about leaks! Another great benefit of the cutouts and membrane holder is that it can accommodate multiple different sized frag plugs! Gone are those days of the frag plug that just won’t fit. And last but most certainly not least the Frag Transporter can pull double duty with the Magnet Mount Accessory! That’s right, with the Magnet Mount Accessory you can take your frags from the transporter, leave them in the holder and place them into the Mount , then straight into your aquarium!! While we are at it why don’t we see what others have to say about this awesome system! Lets look at a few more! https://www.reef2rainforest.com/2020/02/14/new-icecap-coral-frag-transport-container/ NOT SATISFIED YET?!?????? Check this out! https://reefs.com/2020/05/14/new-st...transport-container-magnetic-frag-tray-mount/ I believe the Jury is in on the New IceCap Coral Frag Transporter and Magnet Mount Accessory , we have a winner.... or in this case GUILTY AS CHARGED FOR BEING AWESOME , INNOVATIVE,AND BEING BUILT RIGHT!
  2. Have you ever struggled with low PH? Has your coral growth slowed? Have you tried a CO2 scrubber yet? They work very well I assure you! I myself have been a victim of low PH especially in the summer and winter. You see at those times of year I have to keep my home closed up from the elements. I’d love to be able to open up all my windows all the time , but that’s just not realistic or possible with brutal Midwest heat and humidity. Let’s not even discuss bone chilling winters. Not everyone has all of the seasons I do but most of us have at least one time of the year that we can’t have our humble abodes open to the fresh air. This is exactly the time that CO2 scrubber comes in handy! So let me tell you my results with my first CO2 Scrubber. I was having a hard time maintaining 7.8-8.0 Ph on a daily diurnal swing. My coral growth had slowed, my alkalinity and calcium consumption had dropped dramatically and my tank just didn’t look right. Sound familiar?? The search was on for a solution, 😂 My mind begin to work! After some online searching I found some information about CO2 scrubbers . What’s this scrubber thing you speak of? What does it do? What’s the benefits? Well a Ph scrubber is basically a chamber or reactor that holds CO2media ( calcium hydroxide) and (sodium hydroxide). When you pass air laden with Carbon Dioxide through the reactor/scrubber media, the CO2 is absorbed by the media and fresh air continues on to your aquarium. This is generally done by connecting the air intake line of your skimmer to the reactor/scrubber. As CO2 is scrubbed out before fresh air is delivered to the aquarium your PH increases because your skimmer is no longer pumping CO2 laden air into the tank. Genius!! Let me show you a few pictures of what this looks like.😊 So we’ve gone over the basics of what a scrubber is , what it does , and what it helps with. Now we need to chat about one more important thing, the media. How do you know if the media is good? How do you know when it’s bad? How long does it last?.Glad you asked !! 😂 The media is white when it is fresh and in it’s sealed container. It won’t stay that way as it absorbs CO2. The IceCap media will turn Pink in color as it absorbs CO2. Once the media has sufficiently turned Pink it should be removed and discarded. If you leave the media in the scrubber after this point it could turn back to white, but it isn’t actually working any longer.Lets take a quick look at the media when it needs to be changed. At this point you can see the media has been sufficiently used and should be discarded.The time it takes for your to turn from white to pink will vary . Every aquarium and environment is different. Now what’s the point of all this? Well the end result of adding a CO2 Scrubber can substantially help with low PH. My PH now is sustained at 8.0-8.3 during my tanks diurnal swing. That’s a nice increase and my corals are much happier and are again growing wonderfully!
  3. BLACKBear7777

    Fast worms in tank

    hey guys. A few days ago when feeding my candy cane coral and small worm, least I think it was a worm I didn’t get a good look because it was so fast, stold a piece of food off the coral and disappeared back into a hole. It was very fast. Faster than I’ve seen a bristle worm move. I Fw dipped the rock and the coral because I was afraid of bobbits. I saw many bristle worms and pods come out of the rock dead. I didn’t see whatever ate the food assuming it was a worm. I have previously seen small white worms try to take pellets from the coral but they didn’t move that fast when I watched. Should I be worried about bobbits? I have had the rock for 7+ years. I just changed my tabk to a biocube 32 Gal led. Didn’t add any more rock and only recent addition was the candy cane, a drag with two heads cut directly from the mother coral not on a coral plug. Should I be scared of bobbits? Rock and Cora is below. Coral total size is about the diameter of a quarter. Rock is maybe baseball size
  4. BLACKBear7777

    Candy cane coral dead?

    I Fw dipped my candy cane coral because I discovered a bobbit worm living in the rock. I killed the bobbit but 24 hours later my candy canes looks like crap. Is there a chance they’ll regenerate or are they dead? My tank is a stock biocube 32 gallon, water parameters are 0 nitrites, 0 ammonia, 8.0-8.2 pH (partially colorblind in blue spectrum so I can’t tell which), nitrates 5-10 ppm. I can’t test other parameters but they were doing fine before the dip. https://imgur.com/gallery/aeEehjp Image of what they look like today
  5. Starfishie99

    55G REEF

    I’m starting up a 55 gallon. Not exactly yet but if i don’t start a thread now then i know i won’t keep track 😉 going to start by buying an acrylic tank and we’ll go from there
  6. Starfishie99

    need some help! corals?

    got these two corals and i need some help figuring out what they are one is soft almost like an anemone the green one is harder thats really all i can say about them
  7. Hello everyone, I have been reading here for a few months now and have learnt a lot from you guys. This is my first post here! About my tank: The tank is 60L, 4 months old since completion of cycling. It has 10kg of white porous rock (the one imported from the US I think?) and a sandbed of 2-3cm thick. It has 3 snails, 1 cleaner shrimp, 1 peppermint and 2 small clownfish. Fish is growing and shrimps are doing fine. I also have 1 trumpet coral, 1 Duncan and 1 mushroom - all growing like crazy (2->8 heads for trumpet and 2->10 heads for Duncan). The tank only has a pump (Jebao) and does not have any HoB filter or sump. I have a blackbox lighting which has been working fine for me. The tank has been fine, despite some hair algae which is in control thanks to my hardworking snails... I use Redsea blue bucket salt and aim for .025-026. I do 20% water change every week, and refill the tank with RODI water every day to compensate the water loss. No Ammonia, no nitrite. Nitrate is undetectable by testkit. PO4 is also undetectable. I do not have testkits for testing other elements, but they should be close to what Redsea blue salt indicates on the bucket (I know in theory I can never fully recover the consumed elements over time).... So my guess is: Alk: ~8.0 / Ca: 400 / Mg: 1220 .... About the Stylophora coral in question: I have bought a stylophora milka SPS coral last Friday and put it on my sandbed after acclimation and coralDx dip. The 2nd day every polyp opened. But since Monday it has been getting worse and worse everyday. You can see a pic comparing Sunday (left)/ Wednesday (middle) / Today (right). More and more polyps diappeared from their 'holes' and the coral body becomes more 'pale' day by day. I also got a Montis Cap frag last Friday and all polys of it are open so I assume it is happy. I do not plan to get any SPS that is difficult to keep with my system. The only reason I got the Stylophora is that I read it is an easy SPS and can be kept in system like mine. The Stylophora receives mid-flow and mid-light (~200PAR). I am running out of options now and desperate to find anything I can do to make it better. A few things I have thought about: 1) Flow too low - I tried to give it a little more flow but it did not help; 2) Light too low - Do you think I should put it to the top of the rock (~350 PAR)? 3) Mg too loow - I know my Mg may be a bit low for SPS, but I am using the mixing ratio on the blue bucket for 'SPS dominant tank'. Is the dosing my only option now? 4) Nitrate too low - I've also read Nitrate ~0 is bad for SPS. But I wonder if this is the issue here? ........ I would be really grateful if you can let me know if any of the above 4 (or anything else you can think of) could be the issue and to hear any advice you can give so I can try to help the stylo. PS: Some holes show no sign of polyps - does that mean those polyps already died? Thank you all! Cheers, Deisler
  8. mynewtank

    New Torch coral ??!!!

    It took me 58 years to be able to afford a saltwater aquarium. I have exactly 6 months experience with my saltwater tank. I've managed to kill a clownfish, yellow tang, one bubble anemone and a frog spawn. I've been spending a small fortune having a guy come over to service the tank - The place I bought my 35 gal. tank from sold me a freshwater filter and 3K later stopped answering my calls. I found another place and they've been helpful but I need to learn how to handle this tank. I really don't mind putting the work into it. I just don't have a clue. Yesterday I added a torch coral and it doesn't seem to be opened the way it was at the store. I'm thinking I may be the grim reaper of saltwater aquariums. Any help would be very much appreciated.
  9. Hi, this is my first time posting here and I am wandering what sort if worm this is ( sorry the photo is bad) and whether it's bad or not and if so, the best way to get rid of it. I got up this morning and saw it. When I turned the aquarium light on, it seemed to try and slink back. This is my first marine set-up although I've had cold and tropical fresh water fish for years. Any help and tips would be greatly appreciated, Thanks!
  10. Is "Going Slow" the most controversial reefing topic? I could be wrong, but I presume everyone has heard the old reefer's motto: "Nothing good happens fast in a reef tank." I don't know who said it first*, but they were dead on. So how is it that, regardless of experience or circumstance, we all still seem to have tanks that are already full of fish (and usually corals too) within six months or a year when we are newbs? And why is it that when the "go slow" thing is brought up that we all seem to think we're going as slow as possible "because I see everyone else doing it this way"? Lastly, why is it that we don't connect our poor results (sick fish, etc) up with our disregard of this rule? I don't get it. Do you? I know there are folks who do go slow...you are exceptions that prove the rule. It would be great if some of you would share your experiences. * The saying predates me, BTW, and I "got in" around 1990.
  11. Hi everyone I am brand new here and thinking of starting my first reef tank!!! I want to have a reef tank any where from 20 to 40 gallons and I want to be able to grow all kinds off coral. I also want to only spend $250 on the tank, light, filter and rock. Please any suggestions will help. Thanks!
  12. Will 6500k LEDs Grow Coral? What do you Guys think?
  13. I used to be REALLY into fish when I was younger, but once I hit HS I switched to larger more emotive pets. I'm currently in university studying to be a marine biologist and suddenly got the itch again. But this time I wanted a marine tank, now that I can not only drive by myself but also have my own finances. This tank started back in January of this year. She fully cycled in 1 month through a mix of patience and some added bacteria. Shes had only 1 ammonia spike, which led to a few zoa losses, and my first pair of clowns passed due to unknown circumstances (I believe bad quarantine from the store, I heard from an employee that they only QT for 1 week). My new clown (different store) is doing well. I've got a new batch of zoas and some GORGEOUS LPS. I'm ADDICTED to color and movement (title *teehee) and am already planning on expanding. I should probably start at the beginning though for anyone who might be interested. Day 1: Jan 22 - Bought used for $200 + $20 (delivery) Week 2: Started the ammonia cycle on day 1 using frozen brine shrimp cubes. Added Fritz zyme 9 on day 14
  14. So I set up a 2gal Pico jar about a month ago using cycled water from my 36gal tank and some live rock I picked up locally. It was originally going to house sexy shrimp or a harlequin shrimp but to make a long story short I moved my pistol shrimp/goby pair to it. It's still a little bare but I added a small frag of star polyps and a decent sized frag of pulsing xenia. They were doing fantastic until last week when I was doing my weekly 25% water change in the pico, I wasnt thinking and dropped my salinity too low by diluting my salt water too much. My xenias closed up completely and the following morning they looked pretty freakin miserable. Some of the "fingers" (if you want to call them that) had completely turned black and shriveled up like a dehydrated hotdog and I noticed also that the Xenia had split in 2 (the splitting is normal so I hear). I monitored it this passed week, it has its color back and looks like its regaining its life. It's not fully opened up but it's back to pulsing. You guys tell me your opinion! *Top 2 are before I goofed up, bottom 2 are from today (4/7/20)*:
  15. undertheseaquarium

    Vermatid snail(s)???

    For the past couple of weeks, I noticed this thing on my coral that seems to have gotten bigger. When I first got it, I thought it was apart of the coral. I'm guessing this is a vermatid snail with possibly another. Could anyone confirm this, so I can begin the removal process.
  16. 505nano

    505Nano*New 16 Biocube

    Hello all, new to this forum and the nano community. I currently have a 54 Gal Aqueon corner tank, which was my first saltwater tank. I have successfully had that tank running from July 2019 and in that time, I instantly fell in love with owning and maintaining ( weird, I know) a saltwater aquarium, its almost therapeutic. I find myself now always looking for places to put a tank in my small ish home and I decided to look for nano for my bedroom. Marineandreef had a sweet deal for the 16 biocube with stand for $269 (after discount and sale) and I decided it was time to expand ha. After convincing wifey (really just ordering and apologizing after), I found myself tracking and waiting. Fast fwd to today, I have the stand set up in the corner of our room with the nano boxed back up ( did not want the toddlers to move it around and possibly drop it empty). I am currently studying, reading the journals and ordering the necessary items needed to begin the tank and start the cycle (so much fun, bleh). Enough backstory, the following will be about the nano I decided to start a journal from the very beginning of this nano to notate what is planned and get advice. As far as Filtration, I have decided to use the included basket for now with the following in order: Poly Filter Floss SeaChem Purigen SeaChem Matrix bio-media in bag (obviously) I have contemplated so much on the filtration and am open to any suggestions. I do not think I will be doing a refug at this time, so that will not be currently considered. The Heater I have decided to go with is the Aqueon Pro 100W, which will be placed in the 1st chamber after false floor is removed. Rock & Substrate: Walt Smith Reef Rock 2.1 20lb dry purple rock Carribsea fiji pink live sand 20lb I do plan on taking some of the smaller pieces of live rock from my current 54 gal to assist in seeding nano. Wavemaker will be the Jebao SW2. This is the brand I currently use on my 54 Gal, and have had no issues and love the controllers for them. I do not plan on modifying the led lighting just yet. Also, I will NOT be running a skimmer on this nano at this time, as I don't mind maintenance and will be planning on weekly 5 gal water changes. Now, Salt.. When I started my 54 gal, I initially went with IO salt as I was not planning on having coral, but of course I was seduced by the beauty.. now I am wanting to switch to some type of high quality reef salt for both tanks. I am leaning more towards Red Sea Coral Pro Salt, I would love any input on this! As far as livestock, I am planning on having 2 designer clownfish (havent really decided on type yet) and maybe a firefish or goby, also undecided lol I will have a clean up crew consisting of a couple trochus, cerrith and maybe astrea snails as well as a couple hermits and debating on a fighting conch. I am undecided on which corals I will be adding just yet, as I want to aquascape first and see where I can place them, which will better determine what I decide on. I will be posting on this journal for anyone who would like to keep up with the nano build. Let me know if anyone has any advice or critique! Thank you! 505nano
  17. Hey guys! Setting up my first saltwater tank. It's a 10 gallon IM Fusion nano. Wondering if this powerhead placement will be ok. It's a koralia 425 + 95gph stock return pump (top right of pic). Trying to hide the PH in the back left, with return outlet top right. Flow hits front glass and swirls around. Will this do for a mixed reef tank? Planning on getting SPS eventually down the line. Thanks!!
  18. Ok, I have a few questions and figured I would roll all this into one post. So over the last few weeks my zoas have closed up and are not looking good, but my Star Polyps seem very happy. I also have a rock flower that seems to be doing well. I got a Galaxea a few weeks ago but I think it may be dead. It arrived a mostly white color with some green on it and now it just looks all white. I think my salinity could be high, not sure if my hydrometer is wrong. It showed as being in the 1.30 range so I added some more fresh water and I will check it again in the morning. Here are the water parameters: PH: 8.0 Nitrate: 5.0-10.0 ppm Ammonia: 0 ppm Nitrite: 0 ppm Phosphate: 0 (Did not really detect much on the test) Alkalinity: 9.8 dKH Calcium: 490-500 ppm Magnesium: 1600+ ppm ------ Before owning this tank, I owned a fluval eco 13.5 for about a year when I transferred that tank over into a new 22.4 Fiji Cube AIO. This was just before Christmas, and overall there has been no major issues. I got the new AI Prime 16 HD light for the tank, but overall have been frustrated with the controllability of the light. It does not come with any instructions and the AI support basically said "we don't have support videos yet but we should soon." I am trying to figure out the ideal lighting settings for this light, I am getting a ton of brown algae on the glass, I clean it off and it's back again within an hour. I really would like more of a blue tint to cut back on the white light, just need to know the right mix. The other issue I have is using just the blue light at night. The light has a moon mode, but it is not actually blue and it is useless the way the settings for the moon mode are configured. So I tried to alter the settings to run just the blue channel after the main light goes off for the day, the problem is the blue channel will run all night until the regular schedule resumes in the morning. Ideally, I would like the normal lights to come on at 8am and be off by 5 pm with the blue lights on till about 12 am. ----- Lastly, a few weeks ago I bought a watchman goby and a pistol shrimp, the shrimp was very small. It crawled in the rock within 5 minutes and I have not seen the shrimp since and I took apart the rocks to look for it. Is it a goner? Sorry for the long post, just trying to get this all figured out so I can have some better luck with my corals. Thanks!
  19. Spark326

    Light for 10g tank

    Are these specs ok for a 10g tank with a small polythoa coral frag?I would also really love to get a bubble tip anemone for my clownfish..Are there other cheaper alternatives to T5 and the other well known lights? Anything under $40?
  20. Spark326

    Identify this frag

    Can someone identify this frag? What kind of zoanthid is it?
  21. Hobbs

    Hobbs's 8gal Nuvo Reef

    Hobbs's 8gal Nuvo Reef Chronicling the development of a pristine nano ecosystem. Goal: minimize weekly maintenance while maintianing a portable and hardy marine reef Specs: Tank: Nuvo Aquarium Nano Reef 0202 8 gallon capacity Filtrations: Mechanical Sponge, activated carbon sponge, phosphate sponge Light: 8 watt 14,000k (6 white diodes, 4 blue) Sand: Arag-Alive Bahamas Oolite Live Rock: 6.6 lbs of cured live rock, fairly porous but could be better. Coralline growth present Water: R/O with salt from LFS. Total water is 5 gallons Start date: 8/5/17 Reasoning: Wanted a small durable aquarium that would be easy to move every year. Modern and sleek design with LEDs was a massive plus. Wanted to maximize biological filtration so wanted as fine as sand as possible and as much rock that would asthetically fit in the tank Initial thoughts: The tank is too small for all the fish I want, the sand is too fine, the light needs to be stronger. Still looks super cool. Plans: Have 2 small fish, maximize symbiotic pairings, have lots of inverts and corals. Maybe future anemone or clam (need vast lighting overhaul first, I know )
  22. NanoOceanio

    Nano Reef Tank

    Hello all reef keepers, I have just made the transfer from freshwater to saltwater by purchasing the Fluval EVO 12 gal. aquarium tank and I can not tell you all how excited how I am to add some livestock. I am looking for a pair of clowns, a watchmen goby and pistol shrimp, also would really love a royal gramma but do not know if the tank is big enough for one. And of course a cleaner crew, but unsure if I should wait until after I get fish. I am honestly more intrigued about the coral life and would love to hear your opinions on how I should establish/stock my aquarium. The whole setup is stock, and I will not be using that clear tube as my output flow do not worry I have ordered the dual output flow nozzle because for some odd reason that piece was missing from the kit. Anyway, I needed an opinion on my aquascape. Is there too much live rock? Also, if any of can share any beginner coral recommendations and placement ideas for the aquascape it will be greatly appreciated. I have a few ideas in mind, but I am open to others and would much appreciate any tips, feedback, or advice that any of you can share. Thanks!
  23. Manifest_reef

    Weird white tentacles on rock?

    I have these small clear tentacles growing on my rock. Some even have tulip shaped cups on them? Is this the apocalypse? Someone please ID if you can!
  24. Azure Phoenix Reefing

    Cyphastrea or Leptastrea? Or...?

    I recently bought a frag, advertised as a Cyphastrea, however, I am starting to think it's a Leptastrea...I was looking for good and somewhat beginner friendly encrusting corals, which lead me to Cyphastrea, among others. But the more I look into both coral species, the more I'm thinking I bought a Leptastrea. Would love to hear your thoughts 😀 and thanks a bunch already for having a look! (Apologies for the blues and quality, I'm keeping my fingers crossed for Santa to help me out with a camera filter 😇)
  25. So I recently had a bit of a tank crash, during this crash most of my sps rtn'd or started to stn pretty aggressively. During this time I noticed a bit of an oddity with my springers damselfish, it actively attacked and ate any flesh which was loose. In the aftermath one of the euphyllia I had ended up with brown-jelly and sure enough it was eating the polyps of that animal as well. During this time I've also seen it nip at, but leave visually-undamaged the surviving montipora, haven't noticed it going after the remaining, healthier euphyllia either. Leading up to the crash I did notice that a stylophora was missing polyps, never saw the fish go after them and assumed it was stress from having Dino's in the tank, now I'm not as certain. My question is, will most carnivorous fish go after dying coral flesh if they have the opportunity? Or is this behavior something to be concerned about, potentially warranting the capture and removal of the fish as a cause of stress and possible predator of the corals in the tank?
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