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  1. blogpotato

    Adequate lighting for clams

    Hi. Can i ask what kind of clams can my quad t5 24watt lights support ? It is about 6inches above the water level and the tank is about 18inches in height. Thank you for any inputs.
  2. basser1

    Zeph..... This Is for You

    Hey man, I know how you love your clams! I saw this today on Reef-Builders and thought of you. It is about a nice big Giga clam. The clams' opening is so big you can almost put your hand in it! Here's the link with some nice pics: http://reefbuilders.com/2014/06/10/triton-reefs-big-ole-gigas-clam/ ENJOY!!!
  3. Urchinhead

    A FAQ on Clams

    Because this seems to come up time and time again here and because I had many questions that had contradicting answers about having a clam in a nano sized tank under less then metal halide lighting I did quite a bit of research on the subject and have consolidated it into a FAQ. Clams Scientific Information: Phylum: Mollusca Class: Bivalvia Order: Veneroida Family: Tridacnidae Genus: Tridacna Species: Multiple. See below Common Names: Crocea, Derasa, Gigas, Maxima, Squamosa, giant clam, fluted clam Origin: Indo-Pacific Introduction: This article is divided into 2 sections. General Information and clam specific information based on species. General Information contains general notes on husbandry, disease, and predation while species specific sections deal with specific clam species broken out by type of clam and contains specific details on tank size, diet requirements, special needs, and the like. General Information: There are five species of clam commonly found in the aquarium trade and they are some of the most beautiful non-fish species one can have in a tank. They also have a reputation of being very fragile, difficult to keep, require expensive equipment/lighting, and great attention to detail on the status of the tank so keeping one should be attempted by only experienced reef/salt water tank hobbyists with Metal Halide lighting and constantly monitored and controlled tank parameters. This common belief is based more on word of mouth and urban myth than actual empirical evidence and as such should be discarded by the salt water enthusiast wanting to attempt a clam in their tank. Clams are colorful, interesting, and beneficial additions to a stable and mature tank. I say beneficial because they are a source of nitrate and phosphate uptake[1] which means that they will help to keep your tank environment clear of these unwanted contaminants and assist in control of nuisance algae and tank stability. Please note that while clams will help in the control and export of nitrate and phosphate they should not be placed in tanks with high levels of either and should not be used as a primary form of export of these contaminants as the total uptake per clam is not sufficient to deal with a high level of either and high levels of either will hurt and possibly kill the clam. Something more suited to the task such as water changes and/or macro algae such as Chaetomorpha should be used. It should be noted that as with all marine animals and corals each particular individual will vary in terms of hardiness and ease of care but as a whole the various species of clam can be a very welcome and interesting addition to a nano aquarium with the understanding that when selecting a clam species the tank environment where the clam will be placed must be capable of supporting said species of clam and that there is more to keeping a clam healthy and happy than just dropping it in the tank and hoping for the best. While clams, like some corals, primarily rely on symbiotic zooxanthellae colonies for nutrient generation and thus are considered photosynthetic feeders (more on this below) the actual coloration of a clam's mantle doesn't come from the zooxanthellae itself. It comes from cells called iridophores that contain color pigments. These pigments are mainly in the color range of blue to brown or green to yellow and the pigments' purpose is to protect the clam against excessive light and UV radiation.[1] Clams should be placed in tanks that are over six months old and are stable. The reason behind this is that, like most all invertebrates, they do not tolerate rapid and/or large changes in various parameters such as salinity and ammonia/nitrate/nitrite/etc and a tank is still considered to be going through its initial cycling period and not truly 'stable' until about the 6 month mark. Clams can close their shells with enough force to expel a large volume of water. Clams placed near the top of the tank can squirt with enough force to strike the lighting system or areas surrounding the tank. Clam's can also accidentally trap fish. Fish that perch such as watchman gobies or hawkfish can become trapped as can overly curious fish that explore the clam or swim too closely. This situation is usually fatal for either the clam or the fish. The more the fish struggles the more the clam will close and stay closed meaning that the clam must be manually pried open most likely killing the clam or the fish dies at some rate depending on the part of the fish captured. Clams should be placed on as flat a surface as possible with the byssal opening (bottom of the shell) facing down and the mantle facing as directly up as possible. Do not place the clam between large rocks, inside small holes, or against a wall as it may prevent it from opening fully. A clam may also fall over several times before it attaches. Small rocks can be placed around the clam to help it stay upright but care should be taken to make sure that the rocks are not limiting the clam's ability to open. Repeated falls or prolonged lack of attachment can be indicative of an unhappy clam usually due to suboptimal lighting and/or too high a water flow and thus the clam should be repositioned. Clams are susceptible to stings from aggressive corals and anemone so care should be taken to ensure that the clam is not within stinging range of either. Crocea and Maxima species of clam are found in rocky habitats in the wild and have very fine gills so it is best to place them on rocks or if in the sand bed on top of a small rock that sticks out slightly which will allow them to attach firmly to something and keep any fine sand from entering their gills. Squamosa, Derasa, and Giga's are best placed on sandy substrates with a rock underneath them as they will burrow down in the sand bed and attach themselves to the bottom of the tank. Clams will attach themselves to the substrate or rock via their byssal gland aka foot. Once attached care should be taken in attempting to move a clam and if the clam comes already attached to something it is best to leave it attached and glue or place securely that object to the spot in the tank where the clam is to be placed. The best species of clam for Nano tanks are the Crocea, Squamosa, and Maxima. Crocea can be kept in the smaller nano tanks, under 20 gallon, as they will reach a maximum size of about six inches while the Squamosa and Maxima's can reach sixteen inches when fully grown and as such thought should be given to what to do with the clam when it gets too big for the tank. It is important to note that keeping a clam in a smaller tank is more difficult than a larger tank, over 29 gallons, due to the feeding and water quality requirements of the clam. Lighting: The short answer to the question of what lighting is required for clams comes down to: It depends... The long answer is that after an exhaustive search for empirical studies on the lighting requirements of clams kept in the amateur/hobbyist aquarium no actual studies have been published at time of writing of this article. It is rumored that James Fatheree has a study of clam species under PC, T5, and MH lighting but at time of writing of this article there is no information in the public domain on this study. The common wisdom by experts in the field of aquarium husbandry[1], review of hobbyist articles[2][4] and deductions based on scientific articles on commercial clam husbandry[3] is that the higher the light level the better for the clam depending on the species of clam. This means that it is possible to keep a healthy clam under PC lighting just as it is possible to kill a clam kept under Metal Halide lighting depending on the species of clam and the individual clam itself. In general a minimum of T5 is best for the clams that will be comfortable in a nano tank with MH being optimal and PC possible with lower light requirement clams. The key being the lower the lighting the closer to the light the clam must be placed. So with PC lighting the clam should be near the top 10-15% of the tank or in a shallow depth tank. With T5 and depending on the species of clam and depth of the tank the upper third of the tank is best. With MH and again depending on the species of clam the clam should be in the lower third of the tank. Water Parameters: Previously the common wisdom was that clams obtain all of their nutritional requirements from the symbiotic zooxanthellae they host thus the need for high lighting. This has been found to be incorrect.[1] Clams under 3" in size rely primarily on filter feeding to sustain growth and clams over 3" still engage in filter feeding for actual nutrient intake as well as for key elements such as calcium and some nitrates, phosphate, and the like. More on key elements below. Thus water parameters are important to proper clam husbandry. Proper water flow is important to clams because of their filter feeding. They need enough flow to strain water through them for food but too much flow will cause the water to pass too quickly through them to properly filter out the needed nutrients and will irritate the clam causing it to close up. So they should be in a relatively moderate flow area of the tank and not directly in the path of a power head's stream. As a rule of thumb use the same flow requirements for moderate flow corals as you would a clam. A good indication of too much flow would be either the clam constantly retracting its mantle or the mantel blowing around. Tank temperature should be kept as stable as possible and in the range of 76-82 degrees F. PH should be as stable as possible and range between 8.2 and 8.4 Salinity should be as stable as possible and range between 1.022 and 1.026. Key elements that clams need for proper growth include calcium and to a much lesser extent nitrate, phosphate, etc. Calcium is the key element for a clam and should be maintained at the same levels required for corals, 400-450 ppm. Predators: Clams are not recommended in a tank that contains any of the following: Fish: Angels Some wrasses Butterfly's Triggers Puffers Tangs Some blennies All of these type of fish will nip at a clam's mantle. Parasites: Pyramidellidae (rice) snails Vermetidae snails Bristle worms Fire worms Invertebrates: Most larger crabs Lobsters Crabs and lobsters as well as some shrimp are opportunistic predators and have been known to go after clams once they realize that a relatively easy and stationary food source is available. Feeding: As noted above clams are primarily photosynthetic but do benefit from supplemental feeding. As they are filter feeders they will benefit from the same foods fed to most corals including: phytoplankton zooplankton oyster eggs It is possible to target feed but in general the same system used for feeding corals should be used for feeding clams. Turning off the power heads and filter system for 30-60 minutes followed by pouring of the food source into the water column will allow the clam to filter feed. Acclimation Process: Gradual. An example acclimation method would be to place the clam in a bucket or container with the water it came with, a heater, and a very small power head. Over a 30 to 40 minute period remove 4 oz of old water and replace it with 4 oz of water from your tank repeating every 7-10 minutes for about 30-40 minutes. (Note this assumes you have more than 12 oz of original water and that the original water is not fouled or contaminated. Drip method would be best if you do not have at least 12 oz of original water) It is also important to 'burp' a clam.[2] When moving a clam from one location to another where the clam is out of the water it is possible for the clam to develop a potential air embolism due to some air being drawn into the gills of the clam. When the transfer is complete gently rotate the clam 360' several times to release any trapped air bubbles. Things to watch out for: As with all invertebrates copper based medications are fatal to clams. Clams are sensitive to rapid shifts in salinity, temperature, and PH which can be fatal. A good indication of a healthy clam is does it react quickly to stimuli such as a shadow passing over it? If the clam rapidly closes itself then reopens itself after you pass your hand over it to cause a shadow or a fish swims over it then your clam is most likely healthy. Clams have a byssal gland, also known as a foot, which they use to attach themselves to substrate or rocks. Care should be taken when dealing with a clams byssal gland when moving the clam. Damage to the byssal gland is usually fatal. If the clam needs to be moved lift the shell gently and with a sharp knife cut the byssal threads as close to the substrate as possible Pinched/Ruffled Mantle: The mantle will curl in and up fashion and continues in this state until the clam expires. Per clamsdirect.com it is believed that pinched mantle is caused by an unidentified protozoan and the treatment recommended is a fresh water dip in PH/Temp adjusted RO water for 25 minutes. After dip the clam should be gently shaken to remove the RO water and then placed into a Hospital tank if possible. The possible use of a UV Sterilizer should be considered for use on the main tank in order to eliminate any free floating organisms. While this is not specifically discussed on clamsdirect.com logic dictates that the use of UV light to kill said free floating organisms is successful in other types of like diseases and parasites thus it may be appropriate for clams as well. Gaping: Clams have an intake siphon and an output siphon. The intake siphon looks somewhat like a mouth and is a slit opening that is found on the center line off to one side of the mantle while the output siphon looks like a cone or rod. A clam is considered to be gaping when the intake siphon is open very wide almost like a tear. Indication of gaping vs. normal feeding would be not only that the intake siphon is open abnormally wide but that the mantle isn't extending normally and the shell is fully open. Gaping is caused by poor lighting, parasites, or poor health and if gaping continues the clam will not recover. Treatment should be examination for parasites followed by moving the clam to a higher or lower level in the tank depending on its proximity to the light source. Bleaching: Bleaching is exhibited as spots or areas of discoloration (white) on parts of the mantle and is usually caused by suboptimal lighting but can also be caused by parasites. Treatment should be to first examine shell for boring worms or sponges, snails, and the like then treat for poor lighting. Clam Species: Common Name: Crocea Scientific Name: Tridacna Crocea Max size: 6 Inches Tank size: Possible in tanks under 20 gallons Recommended in tanks >30 gallons Food: Photosynthetic but benefits from zoo & phyto plankton Reef safe: Yes Lighting Req: High. T5 or above Placement: On rocks Notes: Should be placed middle to high up in the rock work depending on the color intensity of the mantle. Blue requires more light than green or brown. Prefers moderate flow and will attach firmly to rock. Easy to care for and moderately hardy but does require more light than bottom dwellers. Possible to keep under PC lighting but strongly not recommended. Purchase clams over 2" in size as smaller has a high mortality rate. Will reach maximum size in 5-7 years. Common Name: Maxima Scientific Name: Tridacna Maxima Max size: 6 Inches Tank size: Possible in tanks under 30 gallons Recommended in tanks >30 gallons Food: Photosynthetic but benefits from zoo & phyto plankton Reef safe: Yes Lighting Req: High. T5 or above Placement: On rocks Notes: Should be placed middle to high up in the rock work depending on color intensity of mantle. Blue requires more light than green or brown. Largest color spectrum of all clams. Needs supplemental feeding for proper growth. Prefers moderate flow and will attach firmly to rock. Can be difficult to keep and is less hardy than other clam spcies. Tank size above 50 gallons is recommended due to potential size. Will reach maximum size in 5-7 years. Purchase clams over 2" in size as smaller has a high mortality rate. Common Name: Derasa Scientific Name: Tridacna Derasa Max size: 18 Inches Tank size: Possible in tanks under 50 gallons Recommended in tanks >50 gallons Food: Photosynthetic but benefits from zoo & phyto plankton Reef safe: Yes Lighting Req: Moderate. PC or above Placement: Low in tank but on rock Notes: Should be placed low in the tank but not directly on sand bed as clam will blow away sand and attach to glass on bottom. If under PC lighting higher up in the tank is required. If under T5 or above they can be placed on the sand bed but should have a rock buried under them to attach to. Prefers moderate flow and will attach firmly to rock. Is hardy and more low light tolerant than Maxima or Crocea. Tank size above 50 gallons is recommended due to potential size. Will reach maximum size in 5-7 years. Purchase clams over 4" in size as smaller has a high mortality rate and require manual feeding of phytoplankton. Common Name: Squamosa Scientific Name: Tridacna Squamosa Max size: 16 Inches Tank size: Possible in tanks under 50 gallons Recommended in tanks >50 gallons Food: Photosynthetic but benefits from zoo & phyto plankton Reef safe: Yes Lighting Req: Moderate. PC or above Placement: Low in tank but on rock Notes: Should be placed low in the tank but not directly on sand bed as clam will blow away sand and attach to glass on bottom. If under PC lighting higher up in the tank is required. If under T5 or above they can be placed on the sand bed but should have a rock buried under them to attach to. Prefers moderate flow and will attach firmly to rock. Is hardy and more low light tolerant than Maxima or Crocea. Tank size above 50 gallons is recommended due to potential size. Will reach maximum size in 5-7 years. Purchase clams over 4" in size as smaller has a high mortality rate and require manual feeding of phytoplankton. Leave plenty of room around clam for growth. Common Name: Giga Scientific Name: Tridacna Giga Max size: 52 Inches (4.25 Feet) Tank size: Possible in tanks under 100 gallons Recommended in tanks >100 gallons Food: Photosynthetic but benefits from zoo & phyto plankton Reef safe: Yes Lighting Req: Moderate. PC or above Placement: Low in tank but on rock Notes: Should be placed low in the tank but not directly on sand bed as clam will blow away sand and attach to glass on bottom. If under PC lighting higher up in the tank is required. If under T5 or above they can be placed on the sand bed but should have a rock buried under them to attach to. Prefers moderate flow and will attach firmly to rock. Is hardy and more low light tolerant than Maxima or Crocea. Purchase clams over 4" in size as smaller has a high mortality rate and require manual feeding of phytoplankton. Leave plenty of room around clam for growth. This clam is NOT recommended for any tank under 100 gallons as it can grow to 4.25 feet and weigh over 500 lbs. References: [1] Ronald L. Shimek, PhD; James W. Fatherree, MS; Robert Fenner, MS [2] http://www.clamsdirect.com/forum/index.php [3] www.ctsa.org/upload/publication/ CTSA_143631672855187292852.pdf [4] http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tridacsysfaqs.htm
  4. basser1

    How About A Disco Clam?

    Saw this on Reef-Builders: Take a look at this neat light show from a Disco Clam!! It would do John Travolta proud!!!
  5. ns1166

    Clams under Kessil A150

    I have a 28 gallon jbj nano cube. It was the nano cube hqi but I replaced the lid with an open top and kessil A150. Just wondering if I would be able to have a squamosa or a derasa clam under the kessil? I would be placing it higher up in the rock work.
  6. NanoTank1

    Clams - Reef Salt Choice

    I know that the composition of each reef salt differs. Any favorite for a tank with a clam...?
  7. So this is really 2 questions. I have seen Zeph say carbon dosing is great for clams. Can he, or anyone explain? I understand they may be carbon limited, but what part of the dosing do they benefit from? Direct consumption of bacteria? I tried a literature review and couldn't find much about clams directly consuming bacteria, zooxanthellae yes, but we don't don't know if carbon dosing increases those in an aquarium. I did find a paper stating clams can Ingest particle sizes of 6-50um, which is in the range of bacteria sizes we find in the aquaria, especially if you count aggregations of bacteria, but the type and quantity I couldn’t find anything about. There was a paper that suggested supplementary filter feeding was important in deeper water species as maxima (I think it was these species) and derasa had the same photosynthetic output so the deeper clam couldn’t meet the energy needs with the amount of light it received. The author came to the conclusion that the deeper water species could live in this environment not do to greater photosynthetic efficiency, but because of filter feeding. I bring that up only because would carbon dosing be not as important to high light requirement clams? Can they not use the carbon dosing (if eating carbon dosing increased species). Advanced Aquarist also ran an interesting article where they did not see much bacterial increase in the water column with vodka dosing. They said it was probable that the bacteria numbers did increase, but so the bacteria consumers. Would the clams possibly eat those bacteria consuming organisms? Just wondering how clams would use the carbon from carbon dosing. 2nd question. I know clams have lots of variability with light. But does anyone think crocea were so hard to keep because even under MH lights many just couldn’t get enough light? Like 1000 PAR plus? I had a crocea under 1500PAR led for almost a year. I moved him to 400PAR in another system and he died in a month. I wonder if those suckers (not all but some) need TONS of light, even higher than most MH systems.
  8. icedearth15324

    Clam Issue - Shell Split

    So my deresa clam which I have had for around a year, all of a sudden started looking really bad yesterday. All of a sudden it could no longer stand up on its own. I would pick it up, even stand it against a rock, but it would fall down. When I picked it up, it no longer felt solid like it used to, it felt like the two shell pieces were sliding apart, as if the tissue holding it together at the bottom had torn. I currently have it resting on a piece of putty, holding the clam together. Has anyone else experienced this? Any idea on what could have caused it? Will the clam recover if he has the putty keeping his shell together?(like a cast on a human bone) Here's a pic of it in the putty. I didn't get a chance to take a photo of the bottom of his shell though. But if you look at the photo, his shell no longer fully lines up properly. Thanks for any help.
  9. In fresh water tanks, it's said that bio-pellets are not a good idea because you don't have protein skimming (let's not argue over this those of you with koi ponds) or abundant filter feeders to filter out the excess bacteria. Thus nutrient export, which is the goal, isn't actually happening. So while at my local LFS, I spotted some good size freshwater clams. Lightbulb! It turns out that most fresh-water clams are pretty good at filter-feeding bacteria (allegedly). So why not use freshwater clams to filter-feed on the excess bacteria. It's nutrient export via clam growth. Anyway, to keep this simple, I'm going to put a small bag of bio-pellets in my HOB filter chamber, e.g. I'll pack them with some filter floss so they don't clump up. I bought a couple of clams and now plan to do a very unscientific study. My highly anecdotal premise is that if the clams live and my tank shows better "cleanliness", it's working! Probably. Working can be defined as I've got a good bacterial population living on the bio-pellets that are improving my ammonia/nitrate cycle - and then I've got clams eating up the excess bacteria. I have two nearly identical nano tanks so I'll run one of them with bio balls and clams and the other without. This is going to take a lot of time to figure out so I'm not going to do a play by play. If it seems to be working, I'll share the unscientific/anecdotal information. Yes, this is Nano-Reef but most fresh-water forums are not really at the level of reefers. Hell yeah we have egos! Comments? Jokes?
  10. I have a little 12 gallon nano cube that has been running for about 4 months. for filtration i have an in tank media basket with gfo, carbon, and algone. in the second chamber i have macro algae and a small light. Third chamber i have a heater and the stock pump. I also have a korialia 240 in there for more flow and eventually i will get a maxi jet 900. Ok so with all that said, I'm thinking about getting a clam in there. For lighting i have current true lumen led strip lights, i upgraded from the pc that came with it. i have 1 marine fusion 12,000k white/453nm blue and 1 deepwater 453nm blue actinic, is this enough for a clam. Im religious about the maintenance of my tank, i do weekly water changes. what do you guys think??????
  11. Utnapishtim

    Gaping Derasa

    As my parameters in my 46 have been stable the last few months I decided to get a few clams from liveaquaria, since I've always gotten good stock from them. I got one small maxima and a 3 and a half inch derasa. Both have been in for three days and seemed to be doing well. But starting today it's been going through periods of gaping. First it only did it for about an hour but now it's been doing so for several. I've had crocea and maxima before and never lost a clam, but this guy's worrying me a lot. The Maxima is still just fine as is everything else in the tank. I've not seen any creatures go after it. I can see that its still moving and trying to pump water, and the mantle hasn't retracted too far inside the shell, but it's not looking good. Byssal thread's not attached to anything but it was out last time I moved him, My stats are all good. No ammonia or nitrite. I've tested my nitrates and found 0, even had an lfs test to get the same result earlier today. Alkalinity and calcium are fine, so is PH. Is there anything I can do to save this guy? I hate to lose a clam.
  12. Enough light, placed at the bottom of my 33 gallon tank illuminated with Leds Par 38 Ecoxotic
  13. My maxima clam has what looks to be a small (approx. 1 mm) aiptasia on the inside of the shall and half of it cannot open. What should I do?
  14. malawian

    Maxima isnt doing great

    So this Maxima has been on and off since I got it. First it wouldnt open, then it was doing ok for a while, then I thought it had PM (but it didnt), then it was ok, now its gaping! she likes to throw me for a loop about every 3 days... This is the first time its gaped at all though and its gotten worse over the last 48 hours or so. I hadnt changed carbon or GFO in a while so i changed those out in case it was a chemical warfare or contaminant problem. Didnt seem to help. params are good: No3 .75 ppm PO4 .04 ppm Ca 400 ppm (raised it up) Mg 1400 ppm Alk 9.1 dKH (raised it up) Thoughts? I think it may be a light issue but I dont know what...too much, too little??
  15. Icywater


    I GOT A FREE CLAM I'M SO HAPPY Okay guess what. I got a FREE clam YAY. I met this lady in big als and we talked about clams then I checked some corals out then she pulled me over and bought me one!!!!! In Canada clams are more expensive then US.
  16. akaeding

    Maxima not attaching

    Hi every one. Fist time clam owner here. I have been the proud owner of a maxima clam now for about a month. He is about 3in long. All has been well with him except he doesn't seem to want to attach to anything. When I got him he was attached to some rubble and I placed him mid level in the tank with it still attached. After about a week he had rotated and let go of the rubble and I figured he didn't like the flow in that area so I moved him to a different location. He was there for about two weeks and looked great and was responsive to light change and does not game pm and is not gaping. But he still has not attached. Is this normal? does a maxima have to attach to survive I have talk to some people and heard mixed things from if he doesn't attach on an hr he doesn't like that area to he may never attach. What should I do?
  17. O-man21

    Lighting Opinion

    I bought two clams over the weekend, and I'm curious if the places I chose will work for them. I'd like to get them placed before they decide to lay their byssal threads down. Both are Maximas, about 2" in size, and I have a 120w 20k Maxspect Razor hung 7" above the water, and the lowest clam is about 6" under the water, the other about 4". I have the light schedule as follows: Noon: 0% Whites 1% Blues By 3 PM it's gradually worked up to: 10% Whites 20% Blues At 4 PM it's up to: 40% Whites 53% Blues From 4-9:30 it stays at the levels above. 10 PM: 10% Whites 20% Blues 11 PM: 0% Whites 1% Blues The room gets natural light during the day, but nothing direct. I have the lights set so late because I work during the day and like to see the tank when I'm home. Should I raise the brightness for them? I saw the lower gold Maxima expelling a little zooxanthellae I think during the day yesterday, so I think I might even be a little too bright. Unfortunately, I don't have a PAR meter to test. Ignore the colors, I took the pic with my cell phone to get you a feeling for the locations.
  18. wowser

    My clam is soooooo FAT

    My clam has gotten so fat. Her mantle is so large it's spreading out and flapping around in the current. She looks healthy but wondering if her shell isn't keeping up with the growth from a lack of calcium or something. Also there are two kenya tree leathers attached to either side. Is this a problem?
  19. eodmike

    New Maxima Clam. Its weird

    So this is my new clam. Anyone able to identify it? The store called it a sea turtle skin Maxima. I get where they would get this name but googling the term comes up with nothing and I can't seem to locate anything quite like it. Also what should this cost? I'm worried I may of over spent. I tried using the image thing but it just froze the computer like 10 times over. So now its just attached.
  20. vlangel

    My clam may have been stung!

    Last night I moved some corals around and I didn't know it but my clam was within reach of the hammer's tentacles! Now the very end of its mantle is a little bit paler, even a clearish purple. I moved it up out of the hammer's reach. The clam, a crocea is open fully and seems responsive if something moves near it so I'm hoping its ok. Has anyone else dealt with this?
  21. Purchased a beautiful clam at the CT Frag farmers market and starting to feel a little guilty. I've always loved them but told myself no since I figured it would be impossible in my Fluval edge...This was from Pacific East Aquaculture, they had a gorgeous disply there and I couldnt resist. Here's what I have, any clam experts out there think I have any chance at all of keeping him successfully? Tank: 1yr old 6G fluval edge (more like 7g with a custom sump on back.) lighting: 6cree RB & 3cree NW 2" above waterline. (plus a couple UV's and an OCW) schedule: max power is 30% for blue and white for 5hrs (9hrs total with 2hr ramp up/down) temp: 77 Alk: 8-9 Cal: 400 - 440 Salinity: 1.024 BTW, I asked a ton of questions but forgot the most obvious, what kind is it? Can anyone help identify?
  22. Well the title sums it up... I'm not buying one but was wondering what everyone thought they are big some were maybe bigger then six inches my lfs always gets larger ones and a few smaller ones.......oh and Picasso clowns on sale for 30$ They al seemed really good a shame I don't have a tank.
  23. FlowerMama

    Is metronidazole safe?

    I have to treat my neon but it's hard to get out, if I can't catch him, is metronidazole safe for the claim?
  24. tetraodon

    what ive learned

    From what ive learned clams need intense lighting but I also will need disolved nutrients for it to balance out, since I dont have fish and feed my coral spairingly ill need to add suppliments to my water, so in addition to the seachem reef energy, im going to dose phytoplankton either in the tank or put the clam in a bowl with some phyto. As for my light, its not powerful enough so I got ahold of a 3watt solar flare 6,5k to help give some more light until my reefbreeder value fixture gets here. The clam will be 2-3 inches below the surface while the current lights will be 2-3 inches above, eventually everything will be going into a 20l. As for water my ammonia and nitrite are zero, temp is 78, S.G is 1.023, nitrates around 5, calc is 380-400, I dont have a test kit for mag or alk so im not sure. The clam is a aquacultured maxima from tue coco islands and has been in the dealers tank for 2 plus months. Am I missing anything?
  25. SerenityReef

    Aurora the Sapphire Clam

    So I this little girl has a following all of her own apparently... She arrives Friday pictures to come
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