Jump to content

Naekuh

Members
  • Content Count

    7
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Naekuh

  • Rank
    New Community Member
  1. I think i can relate to you somewhat. I went though about 4 light fixtures before i just gave up and went premium brand and wish i did that from the start. I originally bought a chinese black box off amazon. The light was great, had very strong par values, but it lacked dusk/dawn. Then i saw another chinese box, this time its not a black box, had dusk to dawn, used cree's as well on the whites. The numbers seemed good, you can think of it as a upgraded hipargero, its called macegrow, and well, i had a lot of issues with that as well. Dont get me wrong the macegrow was a pretty excellent light IMO, only i like to hang my fixture about 6-8 inches over the water, that way when i work inside the tank, i can have my lights on, and see exactly what im doing and what needs fixing. The lights at that height were not sufficient. The whites being cree overpowered the blue's on the fixture, and i lost the glowy look in the corals... they seemed a bit bland with the whites being too over powered, the lights also had that rainbow effect, which i really hate.... Basically unless i intended on laying the light right over the tank, and it was a shallow tank, the lights IMO were no go. Then i just coughed it and decided i will get premium. I ended up getting lucky and grabing a cobalt c-ray 200 for 350 dollars (new @ BRS), the Kessil AP700 knock off as the community would like to call it, but still a premium brand light, and i wish i made that choice a lot sooner. So my advice... go with a premium brand like Aqua Illumination Hydra, or Ecotech Radeon's, or even a Kessil. Ocean Revives i hear are also good, but dont cheap, unless you know how to DIY on lights if your going to do a reef. They are going to be the most important things for your corals next to water parameters, so it makes no sense to go cheap on that.
  2. Thanks for all the feedback. I guess what i should do is add more live rock from my sump up to the DT, and create more structures. I was saving that entire left side for corals, and was intending on adding more rock as i had gotten them. Right now im acclimating to my new lights, as its way overkill for the tank i have, but couldnt pass on the deal i got for them. I will pick up a yellow goby and see how that goes, my wrasse seems pretty chilled. He hasn't picked on anything, is more interested in picking stuff off my live rock. The female clown is more punkish to the male, however i think she pissed off the male one day and he bit her lip, which was swollen for like 2-3 days, and returned to normal. The female clown completely ignores the wrasse, even during feeding, you can see them share the feeding ring i have up at the water line. I will see if i can get a yellow clown, and if things goes well, i will then finalize my livestock with a bicolor before they get all get big and decide not to share anymore.
  3. So far i am liking the yellow clown goby. I do not have any large coral for it to pearch on tho. Will that be a problem? At best it could only pearch on that rock next to my acro. I came out of cycle about a month ago... and all my corals are tiny as i wanted to take things slowly and grow stuff out. I hear you appreciate your corals more when you do so. Here is how my tank looks right now.. you can see what i mean about it looks sort of dead in the middle.. And here is my Entire System... So conservatively... what would be my max bioload? I am more used to freshwater but i have learned the 1inch per gallon rule does not apply to reef's, especially nano's..
  4. thanks for the advice.. I heard clown goby's like to nip at SPS tho? I wanted to have a couple of small SPS's in my tank in the future... I will do some research on the Blenny... i am assuming these 2 fish wont overcap my bioload on my tank?
  5. Hi i have a 24gallon + 7 gallon sump. I also have a protein skimmer rated at 40g. Running roughly 25lbs of live rock in the main + 20lbs of live sand + 15lbs live rock in the sump. I have Cheato in the sump as well. Currently i have: 2 x Black Clowns mated pair i think.. 1x Sixline Wrasse 1x Fire Shrimp. 1x Skunk Cleaner Shrimp. My CUC is: 20 dwarf Cerith snails. 1 Asteria Snail 1 Turbo Snail 7 Nerites (which i am really tempted to pull out, because they seem to want to commit suicide and jump out of the tank) 5 Hermits I would like something that will chill out in the middle. The clowns tend to stay in the corner where there is lots of flow, and wont leave there unless they see food. The wrasse is fairly active, but its the only one that is active. Can i throw in a Cardinal? or a Dart Fish? I have read many posts where people tell others not to overstock, so i am sort of scared of overstocking. I have 3 corals currently, a Toadstool (1 head small frag) + Tiny Zoa Colony (like 5-6 polyps) + Red Dragon Acropora. I am diligent on weekly water changes. I do about 4 gallons with RO/DI water. I just want something that will hang out in the center with the Wrasse and not make my tank look so dead.
  6. I am running an Aqua Top 24g. http://www.truaqua.com/aquatop-reef-cube-stand-combo.html <--- that guy.. The protien skimmer it comes with is too big, and wont be practical for the sump it comes with, so i had to replace it with a Marine Color RDC150. The lights are also worthless if you want to grow SPS or anything with high light reqs. so that will need replacing. Overall, i have had a couple of tanks, and i can say the glass is comparable to ADA Tanks the guys in freshwater use. It is High Clarity Glass, i guess the reefing community calls it starfire glass? It doesnt have the black edges like red sea's do, and the glass is i feel a lot more clearer, again comparable to ADA. You get everything you basically need, tank + stand + piping + sump + return pump + heater + light + protein skimmer. (remember the last 2 needs to be replaced)
×